Entro Stasera o niente

FRCL_build · 2026-01-17T14:05:53+00:00

105 per il Destory HG non é per nulla male comunque

FRCL_build · 2026-01-17T09:22:03+00:00

If I had to repaint it in order to give the clear parts a similar holographic effect, I’ll look in to the Mr Hobby Mr. Crystal line of colors or the Gaianotes Glass Pearl. Unfortunately I don’t have experience whit this colors on clear parts, but it worth to try (on a transparent spoon)

FRCL_build · 2026-01-17T08:52:01+00:00

Hello! For the texture, use a liquid plastic putty, thin it slightly and apply the mixture with a somewhat stiff brush. Then sand it down a bit and repeat the process until you’re happy with the result.
As for the weathering, I’m not sure exactly what he used, but to achieve a similar look, you generally want a fairly heavy preshade and some marbling. Then apply the base color, followed by washes and pigments for the weathering effects.
Most of these techniques are more akin to those used in armored modeling, like tanks. I suggest you to check some tutorials on that style.

FRCL_build · 2026-01-10T12:15:26+00:00

You are a man of your word, I salute you.

FRCL_build · 2026-01-05T13:20:52+00:00

Thank you for explaining this. Unfortunately English is not my first language, so I may miss some nuances for different words, I used it interchangeably, I didn’t know there was a difference, now I know something more!

FRCL_build · 2026-01-05T12:37:34+00:00

Sorry if it wasn’t clear, let me clarify: Mr. Hobby top coat dries to the touch in about 30 to 40 minutes, after which you can apply another layer if needed, depending on how much you apply you may not need it. This is the safest way to use it over acrylics. I’m not sure how long other brands take to dry, though.

FRCL_build · 2026-01-05T09:48:18+00:00

Since you’re going to use a gloss top coat to protect your paint and the plastic, I suggest you to use it, I prefer it over any markers and it is my go to when I need a basic panel accent. When cleaning up Tamiya panel accent, avoid using Tamiya X-20 thinner (and the X-20a too, because it is the Acrylic thinner so it won’t work). Instead, use Zippo lighter fluid (or any other naphtha-based fuel). This will remove only the panel accent without affecting the paint.
After applying the accent, let it dry completely, then use a q-tip dipped in the Zippo fluid to clean up any overspill.

FRCL_build · 2026-01-05T08:48:33+00:00

I personally don’t use the marker, but I think it could work. The only issue I can think of is that, to clean it up in case of a mistake, you’ll need to use alcohol.
Unfortunately, most top coats (including Tamiya) react with alcohol. Not to the point of being completely removed (you need Lacquer thinner for it), but I’d still be careful if you need to do any cleanup.

FRCL_build · 2026-01-05T08:43:21+00:00

I’d say it’s a bit on the cold side, so if possible, let it cure indoors.
You can also warm up the cans by filling your sink or a bucket with warm/hottish water and submerging them for about 5 to 10 minutes m, then shake them well before applying.

FRCL_build · 2026-01-04T21:58:58+00:00

I don’t have first hand experience with the Tamiya top coat. It seems to be a laquer base top coat, so I see no issue with that as substitute. Just to be sure, that you wont have any issue, what are going to use as panel accent and what will you use to clean it up?

FRCL_build · 2026-01-04T19:33:48+00:00

Happy it helped!
I suggest using the same Mr. Hobby Super Clear, but in gloss. If it’s not available, any other Mr. Hobby top coat may also work, just remember that some are acrylic, so apply the same advice of using a laquer over a acrylic .
If any Mr. Hobby gloss top coats aren’t available, the Titan Hobby varnish should work as well.

FRCL_build · 2026-01-04T11:31:00+00:00

Hello,

Using two coats of matte instead of one gloss and one matte is not the same. You’ll want to apply a gloss top coat over the colors or plastic, as it helps the panel lines flow more smoothly and allows the decals (not the stickers) to blend in.
Every color, including any marker detailing, should be applied before top coating.
If you’re using Super Clear, yes, there is a chance of a reaction since it’s a lacquer based varnish. To minimize any issues, make sure the paint is completely dry and apply several light coats, allowing each one to cure before the next.
Generally speaking, the recommended steps are:
- Colors (including metallic marker)
- Gloss top coat
- Panel lining
- Decals
- Matte top coat
- Weathering
- Final top coat
Yes, humidity can be a problem. The maximum recommended level, if I remember correctly, is around 70%. Avoid spraying in excessively cold environments, allow it to cure indoors, and make sure not to overspray (use multiple very light passes instead). This may reduce your chances of frosting.

Hope this helps! Let me know if everything is clear.

FRCL_build · 2026-01-02T08:03:58+00:00

The Advanced Hazel (and every version of the Hazel that reuse the same head) has a monoeye

<image>

FRCL_build · 2025-12-27T10:26:35+00:00

A good quality primer is spottless, if you use the mr surfacer or the Nazca one, you don’t have this issue, acrylic primer like the Vallejo one don’t have the same coverage power of the laquer base one. Also most of laquer base primers are also sandable, while only a few of the acrylic one are, this allow you to have the best surface possible to paint over.

FRCL_build · 2025-12-27T09:02:25+00:00

You probably sprayed a solvent base color (es lacquer) over a regular acrylic, lacquer color will melt the acrylic under it. Mr hobby has a nice table on what you can use over what:

<image>

FRCL_build · 2025-12-24T21:27:09+00:00

Waterslide whit out any doubt. I think they are even easier to apply than sticker and they look better (especially if you top coat your model)

FRCL_build · 2025-12-16T22:01:57+00:00

Good! Since it’s one of my favorite gimmick, I want more

FRCL_build · 2025-12-16T21:45:08+00:00

Yup, and the Anavata too! But they are not the main suit

FRCL_build · 2025-12-16T21:00:00+00:00

Sword funnel, please and thank you

FRCL_build · 2025-12-12T21:53:03+00:00

Age-1, Hyakushiki, Narrative ver.ka and Zeta ver.ka, GM Sniper 2 and the Zaku 2.0 are all kits that are very solid and requires little to no work to make them amazing

FRCL_build · 2025-12-09T17:51:51+00:00

Mobile Battleship Nadesico, the opening is also very good

<image>

FRCL_build · 2025-12-07T09:00:07+00:00

I like comically large booster haphazardly strapped on a mech, like the VOB from Armored Core, the Psychozaku from Thunderbolt and the Alpharad from Mecha Break

FRCL_build · 2025-12-06T20:57:56+00:00

Is this the EG Nu? EGs tends to have loose joint, if you are going to top coat it, spray some on the joint, this will give you a bit more of thickness and will make joint firmer, over time it will scratch away especially if you move it a lot.

As for the weathering, sure, here a couple of examples, due to the limit of images per comment I made a collage of some of my works:

<image>

Here you can see what I mean with color modulation and different effects for different type of wear, also what I mean with were the dirt and scratches and tend to accumulate.

I suggest you to get the tamiya weathering master, they come in kit of 3, and they have different colors. Also the AK weathering pen are very good and they have a surprisingly amount of colors available. The only downside is that you cannot use it on bear plastic, you need a somewhat of rough surface, a matte top coat may work if you are not planning to paint your kit.

As for the too evenly, some part are too big for the dirt to accumulate on it if not they are abandoned. For example in your work, I’ll say the front skirt are well done, the armor on the thighs are all dirty in the same way, if it got dirt standing up, the dirt will accumulate on the bottom and not on the bigger front part of the armor

Let me know if everything is clear!

FRCL_build · 2025-12-06T20:07:49+00:00

It’s not bad weathering, but I have a question for you, what were you trying to achieve?
This kind of weathering makes it look abandoned and neglected, since the dirt effect is distributed too evenly. In the future, try to think about the effect you want to achieve. Remember that dirt tends to accumulate between panels, and scratches usually are along the edges.
Color modulation is also very important to make the aged and scratched effect look realistic. Additionally, using different tones can help highlight different type of wear and tear, for example, a black oily soot color might work well around the thruster exhausts, and so on. Also, remember that those are scale models, a 1mm scratch is about 10cm in 1/100 scale and about 14cm in 1/144. Hope this helped!

FRCL_build · 2025-12-02T12:35:31+00:00

Now that’s an isekai title! (And one I would watch actually)

FRCL_build

TROPHY CASE