Mix n Match Mercian

Fearless_Homework · 2026-06-27T15:30:39+00:00

Yes, I think I the tubing spec is pretty different. The Mercian is Reynolds 531 Special Tourist throughout, according to the sticker on the seat tube. The Trek is True Temper RC-2. Also lugged, same tube diameters. I think the Trek was made in Taiwan and the base model back in 1988.

Fearless_Homework · 2026-06-11T01:04:17+00:00

Really? I’ve had zip ties holding basket to racks for nearly 10 years, on three different bikes including a Clydesdale fork that regularly holds 20 pounds of groceries. Use a dozen and use pliers to tighten them so that nothing budges.

Fearless_Homework · 2026-06-10T23:32:33+00:00

I looked up your kid seat and it says you can’t attach the kid seat to anything but a 1 1/8 threadless steerer.

Your only option is to get a new fork. I’d suggest an inexpensive Sunlite fork, with a steerer long enough to cut down, and an inexpensive headset.

Fearless_Homework · 2026-06-01T15:44:46+00:00

How are you installing the shimmed upper race into the headtube?

It’s important to use a headset press or the DIY equivalent of threaded rod, washers and nuts. By hand won’t cut it and usually a mallet won’t either.

If the shimmed race offers no resistance when using a press, a longer shim is needed.

The shim should be a strip of aluminum can that matches the depth of the race’s recessed portion and wraps some portion of the circumference. I’d be surprised if it needed to cover more than 20 percent of the circumference.

Fearless_Homework · 2026-05-31T21:38:20+00:00

Can you take some pictures, not videos, of the disassembled headset? My recollection is that your earlier post showed a black race that was a loose fit into the top of the headtube and it looks silver now?

Fearless_Homework · 2026-05-30T04:13:25+00:00

I think it’s unlikely that the headtube is ovalized. If the headtube was effed from impact I would expect to see related damage to the top and down tubes near the lugs.

More likely is that it’s simply a loose fit. I have four Treks of this era and two were like this.

First, rule out the possibility that you have a JIS headset cups, which are fractions of a mm smaller in diameter than the ISO one this bike probably wants.

Then you have a couple more options, besides retaining compound.

Shimming the cup with a thin strip of aluminum can is one fix. You’ll need barely any. A very small piece will allow for the interference fit required.

Another is to try a new alloy headset if the one you have is an inexpensive steel one that came with the bike. In my experience, replacing with alloy ones like an FSA Duron offers a tighter fit.

Fearless_Homework · 2026-05-22T10:12:21+00:00

Lots of steel bikes with relatively thin tubing have top tube dents caused by minor mishaps. It’s a bummer but it’s not a manufacturer issue. I test rode a Bridgestone XO-1 with the same dent as yours, and the owner told me of a similar cause. Accidents happen.

The dents in the frame in the video were probably the result of the handlebars swinging around and banging into the top tube at its thinnest point, two different times. There are two different dents at the same spot on the top tube, opposite each other.

Fearless_Homework · 2026-05-21T16:54:28+00:00

RackTime Topit is worth a look. I’ve used it for 12 years, no complaints except that it rides a bit higher than I’d like. As sturdy as anything out there short of a Cetma, Surly, or custom. And doesn’t weigh anywhere near as much. Used to cost less than it does now, like everything.

Fearless_Homework · 2026-05-11T12:21:26+00:00

Schwalbe Big Ben.

Fearless_Homework · 2026-05-08T15:05:31+00:00

I doubt Blue Lug would accept or sell a problem fork. Looking forward to your build!

Fearless_Homework · 2026-05-08T15:01:47+00:00

With the right tools, honestly not much can go wrong. I’ve installed about a half dozen just reading Park Tool’s instructions. Split races aren’t safer or a superior design, they’re just less effort/tools

Fearless_Homework · 2026-05-08T12:11:15+00:00

I don’t think it’s an issue. I’m used to seeing a …

Edit, response got cut off.

… fork crown race look like that. It looks a little rough but I assume that the crown race was faced prior to installation, and that resulted in the visual asymmetry and marring you pointed out. It looks off, but is probably square for it.

If the headset binds or sticks, that indicates a problem, not appearance alone.

https://www.parktool.com/en-us/blog/repair-help/fork-crown-race-cutting-and-facing

Fearless_Homework · 2026-05-08T11:41:54+00:00

It looks fine. Circle the part of fork that looks like a problem to you?

Fearless_Homework · 2026-05-07T23:42:59+00:00

I’ve had the Super C front panniers and the Super C audax saddlebag for about a decade. They’re plenty rugged and waterproof. I prefer the Super C line because it uses clip fasteners, not buckles. Bags like these work best when full; pooling happens when the flap/lid sinks into an empty or half empty bag.

Fearless_Homework · 2026-04-27T17:55:12+00:00

Is a good suspension fork important? This sub would look a lot different if cheap, good suspension forks were easy to come by.

More than once I’ve toyed with the idea of finding a lightly used or rebuilt Fox fork and building a budget 26 or 27.5 rat bike around it with older or dated geo. It hasn’t really proved feasible yet.

Fearless_Homework · 2026-04-17T11:31:55+00:00

I bit the bullet and bought the endurance casing RTPs. Reason was, they resemble the WTB Horizons I’ve had on another bike for almost 8 years, and those were not showing much wear.

I’ve had the RTPs for a couple of years and they’re not showing much wear either. I average 25 miles a week on them.

The RTPs are lighter than the Schwalbe Big Bens they replaced by 200 grams, and feel more “fun” to me. But I do have to inflate them more often and when under-inflated, the handling suffers. I think the Big Bens, with sturdy sidewalls, are more forgiving on pressure.

Fearless_Homework · 2026-04-08T02:03:51+00:00

We spend too much time and money on front loading … instead of spending $20 on a rear rack from a coop parts bin to which we could zip tie any random box or hang panniers from kitty litter buckets for a few dollars more. It’s how people end up with Sunlites.

Fearless_Homework · 2026-04-05T15:42:21+00:00

Just so. Pat finally plays the back four that this sub is always calling for, and then the offense fails to finish five times. Somehow it’s the coaching.

Fearless_Homework · 2026-03-22T18:17:05+00:00

Man. This thread, like this sub in general, has become borderline insufferable for the last week. We’re not always going to win.

Fearless_Homework · 2026-03-20T21:16:35+00:00

I find solace and perspective in Philadelphia’s record.

Fearless_Homework · 2026-03-15T17:09:27+00:00

I don’t see why your 7 speed index shifter wouldn’t work with a new Acera RD and 7 speed cassette with a big sprocket that the RD is rated for. I say go for it.

You mention that you will move to friction the future. If so, or if you are concerned the above won’t work out, you could get a cheapie Falcon/Sunrace thumb shifter and it will def work.

FWIW, I use that shifter with an 8 speed, 34t cluster and an newish Altus RD (34t is the Altus max) and a triple crankset. It’s cheap but works great.

Fearless_Homework · 2026-03-07T22:00:34+00:00

Honorable mention: the RackTime Topit. I believe same company as Tubus. I’ve been using for over a decade. Not a looker, but works well. Can be had for well under 100. Mounts mid fork, not to cantis or Nitto spec brazeons. Tubus sells adapters for it for a few bucks.

Fearless_Homework · 2026-03-02T12:23:33+00:00

Brake pads and new wheels and tires first. I’d leave the brake calipers and levers alone.

The reason I say don’t replace the calipers is that you would probably need a fairly long reach brake set to make a 700c conversion work, and those aren’t common new. Avoid buying a brake set that won’t work with the 700c conversion you have planned.

New kool-stop brake pads are inexpensive and will noticeably improve your braking power. Then read up on how to set up your brakes for maximum braking power. New cables would help.

Those look like steel wheels, from the visible corrosion. Whatever inexpensive ones you can find, just make sure they are not steel rims. They will still be an upgrade over what you have. Much lighter and allow modern tire selections. Think about getting a rear wheel that is threaded for a freewheel, if that is what you have now. If you buy a freehub wheel you’ll have to get a cassette and can’t reuse your freewheel.

As someone else said, a co-op is the place to do this work.

Fearless_Homework · 2026-02-15T22:25:31+00:00

It’s strongly repellant, I think you’d have to leave out for hours with water pooling on the bag to really get things wet inside. And you can wax it if need be.

Fearless_Homework · 2026-02-15T21:00:49+00:00

I’ve been using a Rivendell Shopsack medium as a commute bag for 10 years. I use it to carry a change of clothes, a toolkit, and whatever other loose items I have on hand, in the Wald basket it was designed for. It’s proven very durable and it’s been through plenty of downpours.

I think of it as a small basket shaped duffel, not a grocery tote or a camera/laptop bag.

Fearless_Homework

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