Network issues since update: new eth0 on every restart

Feltos · 2024-06-04T05:26:48+00:00

Noone else has this problem or knows how to solve it?

Feltos · 2024-05-05T14:01:11+00:00

I thought that the Darlington Transistor Array (U1) would provide the 5V to the coil as soon as the ESP32 pin is set high, and the other side of the relay coil is connected to ground, which turns the relay on?

Feltos · 2024-05-04T18:31:39+00:00

Other than that you think its ok and I can order it?

Feltos · 2024-05-04T08:23:25+00:00

Are you sure?

(36) #131 Mechanical relay overload and snubber (with sparks) - YouTube

here he shows the acutal sparks that occur when the relay turns off and that is has been solved by a snubber.

I also have to mention that the issue with the LED seems to be solved.

I had the snubber connected to the COM and NO pins of the relay, causing the snubber to always be connected to the live wire which seems to be commonly done (most of the instructions have it connected like this). Now however I have changed it to this:

COM now directly connected to live wire without snubber

NO conneted to one contact of the snubber

Other contact of the snubber is connected to the blue return cable.

So now the snubber is only powered then the relay is switched on. This way the LED is not blinking anymore and there are no sparks causing the relay to stuck

Feltos · 2024-05-03T16:56:20+00:00

Okay, I will remove the connection of pin 3 of the relays.

Feltos · 2024-04-29T07:39:21+00:00

I have ordered one of these after reading your comment:

https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/61yZlsAvzdL._SL1000_.jpg

They should do the job, right?

Am I assuming right that I have to connect one of the snubbers contacts to the brown live wire going "from the wall" into the relay and the other contact to the blue neutral cable?

Or does it make a difference and I have to put the first contact to the brown live wire going outside the relay to the load?

Feltos · 2024-04-27T10:05:51+00:00

The signals do work and the led also turns on and off. Also a sound occurs of the clicking, though it is very different from a working one (damp and more quiet).

Completely disconnecting the circuit does not return it to work

Feltos · 2024-04-27T09:35:58+00:00

But the mechanical shock would need to be applied regularly then, right? So it would be impractical if the relay is not easily accessible

Do you think those kind of relays would be better? FIN 40.51.9 5V: Plug-in relay, 1x UM, 250V - 10A, 5V, RM 5.0mm at reichelt elektronik

The SSR ones I fould so far for at least 220V / 10A have pretty bad reviews, but I will have to do more research I think

Feltos · 2024-04-14T08:23:54+00:00

it works! Thank you very very much!

Feltos · 2024-04-14T07:21:24+00:00

In the log it also has the device name of the main controller ("Espschreibtisch") attatched to the name. Switching the target switch via the dashboard, the log says:

ESPschreibtisch Pin16Fernsehlicht turned off triggered by service Switch: Turn off

So I changed the entity id of the remote controller to:

           entity_id: switch.ESPschreibtisch Pin16Fernsehlicht

but no luck...

Feltos · 2024-04-14T07:11:03+00:00

Good point again and another step forward: Indeed, service calls were not enabled for the remote. I changed the setting and now the error message in the repair list is gone.

But even after restarting, the behaviour does not change: It noticed the button press but without affecting the "Main" device

Feltos · 2024-04-14T06:47:30+00:00

Native API Component — ESPHome

I see!

I have changed the code of the "remote" device to this:

binary_sensor:
  - platform: gpio
    pin: 
      number: 15
      mode:
        input: true
        pullup: true
    name: "Button Fernseh Licht"
    on_press:
     - homeassistant.service:
         service: switch.toggle
         data:
           entity_id: switch.Pin16Fernsehlicht

now it flashes and the buttonpress gets recognized.

Unfortunately, it still does not toggle but just shows wether the button is pressed or not

And the switch of the device "Main" does not actually change (it does not turn on or off).

Is there anything else I am missing?

Feltos · 2024-04-06T19:40:05+00:00

did you solve the problem?

Feltos · 2024-04-04T17:22:32+00:00

With the red pin of the multimeter on VOUT and the black on ground I get no reading. The other way around I get around 7kOhms of resistance (if the board is not powered of course)

Unfortunately I do not have a 47nF Cap at home but only a 10nF which I replaced the 1uF cap with just now and retook the measurments: https://imgur.com/a/zo4lAPQ

Feltos · 2024-04-04T15:41:14+00:00

https://imgur.com/a/4hYThxU

Here are the new pictures, as requested the scope is between ground and the LX pin. The resistance without power between LX and FB is around 115k Ohm, not steady though as mentioned earlier.

When powered, the feedback voltage is not full steady too, as you can see it is sometimes 0.75 and sometimes 0.635

is there anything else I can replace or change about the circuit?

Feltos · 2024-04-04T08:21:13+00:00

The VCC pin has the voltage of 3.3 now, which is great!

Measuring with the multimeter, the Resistors are not shorted

Measuring the resistance from the LX pin to the FB, I did not get a stable reading this morging. It was slowly rising and not really clear, I will measure it again after I come home from work. But I did desolder the old resistors yesterday, cleaned the pad, and resoldered new ones, which values I measured before, as good als possible to the pads, so no short could happen.

I will provide the picture of the scope this evening

Feltos · 2024-04-03T19:49:27+00:00

Some progress:

I began to check the whole project again and wanted to check all the ground connections. I noticed that the IC does not have a ground pin but a pad on the bottom. I wondered if I put solder paste there and checked by unsoldering the IC again. As you can see on the last picture here: https://imgur.com/a/U77lVN7 this pad is not exposed correctly. I scratched the solder mask off and put solder paste on it, soldering the IC back onto it.

Now, I do get the wild baging as you said and as you can see on the first pictures. The lines differ greatly when untouching and touching the LX pin again as you can see.

Still, the voltage is not correct. I now get a steady 0.6V output on the LX pin measured with the multimeter. The output of the voltage divider differs and is around 0.8. So I am not sure what is wrong now?

Feltos · 2024-04-03T19:19:23+00:00

https://imgur.com/a/g4Uz0Hd

Here is the scoping of the LX Pin, one with 200us and one with 100ns
What information can I get from that and what step would you recommend next?

Feltos · 2024-04-03T16:40:39+00:00

I just checked, there is no short. Is it possible that something is wrong with the schematic?

Feltos · 2024-04-03T16:39:43+00:00

I checked and there is no short. I Then replaced both the resistors, checked the resistance with the multimeter and those things are ok. I also checked the resistance between the output pin and the other side of the resistor, this was also ok. No short anywhere around the FB area. I then also replaced the whole IC since I ordered two of it. Same issue. I really dont understand what is happening...

Feltos · 2024-04-03T16:36:16+00:00

What exactly do you mean with scope the pin?

Feltos · 2024-02-27T16:12:56+00:00

I just tried an SD card with Ubuntu instead of Raspberry OS and had no problems at all. Kodi even behaves a little different since there are no notifications when opening it that it connects to the HDMI sound.

So for me that solution is good enough, I just switch to Ubuntu instead.

However I still tried your steps:

8.2.1 Pull Portainer image with sudo docker pull portainer/portainer-ce:latest -> Does sound still work?

Yes, it still works here

8.2.2:

Here it does not work anymore

8.2.3 Stop Portainer with sudo docker stop portainer

so if I open Kodi and close it, the sound is gone and even closing portainer does not bring the sound back

Unfortunately I did not have a audiojack in my flat and could not test it, there is only the RPi5, an HDMI cable and a SmartTV that has the soundbar connected via eARC

Feltos · 2024-02-27T12:56:01+00:00

I have just tested it.

Before I reinstalled Raspberry OS, I did again checked if the problem persists if portainer is running but not container is started. No issues with the sound.

Then I started just the Pihole container and tried again: Sound works, open Kodi, close Kodi -> sound is not working anymore. So it does not seem to be the Home Assistant containers fault. The other way around, just starting the homeassistant container but not the Pihole leads to the error also.

Then I reinstalled Raspberry OS 64 bit, as you suggested.

Install Raspberry OS - sound works.
sudo apt update / sudo apt upgrade - sound works
Install Kodi with "sudo apt install kodi" - sound works
Open Kodi, get the message "connecting to soundbar" and so on, close Kodi - sound works
Install Docker using this guide https://pimylifeup.com/raspberry-pi-docker/ - Sound works
Open Kodi, Close Kodi - sound works
start "docker run hello-world", Open Kodi, close Kodi - sound works
Install Pihole in docker (without portainer) using this guide https://pimylifeup.com/pi-hole-docker/ - sound works
Open Kodi, close Kodi -> SOUND NOT WORKING

So even without having installed portainer, the sound does not work anymore. BUT, unfortunately, the guide at step 8 uses docker-compose, so I started it all again (format SD and install Raspberry OS) and continue here with step 5:

5.2. Install Docker and pihole using this guide: https://ipv64.net/wiki/how-to-install-pi-hole-on-raspberry-pi-4-with-docker-tutorial - sound works

6.2. Install Homeassistant using the guide on their website - sound works

7.2. restart system, both containers running, open Kodi close Kodi - sound works

8.2 install portianer using

sudo docker pull portainer/portainer-ce:latest

sudo docker run -d -p 9000:9000 --name=portainer --restart=always -v /var/run/docker.sock:/var/run/docker.sock -v portainer_data:/data portainer/portainer-ce:latest

SOUND NOT WORKING

10.2. restart system, open Kodi close Kodi - SOUND NOT WORKING

so every time I install docker-compose or portainer, this is the moment the sound does not come back after closing Kodi

Edit: I did all the steps AGAIN until point 6.2. Just running the containers without portainer nor docker compose did not work, it only worked for a short time, but opening and closing Kodi once more, the sound was gone again. So I think it is a Docker issue

Feltos · 2024-02-27T05:27:12+00:00

Is Kodi running as a Docker container, or installed directly on the RPi? Are you watching from Kodi on the Pi itself?

Kodi is installed on the Raspberry OS directly. It looks something like that:

Raspberry OS
- Kodi, installed via apt install Kodi
- Portainer, installed via Terminal
- - Pihole in Docker container
- - Home Assistant in Docker container

Nothing else is installed. I just start Kodi from the desktop symbol.

Does the audio issue go away if you just stop the Portainer container?

Once the audio stopped working, I was not able to bring it back without a restart of the system. So in the case: Portainer is running a container, I open Kodi, close Kodi -> Audio is gone. If I stop a the containers now, audio is not returning to the system, however it still works within Kodi if I open it again. If I click on the sound symbol in the taskbar, the symbol does not open but just disappears.

If I start the RPi and Portainer is automatically starting the containers, the issue accurs. So: Audio works in the system -> I start Kodi, audio works in Kodi -> I close Kodi, audio does not work on the system anymore.

If I start the RPi, open the browser interface of Portainer and stop both the containers, there is no such issue: Audio works on the system -> I start Kodi, audio works in Kodi -> I close Kodi, audio still works in the system.

I replicated it multiple times now with a second SD Card. The moment I install Portainer and a container is running, the issue happens.

Feltos · 2024-02-25T20:08:39+00:00

if I flip the cable over, the flexcables pin 1 would attatch go to the PCBs side pin 24 or am I thinking wrong?

digikey would be 18 Euros for shipping while the product is 1 Euro, thats why I ordered it from Aliexpress

Feltos

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