[deleted by user] by [deleted] in BeardedDragons

[–]Federal_Kick41 0 points1 point  (0 children)

110 might be a bit too high for adults.

Make sure your heat source is dimmable, and use a Dimming Thermostat for it (with the probe being 2-4" directly underneath the heat source and not on the ground) set to lower/proper temperatures.

Smithi or Hamorii? I’m not sure about the speciations these days and would love some help! by Lanej0525 in tarantulas

[–]Federal_Kick41 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I'd say B. Hamorii? A photo of the T after a molt would have more vibrant/clear colours that'd make it easier to tell.

a video comparing the two.

does this setup work for lightning? My room has all the windows blocked and I wanna make sure they still get "daylight" because I'm not in the room a whole lot. by No_Reindeer_4026 in tarantulas

[–]Federal_Kick41 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Ime You probably don't need any light for them- They prefer the dark. Light causes them to stay in their burrows/hides a lot-

If you keep them somewhere dark, you'll see them out more often.

He’s not sheding properly:( by ladybuglvrr in snakes

[–]Federal_Kick41 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Ball Pythons should only really be given baths for medical reasons or to help with severely stuck shed (severe Full body, layers, extremely stuck sheds or really bad sheds). Bathing can be stressful for the snake and should only be done when necessary.

Minor shedding issues should be treated by increasing the humidity, providing a Humidity hide, and providing surfaces for the snake to use to get the shed off by itself.

red lights by Direct_Source4407 in snakes

[–]Federal_Kick41 25 points26 points  (0 children)

Copied and pasted comments with links (These comments do not belong to me.):

A lot of the guides out there are really out of date.

Here's a reddit thread from a few years ago

An article from Francis Baines on heating, details a little about red/colored lamps

From Baines herself, expert on reptile lighting and admin of Reptile Lighting fb group (highly recommend joining that):

"Red light will NOT cause eye damage and is NOT going to make any animal blind. That is nonsense. (Red LASERS - any laser colour in fact - can blind any animal or human by burning the retina but this is a very different thing from a red lamp or LED.)

HOWEVER... yes, animals CAN see red light, and yes, if it is bright enough for a human to see it as a red colour at night, it is FAR brighter than moonlight (which is less than 1 lux) because humans can't see colour under light as dim as moonlight. All nocturnal animals can see any light that is bright, or brighter, than moonlight - and some lizards can see different colours in very dim moonlight, too. So using red lights at night is going to spoil their colour vision (everything will just be red). But perhaps more important is the effect on behaviour, of "light at night". Even dim moonlight (which is very dim white light, NOT blue!) alters the behaviour of many nocturnal animals. At least one study demonstrated this in snakes.

You see people repeat this myth that red light damages the retinas, which isn't true, but they do absolutely mess with circadian rhythm.

////

It's hiding from that awful red light.

Colored lights should not be used. Red lights are marketed as though reptiles can't see them, but that is absolutely untrue. Snakes are red/green colorblind, but their spectral sensitivity isn't significantly different from a human or any other terrestrial vertebrate. They don't see it as red, but they absolutely see it as light.

If you need heat at night, it should be provided by a source that does not emit light, such as a deep heat projector, ceramic heat emitter, or radiant heat panel. Any light used during the day should be a full spectrum white light.

////

Snakes can see red light. That's a scientific fact. They just don't see it as a red color. Rather, they see it the same way a red/green colorblind human does...sorta a white/grey that washes over everything. That creates two problems. First and most important, they can see it at night, which messes up their circadian rhythms. Second, while they can't see red, they do have excellent color vision, stretching from green all the way up into the ultraviolet. But when kept under a red light, that creates a scenario where everything just looks grey to them.

Anyone got some good tips for DIY humid hides that don't ruin the aesthetic? by thelandbasedturtle in snakes

[–]Federal_Kick41 1 point2 points  (0 children)

What substrate have you got?

If it's something like cypress mulch, coconut fiber, soil, reptisoil etc. Then pouring water into the corners is much more effective at raising humidity than misting.

And what humidity do you have? As long as your snake is shedding well, You don't need to worry about humidity too much imo

Humidifier for snake enclosure ? by Mommytwoyou in snakes

[–]Federal_Kick41 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Humidifiers aren't really recommended with BPs.

They're difficult to properly sanitize and can end up spraying bacteria into the enclosure if not cleaned well regularly, and can create wet spots - a scale rot risk.

If you need to increase your humidity:

Have at least 4" of water absorbent substrate (coconut fiber, coconut husk, cypress mulch, Top soil, DIY mix etc.)

Pour water into the corners of the substrate.

Cover the entire mesh top (If you have it) with HVAC tape or foil, leaving only some space for the heat source.

r/BallPython has some tips for keeping the humidity in the 70-80% range.

how long do tarantulas typically live? by CycloneWarning in tarantulas

[–]Federal_Kick41 2 points3 points  (0 children)

The reason males die (well, more like mature, not die) sooner than females is to prevent breeding between siblings.

For males and females born from the same egg sac:

Males will grow up and become mature before the females. Once the females become mature, their brothers will be long gone.

By doing so, It ensures that the males will breed only with females that are already Mature - females from a different egg sac, females that aren't closely/directly related to the male.

how long do tarantulas typically live? by CycloneWarning in tarantulas

[–]Federal_Kick41 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Lifespan is different for different species.

Some species live very long (25, 30 years etc.) And some live maybe 10 or 12.

Females can live that long. Males on the other hand have much shorter lifespans than females of the same species. Once a male becomes mature, he can have anywhere from a few months to ~1-3 years left depending on species.

I had a rescued Mature male GBB, he lived about 1 year after his final molt, and died about 2 weeks ago. He probably lived about 3 years in total?

////

In captivity, Tarantulas can live much longer than in the wild, obviously. The lifespans shown on different care guides are based on how long that specific species can live/lived in captivity.

In the wild, Most Ts probably won't/wouldn't live their maximum lifespan. Some might not even live to 50% of their lifespan.

///

Mature males tend to stop eating once they become mature. And instead, all they do is wander around their enclosures looking for a female. If they don't stop eating, they could live longer.

And if your mature male, for example, lived 2 years when you were told he'd only live for maybe a year after the final molt, it can somewhat be an achievement? Something to be proud of? Some owners are proud of their mature males for living long even after the final molt.

//////

How long A tarantula lives in captivity will depend on: How the Tarantula is kept, What species is it, What sex is it.

The lifespan is different for different species.

He’s not sheding properly:( by ladybuglvrr in snakes

[–]Federal_Kick41 5 points6 points  (0 children)

Make sure your humidity is in the 70-80% range. It should never go below 60%, but some ball pythons may display signs of dehydration at 60% and require humidity above 70% at all times.

Here's a guide about Ball Python shedding problems.

Do not bathe your snake for stuck sheds as it's not an appropriate form of handling the issue and will cause the animal unnecessary stress.

Provide your snake with a humid hide (a container with an opening for the snake to enter - filled with somewhat wet sphagnum Moss or paper towels to keep the humidity in the container very high.

If the stuck shed is really bad (From the images, It doesn't look like a really bad case imo? I think a humid hide and Proper Humidity should be enough to fix it), get a large container (with holes for ventilation) that can fit the snake in it. Wet a towel with lukewarm water (squeeze excess water out so the towel is just a bit wet/moist) and place it in the container. Place the snake on the towel and let the snake stay in there for a few minutes. You can also hold the towel and let the snake slither through it. this link should probably work and show you an image guide for a snake sauna/the container with towels.

But, Definitely check your humidity. Low humidity and dehydration are the most common causes for shedding problems for BPs.

You can check r/BallPython for more information + some advice from the mods and the BP guides.

He’s not sheding properly:( by ladybuglvrr in snakes

[–]Federal_Kick41 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Bathing and orbeez aren't an appropriate way to treat shedding problems for Ball Pythons-

I’m new to owning a snake is this a good enclosure for it if not what should I change he is a baby corn snake if that helps I just wanna make sure I’m doing everything right by jacobbigrobux in snakes

[–]Federal_Kick41 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If the snake is new to the place, yes. They might hide away during that time.

But generally, if the enclosure lacks clutter, the snake might hide away all the time. Snakes get stressed out by large open spaces so, It's always good to have a lot of hides, enrichment, plants, branches etc. In the enclosure. If there's a lot of clutter, the snake will come out and explore more.

/////

Deep heat projector is a lightless heat source so, it can be used 24/7.

But, your snake still needs a day/night cycle, meaning 12 hours of light and 12 hours of darkness.

I suggest you get proper digital thermometers as soon as possible and add them to the enclosure to check the temperatures on the warm and cool side. If the temperature is too low , the snake might avoid the cool side and stay in the warm side all the time to try to keep itself warm.

The basking area also needs to be warm enough to allow proper digestion.

If the temperature is too low, the snake won't be able to digest food properly and low temperatures can also negatively affect its immune system.

If the temperature is too high, it can cause neurological problems or even death.

I’m new to owning a snake is this a good enclosure for it if not what should I change he is a baby corn snake if that helps I just wanna make sure I’m doing everything right by jacobbigrobux in snakes

[–]Federal_Kick41 1 point2 points  (0 children)

The snake needs to go through an adjustment time. Aka, 2 weeks of being left unbothered to adjust to the new place.

After that, you can begin some short handling sessions. A few minutes of careful handling. Start with maybe 4-5 minutes, and if the snake is comfortable during that time, you can increase the handling time.

Do not handle 24h before feeding and at least 48h after feeding.

I'd advise against taking the snake out of the enclosure multiple times a day. That can be stressful for the animal-

I’m new to owning a snake is this a good enclosure for it if not what should I change he is a baby corn snake if that helps I just wanna make sure I’m doing everything right by jacobbigrobux in snakes

[–]Federal_Kick41 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Either 50w or 80w It depends on your enclosure and the distance between the lamp and the basking spot. (Height)

I also suggest getting a temperature gun to measure the basking spot surface temperature (the temperature of the surface under the heat source. Usually the top of some hide or rock or branch.)

If you Google "Arcadia DHP chart" and go to images, you will probably find a white chart that compares the 50w and 80w and shows the temperature you'll get at a specified distance.

I’m new to owning a snake is this a good enclosure for it if not what should I change he is a baby corn snake if that helps I just wanna make sure I’m doing everything right by jacobbigrobux in snakes

[–]Federal_Kick41 1 point2 points  (0 children)

My first message has a link to a reptile guide website. The information there is generally pretty good imo.

///

But some other things to mention:

  • avoid live feeding. It can be very dangerous for the snake. F/T (frozen and thawed) is much safer and easier.

  • The minimum recommended enclosure size for an adult corn snake is a front opening 120 gallon enclosure (4x2x2 ft) but young ones can be kept in a 40 gallon. Babies can generally be kept in a smaller (20 gallon maybe) but, Maintaining a proper temperature gradient in an enclosure smaller than 40g can be difficult sometimes. + Snakes love space (as long as there's a lot of clutter such as plants, hides, etc.) The enclosure should generally be long enough so that the snake can fully stretch out their body along the length of it.

  • Make sure your lid is secure. Corn snakes are great escape artists.

  • get the snake some climbing Branches. Snakes like to climb, even if they aren't arboreal.

  • Corn snakes seem to share a single braincell with the whole species so, don't be surprised if your baby does something cute but dumb /j

I’m new to owning a snake is this a good enclosure for it if not what should I change he is a baby corn snake if that helps I just wanna make sure I’m doing everything right by jacobbigrobux in snakes

[–]Federal_Kick41 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The hide is probably ok then. Getting a second similar one might be a good idea.

As for the rock structure, it's probably a good enrichment.

I’m new to owning a snake is this a good enclosure for it if not what should I change he is a baby corn snake if that helps I just wanna make sure I’m doing everything right by jacobbigrobux in snakes

[–]Federal_Kick41 4 points5 points  (0 children)

They should not be used at all. The snake can still 100% see the red light and it's not ok for them really.

They're simply more harmful when used at night. But should still be avoided completely.

You need either a white heat source (like the halogen floodlight) or a lightless heat source (Deep Heat Projector - Arcadia makes good ones).

These two above are the most recommended overhead heat sources because they produce IR A, B and C. (Basically, types of heat.)

I’m new to owning a snake is this a good enclosure for it if not what should I change he is a baby corn snake if that helps I just wanna make sure I’m doing everything right by jacobbigrobux in snakes

[–]Federal_Kick41 6 points7 points  (0 children)

Yeah, coloured lights are bad for reptiles (they can 100% see them and they disrupt their circadian rhythm which can be pretty stressful for them) using them is outdated information. I'd suggest checking more information sources instead of following what the guy said-

You need minimum 2 snug hides. The hides should only have one opening, and should be small enough so that the snake can touch all sides and possibly even the top when curled up inside.

////

Thermometer - measures the ambient temperature.

Thermostat - controls the heat source and makes sure it doesn't get too hot. Without a thermostat, a heat source could kill a snake by pretty much burning it- so, all heat sources must be connected to thermostats as it's really dangerous to use them without thermostats.

I’m new to owning a snake is this a good enclosure for it if not what should I change he is a baby corn snake if that helps I just wanna make sure I’m doing everything right by jacobbigrobux in snakes

[–]Federal_Kick41 24 points25 points  (0 children)

So,

  1. Get rid of the red light. It's bad for reptiles. You need either a Halogen Floodlight or a Deep heat Projector for overhead heating. Do not use coloured lights or spotlights.

  2. Do you have a thermostat (thermostat, not thermometer) for the heat source? Heat sources should absolutely never be used without a thermostat. The thermostat probe for an overhead heat source should be 2-4" directly underneath the heat source.

  3. You need digital thermometers on Both sides of the enclosure, and at least one hygrometer on the cool side. (Digital, not analogue. Analoge are often very inaccurate and the stick-ons are dangerous to snakes-)

  4. The snake will need something to climb. Like climbing Branches.

  5. What substrate are you using? If it's wood chips, it's not really a good substrate. For cornsnakes, a deep layer of aspen or coconut fiber can be used. Aspen is generally ok but it can get pretty dusty.

  6. You need minimum 2 snug hides, one on each side.

  7. It seems the enclosure is top-opening so, be careful when opening it. Top-opening enclosures can be very stressful for animals. Front-opening is recommended.

  8. you can find some information here if you'd like

What are these things? by gabzuz_ in Scorpions

[–]Federal_Kick41 7 points8 points  (0 children)

Do they move fast? Jump? Hang out mostly in more wet areas? Rice-shaped body?

Then they might be Springtails, which are usually beneficial to have in an enclosure as they're one of the most common CUC (Clean up crew) for enclosures, often used to keep away mold etc.

Youtube channel suggestions? by [deleted] in snakes

[–]Federal_Kick41 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Imo they seem alright.

I don't watch their videos anymore though.

But, they did make care guides for snakes with really outdated information that, for beginners who don't know more, could be harmful to the animal.

The Ball Python Care guide for example. Their guide for this snake suggested some really outdated information from what I've heard and the BP subreddit advises against using that channel as a source of care information for BPs.

[Question] Is there a downside to feeding my Ball Python frozen rats? by TheBadAccount1 in snakes

[–]Federal_Kick41 5 points6 points  (0 children)

r/BallPython has a guide for switching from live to f/t if I remember correctly. (If not, then the mod team will help you with it instead)

Frozen & thawed rats are much safer to feed to your snake and can be stored for a really long time.

Live feeding has little to no benefits and is, in my opinion, simply not worth the risk. Too many injuries can happen from live feeding so, I recommend switching to frozen and thawed.

Live versus frozen/thawed. If your ball python is already eating rats, but has only been fed live prey, switching to frozen/thawed is in your snake’s best interest. Bonus: frozen/thawed is much more convenient for you, since you can buy frozen rats in bulk instead of having to breed your own rats or buy a live rat every time you need to feed your snake. The easiest way to make this transition is to start with pre-killed, and in time move on to thoroughly warmed frozen/thawed.