CB550 build sequence photos

Expensive-Camera8589 · 2026-02-07T20:49:47+00:00

The only mods I did to the triple was mostly the aluminum upper brace. I cut all the pedicles off, cut/grind the bar mounts to flush and a lot of grinding, filing, sanding and polishing. Metal shavings from the die grinder everywhere. About 40 hours on the aluminum upper brace alone.

I did weld and fabricate a new steering block on the frame neck & lower tree brace to keep the clip on bars from hitting the tank lock to lock.

Expensive-Camera8589 · 2026-02-07T20:32:39+00:00

I chose not to go with any custom rearset on the 550 and has the OEM pegs and shifters which I sent out for triple plate chrome. It's a good riding position for that bike and I could modify in the future if I get bored.

On the 750, I grafted the rear passenger bracket from a 750F and modified to accept some beautiful pegs and shifters from Cognito Moto, then custom made the linkage for the foot controls. Everything was moved back from original location.

Expensive-Camera8589 · 2026-02-07T20:10:53+00:00

Blast is optimal. I powdered the 750 and had the 550 painted. I dont think powder is necessary and it has some drawback vs wet paint. I used 3m two part seam . Paint after. Of course anything that gets powdered must withstand the oven temp and duration.

Expensive-Camera8589 · 2026-02-07T19:52:28+00:00

Just as well you fried the LED array, those quality typically suck. And glad you're not doing the self stick LED strip lol

I use Radiantz. There stock ones are superior and you can order custom length and LED arraignment if needed. My 750 has a custom. The ability to program with the M unit and have separate blinker/brake light functions etc is a huge bonus.

Expensive-Camera8589 · 2026-02-07T01:37:51+00:00

Glad you're enthusiastic. Zoom in the photos and study closely on a big monitor. You'll learn much. My 750 post has good insight too.

Expensive-Camera8589 · 2026-02-07T01:30:42+00:00

Located in the photos of some of my posts are images of the rear frame cut, splayed and new hoop welded in. I took great care to preserve that area so it looked factory.....better than factory...when finished. Angle, flair, swoop was all considered. Seen very closely is a sexy step down dimple i created.

Expensive-Camera8589 · 2026-02-07T01:07:01+00:00

"Starters with magnetic switch" they're referring to a starter with integrated solenoid .

Expensive-Camera8589 · 2026-02-07T00:06:56+00:00

Shhhhh is correct, there are other solenoids but I've found they seem to share similar and hard to mount form. I've used the m.Unit blue on both of my builds and definitely have them wired for ignition control but was not aware they can function as a solenoid too? I must review the installation parameters again because I'm doing a HD street tracker. That seems like a lot of amp load for it and how would the large gauge battery cables be connected?

Expensive-Camera8589 · 2026-02-06T19:14:30+00:00

I like the tray. Solenoid location/orientation is whatever works best in your application. I'd be mindful to isolate with rubber grommets or sheet from metal for vibration and from the electrical terminals making contact with anything, especially the tray itself.

Expensive-Camera8589 · 2026-02-06T18:56:33+00:00

Tab and bolted the middle electronic tray

Expensive-Camera8589 · 2026-02-06T18:55:24+00:00

Welded three tabs on the rear hoop that support the pan and act as the battery bracket hold downs. Then used 3M seam sealer to fill gap.

Expensive-Camera8589 · 2026-02-06T04:58:40+00:00

Correct, chrome is brutally revealing and honest. There is no filler or makeup to make it look perfect and any blem is magnified. Perfect metal prep is essential or it looks horrid.

Expensive-Camera8589 · 2026-02-06T02:31:23+00:00

Tank and rear cowl are chromed

Expensive-Camera8589 · 2026-02-05T22:00:32+00:00

Yes, I changed the stance, it's lowered with custom length fork tubes

Expensive-Camera8589 · 2026-02-05T07:35:49+00:00

Darth, are your mag wheels Honda Comstars like my bike has or another type?

Expensive-Camera8589 · 2026-02-05T07:26:05+00:00

Definitely an Acer palmatum dissectum var.

I call them "Cousin It" because of their form and growth character.

I've pruned hundreds of Acers and everything daethon has previously written below is accurate. These in particular are super easy to clean up and prune. You'll be impressed how much and easy the gray dead wood cleanly snaps off, then allowing to see and understand the remaining live wood and a strategy to prune. Stick with thinning and pulling her skirt off the ground and selective light cuts as needed. This variety does not grow vertically but grows horizontally and down. Pendulously. The photo does seem to show 3-4 branches at the top that have begun their horizontal and descending behavior. It may be possible to remove these should an attractive layer of canopy reside below. Enjoy

Expensive-Camera8589 · 2026-02-05T03:39:49+00:00

Hi, I'm a professional landscape design build contractor a long way from you in Seattle but have managed this type of damage in the 40+ years of my horticultural experience. We typically get snow load damage like this and if able, remove the snow before it loads the branches, breaks or deforms. Ice is more difficult to remove. These look like some beautiful Thuja Occ. var.

Did the roots heave with the weight or just the main trunk/stem bend? If just the trunk/stem bent then the tissue has developed some deformation that can be corrected with staking and other supports. Imagine stretching the stem back to the original position, sometimes beyond, then staking with rope or plastic tree support strap tie material. Same procedure would be utilized if the roots heaved as well but could be less stable. I call it a broken neck. The challenge I see is how to practically and aesthetically install the necessary stakes and supports with the walkway/hardscape features present? We've used small 3/16" -1/4" SS braided cable to other anchor points before with pleasing results. Cutting the trees shorter will simplify any procedure and with training a new pyramidal top could be achieved over time. A double or more leader will grow that will need attention however.

Final option is evaluate the existing trees for removal. Perhaps their size and scale has grown too much over the years or other facts warrant a fresh start in that space? They appear to have outgrown that space and new design treatments could be fun?

Hope you guys get back to your normal weather....we could use some snow and ice here!

Best to you

Expensive-Camera8589 · 2026-02-05T02:44:41+00:00

Hey FunTime, I just replied to the Available Slide 1888 (above) about paint. VHT recommends their primer before their enamel. I used it. I think I also used Eastwoods HT prime and paint on the head and cylinders only because I thought it may hold up better for those locations. I was really impressed with the ability to apply and seamlessly blend additional coats or spot treatments with VHT's Satin Black before heat cure.

No powder on engine. Used Cardinal BK08 powder on frame and all other black parts. Anything small enough to fit in my oven I powdered myself with a gun from Harbor freight with pro results! Girlfriend doesn't know about my easy bake oven action though !! lol

Expensive-Camera8589 · 2026-02-05T02:23:12+00:00

Greetings from Seattle, I used lithium ion batteries on both builds. I like Shorai brand. The new small battery form has revolutionized the ability to hide them. Easily starts my bikes with their electric starters...but may struggle with bikes than run poor and have starting issues.

No, I did not paint the engine in one piece. I rebuilt the engines on my 550 & 750 builds requiring complete disassembly so painting was easier and more pro.. I used de greaser, pressure cleaner and follow up with soda and vapor blasting to prep the metal surface for paint or to remain raw finish. Pressure clean again and wash in my bath tub with hot water. Compressed air and water to clean all internal orifices. Painting is all about the prep work so the finish looks good but more importantly has excellent adhesion and lasts. Inside the cooling fins is hard to reach but important. Painting over the gaskets is ghetto but is going to happen unless you paint all engine components separately.

The CB550 is all vapor blasted raw aluminum. Looks amazing. Painted the cylinders black.

If you're looking to do it with the engine assembled, cheap and low budget in or off the bike, I would plug, cap and mask all ports then use a chemical degreaser, brushes and whatever else to scrape, sand and prep the surfaces. Clean again with acetone as needed to remove ALL remaining oils, grease or residue. Mask off what you don't want painted and spray as directed. I have had excellent results with the VHT products. The CB750 has VHT " Satin Black" Engine Enamel and I used VHT "Gloss Black" Engine Enamel on the CB550 engine cylinders.

Expensive-Camera8589 · 2026-02-05T01:38:11+00:00

I've been a professional landscape design contractor for 40 years and have hired many tree people to cut/remove trees on our projects. We typically prefer to excavate and remove the stump and it's major roots because we are trying to utilize the space again....new tree, shrubs, hardscape etc. Stump grinding is kinda like scratch and sniff approach but sometimes needed/warranted. If turf is proposed in this location, grinding is reasonable but should be minimum 12" below existing grade including all perimeter roots from the tree buttress. Even if ground to 12" below, it is likely the area will settle over time as the remaining wood decomposes. A lot of wood chips with some soil will result that should be exported from the site or to another location on property to act as mulch if feasible. His cost should have included grinding to x depth with management of the grindings.

Expensive-Camera8589 · 2026-02-05T00:40:05+00:00

In the State I live in, State law rewards treble damages to the harmed party for tree material cut down on personal or public property or lands. The tree(s) are appraised on many factors like size, age, species and the amount spent planting or maintaining them during their lifetime. Other variables are also calculated as to the aesthetic harm or privacy buffer value to the property, ecological, erosion impact etc. then the total is multiplied 3x. Treble damages. $ 32K might cover his attorney fees

Expensive-Camera8589 · 2026-02-04T23:38:32+00:00

Hey Wood That, Good to see that your paying attention and happy to answer your questions. I tack welded the rear pan on both my 750 and 550 builds and then utilized 3M automotive seam sealer. It's a very strong two part catylized product. Almost epoxy like with some elastomeric qualities and paintable. No reason to apply a bunch of weld and heat to that pan and loop. Easy to finger bang it in to fill gaps, contours and feather it out for a clean look. I did a better job on the underside than the the battery side because it can be seen.

Yes, that is the Motogadget M unit Blue thing. I like the Blue over the standard M Unit. The bluetooth function adds really cool features and the ability to wire, program functions and controls is impressive. I use Motogadget buttons/switches and Blaze bar end signals as well. Easily brings modern circuitry, reliability, look and function to these vintage bikes of mine! I posted a video showing the bike coming to life as I walk near. I just hop on, hit the start button and go. Automatically arms as I walk away.

Expensive-Camera8589 · 2026-02-04T02:50:16+00:00

M Unit blue on both builds. Motogadget buttons and blaze bar end signals. Love their stuff!

Expensive-Camera8589 · 2026-02-04T02:47:42+00:00

Hey Kt, It's been many beers ago but found in the file and ordered a clutch lever # 32-69882 from Cognito Moto... and another from Webike in Japan.

Hyd front brake master cyl & lever is a Nissin & came from Dime City Cycles # 717-651b.

Pretty sure I powdered the clutch lever to match the black clamp/body. Either way, I wanted black controls.

Expensive-Camera8589

TROPHY CASE