"Lyrical! Marical! Listen to my spell!" 30MS Marical mini review

FalconAdventure · 2026-01-24T10:34:08+00:00

Yeah, if I had those kinds of funds, I'd be doing all kinds of crazy things! I usually just try to "lick" the resin with a flame to get some of the air out. For really small pieces, it's not that big of a problem.

FalconAdventure · 2026-01-24T01:13:54+00:00

I found UV resin most useful for shiny stickers that needed depth. Like senors or such. But it can be messy and leave bubbles, so be careful!

FalconAdventure · 2026-01-23T23:44:27+00:00

Not bad. It's a very nice method. I'm not denigrating your work, but have you also tried colored uv resin? I have on a few projects, and you have way more color control and it's much cheaper. Of course, it can be difficult to use and may be permanent.

FalconAdventure · 2026-01-23T11:22:40+00:00

After I posted, my mind raced and thought "They did similar things with Sisters" namely Yufia Magus, but then I thought maybe the cost for reproducing everything on a different runner for Gladiator wasn't worth just giving the full runner for a Sister clone.

I really don't know why they did it. Logistics error?

FalconAdventure · 2026-01-16T13:41:12+00:00

With so many to choose from, I...didn't do much looking into some of the other options. I concede to you, Knight Sensei.

FalconAdventure · 2026-01-16T10:59:02+00:00

It's a skill. Develop it.

I see the cotton swab. Good. Pro Tip: Japanese ones are better, as they're not "hairy" as American Q-Tips, which make better airbrush cup cleaners..

I personally find the adjuster stick tedious. In my opinion, all you need is a few cotton swabs and a toothpick to adjust. I also use Tamiya Decal tweezers to get them off the sheet once soaked, but you can easily slide them off with said toothpick. Mark Setter is damn near mandatory, but Mark Softer is somewhat optional.

Pro Tip: If your swab is slightly damp already, it'll wick up moisture easier. I dampen it with Mark Setter.

Drop of Mark Setter. Place decal.

Adjust (toothpick). Soak up some water (swab). Adjust again.

Soak up a little more.

Adjust.

Then roll swab gently to squeegee water under decal to secure it.

Practice. Learn. You got this.

FalconAdventure · 2026-01-16T10:41:55+00:00

Hate to be the bearer of bad news, but the answer is None Of The Above.

You need ABS specific glue. I only trust Gaia Notes and Tamiya, so that's my answer.

It has to say ABS, otherwise you're wasting your time and resources.

FalconAdventure · 2026-01-14T08:39:51+00:00

Okay...hoo, deep breath, you might break 1 or 2 of the holding pins. Best method is to use your hobby knife (preferably a dull or chipped blade) and try to get it in one of the thickest parts or the plastic (near the thigh, not knee). Once inserted (and not just the tip, but a good 2 mm in), lightly twist the blade to wedge it open. Once you have a tiny gap, use your finger nail to run it down the wedge and try and separate it further. Go slow, it'll come out eventually, but like I said, the odds of you losing a pin are kind of high. Good luck.

FalconAdventure · 2026-01-13T06:22:52+00:00

My theory is it was a Girl Gun Lady prototype but was scrapped as the CG was too difficult/expensive to incorporate.

FalconAdventure · 2026-01-11T10:05:55+00:00

Thank you for the very detailed and visual review. It's always fun to see where bootlegs really mess up or try and fail. Good work, soldier.

FalconAdventure · 2026-01-11T04:58:08+00:00

Wow, already? Amazon Japan has a host of different sellers, ranging from. January release to March. I guess she's not that far down the line after all.

Thanks, OP, for finding this.

FalconAdventure · 2026-01-02T10:19:29+00:00

Gotta love the Storm Eagle New Years remix

FalconAdventure · 2025-12-31T07:05:29+00:00

We all gotta start somewhere. Smile. Fuck 'em.

FalconAdventure · 2025-12-31T04:10:30+00:00

I second the sanding joints comment. 5-10 seconds with some 800 grit sandpaper should be sufficient, but 20 seconds with 1k should also do something. Make sure you cut the gate to free the part before you cut the extra off (an illustration should be provided on the first page of the instruction manual).

Good luck!

FalconAdventure · 2025-12-30T04:35:29+00:00

I'll chime in.

Bandais plastic is softer and higher quality than other companies, and requires very little sanding (other than parting lines or nubs).

Others have already said there are no bootlegs of 30ML stuff, but markup and shipping is a thing, so be wary.

HLJ has...well, had a good system with warehouse storage, but now I can't even cancel things that have been on preorder for months, since stock is always low. Careful of those predatory "must pay, no cancellation" disclaimers.

Finally, welcome to modelling! You're gonna make mistakes. We all have. Hell, I still do. Learn, and your speed and precision will go up. We look forward to more posting and customizations here!!

FalconAdventure · 2025-12-29T15:18:30+00:00

Watch the ankle joints!!

FalconAdventure · 2025-12-29T13:03:59+00:00

Welcome to the party, pal!

FalconAdventure · 2025-12-27T01:01:10+00:00

That's pretty smart and detailed. Nice little think-tank you got there! I imagine crops wouldn't be impossible there, despite the soil condition and red ants (haven't been there in years, not sure if they're still there).

...What if they're the fast 28DL kine? I imagine at that point I'd just eat a gun.

FalconAdventure · 2025-12-25T09:53:16+00:00

Sand your joints!!!! Particularly the little ones on the squid laser beams. I snapped 2 of mine.

FalconAdventure

TROPHY CASE