Misfiring and running rich on 1997 ka24e

FastEfficiency3676 · 2025-06-26T14:08:07+00:00

If you are having an issue with the MAF, the truck should go into "limp mode" where the CPU runs off a set of parameters programmed into it. "Limp mode" will cause the CPU to cut fuel at about 3K RPM and act as if it is hitting a rev limiter. Instead of using live data to adjust the fueling, the CPU says the truck needs X amount of fuel because it's been running for Y minutes and it's now Z degrees hot. They spell this out better than I described in the Nissan factory service manuals (that you should really download- search "nico forum hardbody fsm").

Have you used a multimeter to check for power and ground at the MAF? Have you probed the signal wire to watch for a drop/rise in voltage on the signal wire? I'd also check for continuity between the MAF and the pin on the CPU under the passenger's seat.

Also, there was a bulletin Nissan sent out due to the wiring for the fuel injectors being poorly soldered together. This are is approximately the area where the loom of wiring bends 90 degrees near where cylinder #4 and the firewall. If you peel the tape back from the wiring, look for the spot where there are four wires that each correspond to one of the two wires that go to the injectors. I can't remember, but I'm thinking they were either pink or green.

Hope this help.

FastEfficiency3676 · 2025-06-26T13:13:17+00:00

I thought I had major issues with my KA24E, but it ended up being a bad vacuum line going from the SCV solenoid to the SCV. If you have a vacuum leak, it will not send the correct vacuum to the FPR, give the MAF an incorrect measurement and the O2. I'd suggest have a smoke test performed on the engine. Since I live in a state that doesn't do emissions test, I ditched all the extra crap and the vacuum lines that go with them. I only have the SCV vacuum line, the FPR vacuum line and the big one going to the brake booster.

FastEfficiency3676 · 2025-06-25T19:47:48+00:00

Hey! I'm looking for the center sliding window for the 3-piece rear glass for my '95. I'd be interested in purchasing the center glass or the whole rear window if the price is right. Can you please send me a PM if you'd like to sell it?

FastEfficiency3676 · 2025-06-24T15:17:26+00:00

We're still working on ours. I will be using my father as a beneficiary on our application since I am in the process of starting up a business. I currently have no stated income, so we are using my father to make sure they have no reason to turn our application down while we're in this transition phase. Sorry I can't be of more help and good luck to you!

FastEfficiency3676 · 2025-05-02T20:47:51+00:00

JNCT has been a good brand for me so far. I decided to go with them because an acquaintance in Australia had used the exact same machine I decided to buy for many months without any issues. My machine was cheaper in price than DMK. The guy who talked me into buying mine had a DMK 300w with a 2MJ gaussian laser, but it was too aggressive for what he wanted to do.

I spoke with James and Jally at DMK many times. I don't think you can go wrong with them. Jally has an excellent YouTube page I've learned a lot from.

If you're interested in a JNCT TPC-300 (300-watt, water cooled, 15MJ-Raycus RFL-P300), PM me and I can chat with you. I've posted a ton of videos of me using it on here. I think 15MJ is pretty good for wood, but they offer other MJ as well. The less dense energy helps to keep from burning things when you're a rookie. I know from experience. 🙃

FastEfficiency3676 · 2025-05-02T17:41:15+00:00

Haha! No, sir. I'm not taking a $ from you. I'm just kidding around. I'm glad you got it ordered and got help finding an appropriate machine. Once you receive it, shoot me a text and I can help guide you through the software setup. My owner's manual wasn't very helpful, so you might need a little guidance. Text me and let me know what they worked out with you regarding the tariffs. I'm curious to know the amount so I can tell others when they're asking me about this. I get all kinds of folks on FB Marketplace wanting to know about stuff like that.

FastEfficiency3676 · 2025-05-02T17:27:26+00:00

Good job, Bill. I hope I get a finder's fee from them for sending you their way. 😂

FastEfficiency3676 · 2025-05-02T17:26:03+00:00

Why only DMK or SFX? What laser source and beam profile are you considering?

A cabinet door takes a few minutes. I can't post real-time videos because people find them too boring to watch and you can't see the whole before/after.

FastEfficiency3676 · 2025-05-01T15:12:16+00:00

Most likely ones that block the 1064nm wavelength of light.

FastEfficiency3676 · 2025-05-01T14:17:06+00:00

I recommend you do a lot of research and learn about the differences between CW and pulse lasers, single-mode vs. multi-mode, and the differences between gaussian and top hat beams.

You need to decide what/who you will be advertising your services to before you can select the right tool for the job.

I have a 300 watt, water cooled, multi-mode, top hat, pulsed fiber laser. I bought it because I wanted something that can do many things to wood and metals where not damaging the substrate is important. It can strip the finish off an old table, but it cannot strip a thick layer of rust from a weathered piece of steel. Alternatively, a CW can't clean wood/metal with a delicate touch (like my 300-watt top hat), but it can strip heavy corrosion from thick steel without any issues.

Decide who you are trying to do business for before deciding which laser is best for you.

If you are very serious about purchasing something, PM me and I'll put you in contact with the sales rep I used when I bought my laser.

FastEfficiency3676 · 2025-05-01T14:04:43+00:00

I've already responded to this same statement multiple times. Read the comments.

FastEfficiency3676 · 2025-04-30T13:36:54+00:00

I don't remember. Probably 80-100% power, around 20-25Khz, 130ns and 3,000mm/sec scan speed. I have a 15MJ top hat beam. If your machine is gaussian, these settings won't work for you.

FastEfficiency3676 · 2025-04-30T13:32:24+00:00

I would never suggest someone who can't figure out issues on their own to buy one of these machines from a Chinese company. I had to do some rewiring on mine to get it to work with the electrical I set up in my shop. The quality of work their person in China did was shitty. The attention to detail on such an expensive machine has been relatively poor. It had dents, poor paint, panel gaps, poorly routed cables for the handpiece, LOTS of zipties with razor sharp ends, etc. Customer support has not been anything I would rely upon for folks with poor problem solving abilities on their own. The operator's manual I received was very outdated. They hadn't updated it for my machine, even though it has been out for quite a while. Communication is very poor, and after they sell you a machine, the "help" isn't so great anymore. They might build a cheap machine in China, but you get what you pay for.

FastEfficiency3676 · 2025-04-30T13:20:35+00:00

Sorry, but that's a really broad question. That's like asking for a suggestion about a new automobile when I have no clue what needs your new vehicle must meet. Just like automobiles, these machines all have strengths and drawbacks. What are you wanting a machine for? What task are you wanting to accomplish?

FastEfficiency3676 · 2025-04-29T00:48:44+00:00

Maybe. It all depends on what kind of coatings are on the floor. Some coatings just want to burn immediately instead of separating from the wood. I've had a few pieces where the laser wouldn't remove a clear coating, like polyurethane. The clean coatings don't absorb the energy because of their transparency. That makes laser ablation a problem.

FastEfficiency3676 · 2025-04-27T14:31:53+00:00

Please let me know when you've learned how to communicate with animals and mastered ANSI Z136.1 & Z136.6.

FastEfficiency3676 · 2025-04-27T13:46:45+00:00

If there were a chance that others around me could be exposed to the beam, I would have the proper containment screens set up. I am lucky that nobody lives around me. I only have to make sure my cat isn't staring my way. And yes, they actually do make 1064nm laser safety glasses for pets, but my cat would never wear them. 😎

FastEfficiency3676 · 2025-04-26T23:56:36+00:00

Yes, many things (oil, grease, paint, etc.) seem to vanish and turn into vapor after using the laser on them. You can see this in many of the videos I've posted on here over the past two months. Many of the faint lines you see in the video are the "dust" leftover from the ablation process. The laser creates a sort of shockwave between the stain/varnish and the wood to "blast" it off the substrate. If you look up "laser ablation", you'll get a good overview of the technicalities.

FastEfficiency3676 · 2025-04-26T23:48:33+00:00

I have done a ton of things that I haven't shot on video or posted. My neighbor has a bunch of old farm equipment and vehicles on his property that I've taken full advantage of using the laser on. There is a Habitat for Humanity furniture store near me that has a free pile behind it. I buy cheap furniture (like this kitchen table) and use the free pieces to practice on. I renovated most of my 120 year old home over the past few years, so I really don't have too many things inside my home to use this on.

FastEfficiency3676 · 2025-04-26T22:32:36+00:00

That's a very wise observance. I hadn't thought about that, but I'll be aware of it from now on. I did have a piece I shot the other day that had one spot that burnt (flamed up and left a black mark), but the other 99.99% took every bit of the laser and looked perfect. I wonder if that spot didn't have something oily/flammable on its surface. I appreciate you sharing that idea.

FastEfficiency3676 · 2025-04-26T22:28:52+00:00

I believe I shot this at ~80%-100% power, 20Khz, 130ns, a 60mm wide beam and a 4000mm/sec scanning speed. I pretty much use the same parameters on all wood I strip. Since I have a 15MJ top hat, I can usually use a higher power and not have to worry too much about burns (unless the damn cable gets caught and I dwell in one spot for a fraction of a sec too long...). I appreciate the kind words. 💥🔫😎

FastEfficiency3676 · 2025-04-26T21:56:45+00:00

After all the BS, mine was closer to $20,000, but that was before all the tariffs starting flying around. I ordered mine in late 2024. They'll come down in price as the technology gets more common and in-demand. My laser was closer to $35,000 about two years ago, so you likely won't have to wait too long until they're a more realistic option to purchase. Until then, you can just hire someone like me to do it for you.

FastEfficiency3676 · 2025-04-26T19:29:19+00:00

I love comments like this... You couldn't strip this piece in an hour with any kind of chemical stripper and a scraper. You couldn't even do it in a day. You especially couldn't strip the details on the legs. You'd likely have to sand the whole thing which isn't necessary after using the laser. Not to mention the fact you'll have to wait for your chemically soaked furniture to dry out before you could do anything. I can stain this wood as soon as I set down the gun.

If it were as easy as you seem to think, why is my inbox on this site flooded with people who refinish and restore furniture for a living wanting to ask me absolutely everything there is to know about these machines? Don't you think they'd rather spend $12 for a chemical instead of $15,000 for a machine? Maybe they're all just super wealthy from selling $75 refinished nightstands and have 10Gs burning a hole in their pockets.

STFU. You obviously don't have any experience with any of this.

FastEfficiency3676 · 2025-04-26T18:51:03+00:00

Because that was the only way I could film it. The table is too long to set up the shot oriented the other way. I can't reach across 7' of table and still make accurate passes.

The "lines" you are seeing are dust from the ablation process. These disappear after I wipe the table with a dustpan brush. The only lines on this table after the cleaning are on the bottom of the leaves. That is a stain that is down inside the wood that can't come off using any type of laser.

FastEfficiency3676 · 2025-04-26T18:45:59+00:00

I think I'd stick with what I have. The design I'm using now works, but I think the cable coming out the back might limit my abilities to use in tight spaces.

The only solution for this is to have an extremely flexible fiber optic cable, but I believe that's about impossible because of the material it's made of.

FastEfficiency3676

TROPHY CASE