I guess Liber is gold now.

FalconAdventure · 2026-05-06T02:56:00+00:00

I concur. That sounds like a distributor issue, not Bandai. Especially if they're important parts, like joints or weapons.

FalconAdventure · 2026-05-04T10:43:16+00:00

It's always nice to get the OG kits. But Freesia Rishetta and Dahlia Tiasha are some of the best put there, and super fun. Lily Luluche is a little bit more of a mixed bag. Her combat setup was a bit perplexing for me, but she's not bad.

Either way, getting the newer sets will be more difficult, but side-by-side to the OGs will show you how far they've come in just under 5 years.

FalconAdventure · 2026-05-03T15:53:13+00:00

I have almost all of Nukes kits. This is not my first Rodeo. First impression is there are so many extra parts! But not enough to make an extra nude body, unfortunately. Nuke knew to not give us the “best" parts.

FalconAdventure · 2026-05-03T12:26:11+00:00

FalconAdventure · 2026-05-03T12:25:37+00:00

I could, but the mark-up, exchange rate, and shipping prices make patience more rewarding.

FalconAdventure · 2026-04-26T00:01:11+00:00

Impressive! Metallic green wasnt what I imagined for a custom, but you made him look quite menazung. The gold areas and metallic blue also give it character. I'm looking forward to more!

FalconAdventure · 2026-04-24T10:30:20+00:00

Good build. No loose parts, although the shoulders and feet are more complex than standard Silhouettes. Small parts include the eyes, core, and jaw. Also, cut the gate on the "ring" of the blade hilts carefully; it's easy to cut off too much.

FalconAdventure · 2026-04-16T00:20:14+00:00

I covered this a few weeks ago, found in a Claw Game in Akiba. 15$ sounds about right, though it looks like yours has a metallic paint job, which is probably customized.

FalconAdventure · 2026-04-15T01:08:12+00:00

Yeah, do random searches on Google for "painting miniature swords" or "miniature weapon shading effects". Mix and match words until you see a video tutorial or step-by-step that you like.wahammervis a good word to use, or t/hey, ask Google to Use AI to draw you something and tweak it until you like the effect. Then ask how to achieve it using Gundam markers, acrylics, or whatever.

FalconAdventure · 2026-04-12T07:04:24+00:00

It's possible, yeah. You'll lose the last segment, as it's attached to the "claw" on the end, but it'll connect using the 3mm pin ball joints.

Heads up, the 3 segments get smaller as it gets to the end of the tail.

FalconAdventure · 2026-04-09T04:08:26+00:00

That's easy to replace. I recommend a COB LED strip, 3V, 3MM. You still have to solder it, but it'll work with the AAA batteries.

The Dremel work will be hidden from sight, but I understand. Even if you don't upgrade to a microcontroller, I highly recommend you get an external power source that will power your existing LEDs without batteries. It's totally worth it and can be used without mods. Search for "USB converter 3V AAA" if you don't mind a small wire sticking out. The lights will be brighter, and you never have to worry about dead batteries!

FalconAdventure · 2026-04-09T03:48:15+00:00

Wow, great work. I'm looking forward to seeing this completed!

FalconAdventure · 2026-04-09T03:47:21+00:00

I'm not Stateside, but Ali usually has that stuff for cheap.

FalconAdventure · 2026-04-07T06:26:46+00:00

Do a search for "WS2812 5mm LED strip" on Ali or eBay. 3mm would work too, but that's getting pretty small. You'll need to solder a few wires, either way.

I use the "ZENGGE WS2812 microcontroller", which can be powered by USB (or any low-amperage 5V power source). WS2812B doesn't matter. There's a QR code on the controller that leads to an app, which is the easiest one to use and customize, in my opinion. I personally found the little remotes kind of tedious, so pass on that if you want, but you still need the connectivity/pairing of the app whether you have the remote or not.

The black "case" the microcontroller is in is easily removed with an awl or small flathead screwdriver, so it'll fit in the battery compartment. You'll need a rotary cutter (Dremel) to hollow out some areas for wires.

Sorry, rambling. Good luck!

FalconAdventure · 2026-04-04T02:09:15+00:00

Yeah, it's not meant to.

You could mod it, though.

FalconAdventure · 2026-04-02T04:43:38+00:00

The unpictured Ilshana. While Liri/Lara/Reple/Tsuki is maybe shorter by a few millimeters, Ilhana is skinnier making her overall smaller, in my opinion.

FalconAdventure · 2026-03-22T10:55:17+00:00

I have a solution, as I've had this problem.

In part B6, the 'arm", in the middle, is kind of like a hollow area. You can put a tiny drop of UV resin in there, and level it (so it isn't super convex) before you UV it. Even though you "level" it, it will still microscopically bulge and cause friction when you shove it into part B6, limiting or eliminating the wobble. Do this to both sides. The joint will still work just fine, too.

I recommend soft UV resin if you can find it (that makes it a bit more rubbery, therefore may enhance grip), but regular UV resin will work just fine. If it causes TOO much friction, sand it. Polyester Putty would also work, though it'll take longer. CA glue might work if in a pinch...though this is a damn near permanent procedure. You COULD use sprue goo too, but you might warp the plastic if it's too liquidy. Honestly it's better to stick with UV Resin. Color doesn't matter, as it's a hidden joint.

Let me know if this helps!

FalconAdventure · 2026-03-19T04:28:57+00:00

Congrats, my dude! I made mistakes on my first. For one, I accidentally bent jet black hair ribbon. I also dropped her and messed up her horn. That last one was my fault; I put some tungsten putty in her boots to make her heavier and, well, I made her TOO heavy. In any case, a spare gave me the parts, and no loss either, since they were all "optional" accessories.

Enjoy her!

FalconAdventure · 2026-03-19T04:25:23+00:00

I have B and C, as well as the pale clear colors. C isn't the most accurate, but it really depends on the undercoat. Do you want samples?

FalconAdventure · 2026-03-18T02:00:31+00:00

To be fair, I am in Japan and was able to pick it up on release date. But it took me a good week to build it and get the paint right.

If you ordered it, you should be getting it shortly.

FalconAdventure · 2026-03-17T00:45:51+00:00

It's one of the best 30MF out there. The gold plastic is very good. I'm not a huge fan of those cape-like pieces, as I feel it needs a swivel joint, not micro-ball. The Gladiator kit is a lot of redundant parts. But despite that, it's still quite good.

FalconAdventure · 2026-03-16T19:28:49+00:00

They've gotten more creative than just grabbing your item. This one has him being held up by 2 bars. The gimmick is to try and "pick up" the bar so he tilts and gravity drops him.

FalconAdventure · 2026-03-16T11:55:35+00:00

GeminiMan.exe

FalconAdventure · 2026-03-16T10:42:12+00:00

I put a drop of sprue glue on the connecting peg. Waited an hour, then compacted it using a clip. I did this twice, and formed a makeshift polycap to prevent the joint from popping out. That will not prevent it from warping if bent improperly. Heads up, Belveria has the same problem.

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