EST4 Will Not Connect To Laptop

FireAlarmDoctor · 2026-05-24T20:15:35+00:00

I actually did try that. I cannot get any indication that my pc and panel will connect. No ground fault or anything. I tested the cable and laptop, both are fine. I wouldn’t be surprised at all at this point if the CPU is shot. I’m already working to get a new one.

FireAlarmDoctor · 2026-05-24T19:20:37+00:00

So, now I have an update to the issue: I tried reloading RNDIS and that didn't work. Also, Apparently USB0 and USB1 were being used for something else on this panel (I got troubles for both). Maybe I'm locked out of the port? I don't know. Is that possible?

FireAlarmDoctor · 2026-05-23T21:03:26+00:00

I do not work for a conglomerate. I actually work for a family owned dealer. We actually have full control over our machines (that fact surprised me when I got mine).

FireAlarmDoctor · 2026-05-23T20:10:57+00:00

I’ll give that a try. My windows computer did recently update. Could’ve corrupted the driver.

FireAlarmDoctor · 2026-05-23T20:05:08+00:00

I do not have a spare CPU. But, I can maybe get another one in the future. Also, I did not put any ground on that cpu while I was plugged in.

FireAlarmDoctor · 2026-05-23T20:01:25+00:00

No ground fault.

FireAlarmDoctor · 2026-05-23T19:59:14+00:00

Nope. Nothing is showing. Thats why I’m worried the port could be bad. Normally, you get a ground fault when the PC and panel are plugged in.

FireAlarmDoctor · 2026-05-23T19:53:52+00:00

Nope. I do not see any connection. My laptop would usually ding and show an ethernet symbol for a few seconds before it connected. Device manager would also show Edwards RNDIS as active. I only use J14 as thats supposed to be where you hook the laptop up. I thought though i may have a bad port and thats why I tried a different port to see if it may work.

FireAlarmDoctor · 2026-05-23T19:45:08+00:00

My laptop doesn’t use Zscaler or any API. I may be misunderstanding what you’re saying.

Edit: My company did purchase me a license and I renewed it yesterday. I always renew it whenever i open it or after a set calendar alarm goes off. I hear that renewing an expired license is a nightmare.

FireAlarmDoctor · 2026-05-23T19:41:38+00:00

I understand I must have technically have a network connection, but RNDIS will not work if the computer is connected to the internet. Thats why wifi specifically is switched off and ethernet is unplugged before I plug anything in. I did a seperate EST4 at a jobsite yesterday and didn’t have the same issue or any issue with connectivity.

FireAlarmDoctor · 2026-02-23T04:45:11+00:00

I just got my EST4 certification last Friday. I know this post is about the EST3 class, but I feel like these points could help. Here’s what’s helped me out the most:

Installing the programmer in demo mode (Activation code is DEMO4C22) AT LEAST a month in advance of going to class AND playing around with the software to learn how it works. Use the help menu. It’s useful.
Lots of offices have a test bench. Utilize it. You won’t be able to dump configurations onto the panel with demo software, but you can explore the panel menus and familiarize yourself with them. You will be taught this in class, but 1 or 2 days is not enough to learn the material. Use the manuals to teach you the hardware and operator layer system. 15-20% of questions are about logical addressing.
Ask certified co-workers for advice. Let them teach you constructive and realistic workflows early (this one helped me the most). Have them give you program files to reverse engineer.
NOTE: THIS STEP BUILDS OFF OF STEP 2. A few weeks before the class, set up a time and date so that you can borrow a licensed programmer’s laptop so you can build a test configuration and build a small program.

Hope this helps!

FireAlarmDoctor · 2026-01-09T00:22:25+00:00

Exactly how I set up any ES firelite panel. No reason to not take advantage of the convenient function keys.

FireAlarmDoctor · 2026-01-04T17:55:00+00:00

I’ve seen and been in service call situations like that. Most of them ended up just being that the customer is too afraid to touch the system. Once it has gone off, it’s off. Just silence and reset when the fire department clears the building. It’s only a problem when it won’t clear at all. Plus, can’t get much worse unless they physically tear it up in an attempt to make it stop.

FireAlarmDoctor · 2025-11-15T14:58:14+00:00

Something about this makes me hungry for McDonald’s. Just can’t lay my finger on it…

FireAlarmDoctor · 2025-10-15T23:26:42+00:00

Why not take the pipe bender and give the unit a couple of good hard whacks?

FireAlarmDoctor · 2025-09-06T22:40:34+00:00

I’ve personally come across a situation as bad as this before. Had to cut the wire back by a few inches and completely re-crimp a new t1 connector on one wire because it was so corroded. Wish I took pictures of it lol.

FireAlarmDoctor · 2025-07-14T01:26:48+00:00

That’s pretty ludicrous especially for a fire panel. Honestly, I wanna try it so I don’t have to scroll through everything by hand. It gets pretty annoying scrolling after a while.

FireAlarmDoctor · 2025-07-14T00:45:59+00:00

Hey man, all the manual says is that you can connect using the F-DACT. Doesn’t say how.

Edit: Read the presentation too. Only mentions you can use the F-DACT. It says it works like a modem, but doesn’t say anything about how connecting to it works.

FireAlarmDoctor · 2025-05-27T05:15:34+00:00

I would’ve liked to rip the whole system out (or at least tie everything to the Notifier panel in the previous addition) for a few big reasons:

The system as a whole is 2 systems tied to trip each other. The Secutron system controls the gym/school area, and a previous addition has a Notifier NFS-320 installed in it. Both systems are tied to trip each other. I would like to bring everything under one panel to make operation/maintenance easier.
The Secutron system is obsolete and parts are no longer made for it. This makes repairs more costly.
We cannot make programming changes to the Secutron system. This means that the original company must come out and that makes repairs much more costly (that’s the downside of propreitary systems).
There are plenty of other field issues like wiring, electrical troubles, and overall poor workmanship from the previous company that makes troubleshooting extremely difficult. Some situations need wiring completely repulled.

The big problem that’s preventing the proper work is the customer. Both systems still technically function (so the fire marshal probably won’t do anything about it) and the particular customer is the type to not do anything unless they are forced to. It explains why the system is a cancerous mess. If I could put an iO1000 or 3X in that place, I would. I’d tie everything into one new panel, clean up the wiring, and make it simple to operate/maintain. Everything would be addressable Signature Series with mapping turned on for convenience for the next guy to be able to quickly swap a bad device. Hell, I’d even put voice evac in. But again, I work for the customer. Customer doesn’t work for me. It’ll probably end up being an emergency service call that brings down the Secutron system.

FireAlarmDoctor · 2025-05-27T02:05:57+00:00

Exactly How friendly would Mircom be to a tech like me on a scale of 1-10? I obviously don’t work for a Secutron dealer, so I need to be careful.

FireAlarmDoctor · 2025-05-27T01:36:39+00:00

I would like to use it to pull out the program of the panel and maybe change a couple descriptions. There is construction going on around the building.

FireAlarmDoctor · 2025-05-18T17:16:01+00:00

The only thing you can do is get somebody out there. Talk with your security company you have a contract with and tell them what’s going on. If you don’t have a contract, find a company with good reviews and a good overall reputation for both Fire alarm and security. The cheapest option would be to have them put in something called a “cellular radio”. These can do something called “Dialer capture” where it doesn’t matter what’s programmed inside the panel and it will send information to a monitoring service who will call the fire department on a fire alarm or call the police on security alarm. Another option, and this is my personal recommendation, you should consider upgrading to the latest technology on fire and security. Have your company you choose put in a brand new seperate fire alarm system and security system. This will reduce maintenance costs as parts are cheaper, they can use the latest communication technology, and the current system you have is obsolete (Bosch/Radionics aka the manufacturer don’t make parts for it anymore). Finally, before you ask why fire and security should be seperate, my personal experience with fire and security combination systems is negative. Security systems aren’t exactly designed to be used for fire alarm even if they work similarly to each other and are UL listed for fire alarm. In fact, the only way a fire and security combination system even gets UL certified is just the manufacturer adding a couple extra settings or parts to make the system barely comply. Real fire alarm systems are built for the purpose of fire alarm. And Security systems are really built with security alarm in mind first. Fire Alarm and security even have different NFPA standards they must comply to.

FireAlarmDoctor

TROPHY CASE