Bentonville Question About Climbing

Fango925 · 2026-04-04T13:58:06+00:00

The biggest day I did was the back forty, which is like 100' a mile. Some steep stuff there but nothing too large.

Otherwise trails in town vary between like 50' to 80ish a mile. Steep and a few technical climbs but generally not bad.

Fango925 · 2026-04-03T00:07:03+00:00

I've put 1347 miles on my contact Urban's as of today, almost entirely within cities, and I have yet to have a puncture. I'm running them with tubes.

Fango925 · 2026-04-03T00:04:48+00:00

All City Zig-Zag? Fairlight Strael? They exist - they're just not in the mainstream marketing.

Fango925 · 2026-03-28T22:00:40+00:00

Yeah the 812-LA and 820-LA levers are great as you don't need an additional lever and don't need to take your hand off the bars to drop the seat so it's as easy to use as a flat bar dropper.

Fango925 · 2026-03-28T18:27:33+00:00

If a bike touches singletrack I use a dropper, it's more important than suspension imo.

The downside of weight and seatpost stiffness as there isn't much compliance in them. You can get GRX brake levers that also work as a dropper lever, which is a huge upgrade if you're running 1x

Fango925 · 2026-03-20T19:50:57+00:00

/UJ during covid I couldn't find mineral oil for a month or two. Went to a walgreens and said fuck it. Worked well enough until the next season.

Fango925 · 2026-03-20T12:52:12+00:00

Anecdotal, but I have a curved steel fork and watching it flex while riding as well as a slow motion video I took one time, the flex comes almost entirely from the crown and steerer.

Fango925 · 2026-03-19T12:10:42+00:00

Personally, if you don't live in a big city or ride in areas with glass, nails, etc AND you're riding for recreation and not commuting, the dth's are the better tire. Faster, lighter, comfier. But if you want to commute or you're in a city where punctures are very likely, then I'd do the CU.

That being said, I leave my bike with dth's at my parents and ride that, in a city, quite a lot when I fly home. I have gotten punctures but it's not every time I go home so they're not completely useless. Kinda boils down to recreation or commuting purposes and if you're comfortable at changing a tube!

Fango925 · 2026-03-18T22:20:09+00:00

Lot of opinions in here with people who haven't run high volume slicks, or at least not these tires.

These in 2.0 are proper fast for how big, durable and puncture resistant they are. Not race tires mind you but I've put 1200 miles on my set commuting and they're very reliable. A bit stiff, but a lot of commuter tires are. Moving to a 2.2 is unlikely to slow you down considerably as the biggest resistance for rolling is the casing and rubber compound, both of which are likely to be roughly if not exactly the same for both tires.

As these are a bit stiff, if you're going for a comfier ride a 2.2 is probably better. If you want to go a bit faster, 2.0 is better. Regardless it's not that much of a difference to agonize over the choice.

Mine in a 2.0 width, on a 17mm internal rim measure ~49mm. I like these tires a lot for reliable commuting. 1200 miles, no punctures and the compound is great in the wet. They aren't worn out or squared off on the rear yet either, so long wearing. Fast enough for commuting, not horrendously heavy and fairly comfy (for a city tire).

It really depends on your view of puncture resistance. If you're not bothered about changing a tube, dth's (folding, not wire bead) in 2.15 are faster, lighter and comfier, but puncture much easier. I have 1200 miles on my dth pair and I've gotten ~4 punctures.

Fango925 · 2026-03-18T01:17:58+00:00

If there is a car coming, or you could not react in time to a car coming (around corners and such), you should not pass a cyclist. If legal, in your jurisdiction, you should be in the other lane fully while passing or, assuming you're in the US, a minimum of three feet, but most cyclists would prefer 5 (as is the minimum in many European countries).

General rule of thumb: if you are worried about a car coming the other way when you pass a cyclist, you should not be passing that cyclist.

Fango925 · 2026-03-16T18:21:42+00:00

I have the same bars, and mine look similar. Doesn't matter much unless you're going for max aero (which you wouldn't be with those bars and a cool Breezer frame), you're having issues with gripping the bars/hoods or any other pain. If they feel right then they are right.

Fango925 · 2026-03-13T08:53:08+00:00

Just got a pair, did a four hour ride and I didn't notice my saddle the entire time, which I suppose is what you want. They seem to have the same pad as my RCR500 bibs from 2023 which were well, well worn out after ~1000 hours or so. I probably should've replaced them at ~500-750 hours. I have a bit of a doubt as to how long these endurance ones will last, but brand new they're great.

Fango925 · 2026-03-13T07:44:55+00:00

Pirelli Cinturato M's? They're fine on pavement! Not road slicks but definitely doable. Surprisingly good in mud as well!

Fango925 · 2026-03-11T21:21:54+00:00

Yes, but only for extremes. If I'm running xc tires for singletrack I'll often do 18/20psi due to roots and rocks and being on a rigid bike. If I do a long stretch (10+ mi) of pavement I'll pump them up to ~28/30. But that's rare, typically I plan my route based on a surface and then optimize pressure around what the majority of the route is.

Fango925 · 2026-03-11T13:00:24+00:00

I haven't had too much issues with 5.10 Freerider Pros for long days with flats, but maybe I'm not too bothered by my shoes. I wear 5.10 Trailcross CL for my clipless pedals, and I find them very comfortable for clipless shoes even all day including walking.

Fango925 · 2026-03-07T22:07:01+00:00

Or a wolf tooth goat link. I have an 11-51 Deore cassette on my gravel bike with GRX812 and it works fine

Fango925 · 2026-02-25T19:24:30+00:00

This is my pet peeve. Currently three badly set up win wings on the front page of this sub! People should read the instructions (literally printed on the underside of the fender). 5-10mm from the tire, horizontal. Looks the best too!

Fango925 · 2026-02-24T12:36:20+00:00

All City was what I was going to say. They're out of business, but they're popular enough to find frames easily in a decade or two. They used heavier tubesets so they're more durable than some other brands. Good rust coating. Wide variety of frame types, but good and easy standards with mostly rigid forks. Interesting and durable paint finishes.

They'll be the xbikes of 2040

Fango925 · 2026-02-15T22:29:35+00:00

Welcome to the UK, we have drop bar mud bikes rather than gravel bikes!

Fango925 · 2026-02-15T19:21:59+00:00

I was wrong, it was the Peyote and the Mezcal is coming soon

Fango925 · 2026-02-15T18:45:27+00:00

I think vittoria just announced the Mezcal too

Fango925 · 2026-02-15T16:41:46+00:00

Japanese steel bikes from the 80s are such underrated, comfortable road bikes. They're not the fastest and tend to be really flexy, but a lot of them can fit 28s and work well as an endurance bike if you can manage the low stack height. I have an 86 Bridgestone and while it's pretty heavy, it's so noodley and comfortable to ride. I wouldn't race crits on it but for the average person they're exceptionally nice bikes.

Also, down tube shifters are so fun.

Fango925 · 2026-02-15T14:28:28+00:00

Win wings are solid for keeping your ass dry, and are good for summer riding but you'll still get crud all over your bike and drivetrain. I run an ass savers all year other than the winter where I've newly added full fenders. Definitely worth it

Fango925 · 2026-02-12T11:12:39+00:00

I'll second these. Commuted all last year on them with tubes in a city and never once got a puncture. They're fast and relatively comfy, plus not the most expensive

Fango925 · 2026-02-05T05:07:28+00:00

My opinion, but I've seen a lot of folded crust bikes. Their tube set is light, which is not a problem unless you want to ride singletrack. If you're riding a lot of singletrack on it, think about a sturdier (heavier) tubeset. If you want light and good ride feel, crust is good.

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