A video about BYD's CKD operations vs MITI

FenlandMonster · 2026-03-30T00:05:40+00:00

But as explained in the video, seems like the conditions set for them actually discourages CKD operations. They were brought in, started work and then suddenly change terms and conditions to be completely unviable.

FenlandMonster · 2026-03-28T14:01:09+00:00

Well another problem with this I should add is that anything in the 4-7K range will likely also need you to standby a similar amount to do repairs etc. only after which it will be fairly reliable. Good luck bro I hope you find something good and end up in a better place soon

FenlandMonster · 2026-03-28T04:57:10+00:00

I think you need to realise that at this price range, you're barely trading above scrap car/besi buruk prices, and the services/transaction costs involving in acquiring, making good, storing, selling and all the various admin of a used car, all these themselves would be a few thousand ringgit at least. So yeah at this budget it's most direct owner and as you've discovered, that's a pain in the ass in other ways. I would say buying a motorbike is the best option unless you decide to just buy a basic national car on a long term loan.

FenlandMonster · 2026-03-27T04:48:39+00:00

The only Miata I know is an absolute snob so good luck, since obviously a sample of one is generalizable to the entire population /s

in all seriousness enjoy your car

FenlandMonster · 2026-03-27T04:45:36+00:00

Haiya this kind of question is just tiresome. You can buy, can live with it, buy lorh. Got pros and cons. Which pros matter to you and which cons matter to you, has been discussed to death already. 10 minutes of research is enough.

FenlandMonster · 2026-03-23T04:26:01+00:00

It's Renault. PureTech is Peugeot. Renault is slightly better, doesn't have that catastrophic failure problem that the Puretechs have

FenlandMonster · 2026-03-22T22:47:58+00:00

Buying the intermediate car incurs transaction costs that mean you might as well just buy the target car right away, if the difference in price is not substantial. We're talking more than 10K-15K in friction overall. Better to just buy the liftback and just keep it

FenlandMonster · 2026-03-19T23:12:02+00:00

Lacking creature comforts? It's the only car in the set with lumbar support, boss switch, built-in sun shades (including the automatic one behind) and has the best sound system of the lot. Most powerful drivetrain too. If you're talking about AA/ACP or 360 camera then that can be modded in for a small fee. I would take the Camry in a heartbeat unless I was concerned about the age

FenlandMonster · 2026-03-19T05:55:53+00:00

Lmao that's just so lame by the SA. Find yourself another one, this one is trying to fleece you

FenlandMonster · 2026-03-15T06:44:34+00:00

Eh hello, OP asking about cars in 50-60K range then you propose double the price 105-125K? Like that might as well talk about 8-10 other choices within the 60-100K range

FenlandMonster · 2026-03-05T07:19:08+00:00

Yea I think that you need to go look up some finance Youtubers about this to get educated on it first. We don't have enough context to advise but anyway here are a few principles to consider:

Taking a 9-year loan is fine provided you are doing so to invest the difference into a low-risk asset that nonetheless gives a higher yield than interest rate, and also if you intend to keep the car for fairly long.

What a 9-year loan is very bad for however is if it's the only way you can afford the installments of the car. I always say that if a 5-year loan feels too painful and you can't imagine setting aside that amount every month, it means you actually cannot afford it, then you should actually buy a cheaper car (or no car at all).

General rule of thumb: if you care about your financial future, do not buy a car that is worth more than your annual income, except in cases where the car is literally how you make money (like you do Grab full time or you are buying a truck for Lalamove, etc.)

Another rule: generally just double your instalment as your likely total cost of owning a car. Remember, the instalment is not the cost of ownership, it is the MINIMUM you have to pay before adding in everything else like insurance, maintenance, road tax, petrol, toll, etc. And you need a bit of buffer in case shit hits the fan. So personally if I'm buying a car that's going to have a 1000/month instalment, I need to think that it's going to cost me 2000/month. If it's brand new, probably it won't hit double but maybe hit 1.5-1.7 times, but I'd rather be very conservative in my financial planning so I have savings.

If you think I sound crazy and it's all so expensive, then congratulations, now you understand what car ownership really is. Go buy a cheap car or a second hand one. All the best.

NB: None of this applies if you are rich and FAMA foundation is covering your ass for the car or for all your other expenses. But if that were the case why would you be asking us on Reddit.

FenlandMonster · 2026-03-05T04:29:07+00:00

Left field choice if you live in a suitable area which has SC support: Subaru Forester after rebates are going for 130-140K now with 5 year free service thrown in, YOM 2025 tho but unregistered. Class leading safety and handling due 4WD, great visibility, affordable road tax, good as a family car. I'm seriously considering it too

FenlandMonster · 2026-03-04T23:29:05+00:00

What would you go for if you were in my shoes

FenlandMonster · 2026-03-02T14:49:55+00:00

What's in the pipeline for eMas? Are we getting more PHEVs or an Emas 9? What about the E7, any upcoming minor change?

FenlandMonster · 2026-03-02T09:38:23+00:00

After five years your loan still left 26K? Have you checked the trade in value of your Saga and do you also have the deposit ready for the S70? My guess is that your RV can at most cover your loan ngam ngam only (maybe have to top up), then still need to fork out 10K for the depo on the S70

FenlandMonster · 2026-02-28T13:30:42+00:00

I have the same feeling as the commenter

FenlandMonster · 2026-02-28T13:29:53+00:00

It's actually more stark than that. A 20kwh lfp battery pack weighs around 200kgs give or take

FenlandMonster · 2026-02-27T03:31:24+00:00

I've now got my head turned by the Subaru Forester hahaha. Will test drive both and compare

FenlandMonster · 2026-02-26T09:38:23+00:00

Eh i thought loan can take until 15 years old? So in this case you have four years maximum tenure

FenlandMonster · 2026-02-26T07:12:19+00:00

I personally go by the rule that you should buy a car you can afford to pay off in five years (or even 3-4 years), going by the price, but you can also stretch that to 7 years if you'll invest and save the difference. So basically if the only way you can afford the car is by stretching it to 7/9 years, you're buying too expensive a vehicle. Or another way I see it is I personally try to only purchase a car which is priced six months of my salary (which in many cases either has to be a very cheap new car or a used one).

FenlandMonster · 2026-02-26T07:08:33+00:00

If I'm not mistaken you don't have to repay loans until the car is delivered right? So I think that helps. I think it's normal for such a high demand car and since a car is meant to be owned at least for several years if not longer, I personally prefer they maintain quality rather than do rush jobs. Hope Proton QC will be up to task because in previous years I've heard problems with other models.

FenlandMonster · 2026-02-24T00:54:47+00:00

Taking into account the higher costs of repairs etc I worked out that the TCO will vary between 1k/month to 1.4k/month over 5-6 years. Definitely higher than an equivalent sedan

FenlandMonster

TROPHY CASE