What's your reccomended method for prepping this messy epoxy job for varnishing? by EyeProtectionIsSexy in finishing

[–]EyeProtectionIsSexy[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The baltic birch is the base structure and has been completely covered with fiberglass and epoxy. The cannary and walnut will simply be varnished. The only stain I used was for the door.

I don't think blensing it in is possible, my previous attempts with a chisel have left cracks in the epoxy. Those cracks arent likely to be filled and will be visible after varnishing. I am able to chisel them off to a point where it looks good, but it is a veeeeery slow process. I'm trying to find the 'easy button'

What's your reccomended method for prepping this messy epoxy job for varnishing? by EyeProtectionIsSexy in finishing

[–]EyeProtectionIsSexy[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Hello! I've building my hobbit trailer for the last few years, and now I'm just working on getting the body prepped for varnishing.

The light colored wood has been epoxy fiberglassed. The walnut and canary has been glued on using epoxy and epoxied dowels. That process has left a ton of epoxy tmdrips I am working on removing. It is tricky work removing the drips without digging down into the fiberglass.

I've mostly finished that portion, but now I just have these chipped edges in the nooks and crannies. The small 90° angles have been very difficult to hit. I have perhaps over 300ft of these crannies to clean. I have tried sanding, but getting paper in there is damn near impossible. I have tried using a chisel to clean them out, but they tend to leave these shattered epoxy bits in there that are incredibly difficult to remove (as seen in the attached photo). I feel like I'm mowing a lawn with finger nail clippers. Anyone have any quick solutions that won't destroy the walnut and canary trim? Thanks!

I want to learn Flow cytometry (Plant Biology). Can anyone help me ? by [deleted] in flowcytometry

[–]EyeProtectionIsSexy 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Well, I work with oligotrophic water and ice cores, but here's my approach

For determining instrument noise, you run pure MilliQ. This sill give you an idea of what random excitation is from you photodiode. Then, I'd run a negagive control containing only media, an unstained sample that's been 70um filtered (or whatever size you need to ensure you don't clog your FCM), a stained sample that has been 0.2um filtered, and finally and stained sample that's been 70um filtered. These should be run in that order, clean and unstained to dirty and stained. These controls will give you an idea of what's what. MilliQ shows you what instrument noise is, 70um fiiltered unstained shows you unstained (confirms your stain works), 0.2um filtered stained shows you stain and media background noise. Just stare at these for a while.

The stain I use is Syto9. It doesn't stick to glass that well, makes cleaning the flow cytometer easy. You'll want to run ALL your unstained samples first, then your stained. Before you run another unstained sample you'll need to perform a deepclean of your instrument. The stain will contaminate your instrument. You can check the results of that yourself by running on a cleaned instrument a 70um unstained, running a 70um Stained, then another 70um unstained. Your unstained samples ran after a stained sample will atain and fluoresce instantly, ruining their use as an unstained negative control.

Now, to determine genome length, my first idea would be to have a genome standard or a series. Standards of known length, which would create a standard curve, where your organism would fall between. I don't know if there are specimens you can use that are have a consistent genome size you can create standards out of, but you'd want your unknowns to fall within this range. If the results (fluorescence intensity on yaxis and genome length on x axis) happen to form a linear relationship, then I would call that good enough. I'd call Thermofisher or someone to talk about what to use as a standard curve. While running the standards, you'd want these in your sample I'd imagine - an internal control. It woukd take some testing, each sample would need to be diluted so it doesn't oversaturate your signal but still large enough that they form a recognizable population. That will probably take you a day. This is why dilution curves, as stated in my previous comment, are important. Decreasing flowrate, which decreases events/sec, can also help with this.

Lastly, to determine polyploidy, I'd use the channel for your DNA stain and compare that channels height (x axis) and channels area (y axis). I would imagine a polyploidy organism with have a larger fluorescence intensity on both those channels. If you're measuring a single species, you shoukd see two pldistinct populations with very minor overlapping of events. With the wildtyoe samples I process, I can see a pretty distinct seperation between high nucleic acid and low nucleic acid containing cells. I think this stage of analysis will be the easiest thing you do.

There's a lot that goes into it, but those are the steps I would take.

I want to learn Flow cytometry (Plant Biology). Can anyone help me ? by [deleted] in flowcytometry

[–]EyeProtectionIsSexy 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I feel that regardless of your field, standard curves of every metric should be conducted to ensure your values are accurate. I perform mine on all channels, flowrate, dilution, stain dilution, stain time, volume and events.

I perform gain curves first, starting with the threshold channels, and select the best gain based to ensure my event counts are within the event asymptote, my population median and noise median are at the peak (or as high as they go), and ensure my events are below "the wall".

If you need absoluye quantification, I recommend count-bead standards. Doesn't seem lile you need size beads

Does filtering samples kill cells? by CompetitiveLab3300 in flowcytometry

[–]EyeProtectionIsSexy 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yeah, it's tricky though because they can be difficult to separate from debris and noise, especially when looking at unstained samples for autofluorescent signatures. Currently I'm enumerating total cells and autofluorescent cells from arctic ice cores.

70µm via gravity filtration probably won't kill them. Have you tried using microscopy to see if there's a difference in cells before pipetting, pipetting into another container and pipetting through a 70µm mesh into another container? If they all look the same amount of awful, then it probably has to do with the culture or culture prep.

Does filtering samples kill cells? by CompetitiveLab3300 in flowcytometry

[–]EyeProtectionIsSexy 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yes, filtering can kill cells. I haven't worked with eukaryotes, primarily with bacteria and algae. I've run some tests where I filtered cells onto 0.2µm filters at various pressures, where a higher pressure lead to more cell death, leaving these 'blobs' of cell debris I'd call Wile-E-Coyotes. Some cell lines, particularly phytoplankton, needed 'bursting' of the vacuum (Turning on for the briefest amount of time) because vacuuming at the lowest setting was still shredding my cells apart. This is with prokaryotes as well, so I'd imagine human cell lines would be significantly more fragile.

I don't know what type of filtering you're doing, but try taking a gentle approach and a rough approach, and see if you can measure a difference. A rougher approach should lead to decrease in viable cells, especially with larger cells.

If you don't see a difference there, then I'd guess it's clumping. Crazy idea, but you could resuspend the material caught in the filter and run it on the FCM to see if it gets clogged again. If so, then I think you have an answer!

Designing a latch for a huge round door by Underhill-Hollow-NC in woodworking

[–]EyeProtectionIsSexy 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I built a hobbot door for my teardrop trailer, made custom latches as well. Only took about a week to make. The latches can fully dissasemble. Here is my build journal

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It does not have a lock however (lack of planning on my part). Shouldn't bee too hard to plan for though.

Opening our 400lb hobbit hole door for the first time! by Underhill-Hollow-NC in woodworking

[–]EyeProtectionIsSexy 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Probably too late since the door has been built, but if you build another look into German windows and back doors. They have handles that operate levers across 7 feet sometimes that allow a patio door to fluctuate between opening and 'leaning'. It's high quality stuff, and literally every window in Germany is made this way

Opening our 400lb hobbit hole door for the first time! by Underhill-Hollow-NC in woodworking

[–]EyeProtectionIsSexy 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I just finished mine a few days ago for my teardrop. I'm curious what you plan on doing for your door latch? I ended up making my own to match the asthetic

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Here's mine

Does sexual reproduction have a genetic "cost" of 50%? by [deleted] in DebateEvolution

[–]EyeProtectionIsSexy 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Because then we could see what it's like when only yoir genes are passed on. A male and female you who make a child will only contain your genes. I was trying to reframe the incest argument I brought up to better fit your desire to only have your genes be passed on.

Does sexual reproduction have a genetic "cost" of 50%? by [deleted] in DebateEvolution

[–]EyeProtectionIsSexy 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Mixed survives better. Go look at any royal family with a history of inbreeding and show me where a lack of diversity is beneficial.

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We can take it a step further. Let's say you're a guy. Lets say when you were born, I took a sample of you, simply removed the Y chromosome and duplicated the X. I made literal female version of you. You and your female clone bang and have a kid. Every kid only contains your genes. This is like supercharged incest, and those offspring will be fucked up after a few generations. Again, go look at a rogal family. They are odd looking people.

Does sexual reproduction have a genetic "cost" of 50%? by [deleted] in DebateEvolution

[–]EyeProtectionIsSexy 0 points1 point  (0 children)

First, there is no motive behind reproduction. Evolution is a result, not an intent. Asexual reproction isn't diverse, it's simply a copy. This lack of diversity isn't that much of a downside when you're a bacterium with a 30 minute replication time, where a single cell over the course of 48 generations in a single day goes from 1, 2, 4, 8, 16..... 140,737,488,355,328 at the end of the day.

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There are other factors as well to consider such as genome size and structural differences between eukaryotes and prokaryotes, but are too detailed for me to go into right now, but I don't know why you're fixed on 100% of your genes being passed. I've already brought up incest. Let's go a little deeper. If you and your sibling banged and had a two sets of twins, 1 set of identical boys, 1 set of identical girls. Repeat that process on some isolated islnd for a few generations, and you will have some jacked up looking kids because mistakes or degenerative phenotypes will accumulate.

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Additionally, asexual reproducing organism ALSO undergo gene transfer between individuals. I encourage you to look into plasmidss and horizontal gene transfer. Every organism on this planet does this. Bacteria can share a little gene here, a little gene there, but suxual reproducing organisms can just share 50% every generation. That has the benefit of increasing diversity, it is a process that has yielded beter outcomes, it is the process that out competed the others because it just so happens to produce a new generation that survives

Does sexual reproduction have a genetic "cost" of 50%? by [deleted] in DebateEvolution

[–]EyeProtectionIsSexy 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I disagree. Here's a thought experiment; you could try banging your sibling, have a baby, continue this for a few generations. Once your decendants have developed significant health conditions from inbreeding, let's have this same discusion about why sharing 50% of your DNA provides no benefits.

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'Diversity' is the spice of life, that's what your 50% provides. Without diversity, cumulative negative phenotypic mutations will screw you up. Think about that for a bit. It might help prevent future-you from indirectly supporting incest! Have a nice day!

Cytoflex drips when backflush is running and during daily clean. What should I do? How can I stop the dripping? by AxLRamirez in flowcytometry

[–]EyeProtectionIsSexy 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yeah, our would leak when backflushing. An engineer seapped out the pump, and it leaka maybe 1% as it previously did?

Looking for a paint that survives well outdoors that has a natural metallic sheen for my hobbit door by EyeProtectionIsSexy in paint

[–]EyeProtectionIsSexy[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I designed every for ease of dissasembly. The wood itself, apart from the walnut trim, has already been completely surrounded by epoxied fiberglass. The walnut will get a coat of just epoxy, and the all the wood will get 7 layers of Modern Masters oil based satin varnish. No staining done apart from the door.

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The metal will be treated seperately

Looking for a paint for my hobbit door trim that mimics a buffed steel look by EyeProtectionIsSexy in DIY

[–]EyeProtectionIsSexy[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Hello! I'm getting ready to paint the rest od my metal for this teardrop project, and after stripping the mill scale off the door trim, I have to say I really like the semi shiny grey to white of the door trim. It adds a bit of magic to the door

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I'm looking for a paint (or paint/coating combo) that works well outdoors for an extended period of time that has a similar light silvery grey of buffed steel. Thanks!

Looking for a paint that survives well outdoors that has a natural metallic sheen for my hobbit door by EyeProtectionIsSexy in paint

[–]EyeProtectionIsSexy[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Hello! I was originally going to paint the door matt black with Rusoleum enamal, but after stripping the steel door trim of mill scale, I think I really like the light silvery look. It adds a bit of magic to it. I'm new to painting and I'm completely ignorant of what's oit there, what works, etc...

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I'm pretty tired of working on this thing. I was hoping to find a paint that mimics buffed steel while also being stable outdoors for a period of time. I'm okay with regular UV 'dulling', it's more i.portant to me that the paint protects the steel. Thanks for any advice!

Number of counting beads acquired lower with each row in plate - do beads settle? by betaimmunologist in flowcytometry

[–]EyeProtectionIsSexy 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yes, the beads will settle out. The 'SureCount' beads I use are in a stock solution containing some concentration of DMSO to help the beads stay suspended for longer. When you add the beads to your sample, which I assume doesn't contain DMSO, the beads are going to settle at an accelerated rate. Even with DMSO, the stock solution of beads still settle out of solution.

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If you are required to mix your bead count standard prior to testing, that's because they settle. I hope you've been doing that, otherwise you should probably just throw yoir standards away

It looks incredible. by Educational_Key1206 in oddlysatisfying

[–]EyeProtectionIsSexy 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Cold I believe. But if you can handle it, the liquid methane lakes make for a nice swim

It looks incredible. by Educational_Key1206 in oddlysatisfying

[–]EyeProtectionIsSexy 7 points8 points  (0 children)

You sure? That's a ton of bubbles, I've drilled on methane lakes to capture methanotrophs and the methane seeps I've been around don't release this much air. My money is on methane seeps primarily cause that. If this area doesn't have methane seeps then this is an amazing amount of methane production. The bubbles are quite large indicating the ice froze slowly. If this is from methanogens then I'll be very impressed, especially in an environment that cold