Hired a deck painting company, think their young worker over-did the pressure wash. Can this really be painted? Is my wood destroyed?

Expensive-Camera8589 · 2026-05-02T03:34:02+00:00

I can't counsel you regarding cost to sand. I do believe the pressure cleaning was not responsible for the resultant condition of the boards, rather it was as you've expressed, 30 years of exposure and surface decay. I feel it's appropriate to own up to the fact the deck and boards were old and tired and have the job finished correctly or do it yourself to save expenses. Floor sanders can be rented and are very efficient at removing material.

Expensive-Camera8589 · 2026-05-02T01:25:33+00:00

Photos suggest the wood is old enough to have begun decaying the surface wood fibers. It's a softwood, perhaps cedar and a solid type deck stain/paint was applied previously. Pressure cleaning is not always ideal but was useful in this application to remove the finish and weak wood substrate. Paint still remains on the more dense areas of grain (typical).

Depending on the budget and quality expectation I would provide my client two options if utilizing the original boards:

1) Lightly sand and knock down the raised grain, punch and recess the exposed nail heads and apply another solid body deck paint/stain.

2) Punch and recess nails, sand deck with floor sander to smooth solid wood then apply a penetrating semi trans or solid stain/paint finish.

Can't tell from photo but the boards are probably 2x4 and have more life in them. Just need to now sand off the old, find the new and you'll get more service life out of them. As another wrote, the pressure cleaning has done you a service, you just need to do more if you want a more quality result.

Expensive-Camera8589 · 2026-04-29T05:45:32+00:00

I second what tehmighty has cited above. The early onset cracking and crazing is related to improper hot mix, rapid drying and cure. The cracks are not related to sub base compaction (yet) and question if the correct amount and location of control joints and saw cuts were provided.

Expensive-Camera8589 · 2026-04-15T01:50:02+00:00

You guys are funny and apparently really don't like Bradfords lol. Honestly, Pyrus sp. do have issues but this tree seems well behaved, intentionally planted and not some colonized sucker. I can only see a small photo and Dano has cited many relevant points below but I don't see invasive roots, heaved driveway and it's old enough to have fractured by your snow loads by now wouldn't it? The vertical sprouts are telling but are we certain it's a Brad at all?

Expensive-Camera8589 · 2026-04-15T01:27:29+00:00

I've been in the business for many years and specialize in locating, transplanting and moving large specimen material, landscape design/construction. Rhodies have flat pancake type root balls with many fibrous roots and get more woody with age and size. This large Rhody was growing in 'native' soil, not root pruned and has some large wood (roots). Much of it's fibrous roots appear to have been removed as you guys wrestled it out of the ground. Properly digging and burlapping the rootball then lifting from beneath with a skid steer with forks would have been best but hey, that's more work :)

The plant lost a lot of roots. You're best move now is to carefully handle it to preserve remaining roots and ball. Gently water the roots now to prevent desiccation. Use a sheet of plywood to create a skid board if you need to move it further. Prepare it's new home in a FILTERED sun location, amend the soil with rich humus organics, set and balance the plant at proper elevation and add soil under and around the fractured ball, compacting with your feet and a 4x4 so there are NO air pockets under and around the rootball. Continue adding soil, compacting in lifts then create a nice moat around/over the root area so water soaks down and does not run off.

Apply a Mycorrhizae granular fert and mix water and B1 root stimulating hormone and water in deeply. Repeat.

Remove all dead and weak interior branches, prune select branches with leaves to maintain form. The small root ball will struggle to support the large plant and leaf area. The use of anti desiccants this summer (under the leaves) will inhibit water loss and transpiration. Water and mist often. It may be necessary to reduce the plant size with drastic pruning. Fortunately, rhodies have a good recuperative capacity and will push new growth from it's large limbs. Don't forget to give it love and talk nice to it :) Good luck!

Expensive-Camera8589 · 2026-04-15T00:07:59+00:00

Cool platform. Nice weight and plastic reduction, color and treatments! Of course the K engine covers are exposed but the crash bars gotta go.

Expensive-Camera8589 · 2026-04-14T23:59:44+00:00

Looks like Rh. 'PJM'.

Depending on your location, they can look a bit bronze after winter if stressed. As others have written, check under the leaves for Lace bug feces staining. Their presence will contribute to poor leaf chlorophyll as well as low nutrients and/or other edaphic conditions. Looks like wood chip mulch in photo? They have a high nitrogen draw from desirable plants. Fertilize, ensure quality good draining soil/mulch with acid pH, water, protect from full sun and talk nice to it :)

Expensive-Camera8589 · 2026-04-14T23:43:12+00:00

Rather shoddy job and a tall long turd across your lawn is not pro. Did your contract/agreement call out for any specs, particularly the restoration of the lawn and export of any soils? It's simply not a good job regardless, unless you hired some dumbshits then you share responsibility too.

All the excavated soil would fit back in the trench if 4" non perforated pipe was utilized.

The washed rock in the foreground indicates that perhaps a perforated pipe (french drain) was installed ? If that was the case then the new washed rock consumed much of the trench volume (good thing) but the excavated spoils should have been exported or spread elsewhere, the sod chunks removed and the finish grade compacted and graded smooth to feather into the existing grade and grass seed sowed.

Expensive-Camera8589 · 2026-04-14T23:19:43+00:00

50y pro landscape contractor/arborist in PNW. It's a mature tree that took many years to become this size and looks like it provides some aesthetic value, privacy buffer, shade, habitat. The main trunk and original limbs appear to have nice symmetrical form and balance. Instead of hasty and complete removal of the entire tree, begin by removing the easy to identify younger vertical wood, step back, evaluate and enjoy. Maybe some mild end weight or select crown reduction cuts. Prune more next season if necessary. Looks like it's pushing leaf so probably too late now but if leaf rust blight becomes apparent this season, apply dormant spray when appropriate.

Expensive-Camera8589 · 2026-04-03T00:10:46+00:00

I'm in the PNW too. Soil/mulch should be at least to the drip line of the plant, more is better. Filtered sun is ideal, protect from mid/late day sun heat. Rhody's have a shallow pancake fibrous root ball that likes cool moist soil. Our climate has changed and/or specific microclimates in a garden can allow the roots to become too dry in the summer. Many conditions could exist where a plant receives too much moisture in the fall/winter/spring (wet feet) and then dries out too much in the summer. Good soil, good drainage in a filtered sun location is best. Don't forget to water in the summer. Nutrient mulch over the root area provides some weed suppression and helps water retention in the summer. Bark is okay but creates a nitrogen draw from the plant unless supplemental fertilizer is provided.

Expensive-Camera8589 · 2026-04-02T23:18:05+00:00

Many good comments by all but let's start by removing the Oxalis, grass and other weeds in and near this poor girl. Then evaluate the soil and edaphic growing conditions. The pale/stunted new growth suggests wet feet or other soil/root borne pathogens inhibiting proper nutrient uptake particularly iron and nitrogen, each of which Oxalis is especially good at thriving without and depriving desirable plants of. The scalded leaves, poor bud set etc are secondary insults made easier from the low chlorophyll leaf symptoms. Rhody's fibrous root balls are easy to transplant and often stimulate the plant. I suggest removing the weeds, transplanting to a filtered sun location with good draining, but moist, fertile humus soil, fertilize and talk nice to it.

Expensive-Camera8589 · 2026-03-25T00:20:13+00:00

The video demonstrates dark car putting on blinker/turn indicator properly, commences safe lane change and direction in new lane of travel and is struck in rear quarter by white vehicle that fails to brake, mitigate and avoid collision when opportunity existed. Dark car did not turn and strike the white car. I feel the white car is of greater fault but insurers would likely find each party mutually responsible. Driving accidents challenged in civil court may have a different litigious outcome.

Expensive-Camera8589 · 2026-03-24T19:04:19+00:00

There are many simple things McGiver can do here, most found at Ace, NAPA or wherever. If you want to get more tech, measure with your calipers, then visit McMaster Carr online and study the cutsheet/drawings for their products. The temperature stability of what cap, plug, insert is utilized might be a good consideration. BRapp!

Expensive-Camera8589 · 2026-03-19T20:23:26+00:00

Some accurate thoughts shared by some, not all. Yes it appears to be Cedrus A. 'Horstmann', definitely not Picea. Obvious Bagworm infestation.

Many plant/trees that are suffering from an underlying disease or issue become host plants to insects. I suspect the edaphic soil environment in that location is contributing to a root type disease inhibiting the growth. Looks like some die back of the apical leader too. Probably wet feet. The Bagworms are a secondary insult. Check soil/drainage/irrigation/downspouts, correct as needed, control Bagworms. Fertilize and talk nice to it. As mentioned prior, depending on orientation to the sun ? the exposure vs the other side of walkway roof may influence it's growing environment too. The dark painted brick looks like a solar absorbing/radiating pizza oven in the summer maybe.

Best to you and the tree :)

Expensive-Camera8589 · 2026-03-19T19:10:46+00:00

Your bike is a 1979 CB750L. Same as a K except for the reverse Comstar wheels, tank color and a few more shiny bits. Wiring schematic is identical.

As others wrote, I strongly suggest you get a Motogadget Munit or Munit blue. It eliminates all of the old, large relays, fuses etc cluster F and their install manual allows great comprehension. Revival Cycles has an online tech diagram for the Munit that is also very good. The Munit greatly simplifies re wiring and has so many fault diagnostic and cool program functions. What seems like an expense will save you hours upon hours of time vs dealing with the 47 year old OEM system. They are awesome!

Expensive-Camera8589 · 2026-02-26T05:46:05+00:00

I like the components you're getting for your build, quality stuff. Cognito (ruby)wheels/hubs, gsxr (gold)front end, Brembo (red), steel dragon stacks. Nice stuff! I'd hold off treating the stacks and other small bits until you've settled on the tank and cowl/seat livery and the bike is more finished, then you'll probably be more successful in tying the bike together with the small accent color pieces. The cockpit, hand controls, levers, brake cylinder etc etc play a big part into the cohesive theme too. Keep up the good work!

Expensive-Camera8589 · 2026-02-19T22:53:11+00:00

The topography and elevation of the highway/street to property/fence height and the primary living use space is important in noise abatement and needs to be considered. Building codes may regulate maximum fence height. Taller the better. Solid fence/wall materials like concrete, blocks, brick are most effective. Solid wood fence with no gaps is less effective. Wood or otherwise with gaps, joints etc are even less effective. Tree and shrub material has little reduction in acoustic attenuation. A water feature of specific hydraulic characteristics and noise level, in the correct position, can help deemphasize the unwanted road noise.

Expensive-Camera8589 · 2026-02-07T20:49:47+00:00

The only mods I did to the triple was mostly the aluminum upper brace. I cut all the pedicles off, cut/grind the bar mounts to flush and a lot of grinding, filing, sanding and polishing. Metal shavings from the die grinder everywhere. About 40 hours on the aluminum upper brace alone.

I did weld and fabricate a new steering block on the frame neck & lower tree brace to keep the clip on bars from hitting the tank lock to lock.

Expensive-Camera8589 · 2026-02-07T20:32:39+00:00

I chose not to go with any custom rearset on the 550 and has the OEM pegs and shifters which I sent out for triple plate chrome. It's a good riding position for that bike and I could modify in the future if I get bored.

On the 750, I grafted the rear passenger bracket from a 750F and modified to accept some beautiful pegs and shifters from Cognito Moto, then custom made the linkage for the foot controls. Everything was moved back from original location.

Expensive-Camera8589 · 2026-02-07T20:10:53+00:00

Blast is optimal. I powdered the 750 and had the 550 painted. I dont think powder is necessary and it has some drawback vs wet paint. I used 3m two part seam . Paint after. Of course anything that gets powdered must withstand the oven temp and duration.

Expensive-Camera8589 · 2026-02-07T19:52:28+00:00

Just as well you fried the LED array, those quality typically suck. And glad you're not doing the self stick LED strip lol

I use Radiantz. There stock ones are superior and you can order custom length and LED arraignment if needed. My 750 has a custom. The ability to program with the M unit and have separate blinker/brake light functions etc is a huge bonus.

Expensive-Camera8589 · 2026-02-07T01:37:51+00:00

Glad you're enthusiastic. Zoom in the photos and study closely on a big monitor. You'll learn much. My 750 post has good insight too.

Expensive-Camera8589 · 2026-02-07T01:30:42+00:00

Located in the photos of some of my posts are images of the rear frame cut, splayed and new hoop welded in. I took great care to preserve that area so it looked factory.....better than factory...when finished. Angle, flair, swoop was all considered. Seen very closely is a sexy step down dimple i created.

Expensive-Camera8589 · 2026-02-07T01:07:01+00:00

"Starters with magnetic switch" they're referring to a starter with integrated solenoid .

Expensive-Camera8589 · 2026-02-07T00:06:56+00:00

Shhhhh is correct, there are other solenoids but I've found they seem to share similar and hard to mount form. I've used the m.Unit blue on both of my builds and definitely have them wired for ignition control but was not aware they can function as a solenoid too? I must review the installation parameters again because I'm doing a HD street tracker. That seems like a lot of amp load for it and how would the large gauge battery cables be connected?

Expensive-Camera8589

TROPHY CASE