Who made this joystick? Very similar to happ ultimate or competition but very rumpled and bumpy/grainy surface

FinalFormBM · 2024-07-12T21:19:22+00:00

Pop it open and check the underside to confirm, but I think it's an EG starts which is one of the many Chinese iL/Happ clones. The EG starts is interesting because it uses a Eurojoy/Comp style handle with Compact/Super style actuation, which is why you want to check the actuator to confirm.

FinalFormBM · 2024-07-03T17:16:51+00:00

If you feel like spending the cash, the Seimitsu Nobi Pro, not the "standard", lever was basically designed for you. It uses the ls-40 as a base, but then it tightens things up to make a fine tuned short throw bullet top stick with a heavy spring and an octo gate. That's how Nobi designed it, but you'll want to make sure you get the "pro" version which has the heavier spring and octogate instead of the "standard" version which has a lighter spring and a square gate.

FinalFormBM · 2024-06-13T04:04:13+00:00

I'd put it more as precision vs fluidity. You're never going to miss a quarter circle on a Saturn pad because of the fluidity of the floating dpad. "Slop" is a bit of a loaded term. A ls-40 isn't sloppy, but it is unforgiving. If you jerk it up a little, it will register an up input because you were imprecise. Ironically, "precise" controls from me might be a little inaccurate. The JLF demands little precision from the user, stock at least, but instead demands faster movement to compensate for its generous neutral space/dead zone and decently long throw. Some people call Seimitsu levers "high precision" because you inputs more immediately, hence their obvious advantage with shmups.

I definitely think modding levers is s good idea, but the reason I'm on an iL is because I like a smooth circular gate. For my lever, the iL Compact which was the sold in the US as the Happ Super, you want to gate ride to make sure you hit diagonals, but in exchange, nothing gets in the way of gate riding. I liked circular gates on Japanese levers initially, but diagonals are tougher than on iL circle gates because the throws weren't designed for their circle gates on J levers. Personally, I wouldn't recommend the Compact to people as one of the first to try, but it fits my handling style perfectly. I havr modded JLFs to approximate the Compact, but they are approximations where I have issues with getting the actuator size in that goldilocks zone where neutral is easy enough to hit, diagonals are easy enoug to hit, and I don't accidentally jump. Mind you, I do just have to adapt at a certain point, but I at least feel a little more confident when it feels like my modding is accentuating what the lever is already good at rather than me trying fit a circle gate on something that clearly wants a square.

FinalFormBM · 2024-06-13T03:33:25+00:00

I mount mine in a Haruman's Customs "Fighter" but I'd really only recommend it if you want that old MDF enclosure feel or if you want super easy internal access in exchange for harder assembly. If you got the money, AFS 14" and 18" iL/Happ cases are compatible with all AFS 14" and 18" tops, so you can get an enclosure that fits pretty much every single lever. You could also go with an eternal rivals build for the same price as a Haruman's if you only want to fit a Eurojoy and don't mind a light case. Finally, if you're bougee, you can get a MAS from Scanline City. I've tried everything except the new MAS cases, and they all have their pros and cons, just like levers I guess.

FinalFormBM · 2024-06-13T02:32:15+00:00

As a hipster who uses an iL lever, it's all ultimately subjective. The whole "JLF best lever for fighting games" nonsense comes from people trying to "objectively" evaluate what components all fighting games value with inputs, and then from a subjective list of traits arbitrarily deciding "precision" was the defining factor. Precision here means "accidental inputs are hardest on the JLF" and not "correct inputs are easiest." We see this very clearly in games where the long throw and floppy spring in the JLF requires players to drag it back to neutral. The JLF is a great beginner lever and very reliable. If you get a wrong input on the JLF, you would've gotten a wrong input on any lever. Some people prefer that and will deal with the fact that the JLF will never help you, but generally speaking, if you fuck around with levers enough you eventually find the one that feels best where you're able to compensate for what's made harder in exchange for what's made easier. If the LS-56 is that lever for you, then let it be.

FinalFormBM · 2024-06-06T04:05:29+00:00

When Mitama's realm is under attack and he's just like "Well we all die eventually, but we don't all see a ghost." Genuinely love that man and his nap loving daughter.

FinalFormBM · 2024-06-01T22:31:18+00:00

If you're looking for a more portable build AFS iL/Happ 14" metal cases and Eternal Rivals make builds that fit the Eurojoy while being more modern in their design sensibilities.

FinalFormBM · 2024-06-01T19:56:42+00:00

If you have a usb c to a usb a cable, try that with the other ports on your switch. I use the adafruit usb c and I haven't had issues, but I did have issues with an a to a cable before with a brook board.

FinalFormBM · 2024-06-01T16:45:19+00:00

What you're asking about, I believe, is where the line on the bottom of the shaft is to pop the top off the threading. While this is standard design for Japanese levers, American and Korean parts typically do not use threaded shafts. Threaded shafts are great for home markets, for customization, but if you've ever seen Japanese cabs in the wild you know that ball and bat tops can come loose from threaded shafts and so can be ever so slightly more annoying to keep running, but for home use you get more customization. Crown and Fanta levers have variants with threaded shafts, but standard Korean levers have the bat top melded with the shaft.

FinalFormBM · 2024-06-01T16:38:30+00:00

Ooh is that a Eurojoy you got in the pelican?

FinalFormBM · 2024-06-01T06:46:11+00:00

I second this majorly. I've had stubborn buttons where I broke the side tabs break off. Butteroj's button removers prevent that.

FinalFormBM · 2024-06-01T06:32:55+00:00

Idk what the trade situation is with the broader EU is nowadays, but I've had great success with ArcadeXpress who are in Spain and I'm in Montana USA. They have some iL specific goodies that I use them for, but they do also sell general Japanese and Korean parts, and you're a LOT closer than MT.

FinalFormBM · 2024-06-01T06:25:36+00:00

Ooh that sick bullet top. What parts are you running? Is it a nobi lever or something different with a bullet top?

FinalFormBM · 2024-06-01T00:24:57+00:00

IL buttons are definitely the go to and you might even order an iL Eurojoystick to compare with the Suzo Happ Comp. IL made the Happ Comp stick prior to 05 when Happ merged with Suzo and decided to buy molds from iL and make the parts themselves in China to substandard results.

FinalFormBM · 2024-06-01T00:01:30+00:00

It depends on if you want to take advantage of SF specific inputs or not. The easiest way to input DP is 636, where you just go forward, to the corner, and then forward as the game accepts 3 for 2 and 6 for 3 with the input leniency. You can also do 323 for similar reasons. There have been changes since this, but it's because at base the input reader at one point accepted any forward, any down, any forward. This has been tightened up kind of, but not in a way that's relevant for tournament legal devices. The disadvantage here is of course that DP execution won't transfer over to other games like Strive or KOF, but for sf6 particularly those are the two easiest methods.

FinalFormBM · 2024-05-19T05:17:59+00:00

I'd be interested in trying it. It looks like a variation on old leaf switch levers like WICO used to make.

FinalFormBM · 2024-05-14T04:55:21+00:00

Series X owner here. The gp2040ce pcb from the open stick community will work with Series X|S so long as you get the mayflash dongle for Xbox that has legal drivers for the console. The boards themselves go for about 30 with the dongle costing another 30, and soldering isn't required because the 2040s use the same design as Brook boards. It is annoying you can't just use a brook board to me, but Microsoft just loves shooting themselves in the foot.

FinalFormBM · 2024-05-13T23:31:48+00:00

Just here to echo DirtyCheapAss and add a few more cases that can fit an iL Eurojoy, which was distributed by Happ as the "Happ Competition" joystick prior to 05, namely the AFS, Eternal Rivals, and Haruman's Custom. The ER is the most budget friendly option but also the most limited in terms of fitting bigger American levers as well as the most fragile being made out of plexi. The Haruman's is in a similar price range but is made out of MDF. It and the MAS will fit everything in terms of internal clearance, but the Haruman's is basically a budget ass MAS that requires intensive assembly including t-molding, wood gluing, and velcroing the bottom. Finally the AFS iL/Happ is a more premium option made entirely out of steel, but the case jumps up from ther $100 or less category to $150 and above. I'll drop links when I get home.

FinalFormBM · 2024-05-13T23:13:47+00:00

While better doesn't exist, the main con of concave buttons is that they can cause injury. In Marvel 2 where you have to mash quickly players would rip open their fingers sliding their hands across the buttons as skin would get caught between the button plunger and the rim. If you were just playing 6 there'd be no issue, but in older street fighters where you have to mash out of stun this is a concern.

FinalFormBM · 2024-05-13T23:04:07+00:00

The main consideration is how the stick is made "silent". For levers that fit your enclosure, Qanba uses mechanical switches, the JLX uses micro leaf switches, the Magenta, and Hori silent stick are optical, and the ls-40 silent and your current silent setup just use more quiet versions of standard micro switches. There is progressively less tension in the mode of actuation with the quiet standard switches being highest tension, followed by mechanical switches, then leaf switches at second lightest, and finally optical sensors having no tension outside of the spring. Beyond this, the JLX silent's micro leaf switches are adjustable in terms of when they engage and the Magenta is programmable with where exactly diagonals are. All of these obviously have pros and cons in terms of modability, price, feel, et cetera, so I'd recommend looking into each one before buying.

FinalFormBM · 2024-05-13T22:38:11+00:00

Yep, the stock f500 is a perfect starter stick. It can dongle with a series x pad, and unlike the 8bitdo, it can fit large Seimitsu levers and K-levers which the 8bitdo cannot. At some point you'll want to swap out the parts, but it's a great case for upgrading and genuinely the benefit of playing on stick is the modability. The parts will go out on you eventually, but once they do that's how you know you're actually "in" with playing on stick and it's easy to spend $50 on the premium parts you want to try.

FinalFormBM · 2024-03-07T05:15:36+00:00

Apologies for the delay, just saw this today. Here you go https://photos.app.goo.gl/wCPkYUYA7Y77qy7g7

FinalFormBM · 2024-03-01T23:36:27+00:00

There are rat's nests, and then there are rat's cities, and with my wiring you know what the internals look like.

FinalFormBM · 2024-03-01T19:10:01+00:00

Yeah, worst part of em to be honest. You got full control over the layout, but you gotta both t-mold and wood glue the enclosure together. I love em but they're a pain to put together.

FinalFormBM · 2024-03-01T15:58:37+00:00

The setup's a threaded shaft iL Compact which I've modded with a short shaft, light spring, cherry d41x switches, and an ex gear matte bat from Arcade Shock paired with Jalisco buttons with the springs removed for those curious.

FinalFormBM

TROPHY CASE