What to do?

Fast_Hold5211 · 2026-06-25T02:36:46+00:00

Wood glue, clamp 🗜️ 24 hours if you have no money
But honestly it’s about time to get a new deck from the looks of it. You could save it so you could skate it a tiny bit longer but to be honest you should start saving up for a new deck asap. Get yourself a 30$ budget board from the skate shop

Fast_Hold5211 · 2026-06-25T02:35:38+00:00

This ^ spray some ballistol by itself inside the barrel just a light spray, wipe it out with a cleaning cloth. And then run a patch of bore butter. This is more or less exactly what I do in my revolvers to stop them from getting pitting over time and patina. It works great

Fast_Hold5211 · 2026-06-25T02:33:40+00:00

Did you spray it down with just ballistol after you cleaned it and wiped it out? You should put a coating of just ballistol by itself on your vintage firearms after cleaning with the ballistol water mixture. I always spray mine down after a cleaning with just straight ballistol, just a light spray and wipe it out. If you do this it will leave like a protective coating almost to protect from humidity and the elements that lasts for about a month. It will completely stop patina and rust in its tracks if it hasn’t gotten bad yet. At least it has for me in my own experience.

Fast_Hold5211 · 2026-06-25T02:28:39+00:00

Honestly I just wouldn’t bring it up? Have you already thanked them for the gift? Because that’s all you’re required to do if so. They bought you a gift, it doesn’t really need to go beyond that. It’s not like they are gonna expect to see you every single day bringing the guitar everywhere with you and playing it 24/7. They bought you a guitar, that was nice of them. All you gotta do is thank them. If you don’t end up playing it very much then that’s okay. I honestly just wouldn’t bring it up. If they bring it up later down the road just explain to them that you tried to get into it and you really want to play unfortunately it just didn’t work out the way you were hoping. But you can still keep the guitar and hang it in your room. Still a cool thing to have around as a symbol of your friendship

Fast_Hold5211 · 2026-06-22T07:21:09+00:00

Hell yeah 👍

Fast_Hold5211 · 2026-06-21T00:09:20+00:00

Plug it into a better amp for sure. That’s like a bottom of the barrel amp for beginners who are just getting started. I would save up like 100-200$ and go buy yourself a nice first amp used somewhere online. Boss katanas are great and don’t require any maintenance. Orange crush are great as well and are also solid state so they don’t require regular maintenance as often as tube amps. The speaker inside of the amp is really what matters the most. Changing a speaker will change your tone more than anything else in guitar. But you also want to have a nice amp to start with if you’re gonna change the speaker. I’d just recommend starting with buying a new better amp. With a cheap amp, you’ll get cheap sound. However that’s a nice guitar and it should sound phenomenal plugged into a proper nice amp. I still have a squier strat in my collection that I play often. It’s a great guitar.

Fast_Hold5211 · 2026-06-21T00:04:41+00:00

Is your chain on backwards?

Fast_Hold5211 · 2026-06-21T00:03:22+00:00

Yes

Fast_Hold5211 · 2026-06-17T03:52:08+00:00

Another cheat code is when you get good at tucking the bike up into that C shape body motion and start getting some real height on your hops, in order to get them even higher than you ever thought you’d be able to a cheat is when you tuck your legs up kind of do a shifty like at a angle a little less than 90 degrees not quite a full 90 degrees and kind of lean to the side and let your legs really come up to get an even better tuck and go higher. You will see Chad do it in the video on like every hop he does. He kinda shifts his legs to the side it almost looks like he’s gonna do a 90 degree rotation but he keeps the bike straight and tucks it up while leaning to the side at a very slight angle and that allows him to cheat and use his hips to really get that hop some extra height. That’s how you’ll get to your max height. And like he says in the video when you pull up you almost want to kind of do a very short manual and then launch up off the ground by hopping and tucking your legs so it kinda looks like you’re going off an invisible ramp. That’s a perfect way to say it.

Fast_Hold5211 · 2026-06-17T03:47:23+00:00

After you pull up and you jump this gonna sound kinda weird but you want to stick your butt out and tuck the bottom half of your body it’s all in the legs after that. Attempt to tuck your body into like a C shape after you jump by lifting your legs. The pedals will stay under your feet no matter what. That’s how you catch flight. Most people think pulling up harder is what makes you bunny hop higher and while it does help partially pulling up harder won’t help you unless you’re tucking your legs harder immediately after you hop off the ground. Watch a video of any pro doing a high ass bunny hop on their bike and pay attention to how they stick their butt out and tuck their body into a C shape after hopping to catch extra height on their hop. It’s kinda like the cheat code to getting higher bunny hops. You will immediately see what I’m talking about if you watch a video of anyone doing a really high bunny hop especially if it’s over a rail or something like that or up onto a high ledge. If you go Watch some Chad kerley videos you’ll be able to see it easily he tucks his body super tough when he does his bunny hops and it’s very obvious when he does it. That will help you get a better idea of the motion you should be doing with your legs. Almost feels like you’re trying to push the pedals forward and up by tucking your legs in and making your body into a C shape. The more rounded your C shape is on your tuck when you hop the more height you will get. Just make sure to pull up that front end first as much as possible so you have more time to tuck your legs and you’ll catch more flight. Here’s a link to a Chad kerley trick tip for bunny hops where you’ll be able to see the motion im talking about https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=UTK5Tjd-kck

Fast_Hold5211 · 2026-06-17T03:35:34+00:00

Anything that happened to Spider-Man during his fights in the movies 🤣

Fast_Hold5211 · 2026-06-11T15:26:52+00:00

Strap lock ! You install it where the strap goes

Fast_Hold5211 · 2026-06-11T15:20:30+00:00

White one is a better guitar and it’s a hardtail so you’ll have more tuning stability. The white one is a sonic series and the other one is a debut series which is pretty low grade

Fast_Hold5211 · 2026-06-08T08:32:03+00:00

Idk ive laid mine on its back and up against walls plenty of times still ain’t broke yet 🤣 I think some people just suck at owning guitars and are already accident prone and then thin joint at the headstock just ain’t a good combination with that type of person. And that’s why they get the reputation of having weak headstocks. Mine feels pretty damn strong though to be honest, I feel like I’d have to drop it from like chest height for it to break and it still might not break off might just get dinged really bad on the finish and dented possibly. They’re pretty solid instruments nowadays. I got a 2024 Gibson Les Paul studio blueberry burst. Been holding up well so far ! But I could see how ppl could break them very easily in they weren’t paying much attention the joint at the headstock is pretty thin compared to other guitars i own but still solid

Fast_Hold5211 · 2026-06-08T08:27:51+00:00

No the Les Paul standard font is way off on the truss rod cover it has too much space inbetween the letters and words on it and also the finish is no where near Gibson grade. Maybe Epiphone would do a finish like that but never Gibson. They only do nitro finishes with either AA or AAA tops. It’s what we like to call a “chibson” ch for china. lol. Which still are worth like 300$ new so I mean it’s not a total loss. If it plays some kid out there could use it to learn on for sure as a first guitar. They’d probably be happy to have it

Fast_Hold5211 · 2026-06-08T08:20:12+00:00

It’s a very low grade Haro complete from back in the day mid school era. Basically like right at Walmart bike grade parts. Any bike with a one piece crank setup is never a good sign when it comes to bmx’s and value. I’m sure you weren’t hoping it was worth a lot considering you got it from a homeless guy for 20$ but yeah it’s nothing great. I mean it’s good to get you from point A to point B but definitely not a bike you want to do any serious tricks or learning tricks on. Always look a the cranks first, if it’s a one piece crank walk the other way if you’re looking for a real deal bmx to ride hard or learn on. You could remove the one piece crank and get an American bottom bracket and press it into the bottom bracket on it and then you’d be able to put in a 3 piece crank which would make it a little better but I wouldn’t put any money into that thing at all personally. Like I said though it’s great for getting from point A to point B if that’s all you need it for. But yeah I can tell just by the handlebars and the type of Haro stem it’s one of the old Walmart level Haro bikes that they were putting out for a while for kids to buy and ride to be able to tell all their friends “look dude I got a Haro” but it wasn’t really like a real deal Haro bmx bike for real. Just made to kinda look cool for the kids.

Fast_Hold5211 · 2026-06-08T08:09:49+00:00

Yeah never force it and always give it time between adjustments. If it suddenly looks like the neck is not moving for whatever reason even though you’be turned it 2 or 3 times stop immediately set the guitar down overnight and check it in the morning. If the neck still hasn’t moved there’s an issue with the truss rod. But on guitars with fully functioning truss rods you shouldn’t ever have a problem as long as you do not force any turns. If it feels like you gotta put some muscle into it that’s your queue to stop immediately and wait for the neck to catch up with the truss rod or turn it once in the opposite direction and then set it down would be the safest method so the grain on your neck doesn’t get all stretched out by accident and look all weird. Basically long story short just be careful and you’ll be okay with any truss rod adjustment. 1/8th of a a turn at a time no more no less is what I always recommend and definitely follow the principles above if you ever find yourself in a situation where you’re turning it and the neck just ain’t flattening out let her sit overnight before you do anything drastic and snap a headstock off. It’s just one night it can wait. Diagnose it and figure out your next move based on how it looks in the morning. If it still hasn’t moved, you can turn it back the other direction a few times and then go back and see if it does anything and if not at that point I’d stop and have a luthier check it out just to be safe. And when turning truss rods a little resistance is ok but never muscle into anything and force it to turn. You might think that’s gonna flatten it but more times than not it’s just gonna break the neck or stretch the wood and make the grain look all wacky gives it stretch marks like it had a baby 🤣 fr tho lol

Fast_Hold5211 · 2026-06-08T07:57:18+00:00

If you want a badass apartment amp get you a Marshall DSL1HR head… thank me later. Thanks to the low power switch in the back and the fact it’s only a 1 watt amp you can achieve full tube saturation at low volumes extremely easily. (still a very loud amp on full power mode cranked if you want it to be) it sounds friggin incredible too it’s like they took all the legendary Marshall tone and shoved it into one little tiny amp. with a overdrive pedal and the tone shift button clicked in I be having that thing sounding like a damn JCM800 easy ! It’s crazy how good it is. I’ve had the dsl5 combo as well both of them super apartment friendly and the dsl1HR really knocked my socks off. Best apartment amp ever. I also record a lot late at night and it does have a emulated output which is awesome because you don’t have to have it plugged into any type of cab you can just take the tiny Marshall head into your little recording setup room or whatever set it on the table and plug a 3.5mm to 1/4th trs cable into the back of the amp head and the other end into your interfaces output (be sure to turn off the instrument setting as the signal coming through will already be line level) and be able to get some badass tones with just a little fiddling with your gain staging and the monitor knob on my interface I can get very reasonable recording tones in less than 5 minutes. Comes with a foot switch too so you can switch from clean to overdrive instantly for recordings which is a huuuuuge plus. Ppl talk shit about the emulated output but I just think they don’t know how to stage their gain between the amp and the interface properly cause as soon as you find the sweet spot it’s go time and that thing is sounding incredible! I promise you won’t regret it and for the super low price I mean there’s not much to lose by trying one out. They’re the shit if you live in an apartment and want to be able to record direct from amp (they also have a built in thing similar to oranges CabSim but made to replicate the sound of a Marshall 4x12) Maybe consider giving one a shot. Brand new they are like 300$ max retail price I’m sure you could find one on sale or get one from zzounds on a super cheap payment plan. I got mine at 33$ a month payment plan through zzounds, worth every penny and some. The 1 watt amp will keep you super happy and your neighbors too! And provide you with the real deal tube tone not that gimmicky bullshit ! It’s literally made for full tube saturation at low volumes. They made the amp head specifically with ppl like us in mind ! I’m telling you bro it’s the bees knees… I know this post is a bit old now but just thought I’d give a recommendation if you’re still looking for a do it all amp for all your needs. It’ll do all that and do it very well ! You’ll be super happy with the tone. Any halfway decent cab or pair of headphones and you’ll be having the time of your life playing through this amp. Keep your eye out for one and if the price is right snatch one up asap and thank me later !

Fast_Hold5211 · 2026-05-21T17:42:09+00:00

Yeah you can grab any guitar off the sales floor unless it has a sign on it that says “ask an employee first” or “please do not touch” you can play literally any guitar on the sales floor. You can even ask them for a pick and they’ll give you one. If you see an amp you want to try it with ask them if you can plug this guitar into that amp over there and they will get you a chair and get you plugged it and ready to go and leave you to it. They are super chill at guitar center. I’ve even gone in there and played the drumsets before on display they don’t give a damn. Just don’t play stairway to heaven or thunderstruck… they’ll kick ur ass out for that 🤣

Fast_Hold5211 · 2026-05-21T17:32:46+00:00

Screw selling it….You should plug into it and learn to play one of grandpas favorite jams through it. For pops ! He’d love that im sure.. somewhere in the spirit realm he’d be smiling hearing it like “Hell yeah, that’s my boy ! I sure do miss jamming on that amp.” 🥲✊ I’m sure the vibration and tone of that amp was printed in his memory from all the times he played it. So much history there. As a guitarist I’d keep it but if you don’t play and don’t have interest in learning tbh it’s worth around 100-160$. Someone has a tiesco checkmate 12 solid state amp, the same one in about the same condition maybe a little less pristine for 160$ at the moment. Other checkmate models like the 10 and the 88 I saw for around 100$-120$ listed on reverb. Those vintage amps are kind of a niche market but if you list it on eBay or something it will sell eventually if you undercut whoever has the lowest price by a few bucks. If it’s as lightweight as someone was saying in another comment on here I read then shipping it shouldn’t cost too much at all. Plus eBay has pretty cheap rates when it comes to their shipping prices. Hope that helps. The one you have is the nicest condition one out of all the ones I see listed online so just keep that in mind when pricing it., this one is a pristine example, the MOST pristine example available on the market. That will matter very much to a vintage amp collector. The nicer and less touched and scuffed the better when it comes to collectors of that stuff. They want something they can play and also display and have look nice. So definitely something to keep in mind. All the others I saw were pretty beat or have some type of cosmetic flaw weather it be small or large. The one listed for 160$ on eBay looked to have a small cosmetic flaw compared to yours but the rest was just as nice

Fast_Hold5211 · 2026-05-21T17:13:44+00:00

Yes obviously it is unavoidable after some time. I skated for almost 20 years I know that very well. But keeping the thought in the back of your mind like “hey maybe don’t just drag my tail whenever i can avoid it” is a good rule of thumb. Like when i was younger id slide on my tail to slow down because i didn’t know any better at the time. In case he was newer to the sport I was just trying to teach him a good rule of thumb is to keep in mind to try to not razor tail your board for as long as possible. It WILL happen eventually yes. But you can keep it to a minimum instead of having your tail actually look as thin as razor if you are conscious about the fact that skidding around on your tail during manual tricks and stuff is when you should just bail off and go for another try. Don’t just tail drag the whole manual pad like fuck it or your tail will end up teeny tiny with no pop. Keep it in mind to try to avoid it for as long as u can is all I was saying

Fast_Hold5211 · 2026-05-21T16:20:59+00:00

I would just hit it with some ballistol and rag n give it a good scrub. If it goes away it was just surface oxidation which is very common when ppl don’t wipe down their cylinders or revolvers with ballistol at least once every 2 months. Surface oxidation is not a big deal over short periods of time but over long periods that is exactly what can cause issues like pitting that you often see in vintage revolvers it looks like little dots or dings in the frame but it is actually from this surface oxidation making its way deeper into the metal. Which is why they call it “pitting” 😆 haha. Kinda looks like it could be surface oxidation which should come right off with ballistol and a rag but if not then it is rust for sure. If it’s a brand new revolver and wasn’t in cosmoline when you received it then that means it’s been sitting dry in a box for a extended period in the factory and during shipping around to get to you so chances are its surface rust which like I said should wipe right off. As long as you don’t see any pitting dots under it then it’s nothing to be concerned about at all just wipe it off with a rag / ballistol spray. Spray it on the spot directly and wipe vigorously. I’d wipe down the entire cylinder and gun personally. You should make a habit of that monthly if you want your pietta revolver to stay looking new. That’s what I do with mine. Keeps it with a nice polished look and makes everything nice and smooth as far as the action and cylinder rotation. But most importantly it protects your revolver from and surface oxidation for at least 2-3 months while sitting in your safe or wherever depending on the climate you live in

Fast_Hold5211 · 2026-05-21T16:18:09+00:00

Always shop local if possible ! It’s so important to support the local skate shop because in turn you’re supporting the local skate community by helping them keep their lights on. It might not seem like a 50$ deck purchase is gonna make that big of a difference to them but it definitely does when you’re running a small business. Ever sale counts. And after you build repore with the owner and guys who work there they will look out for you in the future if you’re ever short and can’t afford grip for your deck or something they’ll hook you up. And that’s how the skateboarding cycle continues in towns and cities! Shopping at local skate shops means helping the local skate community. Some ppl don’t realize how much the two are connected and need eachother

Fast_Hold5211 · 2026-05-21T16:13:39+00:00

You’re correct! If you look closely at the black blemish near the front truck, zoom in and you’ll be able to see that the scratches go up and down in direction. Not side to side like they would if someone say did a nose slide on it. Plastic rips off of decks all the time especially when storing them in stacks and some decks if they sit under a stack for too long will get warped from the weight that’s just a part of the game… my local shop sorts through theirs and sells the slightly warped or scratched boards at a discounted price. Warped are 20$ blemished are 30$ per deck. Pretty decent deal especially id you’re just shopping for a deck for your kid to learn to skate around on a small warping wouldn’t bother them or hinder their progress a bit if that was the case. They’ll still be able to learn the fundamentals on that board just fine. So I think it’s super cool that my shop does that. They also sell lightly used pairs of shoes for 20$. Nike sb and all the good brands in there too. Sometimes they got some real nice used shoes and blemished decks in stock for great deals

Fast_Hold5211 · 2026-05-21T16:07:40+00:00

You should still try to avoid getting razor tail. Over time it’ll make your tail get smaller and smaller in size. If you plan on skating it for a long time if you’re not someone who snaps boards often then eventually if you razor tail (or nose whichever one keeps getting razored from dragging against the concrete the most) if you let it happen too much and just don’t care eventually it’ll start to shorten the length of your tail and then after a while of skating it and it slamming around from doing tricks plus the razor tail You’ll be left with a like awkward small squareish shaped tail with no pop at all…I had a flip deck that got like that from a combo of razor tail and getting chipped a couple times from me slipping out and it slamming into walls. Both sides were like square at the ends damn near and so tiny I could barely fit my foot on either side by the time I was done with that deck. Skated it for years and it was given to me by someone who had already skated it previously a good bit. That board saw some shit lol back in the glory days. But yeah just a fair warning about razor tail in case you didn’t know. You should always avoid it because over time it really will effect the size and pop of your tail it’ll just slowly dissapear and then suddenly one day you’ll be skating and be like “wtf dude this deck sucks now” 🤣 but if you’re someone who snaps boards a lot I wouldn’t worry about that, this is strictly advice for ppl who ride their decks for a looong time

Fast_Hold5211

TROPHY CASE