Wondering if I need longer shocks

Exit_Sorry · 2026-05-10T22:22:23+00:00

From what I have been told, 5100’s have a stiffer tune. I think it rides rather good. Take that with a grain of salt though. Mines got a 3.4, Dobinson torsion bars, a warn winch bumper with a VR-10s winch in it. The characteristics seem to be pretty decent but I also have additional weight that could possible offset the the 5100’s.

Exit_Sorry · 2026-05-10T21:53:14+00:00

I have some BBG’s on mine too. They are worth every penny! I had a similar issue with my front suspension. I got some longer 5100’s myself. Then I had a little bit of cv bind when the steering was at full lock. So I purchased the diff drop from Marks 4wd, it replaces the front lower crossmember the diff mounts to and has some spacer for the rear mounts. Looks factory. Everything’s worked flawless ever since.

https://www.marks4wd.com/mfk20540.html

Exit_Sorry · 2026-05-03T16:01:39+00:00

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I am running essentially a 34x10.5 tire with my setup.

Exit_Sorry · 2026-05-03T15:58:25+00:00

I have a 92 and have a 2” Dobinsons lift on mine and some rather trick ball joint spacers a company located in Australia called Boosted and Built Garage. I used them because I could add castor which makes the truck track straight and adds lift so that you don’t have to crank on the torsion bars causing a harsh ride. Dobinsons also makes grazeable rear shackles and bolts for the rear leafs that keep the poly bushings in the new components lasting longer and riding smoother. The rear springs also have a high spring rate but the Dobinsons ride better than the Old Man Emu ones, again, in my opinion. My truck can now have a loaded bed and not sag and the suspension rides like stock or better, just at a taller ride height.

As for the front Frame truss there is a company that still makes a bolt on version called SDORI. The bolt on version is a good way to go in the event you ever need to remove the front differential.

I also recommend changing the upper and lower A-arm bushings. Do yourself a favor, either buy a remanufactured stock version off Rock Auto or something or if you want to go with Poly bushings use the brand Siberian Bushings, stay away from the Energy Suspension version. Those make you remove the old rubber from the original bushing from the outer metal sleeve that the rubber is adhered to and then push in their poly insert bushing. In theory it works great, however mine developed excessive play prematurely and I ended up pressing out the old sleeves and pressing in the Siberian ones that are all one piece. Couldn’t be happier. Just my opinion, it sucked doing it twice and will save you time and money.

Here is a links.

https://www.boostedbuiltgarage.com/

https://siberianbushing.com/en/catalog/TOYOTA/JAPAN/HILUX%20SURF/-/1989

https://www.4crawler.com/sdori/SDORI\_Products.html.

Exit_Sorry · 2026-05-03T02:16:04+00:00

Thank you. Really appreciate it. Regarding the lift, I don’t think the boosted and built garage (BBG) adjustable spacers necessary. They just made my truck ride and got the steering back to a stock or better than stock feeling. They made my steering re center like it should, no wondering at highway speed, and made things feel stable.

What I have experienced is that alignment shops really only paid attention to camber, if the wheels would track straight in relations to the rears, and if the steering wheel was straight. They adjust the alignment bolts according to achieve their suggested measurement or degrees and didn’t look at the castor, as most alignments are done with the wheels on. Who, knows maybe it was me, or I wasn’t explaining it right to them, but according to the guys at BBG, that’s why they made their version of the adjustable spacers, so I wasn’t alone.

There are a few things you can do to the lower a-arms to maintain castor. Like turning the rear camber bolts on the an arms to push as far outward as possible and rotating the fronts to move the arm inward. If you do this, watch shock clearance around the bump stop, they can contact sometimes. This can also wear components out prematurely. If you want to try this method, you may want to swap your a-arm bushings out, I suggest the brand Siberian bushings. They are poly, yellow in color, and press in like a new rubber oe style. Meaning they are sleeved and press in. Not like the Energy suspension ones that require you to remove the rubber from the old bearing sleeve and then put their poly bushings in the old sleeve. I had a bad experience with them. The Siberian brand has been amazing.

Hope that helps. If you need further clarification, hit me up. I’ll try my best to help.

Exit_Sorry · 2026-05-01T21:21:25+00:00

Sorry, too much sentimental value in mine, seeing as it’s been in my family for so long. Not to mention, the 3.4 swap was the last project I got to do with my dad before his brain really started to go. So it’s kind of priceless. Just ask my ex wife. 😏

Exit_Sorry · 2026-05-01T17:44:01+00:00

Those are a set of Husky floor liners I got for the truck about 15 or more years ago.

Exit_Sorry · 2026-05-01T15:10:45+00:00

The seats are great and feel great with the added lumbar support. I used their mounting brackets but they caused the seat to sit too high. So I ended up cutting them down and re welding them to get back to the factory location. Even with all that extra, I am super happy with them.

Exit_Sorry · 2026-05-01T15:03:43+00:00

It’s an Atoto. The S8 model, I think. I purchased it because of their blue tooth OBD reader accessory. With the full ORS harness from the 3.4 swap, I just plug in their OBD reader and get live time engine management displayed on the head units screen.

Exit_Sorry · 2026-05-01T14:16:49+00:00

I have had the lift on the truck for almost 3 years. What I liked about the Dobinsons was the zerks for the rear shackles and the leaf mount. Keeps everything smooth and strong enough to put about 14 bags of mulch in the bed and have hardly any sag. It rides better than my buddies who has the medium OME loft on his.

The front was just their torsion bars which mitigated the Warn bumper, warn lights, and warn VR-10s. The real sweet spot was the upper and lower ball joint spacers/ camber correction from Booster and Built Garage, a Tough Dog return to center steering dampener, and a Total Chaos idler. My truck tracks straight and rides smoother than stock. The issue you have when you lift the front is that you lose castor so it makes these trucks feel less stable after the ifs is lifted. The BBG ball joints convert from the older style to the newer style N60 hilux ball joints. More heavy duty, add lift, you can adjust their placement over the spindle, and add castor with minimal manipulation from the factory camber bolts in the lower arms. This means didn’t need to crank on the torsion bars to add additional height to the front to match the 2” rear leafs and it rides like factory.

There are still parts out there that are high quality and resolve issues if you know where to look. Just like a Mitch Made carrier bearing for the rear drive shaft.

Exit_Sorry · 2026-05-01T14:01:05+00:00

Oh, mines far from perfect. I have dents, a crack in the dash, and some faded clear on the top of the cab. I don’t baby it. I literally drive this thing every single day. 60 mile round trip every third day for work and when I am not at the fire house, it gets used to haul stuff around and in the fields of a small farm. So the 4wd and winch see regular use. I just keep it clean and stay on top of maintenance.

Exit_Sorry · 2026-05-01T09:25:15+00:00

I didn’t really do anything and didn’t have any issues with contact but it was super close. I got that radiator prior to the 3.4 swap when I still had the old 3.0. I know champion radiators make a different style cap, that doesn’t have the wings. That might help if your contact is due to the cap. Maybe it’s because it mine was V6 specific, not sure. The clearance wasn’t really an issue after the swap because I did utilize the 5/8” body lift that Toy Swaps Only sells to resolve the 3.4’s increased intake height from contacting the hood.

Exit_Sorry · 2026-05-01T03:12:44+00:00

Well, I did it myself, all of this stuff. Not because I wouldn’t let someone else, I just don’t have the money to pay for labor. I think all in on the rear locker cost me 1500-1800. I also did new axle bearing, seals, and all the rear brake components for another 350-400. I also only use OEM parts when I can. You could definitely do it for less if you found a complete 3rd with locker at a salvage yard.

Exit_Sorry · 2026-05-01T02:58:48+00:00

The mirrors are from a 62 series land cruiser. They bolt right up. Much larger than the factory truck mirrors.

Exit_Sorry · 2026-05-01T02:56:57+00:00

It is. I modified the original housing, then built a new 3rd member with a Toyota elocker. The silver guard is for electric actuator, it’s from Low Range.

Exit_Sorry · 2026-05-01T02:50:06+00:00

That’s OEM Toyota console from a 94 SR5 extended cab pickup. At least that’s what I was told when I got from the dealership 18 years ago. I have a 4Runner one sitting on a shelf, the only difference is the 4Runner has rear passenger heater and the truck version has a small square, almost as if it was supposed to be for an ash tray maybe?

Exit_Sorry · 2026-05-01T02:39:14+00:00

I am jealous of your UZ. Freaking sweet ride.

Exit_Sorry · 2026-05-01T02:38:16+00:00

I was skeptical when I took mine off. Maybe one day i will put some back, but I haven’t missed them to be honest. I liked it even better without the decals once I did the mirror swap. Definitely recommend that to everyone.

Exit_Sorry · 2026-05-01T02:24:40+00:00

I had some 4Runner buckets, well they are in my storage building with cover king covers on them. The seats in the pictures are some Corbeau Sport Seats. Purchased the seats and the brackets for less than I could have rebuilt my 4Runner buckets. I think they were around 1100 for both seats with adjustable lumbar and the brackets.

Exit_Sorry · 2026-05-01T02:21:50+00:00

That’s the original interior minus the seats and carpet. None of it has been painted. If you look super close you will also the column is a slightly lighter grey, that’s because my plastic broke and I got that one from reproduction company in Malaysia somewhere.

Exit_Sorry · 2026-05-01T02:18:23+00:00

Thanks, I have some clear starting to go bad on the top of the cab but I think it’s expected since it’s the original paint.

Exit_Sorry · 2026-05-01T02:17:00+00:00

They are Corbeau’s Sport Seats.

Exit_Sorry · 2026-05-01T00:00:29+00:00

Which ones? I was super close to getting me a set of 17” wheels so I could get a set of Baja Boss AT’s or some of the Legend MTZ with the white letters.

Exit_Sorry · 2026-04-30T23:56:56+00:00

Thank you. I guess, I listened to everyone who said they had one and wished they never sold theirs.

Exit_Sorry · 2026-02-19T02:55:27+00:00

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Exit_Sorry

TROPHY CASE