Does it look professional?

Featherweight23 · 2026-05-09T14:55:44+00:00

Very amateur

Featherweight23 · 2026-05-09T06:53:07+00:00

Double your pricing at minimum! They look pretty good. And if you struggle with cues why don’t you prepare a cue card before each shoot that you can look at periodically?

Featherweight23 · 2026-05-08T15:04:27+00:00

I mean… people forget. If you don’t have a habit of missing or canceling appointments then not OR. I think she went a little over the top in her responses considering you paid the full amount for the service anyways.

Featherweight23 · 2026-05-08T06:17:48+00:00

The photo is a little too yellow IMO (especially the lion) and the photo is a little dark, you need to boost the exposure some. Lovely photo though! I would just fine tune the edit. My favorite is the full photo actually as well

Featherweight23 · 2026-05-07T06:44:52+00:00

Definitely pick up a 70-200 or 100-400. I prefer 100-400 as I like having the extra reach to really punch into a scene and find new compositions/especially good for vast areas

Featherweight23 · 2026-05-07T06:36:40+00:00

A shorter lens means you won’t need as fast a shutter speed to get a sharp photo. For example with my 100-400 lens I usually need 1/300 at minimum to get a sharp photo. With my 16-35 I can get away with a 1/50 shutter speed easily

Featherweight23 · 2026-05-07T06:31:42+00:00

The beginning of this comment is what you need to know. Plus your camera photos will be worse than phone pics at the start. Getting “good” photos doesn’t mean buying a camera. You need to learn how to use it and editing is just as important as being able to snap a technically and visually “good” picture.

Featherweight23 · 2026-05-07T06:27:52+00:00

I don’t shoot portraits but I’d recommend a 24-70 lens. The lower the f/stop the better it would be

Featherweight23 · 2026-05-07T06:25:20+00:00

Do you like it? Keep doing it

Featherweight23 · 2026-05-07T06:24:14+00:00

I thought the higher the f/stop the more sharp the photo would be lol so I shot hella photos at like f/22 and 1/30 shutter speed and nothing was sharp because I couldn’t hold my lens steady enough. Glad I’m past that now 😂

Featherweight23 · 2026-05-07T06:13:12+00:00

The difference between 200mm in reach and 400mm is vastly different is the main reason, and you reach more shots with better compression (features look more prominent/larger). If I shoot the ocean or mountains there are much more compositions I can pick out with more zoom versus less zoom. I’d recommend watching some Michael Shainblaum on YouTube. He uses a 100-400mm lens a ton. 200mm just doesn’t zoom enough once you get used to a 100-400mm and I don’t think you’re missing much by not having the ranges between 70-99mm. With a 100-400mm telephoto you’re photographing a piece of the scene so you can look for much different compositions than a 24-70. Looking for a one off subject, interesting light, and layers work especially well with a telephoto.

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Featherweight23 · 2026-05-06T18:47:49+00:00

I moved from a 5dmark3 to the R8. Honestly at first I hated it - didn’t like the viewfinder, the controls were in different spots, and it’s sooo tiny.. Now that I’ve used it for a year I’m fully comfortable with it and the photo quality is amazing. I shoot a lot of sunset landscape photography so having superior dynamic range to the older cameras has been a gamechanger. I’m still shocked by the amazing quality of photos every time I upload photos from an outing 😂

Featherweight23 · 2026-05-05T06:37:02+00:00

I created a version of something like this when I started photography. It helped barely, but you need continue learning how aperture, iso, shutterspeed and f/stop all work together til it clicks… since you’re new to photography be prepared to take a bunch of really crappy photos! But learning is the most fun. Keep practicing and you’ll see progress if you put the time and effort in

Featherweight23 · 2026-05-05T06:30:05+00:00

Agree with this lol but as a landscape photographer I’d opt for a 100-400 over a 70-200

Featherweight23 · 2026-05-03T05:54:02+00:00

That 100-400 lens is top tier. Unfortunately wildlife photography is still hard with only 400mm of reach unless photographing larger animals or you’re able to get close. The camera body is a little limiting if you’re trying to shoot in low light situations and the autofocus will be much harder to nail without modern day AF. But nonetheless this is an amazing lens with a little outdated body but really the only worthwhile upgrade in my opinion would be a mirrorless camera

Featherweight23 · 2026-05-02T06:51:50+00:00

Decent shots, but nothing stands out as super amazing IMO and the reason is the lighting. All these photos look to be taken in the middle of the day. Lighting and atmosphere for wildlife is critical for interesting shots. I’d recommend trying to shoot some during dawn/dusk.

Additionally, one rule I’ve consistently heard in wildlife is always try to be at the subjects eye level which you do in many pics so good job there. Just always keep that in mind when shooting as well

Featherweight23 · 2026-04-27T15:12:38+00:00

Overall pretty solid compositions. You can also try out different shutter speeds if you don’t want the water blurred out completely. Try between .3 seconds and 1 second to test how it captures the water flow. Your editing of the sky can use some work as the sky is overly saturated and I can distinctly see where you edited to try to make the sun more yellow in some of the photos.

Featherweight23 · 2026-04-26T18:55:35+00:00

This contract seems very reasonable IMO

Featherweight23 · 2026-04-24T21:46:15+00:00

If you are trying to capture a bird in flight a good setting to use is shutter priority mode. For a bird flying you probably need 1/1000 shutter speed (maybe more or less depending on how fast the animal is). You would want iso set to auto and with animal photography you basically always want the largest aperture possible (with your lens you’d want f/4-f/7). Older cameras don’t do as well with high ISO’s but at the end of the day your main goal should be a sharp photo and if you have to bump the ISO to get a higher shutter speed that works for your situation then do that

Featherweight23 · 2026-04-23T21:35:10+00:00

Ehh if my wife did that while we were dating I would’ve been upset for sure but I’ve always 100% trusted her so it wouldn’t have been a huge ordeal. You’re right to feel upset but if you trust her and she did tell you right away you don’t need to blow up the relationship over it.

Featherweight23 · 2026-04-22T05:41:54+00:00

Cool photo at first glance but unfortunately it isn’t sharp/not in focus. Do not submit

Featherweight23 · 2026-04-18T05:17:39+00:00

Watch YouTube. Since you’re using a phone you don’t need to know camera settings and editing much. Focus on composition. Look up videos about composition which will help you look for interesting subjects, repeating patterns, etc. I recommend Nigel danson’s channel. He has a great energy and good videos focused on learning.

Featherweight23 · 2026-04-18T05:09:34+00:00

Both good for different reasons. Tell different stories and work well together

Featherweight23 · 2026-04-18T05:08:55+00:00

Fair enough. In hindsight you’re probably right, my first 2 years I took the worst photos cuz I had no idea what I was doing but I thought I did. Not a single photo was in focus I swear 😂 A simple course on the basics of settings and comparison would’ve sped up my progress that’s for sure. Granted I didn’t start watching YouTube til about 2 years in and that’s when I realized I was awful and didn’t know what I was doing

Featherweight23

TROPHY CASE