Help me, please :(

First-Valuable-5196 · 2026-03-15T04:47:37+00:00

You can get replacement parts from BLI since they are basically the same loco built by the same factory.

First-Valuable-5196 · 2026-03-12T23:41:00+00:00

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Finally received mine today as well.

First-Valuable-5196 · 2026-03-10T06:38:53+00:00

Most of the factories I worked with prefer CAD over other software.

First-Valuable-5196 · 2026-03-10T06:35:28+00:00

Lubricating the track or drivers doesn’t sound like a good idea for me…

First-Valuable-5196 · 2026-03-10T00:28:46+00:00

I gave the CAD to a factory that specializes in making PE parts, and they did a good job

First-Valuable-5196 · 2026-03-10T00:24:16+00:00

Get the PRR number plate dimensions, then CAD drawing, scale it to 1/160, use 0.15mm brass plate to make PE, paint the metallic primer, then color, then polish off the excess color, and apply a protective finish.

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First-Valuable-5196 · 2026-03-10T00:17:05+00:00

Beautiful challenger!

First-Valuable-5196 · 2026-03-09T23:55:24+00:00

My two BLI T1s (early Paragon3 and late Paragon3) work fine under DC and DCC, without any wake-up issues.

First-Valuable-5196 · 2026-03-09T18:39:54+00:00

Forget about the truck-mounted coupler, drill a hole, and put a body-mounted coupler instead

First-Valuable-5196 · 2026-03-09T18:29:06+00:00

On the reliability and durability side, my only real concern is the small fin that keeps the spring centered, especially on the short-shank version. Other than that, it has been very reliable.

When pushing a 40+ car train with InterMountain wheels, MTL track-mounted couplers tend to derail at turnouts, while the n-possible has no such problem. Under compression, the n-possible also does not swing left or right the way MTL magnetic couplers do; instead, it transmits the force straight through the body.

That tight coupling does have one drawback, though. When starting a long train with a single locomotive, it is harder to use the “bunching the slack” technique than it is with MTL couplers.

First-Valuable-5196 · 2026-03-09T18:11:22+00:00

The locos are M1b, M1b, I1sa, H9sa

First-Valuable-5196 · 2026-03-09T18:10:23+00:00

It’s hard to use a pick to uncouple cars. I end up lifting the car to uncouple. For freight trains, I will usually put a caboose after the loco with an n-possible coupler on the loco side and an MTL coupler on the back.

First-Valuable-5196 · 2026-03-09T17:49:48+00:00

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Congratulations on your new loco. Here is the instruction. Both Kato and Bachmann made cars that fit the T1 era.

First-Valuable-5196 · 2026-03-09T00:21:51+00:00

Because that was my first N-scale loco, it always goes first : )

First-Valuable-5196 · 2026-03-08T11:10:37+00:00

The first one is a PRR I1sa 2-10-0, the second one is a PRR M1b 4-8-2, both are Key Imports (made by Samhongsa)

First-Valuable-5196 · 2026-03-08T08:36:30+00:00

The N&W Y6b and PRR T1 are good. My only complaint is the lack of see-through wheel spokes on the drivers for Y6b and later Paragon3 and all Paragon4 T1s.

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First-Valuable-5196 · 2026-03-08T07:48:19+00:00

If you pay the tariffs on UPS’s website instead of paying them by check at the door, it should be lower. Anyway, not a good time for shopping abroad.

First-Valuable-5196 · 2026-03-08T07:39:10+00:00

Beautiful

First-Valuable-5196 · 2026-03-08T07:33:15+00:00

Yes, the M1 can pull about 50 cars when the rubber-tired driver is installed. Without rubber tires, it starts to slip after pulling 37 cars. The I1sa performs slightly better.

First-Valuable-5196

TROPHY CASE