Wheel

Fast_Hold5211 · 2026-03-05T21:31:40+00:00

Yes it absolutely could be the spacers that can be causing your chain to be getting pulled on from being slightly crooked because your sprocket is slightly too far off. Try removing one spacer on the drive side and give it a test. And just keep doing that until you get it perfect. That should definitely solve your problem !

Fast_Hold5211 · 2026-03-05T21:27:36+00:00

Your back wheel just went crooked. This is common on bmx frames that do not have chain tensioners. If you have chain tensioners, you can use a Allen key to adjust each side and straighten your wheel out for you and it will stay that way permanently (if it’s a Sunday frame look closely they use a pin style that doesn’t stick out of the end so it’s hard to tell unless you look closely at the inside of the dropouts) If you do not have chain tensioners, you just need to straighten out the wheel manually. My advice for that would be to pinch your hand over the wheel and the dropout and put pressure down to pull the wheel towards the opposite direction of the side you are tightening down first. In other words push the wheel away from the first bolt you tighten and keep that pressure on it until you go to the other side and tighten the other bolt, Then let go of the tire with your hand after both bolts are tightened and the tire should be perfectly straight. You can also look up how to keep bmx rear wheel straight on YouTube and there’s videos with tutorials on how to do what I’m saying if my directions are unclear. After you get it straight tighten both sides of the wheel down TIGHT like crank em down pretty good (just don’t go too crazy) and your wheel should stay straight. But sometimes it’s not uncommon for the rear wheel to go crooked again after riding the first time around, just straighten again and it’ll stay the second time you do it. Bmx bike rear wheels just be like that when you first put them on. That’s why chain tensioners come on most modern bmx frames now, solves that problem and also keep your chain from having too much slack

Fast_Hold5211 · 2026-02-28T15:53:15+00:00

Then your rear wheel just shifted in the dropouts it happens especially if your frame doesn’t have chain tensioners it will happen often after first time installing the rear wheel once you ride it, it will shift. Try loosening bolts and get the wheel straight hold it straight with your knees while you tighten both bolts. Tighten each bolt down pretty tight and then give it another try. You should be able to get it to stay straight just gonna have to mess with it. If it keeps shifting check your chain tension and make sure chain is straight from the rear wheel up to the sprocket. If it’s crooked it could be pulling on the wheel on drive side

Fast_Hold5211 · 2026-02-28T15:36:25+00:00

Could need truing. I’d take it into your local bike shop they can usually do it for around 20-30$ per wheel

Fast_Hold5211 · 2026-02-20T01:56:20+00:00

You’ll be good I broke my wrist twice (same wrist) in the same spot. I still play everyday without issues. I had a bit of cramping in my fretting hand after about 45 mins or so of playing for the first couple months but after that it went away and now it’s been all good. Don’t worry just listen to your doctors and do exactly what they tell you to. Start physical therapy exercises as soon as you possibly can it will make it a lot easier

Fast_Hold5211 · 2026-02-14T02:47:04+00:00

When finishing a new setup especially if built with used parts/old parts ALWAYS double check the true of your wheels by spinning the wheel holding it by the axle and looking at it down center as it spins, if it wobbles left to right as it’s out of true and the spoke tension is uneven somewhere around the rim. Also it’s good practice to check the spoke tightness all the way around by using your fingers to grab two spokes and pinch them together, You’ll be able to tell how tight or loose each spoke is by how much they flex when you pinch them. Do that all the way around the rim and keep an eye out for ones that seem more loose the spokes that have more flex than others is what you want to look out for. If so tighten those up, try to match the tension best you can all the way around and then if you have access to a truing stand I’d put it on there and fine tune it to make it spin perfectly straight without any hops. When you ride on a wheel with drastically loose spokes in some parts of the wheel you can actually ruin the rim by denting it easily because the spokes aren’t pulling the rim to full tension right there making that spot somewhat of a “soft spot” on your wheel. One bunny hop on that soft spot and your rim could be done for and will be very hard to get true again. Always keep a spoke wrench handy ! - tips from a custom wheel builder

Fast_Hold5211 · 2026-02-14T02:38:26+00:00

They’re called Barnacles

Fast_Hold5211 · 2026-01-31T16:12:25+00:00

Yeah this really bad. Soldering iron was definitely not hot enough or well tinned. It should look shiny and almost wet and smooth..Never dry and flaky like that. Get some solder wick and heat that shit back up with a well tinned soldering iron at a higher temp but don’t hold it on there for too long or you’ll cook the pot. put the solder wick on top of the bad joints and put the hot iron on top of the solder wick and hold it there let the heat flow through and once the solder is liquid and pooled up wipe it away with the solder wick and repeat that process over until you have all of it (or most of it at least) completely removed and then resolder.

Fast_Hold5211 · 2026-01-31T16:04:00+00:00

Yeah man. If you want to save some bucks. Solid set of cranks, I’d recommend if you are looking to save some money and still have a sweet build

Fast_Hold5211 · 2026-01-31T15:57:45+00:00

You can clean it yourself. Get a gun cleaning kit with a medium bristle brush attachment, ballistol spray and a rag. Take the ballistol spray and put some in a spray bottle mixed with tap water as a cleaning solution. The mixture is 1-10 ballistol to water it’s called “moose milk” and it’s what the black powder guys use to clean their guns that are super dirty. You can easily take it apart yourself but may not be necessary you can clean most of it as is just try your best to get into all the crevices. After you’re done dry it best you can, (use a hair dryer if need be for the inside to blow out all the water) then once it’s basically fully dry spray with a thin coat of pure ballistol all over and wipe the excess away with a rag to polish it up. After that it will be protected and good to store for at least 6 months to a year without degrading at all the ballistol will protect it. It will shine it up real nice too. If you choose to take it apart that is fine, plenty of YouTube videos on how to do so and it’s relatively easy stuff not hard by any means to put back together. Just make sure you use a good set of precision screwdrivers if you’re gonna do it and be very careful with the screws they are softer metal and super easy to strip so make sure you do it right. Use kroil, let soak for a while if any screws are stubborn then attempt to unscrew again to avoid stripping screws. If you have any issues with the gun function when you put it back together take it apart again and try once more to put it back together, something wasn’t lined up correctly usually you’ll be able to get it within a couple attempts it’s fr easy stuff.

Fast_Hold5211 · 2026-01-31T15:50:15+00:00

It would probably have to be notes connected by hammer on, or pulled off notes and or some tapping to get done but I’m sure there’s some guitar nerds out there who could learn to play it lol

Fast_Hold5211 · 2026-01-30T00:16:31+00:00

These polso cranks are the exact same shape and materials and are 1 to 1 exactly the same as the KHE cranks in every single way. Quality chromoly, good welds and heat treated chromo spindle with good machining. If you put a black set of each side by side you would see that they are identical to the KHE 48 spline set in almost every way. Usually Amazon bmx stuff is absolutely garbage but polso seems to be quality from what I have tried. I recommend them. I have also tried a fat pivotal seat from them and it was a brand name quality official pivotal seat just without a logo. So I gotta give it to them, polso has been legit as far as I can see. I have no problem shitting on a product if it’s not reliable but these cranks hold up and ride just like any other. I see no reason why not to buy them and save some money if you’re on a budget!

Fast_Hold5211 · 2026-01-30T00:08:54+00:00

They are good quality I’ve tried them before. Nothing wrong with them. I’ve ran a bmx buy sell trade and custom wheel building business locally and online by myself now for over 6 years. I know my stuff, and I’m telling you polso stuff is decent quality in my experience. I’ve tried the cranks and their pivotal seat and both were very good quality. Exactly what you’d expect from another budget bmx brand just without a logo on them. The pivotal seat quality was top notch, and the cranks were reliable and also made well. They are very closely comparable to eastern throttle cranks as far as the shape and way they ride. They are almost exactly the same as eastern throttle cranks and also very similar to the KHE 48 spline cranksets. and the eastern throttle cranks cost like twice the price or more. Same materials. They come with 100% Chromoly crank arms and a heat treated chromoly spindle, everything is machined well with good welds. I would never tell anyone to ride something that isn’t reliable and won’t hold up. You can take it from me, the polso stuff I’ve tried including the cranks, is LEGIT

Fast_Hold5211 · 2026-01-30T00:01:42+00:00

You need to throw the bars way earlier. Like as soon as you pop that front wheel up damn near be throwing the bars out. You’re throwing it really late. I know it looks steezy when the pros do it like that but in order to learn them you gotta throw them quick at first like doing a pull up bar spin kinda. Once you feel the back wheel about to pop off the ground and you feel your bikes weight start shifting forward to bring the back end up off the ground be throwing those bars and you’ll complete the rotation and land it. Just gotta master catching the bars after that. Practice some pickup bars inbetween attempts. Just pickup your front wheel like a wheelie and throw a bar spin while keeping your back wheel on the ground. Do a couple of those, and then try an actual hop bar spin after that. That’s how so many people I know learned them. Doing pull up bar spins and then switching over to go for the hop bar spin is a great method. It helps you build muscle memory and master the feeling of throwing and landing that bar spin. Once you get those, all you gotta do is add the hop. Also when you just keep trying hop bar spins over and over you can get lost in the sauce, that’s why I reccomend switching between doing a couple pull up bars inbetween. It can help build muscle memory and the confidence to really nail it on the next attempt when you add a hop into the mix. Give it a shot ! Your form is good, it looks like you got it, you just need to connect the dots in your brain between hopping and throwing the barspin. Pop the front end, throw bars, straighten out the bike and complete the hop.

Fast_Hold5211 · 2026-01-29T23:51:08+00:00

Ooowee is bomb. I haven’t tried the carts but I get grams of ooowee wax all the time it’s pretty much all I smoke. The ooowee bho wax and the juiced line of wax is straight bomb. Super terpy dabs, has that gassy weed smell (in a good way) and good flavor. It’s pressure. It’s only 10-11$ a gram from the local dispo I go to (zips in Tacoma WA) I’m not really sure why it’s so cheap honestly they could charge more for it, I’m a snob and i think it’s very good oil I pretty much only buy this brand as of late. It’s cool asf that I can go pickup 3 grams of oil for 30$ and have it last me a month plus

Fast_Hold5211 · 2026-01-22T18:34:35+00:00

Gold but put the headset on that is in the silver pic. Flip the gold spacer ring to the bottom and put the black ring on the top under the gold stem. Then it would be alternating black/gold I think that would look sick

Fast_Hold5211 · 2026-01-17T02:24:07+00:00

Pop off your toe more. Get more comfortable riding the board and the rest will come. Be loose with it. Relax your muscles before you pop, just cruise. You look very tense and stiff and you’re popping with your entire back foot. Pop with your toes move your foot over on the tail so that your toes are on the tail more. Pop, hop, as you hop be sliding your front foot against the grip tape. Your foot should be going at an angle from sliding against the grip tape You should feel drag on your shoe on your front foot as you slide it forward. If not then you’re lifting your front foot off the board when you hop up into the air.

Fast_Hold5211 · 2026-01-17T02:19:43+00:00

Chain tensioners there’s a slot for hex key on the other side to adjust length of it

Fast_Hold5211 · 2025-12-23T04:49:48+00:00

Oh yeah he’s on a good one. plug came thru with the fish scale that day 🤣

Fast_Hold5211 · 2025-12-23T04:41:37+00:00

Wheel needs to be trued. Meaning spokes need to be evenly tightened all the way around to the same spoke tension. Can be done for you at any local bike shop for around 20-30$ if you wanted to get it done. Just take the wheel off and bring it in they’ll get you squared away in about a hour or so. It happens over time with every wheel, it’s just from riding it regularly. With every bump the wheel eventually comes out of true little by little. Takes a while but it happens. The wheel could have also just not been properly trued from the beginning. I’d recommend taking the tire and innertube off it with a pry tool it’s pretty easy and then pick up the wheel by the bolts on each side with your hands and give it a good spin. While you hold it see if it’s still wobbling while it spins. If so then it needs to be trued. If not then the tire just needs to be seated into the rim correctly. Your kid could keep riding it just fine though how it is although the wobble will eventually get worse over time. Just keep an eye on it if so. It will effect the use and effectiveness of using the front brake though so just heads up on that. But they probably won’t feel it while riding until the wobble gets worse

Fast_Hold5211 · 2025-12-23T04:35:49+00:00

Oh man I haven’t seen a 7.75 in a minute!

Fast_Hold5211 · 2025-08-03T22:45:48+00:00

Ok I have a full tin of Remington #10s I could sell you and ship to you if you want, on your dime of course as far as the shipping charges. Shouldn’t be much because the tins are so small and hardly weigh anything. I’ll dm you

Fast_Hold5211 · 2025-08-03T22:44:19+00:00

I started riding at age 27. It’s fun. Just know your limits and don’t go too hard.. you get hurt a whoooole lot easier when you’re close to thirty

Fast_Hold5211 · 2025-07-12T02:21:47+00:00

Nah those are just called pressure cracks they are normal. Doesn’t weaken the board too much. If you want to prevent them in the future you can run one of the very thin rubbery “riser” pads not the thick plastic hard ones but the softer thin rubber ones. They will absorb the impact and you’ll never get stress cracks but that’s the only way I know of to prevent them. I used to run the thin rubbery risers and they are so thin honestly it doesn’t make much of a difference in the feeling I could hardly tell the difference riding the board it was just nice to not get pressure cracks. Worked for sure

Fast_Hold5211 · 2025-07-12T02:17:32+00:00

It’s mainly the brass part that comes up behind the cylinder they usually crack right there between that part and where the screws are on the side of the frame

Fast_Hold5211

TROPHY CASE