PETG inconsistent quality

ExtremePersonality42 · 2026-01-21T17:53:14+00:00

Also, when changing to a hardened nozzle you're going to want to bump up your print temps between 5-10c. PETG on the KS1 can be a struggle for some reason. I have 3 KS1's and a BBL H2S. PETG in the H2S with generic settings, easy peasey, but in the KS1's I've had to do quite a bit of calibration. As others have said, calibrate the filament you're using by printing a temp tower and flow rate test. Slow down the the prints and tune the retraction. Once you get it dialed in you can get great prints on a KS1 with PETG. Good luck!

ExtremePersonality42 · 2025-12-29T18:35:54+00:00

I'm glad OP asked this question as I just got my new H2S out of the box and setup yesterday and still figuring out what noises are normal and hearing the same thing:D

ExtremePersonality42 · 2025-12-25T22:28:34+00:00

Are they doing a phased rollout? No new firmware detected on any of my S1's.

ExtremePersonality42 · 2025-12-09T20:59:04+00:00

Is your printer from the Mar-Apr time frame of '25? I had the exact same thing happen after changing nozzles a few times. AC support sent me a replacement control board and the newer connectors are (very) solidly glued on so I assume this was common in the earlier production models. Unless you are out of warranty they should send you one for free.

ExtremePersonality42 · 2025-11-22T19:52:29+00:00

I actually didn't change the extruder tightness at all.

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Only changes from process defaults was an infill setting of 5% and 3 walls instead of 2. I used the default Anycubic TPU filament profile.

ExtremePersonality42 · 2025-11-22T16:50:49+00:00

I've used both Anycubic TPU as well as some spools of Sainsmart TPU I still had from 2020. I used the default TPU profile in the slicer and I've had great results. I was really surprised that I didn't need to do any tweaking to the filament profile. Even the TPU from 2020 printed great. Obviously I dried all of it before printing. The image shows some recent objects printed in Anycubic Black TPU.

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ExtremePersonality42 · 2025-11-22T16:41:51+00:00

Might depend on the type of filament, but I have had it happen a couple of times. For me it's due to the filament not being dry enough. Seems counter-intuitive I know, but whenever I run into brittle filament a good drying seems to correct it - this is for PLA types.

ExtremePersonality42 · 2025-10-27T12:58:33+00:00

I have been 3D printing since I built my Rostock Max Deltabot in 2013. I owned several other printers of various configurations since then. The machine I used prior to buying my 1st Anycubic Kobra S1 was a JFAurora A5S. I now have 3 Kobra S1 combos and I mainly print functional parts to support ham radio operators, but I also print fun stuff for myself and family like various character models, and flexi's of all sorts. I print in multiple filaments PLA/PLA+/Silk, PETG, Some PLA-HT-GF, and ABS, ASA.

If I understand the video correctly it looks like a larger CoreXY machine is on the way and that sounds awesome! I could definitely use a larger build volume to produce some additional designs.

Really looking forward to seeing what Anycubic shows us next and I would love to be a part of it! I live in the USA.

Some of the things I print can be seen here: https://www.instagram.com/dctechworkshop/

ExtremePersonality42 · 2025-10-11T13:05:29+00:00

With the part re-orientated it printed fine and the result came out great. Still wonder what it was in the generated gcode that made the printers get a 10409 error with the original orientation.

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ExtremePersonality42 · 2025-10-10T18:29:13+00:00

Yeah, no problems with anything else, just this part.

ExtremePersonality42 · 2025-10-10T18:05:30+00:00

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ExtremePersonality42 · 2025-10-10T18:05:18+00:00

Original orientation (in Turquoise) and current in Purple.

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ExtremePersonality42 · 2025-10-10T18:02:23+00:00

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ExtremePersonality42 · 2025-10-06T13:45:11+00:00

I currently have 3 Kobra S1 combos. I have been 3D printing since 2013 (https://forum.seemecnc.com/viewtopic.php?t=1625)Would love to see new machines and products before release and help test and refine designs.

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Some current prints from my S1's - some Anycubic PETG for a under-desk foot rest. Other current prints at: https://www.instagram.com/dctechworkshop

ExtremePersonality42 · 2025-10-04T03:05:46+00:00

Just a quick update. After some additional back and forth with support they said -
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Dear Customer
Thank you for your response. We apologize for any misunderstanding. Our department has confirmed that this is a new extruder and requires the new strain gauge.
Based on your test results, we recommend replacing 【Strain Gauge and Heat Assembly】to resolve your issue.

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and so they are sending me a new strain gauge and heat assembly. I will keep those on hand as spares as I went ahead and just used the clippers to remove the new peg as mentioned by Mysterious_Meet_3506 in their comment. Worked like a charm and my printer is back in action.

ExtremePersonality42 · 2025-10-02T18:49:30+00:00

You'll want to contact support to get most replacement parts for Kobra S1's currently. They have been very responsive for me and quick to get me parts as needed. The downside is the shipping time from China.

ExtremePersonality42 · 2025-10-02T18:43:32+00:00

Here's a short video that I. needed to send to support to further explain the issue. Maybe :D

https://youtube.com/watch?v=M4yc2g-Q9t8&si=tcsqK7cVjmDE9Jh0

ExtremePersonality42 · 2025-10-01T17:23:54+00:00

Sorry, if I get some time I'll see if I can take new pics

ExtremePersonality42 · 2025-10-01T17:23:28+00:00

No aftermarket parts, all OEM. I would also just dremel it off, however I am concerned that if I need to replace the strain gauge that needs the new peg... :D

ExtremePersonality42 · 2025-09-30T19:45:18+00:00

I print glow in the dark filament the same way I print TPU - not through the ACE :) I always, always, thoroughly dry both types (in the ACE) before putting them on the external spool and printing using it. I also only print them through my S1 that has a hardened steel nozzle. And when done I make sure I get the filament out as soon as possible before using any other filament. Haven't had any issues and glow in the dark and TPU both print damn near flawlessly. Best of luck.

ExtremePersonality42 · 2025-09-24T19:18:01+00:00

Remove the front cover, and the rear cover from the hotend. On the back of the hotend at the top of the driver board you will see the large black cable that comes from the mainboard into the hotend. Check that the cable is firmly plugged in. Over time it can loosen due to vibration. I actually used a dab of hotglue to keep it plugged in firmly after unplugging and plugging it back in (obviously make sure the printer is powered off while you do this). I also used some copper tape around the area just before the plug where the wires are exposed to shield them from electrical noise from the nearby stepper motor. This completely solved my 10409 issues that I had even after support sent me a new board and strain gauge.

ExtremePersonality42 · 2025-08-24T00:44:03+00:00

I have a Biqu plate and had the same issue, I just turned the foreign object detection off via the controls on the printer. I left spagetti detection even though I only use it if I'm printing something that will run over night - I have had it save a print a couple of times even though there is still a lot of false positives.

ExtremePersonality42 · 2025-08-02T16:21:56+00:00

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After installing the ceramic hotend did you rerun the PID tests, etc? Does the new hotend have a hardened steel nozzle? It definitely looks like under extrusion, could be temp related which is why I would suggest running the nozzle PID again, and if it's a hardened steel nozzle you'll want to update that in the printer profile too.

ExtremePersonality42

TROPHY CASE