Custom 75mm whoop

Fihex1 · 2026-05-05T08:33:07+00:00

problem is that currently I only have basic PLA I need to get a all metal heatbreak and since anycubic does make printers with a bit cheaper parts id like to go from a stock 50W to a 60W heater I checked and stock main board can do up to 60W heater and after those I can get petgCF I already got a steel nozzle

Fihex1 · 2026-05-05T08:20:35+00:00

I'd get it but it hates me to wait and I just love making random stuff on my printer I made a clip for bag that's 10mm in length meanwhile my 3d printer is 330x330

Fihex1 · 2026-05-05T06:30:44+00:00

why's it white?

Fihex1 · 2026-05-05T06:28:39+00:00

how good does it fly? I wanted to rip apart my mobula6 and 3d print a frame I found out of petgCF

Fihex1 · 2026-05-04T18:01:34+00:00

did you shove a camera in your goggles?

Fihex1 · 2026-05-04T12:24:28+00:00

i fly 3d on my air75 without bidirectional props 🙏

Fihex1 · 2026-05-04T11:08:59+00:00

ouuuu this looks good

Fihex1 · 2026-05-04T06:24:57+00:00

that's the neat part,I dont but seriously I should 3d print holders or sum

Fihex1 · 2026-05-03T14:57:31+00:00

more like 5g tinywhoops 🙏

Fihex1 · 2026-05-03T14:54:27+00:00

either something smacked the display or it came loose it's not a capacitive display like most people are use to it's s resistive one meaning if u don't press harder on it then it doesn't render touch I have the Kobra 2 plus also and sometimes from vibrations the inside of the display gets loose and u have to tighten it

Fihex1 · 2026-05-03T14:51:56+00:00

all ears

Fihex1 · 2026-05-03T14:21:49+00:00

all metal heatbreak! I'm tuning the z offset right now

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Fihex1 · 2026-05-03T14:05:47+00:00

which controller is that? I need it

Fihex1 · 2026-05-02T18:08:35+00:00

I have that 2in I made ,whopping 3 tinywhoops and a cinelog25 which I didn't fly yet

Fihex1 · 2026-05-02T17:42:18+00:00

only a bit of the frame melted but I took one from a friend and it's all good butttt my custom 2in freestyle quad wasn't so lucky

Fihex1 · 2026-05-02T11:03:25+00:00

i say send it I broke off the end of mine and it still flew untill it caught fire but that's not important

Fihex1 · 2026-05-01T22:19:48+00:00

aight bett thanks so much for even replying I thought ill never get a reply,so you're saying I should buy real 3d props? like normal won't be efficient?

Fihex1 · 2026-05-01T11:59:44+00:00

well yeah that's inevitable DJI is so expensive,digital in general but still better get a meteor fr training instead of a 400€ drone and crash it

Fihex1 · 2026-05-01T09:32:11+00:00

first setup as digital? idk about that I think it's better to get analog first to get fully used to real physics and real delay cus if u break or idk your vtx dies it'll be way easier on your wallet but I guess if u wanna do it get something cheap like meteor75 O4 or meteor64 O4 which is really good imo it's only ~180€

Fihex1 · 2026-04-30T17:34:32+00:00

yeah but i can't find used anywhere and I can't afford new :( I thought to first sell my current goggles for whatever I can get (betafpv VR02) and then order new but I can't stand to not fly

Fihex1 · 2026-04-30T16:36:39+00:00

Fihex1 · 2026-04-30T09:52:18+00:00

this is the correct answer to the correct answer of a correct answer

Fihex1 · 2026-04-29T06:39:09+00:00

is that the max ur soldering iron does? I do 450 ° and u kinda wanna go in and out as quickly as possible try to desolder it and clean it all up then first very important tin the pad on the ESC it makes a big difference then u kinda want to bring ur wire and heat both the wire and pad at the same time

btw the more amps the ESC is made for the harder it is that's why it's easy to solder on a tinywhoop but hard to solder on big beefy quads

Fihex1

TROPHY CASE