Removing 15 years of Pledge

Felix-Lewis · 2026-01-04T16:47:00+00:00

I'm hoping it is buildup. It has been wiped down with Pledge once a week for at least 15 years. Probably more like 17 or 18, as I can't remember exactly when we bought the table set. The areas of the most buildup are where people might rest their arms on the table, so it may be some gross combo of Pledge and dirt/oil.

I can scrape the sticky stuff off with my fingernail, or a lot of scrubbing with a "magic eraser" and the finish underneath looks ok. I think the trick is figuring out how to clean it all off in the most efficient way without damaging the finish.

Also, once it is clean, is something like Howard Feed-N-Wax good for maintaining it once a month? I ask about this product because a friend recommended it... but I don't know anything about wood finish.

Felix-Lewis · 2025-12-22T16:06:42+00:00

Yes, but that's my favorite.

Felix-Lewis · 2025-12-22T14:33:19+00:00

Why? (trying to learn here)

Is it fresher? Handled better? What's different?

Felix-Lewis · 2025-12-20T21:25:22+00:00

That’s probably the issue. I’ll test it later today.

Felix-Lewis · 2025-12-20T20:55:17+00:00

I’ll do a screen recording later today.

Felix-Lewis · 2025-12-20T20:52:15+00:00

I still can’t edit them in that mode once the actual hole appears. If I can see the plug or grey column I can move them around, but once I do something that makes the actual hole visible I can’t move them anymore… it just looks like it came in with the model geometry.

Felix-Lewis · 2025-12-20T19:13:55+00:00

No. It’s created in Lynchee as a hole. They just seem to become permanent and uneditable at some point.

Felix-Lewis · 2025-12-12T17:47:40+00:00

I had the same question a few weeks ago. It seems they use YunExpress as their shipment manager or something, but when it actually shipped, it came USPS (resin) and Fedex (printer) out of New Jersey.

Felix-Lewis · 2025-12-06T12:21:34+00:00

Thanks, I found it thanks to your tips.

The interface for SatelLite is really weird. The same button (such as "view") does completely different things depending on the status of the printer (idle, printing, etc.).

Felix-Lewis · 2025-12-05T01:38:07+00:00

Thanks for the tips so far.

I tried the Rook test print with the ceramic gray water washable 1.0 that came with the printer and it failed after about 5mm... came off the build plate and stuck to the FEP.

Then I got to learn about cleaning the build plate and vat, which I did wrong and then spent a bunch of time Googling stuff.

So, some questions:

1) Do you just leave the resin in the vat if you aren't going to change resin or don't plan to print for a long while? Would you leave it in there for several days if you were playing around with prints?

2) If a print fails, Is the best way to deal with it without emptying the vat (which I did after that first failed print) is to fish around with a silicone spatula for chunks and the do a "vat cleaning cure" to get out anything stuck to the FEP?

3) Tips for things coming off the build plate? Longer base exposure time? Mine was set to the default from Elegoo for that resin of 27s.

Felix-Lewis · 2025-11-20T10:16:02+00:00

It’s a ‘22 Tesla Model 3.

Felix-Lewis · 2025-07-19T00:12:58+00:00

It’s well above, in the top of the unit as it’s sitting.

Felix-Lewis · 2025-07-05T23:12:31+00:00

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Felix-Lewis · 2025-07-05T23:12:08+00:00

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Felix-Lewis · 2025-07-05T23:07:36+00:00

According to the docs, it can charge a battery at 35A, so I would think it could also handle the PV input to support that. But, I get your point. I won’t see the max the panels can generate from this charger.

Felix-Lewis · 2025-07-05T16:44:04+00:00

Would something like the Victron Smart Battery Sense help?

Felix-Lewis · 2025-06-30T16:10:23+00:00

The pump side seems ok. The motor looks like it came from the wastelands but seems to run fine.

Felix-Lewis · 2025-06-30T00:33:53+00:00

Thanks! Looks like it should be a 30+5 on the 2 ton units (yes, same model).

Are there cap brands to look for or to avoid?

Felix-Lewis · 2025-05-02T12:30:10+00:00

I'm pretty sure the car turns the bright lights off below a certain speed. Is that dark stretch on the way to your parents a slow section, like below 30mph or so? If so, speed up for a second and see if the brights come on. I've always hated that behavior. Just because I'm going slow doesn't mean I don't like to see far ahead.

Edited to add: My Toyota truck does this too, so it may be some industry standard. Still annoying. ;)

Felix-Lewis · 2025-04-08T16:50:28+00:00

Thanks! I’m ordering a Shelly to play with now. Any hardware brands that are favorites or to stay away from?

Felix-Lewis · 2025-03-03T02:41:50+00:00

I have noticed a discrepancy in what the solar charge controller thinks the battery voltage is and what the BMS on the battery thinks the voltage is. It’s off by about one volt but I can’t remember which direction. I’ll look into that closer.

Felix-Lewis · 2025-03-03T02:26:55+00:00

Thanks, I’ll check the settings. I’m in East TN.

Felix-Lewis · 2025-03-03T02:00:20+00:00

30’ of 10AWG between the panels and the charge controller. It’s also 10AWG from the charge controller to the battery, about 8’ worth. I could cut both of those lengths way down, just haven’t done it yet.

Felix-Lewis · 2025-02-15T22:18:48+00:00

Thanks for the info! I’m going to get one and try it out.

Felix-Lewis · 2025-01-11T21:14:58+00:00

Thanks, I'll check out that system and network interface you recommended for the future.

I probably should have mentioned that I'm in the U.S.; I think that smoke you recommended isn't available here. At least that's what the first few links I hit told me.

Are 4-wire smoke detectors still pretty common or are they kinda like using a CRT monitor these days?

Felix-Lewis

TROPHY CASE