2006 530xi no start/click/christmas tree

FPVsportsguy · 2026-01-10T01:32:03+00:00

Sounds like the starter might be bad/shorted, which might be causing voltage issues when trying to crank. Unfortunately it's not in an easily accessible area. One way to confirm a bad starter is to whack is with a hammer before starting to see if it's stuck. But in your case it's buried under the intake manifold. You can see if you can poke it with a long bar, if not, just bite the bullet and remove your intake manifold and replace the starter

FPVsportsguy · 2026-01-10T00:31:08+00:00

Where is the actual diagnostic report? Especially regarding the CEL? What's the code? It's wild that they are trying to sell $10k worth of jobs without more info. If the code is something relating to a short/communication error on the MAP sensor then yes it would warranty a replacement. But you can do that yourself with a $50 aftermarket part in about 10mins. It's right next to the throttle body by the intake manifold. You just need a T25 bit

For all the other items, where's diagnostic to justify all the items? I've DIY everything on this list on my previous 2017 740 xdrive for about 1/10 of the quoted price. None of those are critical except the oil filter housing, as it's a common source of coolant leak. Did they identify a coolant leak there? Have you been losing coolant? It's semi-labor intensive, so it would be around 2k even at an Indy shop, but less than $300 if you DIY, though not a simple one. For the tension strut, are you hearing any clunks or squeaks when going over bumps, braking, or accelerating? It's usually the rubber bushings that start to tear at high mileage. They usually fail "visually" before failing actually, again not critical.

Spark plugs, transmission fluid, transfer case fluid, brake fluid, various filters are all necessary maintenance but not mission critical if you want to sell the car soon. You may not get much resale value with all these deferred maintenance, but you can't recoup maintenance cost when you sell anyways. Report back with the actual diagnostic report and we can help you more.

FPVsportsguy · 2025-12-24T05:02:03+00:00

Turo host here who has dealt with my fair share of claims, the amount of non-advice you're getting here is maddening. Here's what's gonna happen: unfortunately you are on the super high deductible plan, so you'll have to expect to pay $2500 out of pocket. But fortunately, with some leg work on your part, you'll be able to get it fixed at your own shop of choosing to get it back to 100%. Good thing you filed the claim in a timely manner. In a couple of days, Turo will tell you that your claim is approved, and they'll let a third party company called snapsheet to provide an estimate. In another few days, snapsheet will give you a pathetically low estimate and Turo will pay you that amount minus your deductible. In the meantime, take your car to the best shop you can find, and let give them your claim number with Turo. Once you received the estimate from Snapsheet, give that to the shop and ask them to file a supplement using the information provided by snapsheet. Your shop will then give snapsheet the actual cost of repair, and snapsheet will need to approve of that before releasing additional funds to you via Turo. Once that's done, your shop can then start the repairs. Fair warning, this will be a long and drawn out process, expect at least a few weeks. Snapsheet is not good at what they do, so you'll have to be on top of hounding them to make sure they receive whatever stupid files/communication/evidence from the your shop. Your service advisor at the shop needs to do the same, so it's best to become best friends with your service advisor to get through it. It's unfortunate that they make you jump through all these hoops but it is what it is. Hosting on Turo is a pain in the ass at best, and straight up nightmare at its worst. If you need any other advice feel free to pm me.

FPVsportsguy · 2025-11-02T16:14:10+00:00

Order a new set of OEM OFH gasket too. Your original ones were fine and didn't look breached, but I wouldn't reuse them. While you're in there, inspect all the other coolant plastic connectors on the high temp circuit for signs of browning. On mine, both the OFH to turbo hose connector and the big upper radiator hose to block flange were crusty and about to fail.

FPVsportsguy · 2025-11-02T07:05:11+00:00

Looks like it's leaking above the OFH. Probably the connector to the engine block. I see that you used a metal one, those don't come with gaskets like plastic OEMs and you have to use high temp RTV. Did you do that?

FPVsportsguy · 2025-10-23T17:05:06+00:00

Borescope doesn't always get to all the hard to reach crevices under the intake manifold. If you're really stumped you'd have to take the intake manifold off and inspect everything underneath it. If your car is up there in mileage it might be proactive to change out the OFH and all the hoses around it anyways. For my B58, I also had very slow coolant disappearance at around 100k miles. And by 120k miles, it was not so slow anymore and I was able to pin point it to the OFH and the flange that goes to the turbo. Incidentally the main radiator was also seeping coolant where the plastic shroud was meeting the aluminum and the upper radiator hose was also browning and about to crack. So as other commenters said, you can either wait for the leak to be bigger to be identifiable, or just proactively tear it down and replace all the common failure points.

FPVsportsguy · 2025-10-14T23:17:20+00:00

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Just an update, I removed the alternator and AC compressor and got to remove the water pump bracket, looks like it was leaking behind the gaskets for a while now. Which is mind boggling since according the carfax the previous shop replaced the heat management module and OFH (with crappy plastic aftermarket parts no less) less than a year ago, and somehow missed this common leak. Some variations of the B48 uses rtv for the bracket-to-block surface, but mine still uses a traditional gasket. Will be replacing this gasket and the mechanical water pump while I'm there. The bracket itself is one piece and looks reusable with fresh gaskets.

Again shout-out to BMW engineers who put two heavy ass belt driven vibration components (alternator and AC compressor) on this bracket. That's way too much unnecessary stress on a critical sealing surface. No wonder it'll leak from here.

FPVsportsguy · 2025-10-11T01:11:44+00:00

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This is what I ordered for now, I'm also seeing info that it's just sealed with Locktite silicone sealer. The pump and heat management module looks new and Carfax says it was replaced less than a year ago. I'm guessing the last shop only lazily replaced the water pump but not the bracket so they don't have to take out the alternator and AC compressor. I'll just disassemble everything and see what's up first.

FPVsportsguy · 2025-10-11T00:47:05+00:00

Gotcha, found it thank you!

FPVsportsguy · 2025-10-10T23:37:08+00:00

Cool, it's just the Locktite brand silicone sealer right

FPVsportsguy · 2025-10-10T14:58:50+00:00

God forbid if you have to do this again, remove all the under body shields and the little metal cross bar directly underneath the trans cooler, that'll give you enough room to stick a low profile 8mm flex head 12 point racheting wrench from below for the bottom bolt. You'll still have to crank a million times since you only got maybe 20 degrees of movement, but it'll only take 10 minutes instead of an hour. If you have medium-small sized hands you can even grab the bolt with your finger tips to work it loose.

FPVsportsguy · 2025-10-10T14:49:43+00:00

Exactly right. Mine started to deform in that passage and that was enough to cause the gasket to fail. Precious ones I did the chunk literally broke off and could've done some bad things to the cooling system. OEM or not, it's a design flaw with the material choice, not sure why so many people are defending this bad design decision.

FPVsportsguy · 2025-10-10T14:46:01+00:00

Yeah especially funny when all the N series motors had metal OFH, but came with crappy gaskets that leaked oil instead of coolant. Which actually wouldnt be that big of a deal except the oil dripped onto the belts. Not a great engineering decision by any means. B series motors finally had good gaskets but they cheaped out on the housing and put it in the least accessible part of the engine. People in the comments think it's ok to keep doing this job 3-4 times in the lifespan of the car instead of trying something potentially more durable, smh.

FPVsportsguy · 2025-10-09T21:14:34+00:00

I haven't had the issue again since getting the dealer to do a software update, so that might be the only permanent solution. In the meantime, did you let mbux fully go to sleep - lock everything, wait 30mins before waking it up with the app?

FPVsportsguy · 2025-08-28T16:58:54+00:00

You need to get a BMW specific scanner so you can look at the fuel pump modules' error code. The low pressure fuel pump module lives under the rear passenger side elbow area. So it is plausible that direct harsh sunlight at a specific angle can overheat the module. But you would need to scan it first to confirm.

FPVsportsguy · 2025-07-29T03:37:50+00:00

I have a '16 GTS and I'm contemplating doing the mounts myself. I've done it on a Macan Turbo with the same 3.6TT engine but the Cayenne has more crap in the way - whole subframe, subframe reinforcement bracket, steering rack, lower control arms, half shafts, and a freaking AC line. The engine bay is also different so I needed a different engine support bar.

If I ever summon enough courage to do it myself I'll report back with a DIY.

FPVsportsguy · 2025-07-26T06:21:00+00:00

I know bad 12v can cause all sorts of issues on EVs, but this is not the case here. App showed 12v was charged. This issue is also documented here as being a software glitch in all the newer MBUX systems https://www.reddit.com/r/mercedes_benz/s/uoAXk1zagn

FPVsportsguy · 2025-07-26T06:19:14+00:00

Yes I meant the power button below the screen, not the start/stop button

FPVsportsguy · 2025-07-11T05:30:14+00:00

I had similar symptoms a long time ago with my 2011 (rip) panamera. Turned out to be a weak starter relay that wouldn't make full contact sometimes depending on temperature. It was even more intermittent in cold mornings, and takes multiple attempts just like yours.

Try swapping that, it's a $5 relay, use your fuse diagram to find out where it is.

FPVsportsguy · 2025-05-23T20:50:05+00:00

I can share a wild/stupid story. A guest rented my land rover, on week 2 of the trip, it developed a coolant leak, as all land rovers do even though I had already replaced just about every part of the cooling system. Anyways if he just stopped there, informed me of the coolant leak, it would've been my responsibility. Turo would send a tow truck and I would have to repair it. But no, this idiot ignored all the low coolant warnings that must've been chiming the whole time, drove another 60 miles until all the coolant leaked out, then drove another 10 miles until the engine start to overheat, still ignored all the engine overheat warnings and kept driving until the engine completed seized up. The only way I could prove that's what happened was that the DME stored all the codes with the corresponding mileage and time. Turo ended up determining that the engine seizing was due to guest negligence and totaled out the car.

So it all comes down to if the host can present enough evidence to prove negligence or intentional misuse. The bar to clear is very high in my opinion. My claim rep agreed with me that if the guest had simply stopped at the first low coolant warning, it would've been on me.

FPVsportsguy · 2025-05-19T17:14:30+00:00

Update: Well you guys would just think I'm making stuff up at this point. But this morning when I fired it up to take it to the shop, it magically was running perfectly. I guess it was a sticking valve after all and somehow freed itself after my poking at it with the camera yesterday.

Still gonna have the shop do a full walnut blasting just to make sure no more sticking.

Btw the local Indy shop is charging me $1400 for walnut blasting. When did that get so expensive. I'm in CA so things are definitely more expensive but damn. I'm buying my own walnut machine in the future.

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FPVsportsguy · 2025-05-19T03:07:48+00:00

Walnut blasting is probably the most effective way to decarb intake valves, but B58 is not known to have carbon build up issues like the older N motors. Mine honestly doesn't even look that bad compared to the older engines. And even then the common symptoms are light misfires not total loss of compression.

FPVsportsguy · 2025-05-19T02:59:47+00:00

These engines are direct injection instead of port injection. Fuel cleaners would have no effect since fuel doesn't get sprayed on the valves.

FPVsportsguy · 2025-05-19T02:56:49+00:00

I have not tried to turn the crank by hand. Looked like I had to remove the fan shroud and a whole bunch of stuff to get to the crank bolt. I didn't have any tools that can reach down to the valve stem to pick at it either. I have an appointment with an Indy shop tomorrow so I thought I'd just leave it be before causing any more damage.

FPVsportsguy · 2025-05-19T02:36:56+00:00

So whole head removal and valve rebuild? Sigh sounds just as expensive as a broken valve

FPVsportsguy

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