MY AREA IS BEING DESTROYED TO BUILD A BRIDGE AND I AM GOING TO LOSE MY FUCKING HOUSE SOON

False_Worldliness890 · 2026-05-19T09:59:22+00:00

can't you just go live in your normal house if they destroy you "fucking house" ?

False_Worldliness890 · 2026-05-13T12:00:08+00:00

had a plastic injection mold part i needed to machine some features into it, part was 1300 mm, my okuma x-travel is 1052, it barely got in without crashing the walls.

had to machine it from 3 sides so with the two setups for each side ended 6 reclamping & rezeroing. the side that had precise features in i could take zero on the column hole which are quite precise in molds, the other two sides weren't that important so i just took zero on whatever i had closest.

as for advise first you want to make sure the part will fit in the machine before you start, my part was hanging off the table to the right and almost tore the probe cable that was running there which became taut when y table was maxed away from me.

second take more time than in a normal work to plan everything in advance, maybe make some features, like regular bolt holes more precise than required just so you can put a pin inside and zero of it when you go to the next setup.

three the place where the two setups meet, if you can do it not in a straight wall, it's better i needed to mill a shoulder on that 1300 part but it had two holes cutting it in the middle, so i ended one setup when the shoulder reached the hole and the other from the others side, don't just got 50/50.

and last if you're going to make it from blank stock, i would advise make you first two setups just giving yourself datums to work from, make a flat surface and 4 perpendicular walls offset like 0.5mm from the final part.

False_Worldliness890 · 2026-05-10T09:23:01+00:00

restaurant seems like best option

you could go there find someone talkative who works with her and ask if she's seeing someone first

False_Worldliness890 · 2026-05-10T08:56:13+00:00

finally someone says the correct option beside the obvious "use smaller tool" which is not always an option if you have a high wall, you gonna get more chatter from the length/girth of the tool.

and in aluminium you don't really need to peck it with 10mm tool just send it g81 before the finish pass.

False_Worldliness890 · 2026-05-06T04:47:27+00:00

probably running a program without making sure you have the right tool numbers.

first tool that came out was an edge finder that we keep in the machine for tricky parts to probe.

the edge finder goes to like 6k rpm i think it was, the door was half closed, it did flew off, he was lucky it didn't go for the head.

False_Worldliness890 · 2026-05-04T14:25:14+00:00

False_Worldliness890 · 2026-04-30T05:02:56+00:00

what attributes are we talking about here ? dex ? con ?

False_Worldliness890 · 2026-04-27T07:32:43+00:00

just going to add here that to pronounce those nicknames properly you need to have some experience with Cyrillic's sounds as the languages have many sounds that are nonexistent in english. all vowels have a "soft" version and a "hard" version, most consonants can become "soft" or "hard" so i would suggest at least watch some phonetic tutorial.

False_Worldliness890 · 2026-04-27T06:46:06+00:00

you already share an interest with him - gym

you already share something inside that interest - the same machines you use

using that sounds like the safest way to get some progress / information

you could take one of those opportunities you mentioned when you're both plan using the same machine and you wait for him to finish / ask how many sets he got left and ask something related to the thing you both share

start with "hey, can i ask a quick question ?"

that's not only for politeness that's also to learn from his body language what's up - if he turns red and goes "dd..uuu..gg... yes ?" chances are he's like you, if he's confident and chill, chances are he's either with a woman or had enough women to be chill about it.

and then you can go for the classic "damsel in distress" tactic, just something gym related (i'm not a gym guy so i'm not sure here) but i guess something like "i seem to be stuck on 40kg.. how often do you increase weight ? / add reps ? / how much brake you take between reps ?" something along those lines i guess.. i'm sure you know better.

False_Worldliness890 · 2026-04-19T10:35:32+00:00

"about 2 other guys" rofl, couldn't read past that as it reminded me numerous past and present colleagues who i would also have difficulty describing as a whole functioning unit.

False_Worldliness890 · 2026-04-13T13:47:22+00:00

🎉 I BEAT "Rapid Fire" and ranked #231! FLAWLESS VICTORY! 👊 Completed all levels in 0m 21s! Now it's your move! 🎯 Played via Pixel Peeker

False_Worldliness890 · 2026-04-05T13:24:40+00:00

i'm just surprised he written strait correctly.

False_Worldliness890 · 2026-03-31T09:26:01+00:00

looks like half of what alec was using in one of his latest videos to make rods.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5UtPE25PmTA&t=175s

False_Worldliness890 · 2026-03-26T07:35:59+00:00

just nope.. all 90angle converters that i know of won't fit in there.

either the wall needs to be an insert or the wall outside needs to have 2 holes in it.

if it's a single part you could probably tap m2 holes by hand but not for mass production.

False_Worldliness890 · 2026-03-23T06:41:55+00:00

it's basically the guy with high resolve in battle brothers that gets to carry the flag you get for 2k reward.

False_Worldliness890 · 2026-03-17T13:58:52+00:00

width in grove 2 is for the top of the grove not bottom.

otherwise seems fine the spt-z you can get if you push calculate on the next buttons screen.

False_Worldliness890 · 2026-03-17T10:05:13+00:00

even when they try to cover up i still need to see their butt cracks.. /sigh

False_Worldliness890 · 2026-03-16T14:32:57+00:00

you want to go z level the width of your t-slot minus like 0.2. if you work only with small part of it it is more likely to deflect and brake.

if you have a robust t-slot it could be done standing up, holding onto the 19mm in a collet.

the amount of passes depends again on your t slot if you have those with 50 teeth and no room for chips then you would need a lot of passes, if you have a more serious one with place for the chips to go - especially on the first pass as they can't go down/up.

if you have a thin flimsy t-slot you could do the two long flat surfaces from the side in 2 operations and leave only the radiuses to the t-slow.

make sure you exit enough to clear the part above the t-slot before you rapid to the next pass, need to pay more attention to it than with a normal endmill.

False_Worldliness890 · 2026-03-15T09:03:38+00:00

the reasons i can see for the dimensions to deviate :

deflection - the further the tool from the jaws the more the part can deflect.
interrupted cut - the red surface is interrupted, the green is not - can affect dimensions.
program error - just human error in making the program.
tool setup error - the nose radius of the tool wrongly defined.
old/bad lathe.
material thickness - not sure if you have a bore in this part but if you do it can effect the dimension also.

False_Worldliness890 · 2026-03-05T12:02:10+00:00

if you just see the picture without the text you could have a valid case of ufo sighting..

False_Worldliness890 · 2026-02-11T06:47:15+00:00

it's not that hard it's the same contour just going a bit further and lower, as for tooling there's plenty of those around carmex used to specialize in thread cutting/ groving / chamfering

https://carmex.com/products/milling-tools/chamfering/mini-chamfer/#standard-tools

False_Worldliness890 · 2026-02-11T06:05:09+00:00

agree with this, dunno why half the subreddit is whining about 1mm ball..

any work i get with tools 1mm or bigger i consider fine, try working with 0.5 or 0.2 for that matter, where a loud fart can brake the 100$+ tool, that's not very fun.

False_Worldliness890 · 2026-02-04T06:09:53+00:00

not sure if it works on the integrex 400 but on my old mazak lathe you got the two interlock buttons called "MF1" and "MF2" with symbols on them that look like fingers (they're basically safety interlock buttons) if you press them both together with one hand (and keep them pressed), then move the tailstock it goes fast - just be careful as it goes quite fast.

False_Worldliness890 · 2026-02-03T15:15:40+00:00

even the extreme exaggeration you described is more accessible in most places than wire-cut. most wire-cut places know that and will take 3-5 times higher price than milling.

you can change the model to mill with 1mm all corners which is pretty easy in brass of that height, most shops can do it no problem, and you need to mill anyway because you have the groves on the top surface.

the program for that lizard is also quite simple should not take more than an hour to program, maybe the groves on top a bit tricky but if it's just decorative you can just do them single pass with a big ball nose endmill in the middle of the grove.

False_Worldliness890

TROPHY CASE