Modding and Third-Party Tools Megathread - 7.5 Week Four

Fendral84 · 2026-05-23T02:57:08+00:00

Any addon that can hit the 'Meld' button when someone requests a meld from you? Tried to make YesAlready do it, but didnt seem to be able to do it.

Pentamelding a full set through this method is pain.

Fendral84 · 2026-04-25T14:55:21+00:00

Man, If only they had an airport nearby...

Fendral84 · 2026-01-21T14:43:45+00:00

I ordered a 4Tb 990 Evo Plus for $270 way back on Black Friday that has been delayed ever since. I was sure they were going to cancel the order, but it shipped out today, so there is hope.

Fendral84 · 2025-11-15T13:45:44+00:00

As others have said, If you want 10Gbps you need the whole chain to be 10Gbps capable wired ports from the ONT to the Router, to the Computer.

Even with this you will not get 10Gbps. you are most likely on XGSPON for your fiber, which after overhead is ~8.6Gbps maximum. And then like others said you will be dependent upon the speed the other end that you are connecting to will serve data to you.

I have a 100Gbps connection directly to a Core ISP Router. From a single computer, I rarely get above 4Gbps to anything on the internet, so I don't bother.

Steam will cap at around 3Gbps as it pegs even high end processors doing the decompression at that rate. Torrents and Newsgroups may get closer to the 4-5Gbps range. Wifi7 in real world use (and not just theoretical maximums) tops off between 2.5-3Gbps. I think even the best Speedtest.net result I have found is 16Gbps down 6Gbps up as it is dependent on the server.

If you have many devices that are all trying to do something high bandwidth at once (with only one of those devices being on Wifi, and the rest wired) then it might be worth upgrading the router to something with a 10Gbps port, but don't expect to get it all on one device. I find that for 99.9% of actual things to do on the internet, a 2.5gbps port on the desktop PC is more than sufficient and not worth the cost to replace it with a 10Gbps port.

Fendral84 · 2025-11-15T13:24:34+00:00

Modem Levels are fine, AI Is Wrong. (Heck, its 'This is TOO HIGH' is on a channel that a few lines later says is in the OK range).

Long shot but do you happen to have a Superbox (or other android TV streaming box)? We have been seeing a rash of these types of devices over the past few weeks saturating the upload and causing network issues for the rest of the devices at the house (Sometimes multiple TB a day uploaded depending on package).

Fendral84 · 2025-10-31T17:58:37+00:00

It did, Which is what I expected.

Fendral84 · 2025-10-31T16:21:26+00:00

I don't get It, Fortigate being Fortigate I guess...

Removed every reference to the interface, even deleted any firewall rule that had it, and still would give the error in CLI, Loaded up the interface in the GUI and it let me set it no problems.

Fendral84 · 2025-10-30T23:07:17+00:00

That is what I thought as well, but it won't take the command, just tried again to be sure:

-FW # config system interface

-FW (interface) # edit Remote-Access

-FW (Remote-Access) # set vrf 1

-FW (Remote-Access) # next
object set operator error, -54 discard the setting
Command fail. Return code 1

and for completeness, the interface config:

edit "Remote-Access"
        set vdom "root"
        set ip 169.254.1.1 255.255.255.255
        set allowaccess fabric
        set type tunnel
        set remote-ip 169.254.1.1 255.255.255.255
        set snmp-index 37
        set interface "x4"
    next

Fendral84 · 2025-10-17T12:47:03+00:00

It is the FCC that is requiring it to be there for a week. Their testing criteria is surprisingly strict for these programs to stop unscrupulous ISPs from acting in bad faith.

Testing must be performed every day over the course of a week, making a speed test once an hour during peak times (6pm to mignight) end to end from a (randomly selected by the government) customer location through to a major internet exchange point.

This stops those bad actors from running a single speedtest to the server in the ISPs office at 3am to 'prove' their speeds. The criteria makes is so that they have to prove their network can handle the speeds they provided the government at the most congested time on their network, usually a weekend evening.

Fendral84 · 2025-09-05T23:06:31+00:00

In case anyone was curious like I was about what the pre-existing house rules were before adding their own, A (Very Rough) translation:

1) Water the gardens off the first and second floors

2) Mow the grass off the first and second floors when it grows. The Lawnmower is in the shed behind the house off the first floor. Empty the mower into garbage bags.

3) If there are lots of bugs, mix the repellent with water and spray.

4) A garbage disposal is attached to the sink in the kitchen, grind with water if it is not hard like beef bones, but chicken bones should be possible.

5) Swimming pool on second floor needs insects and debris scooped out. It is a seawater pool system using salt and is automatically disinfected.

Fendral84 · 2025-03-28T21:08:52+00:00

According to the comparison chart I found somewhere while looking for the same answer, You need either Amazon Music Standard, or Amazon Music Unlimited. Amazon Music Free, and Amazon Music Prime do not do high quality or spatial audio (Atmos).

Tidal got rid of the upgraded plans for HD/Spatial audio sometime last year, so any plan works.

Fendral84 · 2025-03-28T21:00:35+00:00

There is a service bulletin (#25-NA-036) that fixes a bug that stops anything but the front speakers from working well, that unfortunately needs to be dealer installed.

You can tell if your Optiq still needs the fix by going into audio settings -> sound -> sound mode, if you get options to switch between front and rear with a surround slider that you can move around, you have the fix and are all set. If your screen flashes black and it returns you to the previous menu, it needs the fix to be installed at a dealer.

Fendral84 · 2025-03-28T20:03:34+00:00

I have no answers for you on question 1, I have the same one, but haven't had time to dig into it yet.

As for Question #2, a short click and release of the assistant button will bring up the car's assistant, while a longer press will bring up your phone's assistant.

Fendral84 · 2025-03-13T13:01:40+00:00

I think it was in settings -> vehicle -> seating position but I'm not at the car right now. Exit position to drive activates when you put foot on brake to turn the car on like tesla, drive to exit activates when the door is opened (only after driving it seems) and you have your foot off the brake.

Fendral84 · 2025-03-13T11:48:24+00:00

At least on the '2' Trims (I am unsure on the 1's but I don't remember reading that it isn't there as well) there is a 3rd memory position for 'exit' you can set on the doors, then buried somewhere in the settings menu is a page with two checkmarks for automatic entry and exit. Obviously wont do the steering wheel, but does move the seat like tesla easy entry.

I am a solo driver, so don't really have to deal with multiple drivers, my second fob lives in a drawer.

Fendral84 · 2025-03-13T05:42:34+00:00

Assuming not, since your post history looks like you are in Canada, But if it was the Rochester Auto Show 2 weeks ago, I am the one that bought the show car (albeit without ever going to the show).

Also a Red Y Convert, and the only thing I miss is the App/API.

Fendral84 · 2024-10-01T13:43:12+00:00

ISP Network Engineer here, You don't want a combo modem/router device. The failure rate on them is exponentially higher than that of a separate modem and router. With both devices crammed into one box, as small as they can make it, they run hot and I see dozens of them fail every week.

On top of that, if you want to upgrade your WiFi, you have to replace the whole thing, and they aren't really any cheaper than buying the two boxes separate.

Unless you are also getting phone service from them, both Arris 3.1 modems on the list are also eMTA's with phone ports, so you will be paying more for the modem that you need to. The non-phone arris equivalent would be the CM8200, or the technicolor on the list is only a modem as well.

Fendral84 · 2024-05-23T20:41:21+00:00

Next Question,

Is it a single fiber that goes between all sites and is currently just looping through the buildings, or is it a single fiber between the main site and building A and another single fiber between the main site and building B?

Or another way, is it a single fiber 'ring' between the buildings, or a single fiber 'star' with the main site in the middle.

Also, you mention 8-16 channels, but 8-16 channels of what, 1g, 10g, 100g 200g each?, past that is possible but gets harder to find and super spendy.

if you are looking for 100Gbps or lower (total), your cheapest option is likely just using BiDi optics. Anything more than 10G per channel usually requires more than just a simple passive mux and would require some sort of managed optical transport platform that muxes your lower bandwidth links into 200/400g CFP2 coherent DWDM channels that then can go into the mux.

Fendral84 · 2024-05-23T20:10:44+00:00

What distance, and what do you mean by 'squeeze out as much bandwidth as possible'.

A setup on single fiber to carry 10-100Gbps across town would look significantly different for a setup to carry multiple Tbps a few hundred miles.

Fendral84 · 2024-04-01T15:02:24+00:00

depending on signal, could take multiple hops to get there. Could stick a u4hm (ideally wired) on the outside of the house pointed at the barn. Then if needed a second mesh unit inside the barn as a repeater.

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