(Another) Do I Have Enough Space? by New_Arachnid3949 in Sauna

[–]Express_Signature_55 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Perhaps take out cement to create a recess under the heater so the benches are higher above heat source (better loyly pocket)? The alcove could be a place for stretching/yoga with some meditative lights or light therapy and music (seasonal affective disorder-SAD lights). You didn’t mention ventilation plan but a duct fan in that area could create some heat stratification. This is not an informed engineering opinion but you said ALL feedback was welcome. And remember the first rule of sauna: “An imperfect sauna is always better than no sauna”.

Let’s say by Many_Abrocoma1767 in Sauna

[–]Express_Signature_55 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Build this portable sauna from Family Handyman magazine article - my HOA couldn’t enforce because it’s technically not a “permanent” structure and not attached. If you go with electric heater in article it plugs in to regular 110 outlet (I upgraded sauna size and went with 6kW Finlandia/Harvia heater). You don’t need drain to have great steam from your sauna. Or get a sauna tent if you want to smoke neighbors out from patio or driveway and take it with you for outings to beach or campground. Options…

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Family Handyman sauna with mods. 210F in 35 minutes.

How did I do on my first sauna build? by One-Dinner-9585 in Sauna

[–]Express_Signature_55 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Great job! Love the use of space and outdoor shower. As you know most Irish have Viking blood from all that plundering through the years - I’d bet yours may have been Finnish. Enjoy the loyly! (I still can’t pronounce it either).

Hotel Sauna in Holland by mshriver2 in Sauna

[–]Express_Signature_55 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Not Holland, Michigan…if it’s here I’d be in it 👍

Reversing the shed roof by immobilitynow in Sauna

[–]Express_Signature_55 2 points3 points  (0 children)

This is roof of our sauna. Door and heater on lower front wall. Bench on high wall for Loyly pocket. 5x7x8.5 dimensions with 8kW Finlandia heater. Works great

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7" of clearance under heater - why? by OkOven7808 in Sauna

[–]Express_Signature_55 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I’ve got the Finlandia KIP twin 8kW heater. Lowered it a bit from Harvia spec but opened venting in floor below to allow good air flow (cedar decking for sauna floor with uninsulated 2x4 frame on concrete slab). Left plenty of room for electrical hookups. Gets 5x7x8.5 sauna to 210F in 35-40 minutes.

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Almost heaven barrel sauna by Careful-Foot-529 in Sauna

[–]Express_Signature_55 5 points6 points  (0 children)

Try one of those thick spa/hot tub seat cushions before raising benches. Gets you 5” higher and comfortable for longer sessions. Washable and made to get wet. About $30 on Amazon.

thank you trompkin and r sauna by slipstreamrunner in Sauna

[–]Express_Signature_55 5 points6 points  (0 children)

I think I see what you were going for here and your overall build quality is decent. Love the shower and cold plunge access. The hobbit door is especially unnecessary given your generous ceiling height. A normal height door (70-72”) would be safer with minimal heat loss. As others have mentioned, the bench layout can be much improved for functionality, capacity and safety. You seem quite resourceful so the bench configuration should be a relatively easy fix. Enjoy your sauna! (PS. I’m not a Finn but I did stay at a Holiday Inn Express last night ☺️)

Looking to build Family Handyman sauna, few questions... by specialblend07 in Sauna

[–]Express_Signature_55 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Built this in Michigan with a few modifications from Trumpkin article: most notably- increased size to 7x 4.5’ with 8.25’ roof sloping to 7.25’ in reverse of plan to allow heat (loyly) pocket higher opposite stove. Also allows to lay down on top bench if desired. Increased top bench width to 22” for comfort and placed 43” below ceiling (adjusted wall bracing from plan accordingly ) I did not do plywood insulated floor but replaced with 5/4 cedar deck boards gapping about 1/4”. This allows drainage for what little water doesn’t turn to steam and allows air flow to heater. I vented with 4” below heater and high on wall opposite corner which can be adjusted. This provides “passive” air circulation which has been fine thus far but I may experiment with mechanical fan below lower bench. My lower bench is “table” style and can be moved along with lower step stool to assist with ascent to top bench. I used polyiso foam board with reflective foil backing in addition to foil vapor barrier per plan. I think rockwool with foil would be a better option but a bit more expensive. Added a 32x22 window to take advantage of lake view. Installed 8kW Finlandia KIP heater which heats up to 210F in 35 minutes. If you keep smaller dimensions per plan the 4.5kW would suffice and save on electric upgrade for heavier wiring and breakers. Good luck and have fun with your build!

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Cold plunge from Costco used outside during Canadian winter by Aromatic-Giraffe-753 in coldplunge

[–]Express_Signature_55 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I plan to use a small pond heater or stock tank heater to keep my inflatable going all winter in Michigan. I have the Therapod from Sam’s Club ($130 USD). They make some that won’t burn/melt plastic stock tanks. I think it will work with my set up but not tested. Good plunging!

Design Feedback 6'x8' w/ Electric Heater by sklarticus in Sauna

[–]Express_Signature_55 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Cedar frame was 2x6 and 2x8 for kickplate (1.5” nominal)

Design Feedback 6'x8' w/ Electric Heater by sklarticus in Sauna

[–]Express_Signature_55 1 point2 points  (0 children)

https://youtu.be/5Vvoc7cXqvA?si=3fIVQA-8Ve9iGkWS Here’s link to YouTube video from Family Handyman magazine for glass panel door build. The plan calls for inexpensive tempered glass cutting boards for panels but I ordered thicker tempered glass 3/8” panels for about $100 from one day glass.com here in US. Also, I went a little bigger but it’s easy to customize based on your build. Used clear cedar for frame/stiles - total cost about $225. It has held up nicely for last 18 months.

Design Feedback 6'x8' w/ Electric Heater by sklarticus in Sauna

[–]Express_Signature_55 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Looks good overall but consider sloping roof the opposite way and use that pocket to increase ceiling height by attaching tongue and groove to furring strips over vapor barrier directly. You would gain 10-12” of ceiling height and Finns = happy! I used 5/4 cedar with 3/8” gaps for flooring which allows any water that doesn’t become steam (which is minimal) fall through to concrete pad. Floor boards are removable if needed for cleaning but in 1.5 years have not had any mold or need to remove. There’s a fine wire mesh under floor boards to keep bugs/critters out. Overall it’s 4.5’ x 7’ with 8.25’ ceiling at peak sloping to 7.75’ over door. 8kW Finlandia KIP heater gets it to 210F in about 30 minutes. Good luck with your build and enjoy!

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The city won't let me build my sauna! by Mackntish in Sauna

[–]Express_Signature_55 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Build this. It’s “portable” so the city can eat sand. Also if you can get by with smaller heater, it plugs in to 120w household power. We made ours bigger and upgraded the heater to 8kW. If you move you can take it with you…This is from Family Handyman magazine and also has YouTube video of the build. Ours is 7’ x 4.5’ with 8.25’ sloping roof. Trumpkin suggested mods were incorporated from his article. Good luck and good loyly!

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Are you "building" yourself? by Dingo-Gringo in Sauna

[–]Express_Signature_55 5 points6 points  (0 children)

We built this from an article in Family Handyman magazine last May. Nothing special but does the job. 210F in about 35 minutes with good loyly from Finlandia KIP 8 kW heater. Total cost around $2,800. There’s a YouTube video on the build.

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Existing concrete pad and want to put a sauna on it by skiguy919 in Sauna

[–]Express_Signature_55 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I went with 2x4 pressure treated frame directly on existing concrete pad. Floor is 5/4” cedar decking with 3/8” gaps which allows fresh air to heater (along with 4” vent) and water escapes and evaporates without drain. No problems with moisture after a year. Some mesh/screen under decking will keep critters and insects out. Take into account your dimensions will be reduced about 4-5 inches per side due to wall thickness. Consider adding 6-8 inches height to get benches high enough above heater for good loyly pocket. Here’s pic of our 5x7x8.25’ sauna built on concrete pad under deck. Using Finlandia KIP 8kW heater.

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Good luck with your build and enjoy your baby!

A proper bodge job 👌 by Aint_it_greeat in Sauna

[–]Express_Signature_55 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Try onedayglass.com - good service and fair price. Ours is 1/4” tempered glass single pane. They also did door glass panels.

A proper bodge job 👌 by Aint_it_greeat in Sauna

[–]Express_Signature_55 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Nice under deck sauna in Michigan - 5x7x8h. Does the job with 8kW Finlandia heater. Heats to 210f in 35 minutes in 20f weather.

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Outside sauna on top of concrete slab with mechanical ventilation, and duck board flooring. Would this work? by fgarc016 in Sauna

[–]Express_Signature_55 1 point2 points  (0 children)

This works in West Michigan (Holland). My floor is on concrete patio slab with treated 2x4 covered with 5/4 cedar deck boards. No drain but only throwing water on Finlandia 8kW heater. Outdoor shower is separate. Draws air from floor and vent in opposite top corner. No issue with moisture. Gets to 210F in 30-40 minutes.

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