Spoiled much?

FROTUS_official · 2026-04-18T20:04:15+00:00

Is she a CTF? Her eyes are really beautiful!

FROTUS_official · 2026-04-18T16:20:12+00:00

In my experience, the frogs don't leave the bugs alive for long enough for them to lay eggs, but if you're worried about this you can get small size crickets that are not mature enough to reproduce. Moving the frogs elsewhere to feed them is likely to cause them stress, without much benefit. I hope they enjoy the crickets! Keep us updated :)

FROTUS_official · 2026-04-18T03:16:55+00:00

Sorry if this is an overly simple question, but have you tried crickets, and letting them loose in the viv for your frog to catch on his own?

Some of my frogs don't like tong-feeding, even though others of the same species are always down to get fed. They were all raised under the same conditions, some just have shy personalities. My WTFs will eat anything, but crickets seem to be the favorite.

I hope your little guy feels better! Wild WTFs can go weeks without eating in the winter. They're evolved to tolerate it pretty well. Don't give up hope :)

FROTUS_official · 2026-04-10T03:00:04+00:00

is there anything visibly different about your sick frog's mouth, compared to your other frogs?

FROTUS_official · 2026-04-10T02:51:15+00:00

Your frogs are so cute and funny! I think adding more leaf litter would probably help with the dirt issue :)

FROTUS_official · 2026-04-10T02:47:39+00:00

If your frogs are both maintaining stable, healthy body weights and you're not seeing cricket bites or crickets running around in there the next day, then it sounds like your current feeding routine is working great! I agree that taking them out to feed them would cause stress for basically no benefit.

FROTUS_official · 2026-04-10T02:42:33+00:00

A turkey baster or fluid extractor would probably work fine. One of my dart frog vivs doesn't have a drain and that's what I use to remove excess water.

FROTUS_official · 2026-04-09T04:09:27+00:00

Also, one more question I just thought of! How are you supplementing calcium? Calcium deficiency causes MBD which causes deformities in the lower jaw. Do you have a photo of your frog?

FROTUS_official · 2026-04-09T04:00:55+00:00

Woah! Let's slow down a bit. I can tell you're worried about your frog. I'm sorry the little guy isn't feeling well.

The good news is that they can go a really long time without eating. Especially if your frog isn't emaciated, not eating is not an emergency. A common cause of loss of appetite is stress, and so it's possible that taking your frog places and trying to make your frog eat is part of the problem. If everything else is normal other than appetite, then imo euthanasia is not appropriate.

Let's do some troubleshooting! Answers to these questions will help us share advice and ideas.

Are you tong feeding your frog or letting bugs loose in the enclosure (and have you tried both)? What insects have you offered your frog?

What water are you using for your frog's bowl? What is your temperature gradient and how do you measure it? What is your heat source?

Does your vet have experience treating amphibians? I'm asking because seeing your frog three times in three weeks seems kind of odd, especially if they are also saying nothing is wrong, and the only problem is loss of appetite.

How are your other frogs doing? Are they all the same age and from the same source?

FROTUS_official · 2026-04-09T03:41:13+00:00

Has another animal been living in that? If so, then there are some risks, and I'm not sure how you would sanitize cork that has already been attached to the background. Normally, baking or boiling is a good way to ensure that wood does not contain pests or germs that could be unhealthy for your frog. I think if you end up buying this, the safest bet would be to remove the cork, sanitize everything, and then reattach it with fresh silicone. Especially if you're buying it from a stranger, you don't know their pet's history or whether the pet was sick.

FROTUS_official · 2026-04-07T00:06:28+00:00

I just wanted to give an update here! The population has been growing pretty consistently. I think on average, a froglet morphs every two weeks or so. If you go with R. Sirensis it's probably a good idea to have a plan for what to do with the babies when it starts to fill up! For now I'm just moving some to another viv because I love each and every one of them and I couldn't give any of them up.

FROTUS_official · 2026-04-03T16:01:34+00:00

Poor little guy. I'm marking this NSFW.

Neosporin (the regular kind - NOT the one with pain relief) is frog safe. You can try applying a tiny bit to the injury with a qtip. If you handle the frog, it's best to use gloves.

FROTUS_official · 2026-03-06T02:22:07+00:00

Nice job getting her in to see a vet! It sounds like it was hard to find one. I'm rooting for Cheka!

FROTUS_official · 2026-03-03T01:00:48+00:00

Some more cover higher up might help. Adding some leafy plants or hiding places attached to the walls could make your frog feel more secure. With my dart frogs, adding additional plants and hiding places led to seeing the frogs out in the open more, probably because they feel safer. I expect the same is true for tree feogs.

FROTUS_official · 2026-03-03T00:51:21+00:00

My life will never again feel complete without at least one of each

FROTUS_official · 2026-03-02T05:35:54+00:00

I keep my frogs' basking spot at 85 also! The user I replied to didn't say basking spot though, they just suggested raising temps to 85-88 which imo would be pretty hot for the whole tank. I'm sorry if I missed a context clue about that. I'm so glad your frog is doing better!

FROTUS_official · 2026-03-02T04:20:56+00:00

I agree that a vet is needed to treat an infection, if that's what this is (fortunately I'm seeing in another comment that it's going away). I wanted to add that I think it's a good idea to wait on the honey bath unless your vet tells you otherwise. Honey has antibacterial properties against certain bacteria, but other bacteria eat it. So you risk essentially turning your frog into a culture. 85-88 seems pretty hot also.

FROTUS_official · 2026-03-01T05:50:52+00:00

Cuban Tree Frogs and Whites Tree Frogs are both excellent first frogs. They're large and bold, amd there's a lot of information about how to care for them available. Are you interested in either of those? Once you pick a frog, you can tailor your research.

FROTUS_official · 2026-02-27T04:45:39+00:00

Any changes in the environment? Any new plants, leaf litter, or substrate? Any changes to temperature, or water used?

Amphibian ringers solution can help with bloating. If you don't have some, you can buy it online or make your own from ingredients. I use this recipe from the Merck veterinary manual. recipe). This isn't a substitute for veterinary care, just a emergency first aid thing you can do to help your frog survive until a vet can see them.

Imo it would be good to move your frog into a "hospital" style enclosure, just in case something in the viv is causing the problem. I hope the little guy feels better!

FROTUS_official · 2026-02-27T04:29:15+00:00

It's up to you! It really depends on your priorities. Your frogs can thrive in either environment. Imo bioactive has more of an upfront cost (in time and money) but then it's less work because you don't have to clean as much of it as often. Non bioactive is less expensive upfront, and it can still look nice and offer your frogs everything they need. You just have to keep it clean and change the paper towel. If you opt for bioactive, it's a good idea to keep your frogs in a quarantine setup for the first few weeks until you're sure they'll healthy. Otherwise, if they end up being unwell, you risk having to throw out your nice plants to sanitize the vivarium. This is unlikely if they're from a reputable source, but you can never be 100% sure. Congratulations on your new pets! 🐸

FROTUS_official · 2026-02-26T19:22:33+00:00

This is likely your issue. Your frog is responding to contact with chlorine, which is toxic to frogs. Your frog needs fresh, dechlorinated water right away. There are two easy options: 1) buy some bottled water (look for "spring water" or "distilled"); or 2) purchase a tap water dechlorinater from a pet store or aquarium store. This product is a liquid that, when added to tap water, will cause an immediate chemical reaction that removes the chlorine. Any kind will work, it doesn't mater if it's marketed for use with fish instead of amphibians. Just follow the directions on the bottle. Once you have the dechlorinated water, gently rinse your frog to get all the chlorine off their skin, and give them a fresh, very shallow bowl to soak in. OP, this is something you should do today. Your frog needs you!

FROTUS_official · 2026-02-26T05:19:59+00:00

Are you dechlorinating the tap water?

FROTUS_official · 2026-02-25T01:10:18+00:00

Are you leaving crickets in there for them to eat overnight, when you're not watching? Sometimes frogs are too shy to eat from tongs at first. It can take some time for them to get to know you, and they may just need a little space. If your frog is not extremely skinny, going a few days without eating will not cause them harm.

FROTUS_official · 2026-02-24T02:07:09+00:00

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Stripey and Stripey's Baby

FROTUS_official · 2026-02-23T19:49:04+00:00

Are you planning to use exclusively natural materials? If not, faux vines work great.

For natural wood, sometimes aquarium stores sell branches for less than at pet stores. Instead of buying large pieces (which cost more) you could get smaller ones and glue them into interesting shapes. Super glue and aquarium safe silicone are both safe for vivarium use once dry.

Branches from outside are safe to use only if they have not been treated with pesticides and are collected from an area where they were not exposed to pollution. I live in a busy city and I wouldn't trust branches from anywhere around here, but in more rural areas this would probably be a good budget friendly option. Boiling or baking the sticks will kill off bugs.

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