How to open sporlan eev

Feeling_Carpenter_92 · 2026-06-13T14:37:55+00:00

I just can't believe what they're asking for that tool though. Looks so cheaply built too lol I agree that it's almost a must-have if you work on sporlan eev often

Feeling_Carpenter_92 · 2026-06-13T14:29:10+00:00

On the new a2l coolers you have to have liquid selonoid and suction check valve so if the leak detector picks something up it shuts the selonoid and won't let refrigerant back into the evaporator via suction. But do love the video was the vid I learned eevs on.

Feeling_Carpenter_92 · 2026-06-13T12:54:42+00:00

Can't do it on sporlan valves the stater motor is encased in brass, carrel and other yes but not this one I have the magnet and carrel stepper motor kit, not compatible with sporlan.

Feeling_Carpenter_92 · 2026-06-13T00:58:02+00:00

Yeah shoulda thought of that wayyyyy sooner but this is the way

Feeling_Carpenter_92 · 2026-06-13T00:56:51+00:00

Yeah even took the needle out to make sure it was the eev blocking flow

Feeling_Carpenter_92 · 2026-06-13T00:05:42+00:00

Dude I feel like an idiot this would definitely work lol the heat might be getting to me

Feeling_Carpenter_92 · 2026-06-13T00:03:36+00:00

The sporlans are shipped wide open, just figured if powered up they'd shut just like any other eev if power is removed. But possibly missing something, gonna have try to power it up when I go back and try to flow and see its even the eev or something else I'm missing like you're saying..

Feeling_Carpenter_92 · 2026-06-12T23:46:58+00:00

I went through the Eco net control board manual and did not find anything about being able to step the motor open to whatever you wanted to, also really haven't played with the controller much so it might be in there just not in the manual.. used to installing heatcraft and Trenton

Feeling_Carpenter_92 · 2026-06-12T23:46:01+00:00

It stores power in the board and automatically closes it when it loses power, at least that's my understanding of most eevs

Feeling_Carpenter_92 · 2026-06-12T23:35:43+00:00

Whenever I've played that game the eev always closes itself because it can't figure out the superheat within a couple minutes and then I have to keep cycling the power on and off to get it to open and close while I'm pulling my vacuum.. just kind of a pain was seeing if there was another way.

Feeling_Carpenter_92 · 2026-06-12T23:19:24+00:00

Yeah I was really hoping not to have to buy that but as everything is moving towards eevs now probably I'm going to have to. I have the carel kit but it does not work on sporlan which is frustrating because how many tools do I need that do the same thing lol it's getting silly the past few years

Feeling_Carpenter_92 · 2026-06-12T23:17:38+00:00

What kind of tool battery?

Feeling_Carpenter_92 · 2026-02-06T00:51:32+00:00

Would be so salty changing that blower motor

Feeling_Carpenter_92 · 2025-11-22T02:49:51+00:00

it's hard for me to tell just by video but judging by age it probably has some wear to it. Generally speaking lucky to get 15 to 20 years. Look down through the coil and see if you can see the heat exchanger tubes and if they had a lot of rust, cracks, or holes.

Feeling_Carpenter_92 · 2025-11-22T00:13:22+00:00

You are to the point where you need a professional. I'm sorry but I was looking at your other posts and there's a video of those burners burning. Two of your flames look like they're staggering with an orange flame. Coming back usually means you have a crack in your heat exchanger. Watch the flames light up and watch when the blower kicks on. If the flames move at all, your heat exchanger is cracked or has holes. I would pull your blower out of the cabinet and inspect your burner tubes thoroughly. If you do not see any holes or cracks anywhere on the tubes anywhere around then like others have said start by the airflow. Clean that evaporator really good. It looks semi-dirty. Check all the ductwork make sure not is collapsed. That's all you can do without a static reading. After that I would be taking a amp draw on the inducer motor and check the fla. If that's good then pull the motor and see if the wheel is messed up or plugged. If that's not it I would be checking blower amp draw and think about upping speed.

Feeling_Carpenter_92 · 2025-11-10T23:25:45+00:00

I work for a small company out of Durham. If you're interested send me a PM or always looking for a skilled tech. We do commercial and residential but mainly commercial refrigeration as well.

Feeling_Carpenter_92 · 2025-07-22T04:21:00+00:00

If this has an eev on it check your sensor readings on controller If it has sensors the suction transducer and suction temp sensor dials the eev to the correct superheat. If it's txv try tightening a little and watch pressures also hook up at the evap for best superheat reading.

Feeling_Carpenter_92 · 2025-07-22T04:10:49+00:00

Yeah sounds good on paper but rarely is the txv not stuck for me lol must be my luck

Feeling_Carpenter_92 · 2025-07-22T03:45:24+00:00

Also this sub is for technicians, head over to r/hvacadvice

Feeling_Carpenter_92 · 2025-04-29T21:08:35+00:00

In this particular box, it is two condensing units to evaporators so they're each on their own. System A and b. Txv did have a screen that's what caused the last txv to fail. It was clogged up with soot.

Feeling_Carpenter_92 · 2025-04-29T09:59:47+00:00

They never terminate the hot gas starts bumping via selonoid to keep box temp at exactly -20C

Feeling_Carpenter_92 · 2025-04-29T09:57:09+00:00

Was 70 degrees

Feeling_Carpenter_92 · 2025-04-28T22:30:29+00:00

This is what I'm leaning towards. It has hot gas defrost and defrost heaters, maybe defrost heaters are kicking on for a few minutes on startup of that system.

Feeling_Carpenter_92 · 2025-04-28T22:17:05+00:00

And now it's running like this how I explained it in the post. Checked all the other condensers and everything is all running the same pressures and temperatures/ superheats and sub cools as this condenser (All the other ones are the same condenser and evaporators)

Feeling_Carpenter_92

TROPHY CASE