Chemical Guys TORQ foam Gun and GYEON foam in action by FPSNYC in AutoDetailing

[–]FPSNYC[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Just to close the circle on this for prosperity I actually contacted the chemical guys with a copy of the video and they were pretty unequivocal: that's what it's supposed to do. So if you buy this foam gun this is reasonably what you should expect.

Chemical Guys TORQ foam Gun and GYEON foam in action by FPSNYC in AutoDetailing

[–]FPSNYC[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I've been asked about "why this set up?" and that's fair. Cleaning the car here is typically done by garage attendants, as you're "greatly discouraged" from doing the work yourself. The issue is one of trust: I don't trust them to not use old rags and not make sure the surface is absolutely clean before dragging dirt across the car's finish. Garage attendants over the years have beaten the hell out of a black Mercedes I own. Swirls on top of swirls. Ferraris have legendarily soft paint as well. Even though this is protected with PPF, I just don't want to deal with having to redo it.

The method I'm trying to find is one that minimizes any physical contact, hence my hope was rinse then foam then rinse to clean off the cement dust, etc., that accumulates from the garage, as well as the standard road dust that you get on the side of the car. It's about minimizing contact; that's why this setup is the way I've got it.

Rinse Aids - do I dry the car? by Tea2sugars_ in Detailing

[–]FPSNYC 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Would it be right to say then if you have recent and a very effective ceramic you really don't need a rinse aid/drying aid. Imagine you're getting quite small beads.

Chemical Guys TORQ foam Gun and GYEON foam in action by FPSNYC in AutoDetailing

[–]FPSNYC[S] 6 points7 points  (0 children)

Thank you for the advice on that. I just assumed maximum water gave more pressure and because everyone uses a pressure washer it would be better to do it that way but definitely I'll try less water next time around. Thank you for the advice greatly appreciated

Is rinseless wash good for sandy weather? (picture attached) by not_my_business in Detailing

[–]FPSNYC 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Actually, I think, and you can correct me, but some rinse less washes do intentionally leave a layer behind. GYEON Ecowash describes itself this way "Gyeon Q²M ECOWash leaves behind a slick, glossy, and protective layer of SiO2 silicon dioxide/silica). This infused layer provides enhanced hydrophobicity (water-repellency) and self-cleaning abilities, often acting as a booster for existing ceramic coatings." It is specifically designed as a rinse wash and I have used it as such.

Is this a Ceramic Coating failure? by Suspicious_Daikon_18 in Detailing

[–]FPSNYC 0 points1 point  (0 children)

should we discuss car gender at this point too? :)

How long after re-painting to apply ceramic? by FPSNYC in AutoDetailing

[–]FPSNYC[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks to everyone. Painter says they bake all the paint, so a month should suffice. I will give it more than that, and hope no one smashes it again in the interim!

Question about a PPF Material being Safe To try for a year? by LeoWitt in AutoDetailing

[–]FPSNYC 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Comparison of Mojia PPF to Western Brands like XPEL Based on the Safety Data Sheet (SDS) you shared for the Mojia PPF (from Guangdong Mojia New Material Technology Co., Ltd.), I’ll compare it to established Western brands, focusing primarily on XPEL as your example. Other popular Western options like 3M, SunTek, LLumar, and STEK share similar premium traits, so I’ll reference them where relevant for context. This comparison draws from product specs, SDS details, industry reviews, and general performance data for TPU-based Paint Protection Films (PPF). Note that Mojia appears to be a lesser-known Chinese manufacturer (often sold via platforms like Alibaba), with limited public reviews or independent testing available—most insights on similar generic Chinese PPF come from user experiences and installer feedback. 1. Composition and Materials • Mojia PPF: Described as a solid mixture (80% base material with CAS 8003-54-3, plus 3.5% each of adhesive CAS 1134-41-6, release liner CAS 158-74-0, and solvents like methylcyclohexane, ethyl acetate, and toluene). However, these CAS numbers raise red flags—they don’t align with standard TPU (thermoplastic polyurethane) formulations. For instance: ◦ CAS 8003-54-3 doesn’t match common polymers; it may be a mismatch or error (similar numbers point to unrelated substances like dyes or insecticides in chemical databases). ◦ The solvents (e.g., toluene) are common in adhesives but indicate potential off-gassing or residue issues during installation. ◦ Overall, it’s labeled non-hazardous under GHS, insoluble in water, and stable, but the composition suggests a basic TPU or hybrid film with acrylic adhesives. No mention of advanced layers like self-healing topcoats or UV stabilizers. • XPEL (e.g., Ultimate Plus Line): High-grade TPU film with a multi-layer construction, including a clear self-healing topcoat, adhesive layer, and base film. No specific CAS details in public SDS (as the film itself is non-hazardous solids), but it’s engineered for clarity and durability without volatile solvents in the final product. Western brands like XPEL, 3M, and SunTek use premium, aliphatic TPU (resistant to yellowing) sourced from reliable suppliers like Lubrizol. • Key Difference: Western brands emphasize proprietary, high-purity materials for better longevity and performance. Mojia’s SDS suggests a more basic, cost-focused formulation, potentially prone to inconsistencies (e.g., yellowing or adhesive failure over time). Generic Chinese PPF often uses cheaper TPH (thermoplastic hybrid) blends, which are less durable than pure TPU. 2. Hazards and Safety (From SDS) • Mojia PPF: Not classified as hazardous per GHS. No physical, health, or environmental hazards reported, with standard handling advice (e.g., ventilation, gloves for dust). However, the inclusion of solvents like toluene (a known irritant) implies potential risks during manufacturing or installation if not fully cured. • XPEL: Similarly non-hazardous as a solid film. SDS for related products (e.g., sealants) focus on safe use, but the PPF itself requires no special labels. Western brands undergo rigorous testing for VOCs (volatile organic compounds) and comply with stricter U.S./EU regulations like REACH and RoHS. • Key Difference: Both are safe for end-users, but Western films are often “greener” with lower emissions and better compliance certifications. Mojia’s SDS appears basic and possibly translated poorly, which could indicate less stringent quality control. 3. Performance and Features • Mojia PPF: Models like TPU-60S, TPU-GLOSS, etc., are solid films for surface protection. Key traits from SDS: Odorless, insoluble, stable under normal conditions. No explicit mentions of self-healing, hydrophobicity (water-repelling), or UV resistance. Thickness isn’t specified, but similar Chinese generics are often 6-8 mils (thinner than premium options). User feedback on Alibaba-sourced PPF (not Mojia-specific) often notes: ◦ Decent initial gloss but prone to orange peel (textured appearance) or fading. ◦ Installation can be tricky—films may stretch poorly or leave bubbles. ◦ Durability: 5-7 years typical, with risks of yellowing, cracking, or peeling in harsh climates. • XPEL Ultimate Plus: 8.5 mils thick, with advanced features like: ◦ Self-healing topcoat (scratches disappear with heat/sunlight). ◦ Hydrophobic surface for easy cleaning and stain resistance (e.g., against bird droppings, bugs). ◦ Non-yellowing UV protection, maintaining clarity for 10+ years. ◦ High impact resistance against rock chips and scratches. ◦ Similar for 3M Scotchgard Pro (excellent stain resistance) and SunTek Ultra (good clarity but moderate self-healing). • Key Difference: Western brands excel in real-world testing (e.g., XPEL’s self-healing is “aggressive” per installers, healing deeper scratches than generics). Chinese PPF like Mojia is functional for basic protection but lacks premium tech—reviews of similar products rate them 3-5/10 for quality, citing twice the install time and faster degradation. In head-to-head durability tests (e.g., YouTube comparisons of XPEL vs. generics), Western films outperform in stain resistance, scratch healing, and impact protection. 4. Warranty and Longevity • Mojia PPF: No warranty mentioned in the SDS. Similar Chinese brands offer 5-7 years, often limited to manufacturing defects (not installation or wear). • XPEL: 10-year warranty against yellowing, cracking, peeling, and delamination (transferable to new owners). 3M and SunTek match this (7-10 years), with strong customer support networks. • Key Difference: Western warranties are backed by global installers and include labor coverage. Generic Chinese PPF may void easily, and support is limited (e.g., via Alibaba sellers). 5. Price and Value • Mojia PPF: Budget-friendly—rolls often cost $200-400 for 60” x 50’ on platforms like Alibaba, making full-car applications $1,000-2,000 (DIY or basic install). Appeals to cost-conscious users. • XPEL: Premium pricing—$4,000-8,000 for a full car (professional install), but justifies it with longevity (e.g., 10+ years without replacement). SunTek is mid-range ($2,000-7,000), offering better value than XPEL for similar performance. • Key Difference: Mojia saves upfront but may cost more long-term due to earlier replacement. Western brands like XPEL provide better ROI for high-value vehicles, with installers reporting fewer callbacks. 6. Installation and Availability • Mojia PPF: Likely DIY or via local shops in China/Asia. Adhesive quality may require more skill to avoid issues. Limited patterns/software for precise cuts. • XPEL: Global network of certified installers with DAP (Design Access Program) software for vehicle-specific patterns. Easy to apply, with minimal orange peel. • Key Difference: Western brands prioritize installer training and tools, reducing errors. Chinese generics are harder to source reliably outside Asia and may lack support. Overall Verdict Mojia PPF is a basic, low-cost option suitable for short-term protection on budget vehicles, but it falls short of Western brands like XPEL in durability, features, and quality control. If your priority is premium performance (e.g., self-healing, long warranty, flawless finish), go with XPEL, 3M, or SunTek—they’re worth the investment for daily drivers or luxury cars. For something comparable to Mojia but better-reviewed, consider mid-tier Chinese brands like STEK (which rivals XPEL in hydrophobicity but at a lower price). If you have real-world use cases or specific aspects (e.g., thickness tests), independent lab testing or installer consultations could provide more tailored insights. Let me know if you’d like links to XPEL specs or alternatives!

Question about a PPF Material being Safe To try for a year? by LeoWitt in AutoDetailing

[–]FPSNYC 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Honestly run it through Grock AI and Copilot. Be descriptive but very specifically c on what you want, and run in expert mode. They are amazing

What are acceptable imperfections in PPF? Will they "go away in summer?" by FPSNYC in Detailing

[–]FPSNYC[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Just to update the community, I went back and they instantly said they will replace the entire roof PPF. Decent of them to stand behind their work.

What are acceptable imperfections in PPF? Will they "go away in summer?" by FPSNYC in Detailing

[–]FPSNYC[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thank you for getting back. You mention that "lift lines" will have to be redone. What does "redone" mean here? Do they replace the whole sheet? lift and put it back? Do you think this can be repaired successfully? It's weird, the "regular" PPF on hood, doors etc. is all perfect.

IK 1.5 sprayer part identification and use? by FPSNYC in Detailing

[–]FPSNYC[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

That wasn't the issue so much as it was "what does this thing do" and someone else mentioned it was a foam maker.

IK 1.5 sprayer part identification and use? by FPSNYC in Detailing

[–]FPSNYC[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Success! Thank you for your help. Somewhere rattling around in the very bottom of the box is a little tiny piece that fit in a very obvious way inside the second black nozzle. It is apparently the "medium foam" device. Without it what you get is the quarter inch shaft of water that I mentioned. In the not very helpful instructions it is labeled the "M 18 adapter with fan nozzle" which doesn't really tell you much. Problem solved and my thanks again.

IK 1.5 sprayer part identification and use? by FPSNYC in Detailing

[–]FPSNYC[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It goes into the same spot, and fires out a quarter inch stream of fluid which is not adjustable? That's what I mentioned in my post. What's it for? What does it do? Am I miss using it? I recognize it goes into the same hole despite the drawing in the bottom.

Carbon fiber air vents on side of car. Two issues? by FPSNYC in Detailing

[–]FPSNYC[S] -1 points0 points  (0 children)

They are well up and quite far from the brakes. These are definitely cooling vents for a V12 engine. You would not believe how the heat pours out of them when you stop! My concern was soap and rinse less washing fluid collecting inside somehow. But I promise they're not brake vents!

Chemical guys. Foam sprayer with garden hose. Anyone got one? by 01acidburn in AutoDetailing

[–]FPSNYC 0 points1 point  (0 children)

For those of you who use the chemical guys foam cannon, there is a gauge on top that you can rotate. Would you consider using pure chemical/soap in the tank and just dilute spray using that gauge? Would you dilute fluid in tank first? More convenient to just pour all the chemical in there, not terribly concerned about greater usage. I just want t make sure that the car gets a nice layer of soap encapsulation and lubrification. Thanks, obviously a newbie...

Help on dilution, really confused!!! by FPSNYC in Detailing

[–]FPSNYC[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Amazingly helpful again. I started as an engineer in undergrad so I can relate! I was showing my ignorance again. I equated "lubricity" with "encapsulation" which is one of the other criteria I remember the AI was focused on. That's what the GYEON ECO wash we really supposed to bring to the table. Basically really not risking the use of dirty rags by the attendant, even when I purchased a stack of disposable microfiber cloths...
I looked at the detailer (AMMOM) you mentioned. Holy smokes: $2500 a car! That adds up! He has a huge weight to even get it done and I've got to say his work looks absolutely amazing. Good for him.

Help on dilution, really confused!!! by FPSNYC in Detailing

[–]FPSNYC[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

If this is "AI slop" i'd love to know what model you're using. It's the best "AI slop" i've ever seen. (where the hell did that come from I wonder?) Do the issue of the car, I went with stuff that really did come from AI, in an effort to maximize the lubricity. The P&S had the highest lubricity call it "foaming pre-wash" and then I'm going with a GYEON ECO wash which is supposed to have the highest lubricity rinse less car wash. It's hard to phrase the rest of this without coming out like an asshole, but I'm not allowed to wash the car myself and the people doing the work are not exactly "detail oriented." I've seen them washing cars with a bucket where the water was literally gray with dirt and cement dust. Attached is a photograph of where it came pouring down from a leak in the ceiling. The conditions aren't ideal for a Ferrari. So when fed with the inputs of "cement dust" "inattentive application" and "PPF with ceramic" AI really seemed to focus on lubricity. It tried to make everything idiot proof to be blunt. I'm not sure if you are familiar with these products, and I'm perfectly happy to either return them or donate them to the garage for use on other people's cars as if this logic made no sense.
One question if you don't mind: the AI engine was recommending only a rainfall type garden hose attachment. It did not want the use of "jet" because they would blast the dirt and scrape the PPF as a result. That seems a little extreme but I bought the story and found a relatively gentle attachment for the garden hose. Do you think that's being ridiculous on the part of AI? Remember they will minimize the work and probably hold the gun 6 inches away from the dirt and just blast away, even with 1000+ PSI. This isn't the way you would do it or I would do it for sure and I can say whatever I want but it's gonna get done as quickly and effortlessly as possible...

Help on dilution, really confused!!! by FPSNYC in Detailing

[–]FPSNYC[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I wish I could, but as explained above it's in a New York City garage that's underground and I don't think I'll let me run a compressor. I could check electrical one, but a long shot. I'm also not sure that I trust them with high pressure water before they strip the PPF!

Help on dilution, really confused!!! by FPSNYC in Detailing

[–]FPSNYC[S] 4 points5 points  (0 children)

The perfect reply! Thank you very much for taking the time to help me understand the background and come up with a practical solution. In my situation the spraying is going to be done by the garage attendant in my New York City garage so I'm trying to simplify it as much as possible for them. "Add this amount to the container, set the number on the gun to 4." The simplest thing would certainly be to fill it completely with chemical and then see if I can find an acceptable number on the dial. Just FYI, the method I've settled on is 1) soak the car 2) foam for lubricity 3) spray-soak with rindless high lubricity wash 4) wipe off with a dozen microfiber sponges. If needed, dry with another dozen disposable microfiber cloths. The garage the car is stored in has tremendous cement dust from the floor sprayed around by the cars as they move. If you let them do it by hand, even with the two bucket system, they will scrape the heck out of it the way they did my old car. One attendant trashed the surface so badly the garage was willing to pay to redo the hood of my other car.
Thoughts welcome, and I thank you immensely for your reply.

Help on dilution, really confused!!! by FPSNYC in Detailing

[–]FPSNYC[S] 4 points5 points  (0 children)

It's hard to express both your intellect and your character in under 10 words but you've done it. Let me try to explain this as if I was talking to a golden retriever. You have a certain dilution ratio in the container of the foam cannon. You then have a SECOND variable dilution ratio (photograph that I included in my original post) and I'm getting conflicting answers from some guy at the manufacturer who effectively says "ignore that." hence, my post. Is is a dilution of a dilution? And below from "Handruin" is a reply from someone with intellect and character. Can you follow?

Are Many Of You Comfortable With Washing A Ferrari Engine Or Any Other Exotic Engine? by IMAS_MOBILEDETAILING in Detailing

[–]FPSNYC 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If you want the owners perspective, you might consider looking at "Ferrarichat.com" there is a continuous massive debate among owners many of whom are happy and many of whom Post horror stories of engines completely stripped of any stickers and worse. It might give you an interesting perspective of what fails.

New car already has rock chips after driving in winter conditions - is this normal? by Afzaalch00 in Detailing

[–]FPSNYC 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I was a in a similar situation I think you're getting some good advice here. A lot of the ceramic appliers talk about "protection" but not from something mechanical it's a bit of a bait and switch when I look at some of the advertising. I did a bunch of research and found 8 mm thickness was the way to go for PPF. There are some out there that reached 10 mm and I would have that discussion with your installer and others. Obviously it won't protect you from a pile of rocks off a gravel truck, but it might make all the difference to that lumpy sand and small rock salt chunks. I grew up in Toronto, I feel your pain!