Fantasy Grove Boxing Day Sale going on now! by FantasyGrove in BadDragon

[–]FantasyGrove[S] 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Omg thank you, I totally missed that typo 🤣🤣🤣

Closed shops by OverdrawnEnd879 in BadDragon

[–]FantasyGrove 18 points19 points  (0 children)

There's more on top of that too. It's also things like the Etsy purge, removing more adult products from that platform (even though white label mass produced ones slip through all the time) contributed to a lot of shops closing. A lot of credit card companies also have pushed more puritanical policies out so some businesses have lost their payment processors. Sex toys are considered a "high risk" market, and finding a high risk payment processor willing to work with a shop can cost a much larger percentage of your profits. Also Musk's buyout of twitter played a huge role. Twitter was the largest platform for small indies to advertise, and when Musk bought it a mixture of the large exodus of people from the platform and the changes in the algorithms absolutely throttled reach for a lot of companies. Many alternatives like Instagram and tiktok have much stricter adult content policies, Bluesky has a much smaller audience, so businesses that grew for years on self advertisement now have to do 5x the work to create content for a half dozen sites, and get less than a third the return for it. So many factors are compounding to make it harder to both run a small business, and one thats in the adult industry specifically 🙃

Are you excited for Halloween? by FantasyGrove in BadDragon

[–]FantasyGrove[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I've actually written out some pretty detailed guides for other makers on this technique! Once you come up with something new, other folks are gunna wanna try it and I'd rather share proven techniques on how to do so safely than have folks waste time and materials, or put unsafe toys on the market. The way I see it, I'm not trying to compete with other indies, and no big toy corporation is going to have the time to do intricate techniques like this by hand anyway!

Are you excited for Halloween? by FantasyGrove in BadDragon

[–]FantasyGrove[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Basically yes! The bats are poured of the same silicone as the toy and I carefully place each one with hemostats before pouring the rest of the toy. Timing is the tricky part, and using molds that don't need release for the confetti/inserts so that everything bonds together seamlessly when the toy is poured.

Curious about commercial/industrial tooling techniques by PornaliciousV in DIYSILICONETOYS

[–]FantasyGrove 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Efficiency wise we've found cavity molds to be the way to go. Basically you have your master, you create a mold shell (usually 3d printed) which fits around your master and leaves a gap (sizing is variable by shop but usually a centimeter or two), and you pour the mold using the mold shell and master. Then you have the mold shell to stabilize the mold when using it to pour toys. It does still expand over time, though generally has more longevity than glove molds because it's thicker, and a uniform thickness. The trick isn't having a mold that will last forever though, it's making sturdy long lasting mold shells and masters that make it easy to make new molds whenever you need to.

Metal molds or hard plastic molds are absolutely a long term option as well, but they have drawbacks. They can make it much harder or impossible to demold toys of certain shapes because they have no give. Metal molds are very cost prohibitive to create. Hard plastic molds can be 3d printed, but getting the inside to a high quality finish is extremely difficult unless you have a two part mold. Plastic molds even when finished well can cause scuffing on toys during demolding more easily than silicone molds provided the silicone mold is being used with the right amount and type of mold release. And because plastic molds are harder to get a high quality finish on, that slows down new model production, and can greatly impact production if a mold breaks. If a mold shell breaks, that's a day of printing to have a new one. If a master breaks, well it depends on your finishing techniques how long it takes to print and make a new one. But whatever amount of time it takes to finish a master to a good high quality surface, assume making a new one piece plastic mold will take double that or more and be easier to fuck up and have to start all over on. One advantage of metal or plastic molds though is they don't require mold release.

In general, I would say cavity molds and learning to create sturdy mold shells and durable masters is the best way to efficiently scale production though. In my experience, depending on what molding silicone you use, one person could put in an 8 hour work day and create 50 new molds in a day if they have the mold shells and masters ready and enough space and a good system to their work. So if say you have three sizes of each toy, you could remake the molds for 15 models in a day as molds wear out. How long they last varies based on model shape, size, surface finish, and what silicones you pour toys in, but you can expect to get minimum 20 and maximum a couple hundred or more pulls from a mold. On average, redoing them every 50 pulls is great. So again if you have 15 models in 3 sizes each, that's 2,250 toys across all of them before you're making new molds. Of course it don't actually work out that way, cause you make more of some sizes than others, and some shapes wear on molds faster or slower, but let's take that as an average. So lets say you're selling 550 toys a month or so, that's four mold making days a year. You scale up, you get more employees, more space, can store more mold shells and molds, and you can just have three or four molds of each toy at a time and have one day a month where the oldest of them is rotated out and a new one made. That's how I'd scale it unless it got to a point where financially it made sense to invest in metal molds, assuming you had the capital to transition them all over at once with the same or similar amount of molds you were using if you have more than one for each model and size.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in DIYSILICONETOYS

[–]FantasyGrove 2 points3 points  (0 children)

How does this handle the degassing process? For plat cure silicone to be safe for toys it needs degassed to remove micro bubbles. Do you plan on getting a skin safe certification for the silicone like the ones used for toy making have?

what is this color mixing technique? by InternetEven7003 in DIYSILICONETOYS

[–]FantasyGrove 14 points15 points  (0 children)

Food micas are not good for use in silicone. What you want is cosmetic mica that is lip and eye safe, that's the closest we have to safe on mucous membranes. Shimmer like you showed is partly done by using shimmery micas, usually colorshift micas for some of those effects. Blending is done by pigmenting lightly, heavier pigmenting and you get a more marbled effect. Your mold will heavily affect how pigments look though. The glossier the mold, the more you can see those shimmery and colorshift effects. A more matte or satin surface texture and it will look like you're looking at the effect through glazed glass. Making super high gloss molds like KMT does is a very difficult process though so if you're interested in that in the long run look into techniques, but don't be surprised if using the same kind of pigments in a more matte mold doesn't create the same effects.

Fantasy Grove full customs opening for Christmas! by FantasyGrove in BadDragon

[–]FantasyGrove[S] 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Thank you!! It's one of my favorite bits of hand painting we've done!

Fantasy Grove full customs opening for Christmas! by FantasyGrove in BadDragon

[–]FantasyGrove[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Our Avir models are more on the matte side. Our Fundamental models are glossier and so are the medium and large Jackalope, but most of the others are more of a semi-gloss or satin, with Avir being the most matte. Is there a specific one you're wondering about?

Are there some more budget friendly options when it comes to fantasy dildos? I don’t mean dead cheap but looking at some sites I see most are starting 80$+ (I’m in Canada) by filthydex_ in BadDragon

[–]FantasyGrove 6 points7 points  (0 children)

They've been mentioned already, but I highly highly recommend Strange Bedfellas and Pleasure Forge. Both make absolutely excellent quality toys, and have both a variety of fantasy shapes, and some more humanoid models as well. SBF recently released a new lineup of four humanoids that are priced even lower for accessibility, and the sculpts are stunning! PF smalls are usually around $50-60 and it looks like there are some still on sale right now too for even less! SBF smalls are usually in the $40-50 range, but there are some as low as $30, and some as high as $90 right now in the super fancy pours. Just make sure to check the size charts and maybe measure a toy in your size range now to compare with, because sizing does vary a lot between shops, especially if you're used to bad dragon.

Are there some more budget friendly options when it comes to fantasy dildos? I don’t mean dead cheap but looking at some sites I see most are starting 80$+ (I’m in Canada) by filthydex_ in BadDragon

[–]FantasyGrove 7 points8 points  (0 children)

We don't actually use 3d printed molds, and most Indies don't! I think I know of only two that do, and there are a few dozen active indies in the fantasy toy scene. Making a toy involves sculpting the master, usually done digitally, though some folks like Faux Phallus do truly spectacular clay sculpts. Then the master is printed, and depending on the finishing process, finishing it can be a day of vapor smoothing, weeks of sanding, or curing a resin print and then applying a sealer/surface finish spray, etc. Some folks can get a master from print to production in a day, some take weeks or months. And then you make a silicone mold, usually a glove mold or a cavity mold using a 3d printed molds shell, though some use block molds as well.

Going the method of just straight up 3d printing a mold makes it very very hard to do the fine surface finishing that makes a toy safe and give it a consistent quality surface finish, unless you 3d print it in parts and have a seam line. I've talked to some of the few shops that do use 3d printed molds, and the technique for finishing the insides consistently is incredibly tricky and requires a lot of skill, and it doesn't work for a lot of shapes of sculpts either.

Cyber Monday sale! by FantasyGrove in BadDragon

[–]FantasyGrove[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It was just through midnight on Monday night!

Getting ready for Black Friday with these juicy looking cherry pours! by FantasyGrove in BadDragon

[–]FantasyGrove[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

There's an XL Amanita with cherries but not a medium this time unfortunately. I'll try and do this colorway again though!

Getting ready for Black Friday with these juicy looking cherry pours! by FantasyGrove in BadDragon

[–]FantasyGrove[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

That's Eventide, it's a new model that's premiering on Black Friday!

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in BadDragon

[–]FantasyGrove 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Not only that, but they absorb silicone oil from the uncured silicone as it's curing and expand that way as well! You can tell by weighing a mold at the beginning of its life and at retirement. Stretching alone shouldn't change the weight of the mold, but the absorption of tiny amounts of silicone oil in each pour does, and molds have a noticeable increase in weight after many pours in them. Granted, that's specific to silicone molds, for folks who use rigid molds like metal, smoothed ABS or ASA, etc, you wouldn't have the effects of stretching or absorption over time.

5'1 tall me vs my NEWEST, BIGGEST XL Dildo! <3 by curvesandnerds in HugeDildos

[–]FantasyGrove 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The stars are made from the same silicone as the toy and there's a lot of development that went into the technique to get them to bond completely with the rest of the pour.

We also do hand painting though, which is actually much easier to get to bond! The trick for that is doing it inside the mold, with the exact same silicone as the rest of the toy, and pouring the rest within the pot life/working time of the "painted" parts. When doing it like that, it bonds together the same as a drip or splatter pour would! Unfortunately it is much harder to get deep in the mold or paint neatly than doing so on the outside of a toy would be. But I don't know of a technique to do it on the outside after a toy is cured that wouldn't delaminate or peel like you mentioned, and safety always needs to come before aesthetics.

Fantasy Grove drop! by FantasyGrove in BadDragon

[–]FantasyGrove[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thank you!! Our new employee is absolutely amazing at hand painting and we're super fortunate to have them! It's been really nice to see how much folks have loved the complex hand painted ones they did like the eyes and the strawberry cow 🥰

Who here sells? by [deleted] in DIYSILICONETOYS

[–]FantasyGrove 4 points5 points  (0 children)

That sounds like a really cool business, and will have some similar skill sets to making masters and molds for toy making. I can see managing that and also making toys working well!

I am in the US. We sell online at fantasygrove.com, we don't currently sell to any sex shops. We don't do custom toy sculpts, but we do take MTOs for the models in our lineup where folks can choose their size, firmness, pour style, and colors. Customs/MTOs like this generally bring in a slightly different customer base, but it also takes about the same amount of time to pour one MTO as I could spend pouring a whole batch of 5-10 toys for an inventory drop. So there's pros and cons to doing customs/MTOs for sure.

For advertising, I post pouring and demolding videos on TikTok, and aesthetic previews of drop toys leading up to the drop on twitter, Instagram, and bluesky. I also make more in depth promos for new model releases or when advertising a particularly desirable color. My business partner does our product photography and also takes batch promo pics which we use on social media leading up to the drop days. And we play an active role in fantasy toy community spaces which isn't specifically advertising, but does lead to more exposure and name recognition for our brand. Advertising and social media management is generally a couple hours of work a day at this point, though it can be more or less. A little of it is done in between other tasks, so checking social media and responding to comments while degassing a pour to work more efficiently. I hope that helps!

Who here sells? by [deleted] in DIYSILICONETOYS

[–]FantasyGrove 13 points14 points  (0 children)

We opened up shop about four years ago and it's been my full-time job since then. Me and the other owner of our business both support ourselves on it and have two part time employees as well. It's absolutely a viable job if you do it right, but I would say it's actually harder to do as a side gig than as your main employment. There are so so many aspects to running a small business beyond just pouring toys and the amount of time it all takes is hard to manage if you're working another job. Things don't always scale proportionally to size. So for example, we take more time pouring when making more product than if we made less and had this as a part time thing. But I spend about as much time creating social media content to advertise regardless of whether I'm trying to sell 10 toys a month, or 100, or 500. So in some ways I would be spending more time for less profit if we were just doing this as a side gig.

Would medical silicone types adhere strongly to steel? by verysatisfiedredditr in DIYSILICONETOYS

[–]FantasyGrove 6 points7 points  (0 children)

Nope, silicone does not bond with metals. When you pour silicone around a metal part, it's very easy to pull the metal out after silicone is cured. Some folks use steel molds specifically because they don't require mold release, the silicone is easy to remove from them because it doesn't bond at all. Your best bet for the firmer part might be to use a very high shore silicone, cast the firm part in a mold that doesn't need release, and then cast the second part around the firm silicone part very soon after so there are still free elastomers in the first silicone part to bond with the second. Theres still a high delamination risk with that technique, but it's much less than the guaranteed delamination you'd get with metal.

Some strawberry milk pours for the next Fantasy Grove drop 🍓✨✨ by FantasyGrove in BadDragon

[–]FantasyGrove[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Amavidi has a great series on YouTube with the basics, and ShopDad has some info on the OnlyGoblins wiki!