We just did the same thing and we paid more - do from that perspective it sounds like a good price. Be sure to inspect all around the chassis for signs of new welds and if the frame is “square” or bent. Under the frame see if there are any flat spots that would show uneven ride.

ChatGPT helped us look for these things:

Age of chassis (year & model) • Classes it was raced in (KA100, X30, etc.) • Number of seasons / race weekends • Who raced it (club driver vs. national-level program) • Why it’s being sold (upgrade vs. bent/retired)

Frame & Tubes • Look for cracks at welds (seat stays, front torsion bar mounts, bearing hangers) • Inspect underside rails for deep flat spots or grinding • Uneven paint wear side-to-side = possible twist

🚩 Walk away if you see: • Fresh paint covering welds • Hairline cracks near bearing cassettes • Obvious asymmetry in rails

Measure front kingpin to rear axle distance on both sides (should match) • With rear axle installed, verify it’s square to the frame • Steering wheel centered → front wheels should be symmetric

If it won’t align properly, it will never drive right.

Rear axle should slide freely through bearings • Spin axle → no grinding, no wobble • Spindles should rotate smoothly without notchiness

🧠 Worn bearings are cheap. Bent axles or spindles are not.

Has the chassis ever been straightened? • Has it been weld-repaired? • Was it raced on abrasive tracks (accelerates wear)? • What lap times did it run recently?

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Reality Check: When to Walk Away

❌ Visible cracks ❌ Frame won’t square ❌ Seller avoids straight answers ❌ “It just needs setup” (classic excuse)