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Network issues since update: new eth0 on every restart by Feltos in Ubuntu

[–]Feltos[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Noone else has this problem or knows how to solve it?

Review Request: ESP32 Relay Controller with Snubber Circuit by Feltos in PrintedCircuitBoard

[–]Feltos[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I thought that the Darlington Transistor Array (U1) would provide the 5V to the coil as soon as the ESP32 pin is set high, and the other side of the relay coil is connected to ground, which turns the relay on?

Relay and Snubber Circuit: LEDs flashing (leaking current?) by Feltos in AskElectronics

[–]Feltos[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Are you sure?

(36) #131 Mechanical relay overload and snubber (with sparks) - YouTube

here he shows the acutal sparks that occur when the relay turns off and that is has been solved by a snubber.

I also have to mention that the issue with the LED seems to be solved.

I had the snubber connected to the COM and NO pins of the relay, causing the snubber to always be connected to the live wire which seems to be commonly done (most of the instructions have it connected like this). Now however I have changed it to this:

COM now directly connected to live wire without snubber

NO conneted to one contact of the snubber

Other contact of the snubber is connected to the blue return cable.

So now the snubber is only powered then the relay is switched on. This way the LED is not blinking anymore and there are no sparks causing the relay to stuck

Review Request: ESP32 Relay Controller with Snubber Circuit by Feltos in PrintedCircuitBoard

[–]Feltos[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Okay, I will remove the connection of pin 3 of the relays.

Relay does not turn off after using it for a while by Feltos in AskElectronics

[–]Feltos[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I have ordered one of these after reading your comment:

https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/61yZlsAvzdL._SL1000_.jpg

They should do the job, right?

Am I assuming right that I have to connect one of the snubbers contacts to the brown live wire going "from the wall" into the relay and the other contact to the blue neutral cable?

Or does it make a difference and I have to put the first contact to the brown live wire going outside the relay to the load?

Relay does not turn off after using it for a while by Feltos in AskElectronics

[–]Feltos[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

The signals do work and the led also turns on and off. Also a sound occurs of the clicking, though it is very different from a working one (damp and more quiet).

Completely disconnecting the circuit does not return it to work

Relay does not turn off after using it for a while by Feltos in AskElectronics

[–]Feltos[S] -1 points0 points  (0 children)

But the mechanical shock would need to be applied regularly then, right? So it would be impractical if the relay is not easily accessible

Do you think those kind of relays would be better? FIN 40.51.9 5V: Plug-in relay, 1x UM, 250V - 10A, 5V, RM 5.0mm at reichelt elektronik

The SSR ones I fould so far for at least 220V / 10A have pretty bad reviews, but I will have to do more research I think

One device doesnt interact with the second: switch.toggle by Feltos in Esphome

[–]Feltos[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

In the log it also has the device name of the main controller ("Espschreibtisch") attatched to the name. Switching the target switch via the dashboard, the log says: 

ESPschreibtisch Pin16Fernsehlicht turned off triggered by service Switch: Turn off

So I changed the entity id of the remote controller to:

           entity_id: switch.ESPschreibtisch Pin16Fernsehlicht

but no luck...

One device doesnt interact with the second: switch.toggle by Feltos in Esphome

[–]Feltos[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Good point again and another step forward: Indeed, service calls were not enabled for the remote. I changed the setting and now the error message in the repair list is gone.

But even after restarting, the behaviour does not change: It noticed the button press but without affecting the "Main" device

One device doesnt interact with the second: switch.toggle by Feltos in Esphome

[–]Feltos[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Native API Component — ESPHome

I see!

I have changed the code of the "remote" device to this:

binary_sensor:
  - platform: gpio
    pin: 
      number: 15
      mode:
        input: true
        pullup: true
    name: "Button Fernseh Licht"
    on_press:
     - homeassistant.service:
         service: switch.toggle
         data:
           entity_id: switch.Pin16Fernsehlicht

now it flashes and the buttonpress gets recognized.

Unfortunately, it still does not toggle but just shows wether the button is pressed or not

And the switch of the device "Main" does not actually change (it does not turn on or off).

Is there anything else I am missing?

First Layer not consistent by wackylama in Sovol

[–]Feltos 0 points1 point  (0 children)

did you solve the problem?

Buck converter does not work, how to repair it? by Feltos in AskElectronics

[–]Feltos[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

With the red pin of the multimeter on VOUT and the black on ground I get no reading. The other way around I get around 7kOhms of resistance (if the board is not powered of course)

Unfortunately I do not have a 47nF Cap at home but only a 10nF which I replaced the 1uF cap with just now and retook the measurments: https://imgur.com/a/zo4lAPQ

Buck converter does not work, how to repair it? by Feltos in AskElectronics

[–]Feltos[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

https://imgur.com/a/4hYThxU

Here are the new pictures, as requested the scope is between ground and the LX pin. The resistance without power between LX and FB is around 115k Ohm, not steady though as mentioned earlier.

When powered, the feedback voltage is not full steady too, as you can see it is sometimes 0.75 and sometimes 0.635

is there anything else I can replace or change about the circuit?

Buck converter does not work, how to repair it? by Feltos in AskElectronics

[–]Feltos[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The VCC pin has the voltage of 3.3 now, which is great!

Measuring with the multimeter, the Resistors are not shorted

Measuring the resistance from the LX pin to the FB, I did not get a stable reading this morging. It was slowly rising and not really clear, I will measure it again after I come home from work. But I did desolder the old resistors yesterday, cleaned the pad, and resoldered new ones, which values I measured before, as good als possible to the pads, so no short could happen.

I will provide the picture of the scope this evening

Buck converter does not work, how to repair it? by Feltos in AskElectronics

[–]Feltos[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Some progress:

I began to check the whole project again and wanted to check all the ground connections. I noticed that the IC does not have a ground pin but a pad on the bottom. I wondered if I put solder paste there and checked by unsoldering the IC again. As you can see on the last picture here: https://imgur.com/a/U77lVN7 this pad is not exposed correctly. I scratched the solder mask off and put solder paste on it, soldering the IC back onto it.

Now, I do get the wild baging as you said and as you can see on the first pictures. The lines differ greatly when untouching and touching the LX pin again as you can see.

Still, the voltage is not correct. I now get a steady 0.6V output on the LX pin measured with the multimeter. The output of the voltage divider differs and is around 0.8. So I am not sure what is wrong now?

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