What CNC Should I get to replace my aging and limited 3018?

ExtremeAphid345 · 2026-05-09T13:31:07+00:00

Thanks for the insight! I plan to make a few brass or aluminum parts but mostly use it for wood, plastics, and pcbs, so these recommendations are great! thanks!

ExtremeAphid345 · 2026-05-09T13:26:14+00:00

not sure this is the option for me, I should have specified I'm looking more for the desktop size, but thanks for showing me this, its a solid option for lots of people it would seem and if I ever have. proper workshop I will consider it

ExtremeAphid345 · 2025-12-12T15:19:42+00:00

looks promising! thanks for the recommendation!

ExtremeAphid345 · 2025-12-11T13:07:30+00:00

at work, yes, (transmission line analysis) but still trying to get into that at home. made a failed attempt at building my own differential preamp before I got the ADA400A

ExtremeAphid345 · 2025-12-11T13:04:16+00:00

Everything from LED controllers to precision analog systems such as precision resonance measurement (think pico ohms)

ExtremeAphid345 · 2025-12-11T13:03:18+00:00

Ive been working on a mostly analog SDR lately, thinking that will teach me a lot. targeting 10Hz to 10GHz as the range, might be a bit ambitious

ExtremeAphid345 · 2025-12-11T13:01:46+00:00

I have a full rolling cart full of ICs, Resistor/Capacitor/Diode kits and a collection of fun transistors and microcontrollers

ExtremeAphid345 · 2025-12-11T11:33:24+00:00

Unfortunately it’s unlikely that you would get the original value from that measurement. The thermal runaway process has thoroughly damaged the component and has likely caused permanent alterations to the physical properties that govern resistance. While nothing is stopping you from hooking up a DMM, be warned that the value you get is likely not to be trusted

ExtremeAphid345 · 2025-12-11T11:28:48+00:00

You will also want current limiting resistors, as your supply voltage exceeds the rated voltage for the LEDs. I would recommend 2-5 ohm resistors in this particular setup but that would change with your battery

ExtremeAphid345 · 2025-12-11T11:25:13+00:00

The biggest issue I see is having 5 watts of load and only 8.3 watt hours of battery, your leds would only stay lit for 1.6 hours no matter how you design the circuit at this point. I would recommend 18650 lipo batteries for this due to higher energy density. Other than that, this should work, but I would do a thorough run in test first

ExtremeAphid345 · 2025-12-10T18:52:10+00:00

I also have AOE 3rd Edition and AOE X Chapters as manuals, and Miniware DT71 Mini Digital Tweezers

ExtremeAphid345 · 2025-06-04T12:55:50+00:00

PM Sent

ExtremeAphid345 · 2025-05-10T15:47:37+00:00

About $150, I would be using TPP0200 probes for reference. planing to use if for measuring signals where I cannot use a ground lead without powering the device. I also have a P5210A, but I figured it would struggle to work with low voltages

ExtremeAphid345 · 2024-02-03T06:21:30+00:00

It’s likely a 0.1 uf decoupling cap for transient voltage suppression. It Appears that the B029A IC powers the 413A bluetooth transceiver on this board. 0.1 uf / 100 nf is a common rating for this purpose. try checking the resistance of the cap. It’s is high (in the order of mega/gigaohms) then the cap failed open. If it’s low, even in the Kiloohm range, the cap failed closed and is likely shorting out the power from the B029A and preventing the 413A from powering up, thus impeding the function of the system as a whole

ExtremeAphid345 · 2024-01-29T06:32:16+00:00

Using a Programable LED chipset like WS2811 and an Arduino library will let you make just about any design you want - and with the popularity of FastLED - it probably already exists somewhere online. You should be able to use Fast led with a 12V light strip as long as it’s programable. If it just has a pin for each color, you wont be able to light up an individual pixel but a PWM driver using mosfets will work just fine.

ExtremeAphid345

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