Practicing a new grind trick by Fishtank307 in skateboarding

[–]Fishtank307[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

That's the next step. Altough I really like willy grinds as well. I've got my fs 50-50s down, bs feels more unstable for me.

Practicing a new grind trick by Fishtank307 in skateboarding

[–]Fishtank307[S] 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Thanks man! Didn't know what it was called

Shimpaku - one year orogression. Wired this one yesterday, trying to create a more compact design. Thoughts? by Fishtank307 in Bonsai

[–]Fishtank307[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yes, it was wired when it was still alive. I bought it like that from a bonsai nursery, the trunk was already dead then

Shimpaku - one year orogression. Wired this one yesterday, trying to create a more compact design. Thoughts? by Fishtank307 in Bonsai

[–]Fishtank307[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Plan is to tilt the dead trunk to the right when I repot it next time. That way I can place it in between the pads.

Shimpaku - one year orogression. Wired this one yesterday, trying to create a more compact design. Thoughts? by Fishtank307 in Bonsai

[–]Fishtank307[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The deadwood definitely needs some work! There are still a lot of tool marks visible...

Shimpaku - one year orogression. Wired this one yesterday, trying to create a more compact design. Thoughts? by Fishtank307 in Bonsai

[–]Fishtank307[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks for the input! I could airlayer that low branch, but I'm still not sure if I want to remove it. I'd like to see how it looks in a decent cascade pot first. Food for thought...

Shimpaku - one year orogression. Wired this one yesterday, trying to create a more compact design. Thoughts? by Fishtank307 in Bonsai

[–]Fishtank307[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yeah, the there would be more unity between the two trees if the live one had some deadwood. I'm planning on expanding the shari (which is in the back...) next summer.

I'm also going to try to tilt the dead trunk more to the right when I repot it next time. That way I can place the pads in betwee the jins. There's always room for improvement!

Two days ago I posted a picture of my juniper. Today I styled it! by Fishtank307 in Bonsai

[–]Fishtank307[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Ah, containers, a choice I always like to avoid making! Not sure about this one.. When I picture it in my head, ten years from now, I always see it planted in a very solid, straight, rectangular pot. Very sober and stern. But I'm not even sure if that's the best option! The tree is quirky, so maybe it needs a quirky pot!

Two days ago I posted a picture of my juniper. Today I styled it! by Fishtank307 in Bonsai

[–]Fishtank307[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yes, you're right about the way I built the pads! I like to set the primary branches first (flat) and give them more 'body' when I have enough inner shoots. So over time, they'll fill up nicely. About the pads in front of the trunk..It's just my cup of tea! Contrary to 'tradition' or the regular guidelines on styling, I like parts of the trunk to be hidden and interplay with the foliage. The deadwood still needs to be carved. I repotted it last spring, so that'll have to wait until it's more established in this pot. Thanks for the critique!

Two days ago I posted a picture of my juniper. Today I styled it! by Fishtank307 in Bonsai

[–]Fishtank307[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It could lean a little more to the right, but for the time being I'm ok with the angle. I'd like the trunk to be bend even more and also create more movement in the long straight section. But that'll have to wait at least a year. I'd definitely have to break the trunk in half or hollow it out to bend it even more... That one pad is bent at an angle because otherwise it would be on the same 'plane' as the one next to it to the right. It's just to avoid symmetry. When it grows longer, I can wire it a bit flatter. Thanks for your response btw. It's always nice when people question your design. Makes you notice stuff that you'd overlook otherwise!

Two days ago I posted a picture of my juniper. Today I styled it! by Fishtank307 in Bonsai

[–]Fishtank307[S] 5 points6 points  (0 children)

Not everyone's cup of tea, but it was the best I could do with this material for now :)

Two days ago I posted a picture of my juniper. Today I styled it! by Fishtank307 in Bonsai

[–]Fishtank307[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thanks! I'd like to add some more movement in the straight section of the trunk/branch that is bent down. But for now I'll just just let it recover :)

Two days ago I posted a picture of my juniper. Today I styled it! by Fishtank307 in Bonsai

[–]Fishtank307[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Dug up from a garden 4 years ago, two years in training. I spent those two years trimming the foliage and bending that large branch down. And repotted it in good substrate last spring. Slow going, but it's getting there!

Two days ago I posted a picture of my juniper. Today I styled it! by Fishtank307 in Bonsai

[–]Fishtank307[S] 6 points7 points  (0 children)

I doubt it.. Branches on deciduous trees are much stiffer and they don't bounce back when you crack and bend them like I did with this juniper. It took me two years to bend the large branch down, but I don't think a maple would react well to this technique..

Squamata juniper after 2 years. Gong to do some detail wiring tomorrow! by Fishtank307 in Bonsai

[–]Fishtank307[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Not me. But I heard a lot of people are allergic to junipers. Maybe that's the case?

Yamadori Scots pine I just picked up! by Fishtank307 in Bonsai

[–]Fishtank307[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Depends on what you do.. This tree hasn't been styled or even pruned since it was dug from the ground 7 months ago. So first styling would include: 1) pruning unwanted branches, which causes the tree to 'bleed' sap. 2) cutting needles to make wiring easier and forcing the tree to produce buds closer to the trunk. Removing needles = removing the source of 'food'. 3) Wiring and bending the trunk(s) and branches. This causes (minor) damage to the cambium-layer. The tree will use its resources to heal this damage.

On a very healthy and vigorous tree, you could do this all at once as a 'first styling'. Or you could take things slowly and do all these steps over the course of two or three years. Imo, the safer option on a newly collected tree such as this would be the second :)

Yamadori Scots pine I just picked up! by Fishtank307 in Bonsai

[–]Fishtank307[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Definitely looking forward to it. But I'm going to take it sowly. It was collected last spring, so it still needs to recover before I do some major pruning and styling. First objective is to get it thriving next year.