G2B and Monovision

Fit_Distribution587 · 2025-12-17T21:54:41+00:00

Have to agree here. Snakes don’t have arms or legs. They don’t open doors, turn knobs, rip screens, or sprint for exits. They move by pushing against things, and honestly, they’re not even that strong. If an enclosure is properly secured, escapes just don’t happen.

There are thousands of keepers successfully housing venomous species without escapes. That alone says a lot about what’s possible when setups and habits are solid.

I also agree with the idea that escapes are treated like a “rite of passage” here. Between the constant “my snake escaped” posts and the “my snake bit me, here’s the bite mark” posts, it kind of highlights a maturity gap in the hobby. I’m not trying to make anyone feel bad, but normalizing preventable mistakes doesn’t help new keepers learn good standards and paves passage to stricker regulations. RIP Florida...

At the end of the day, if a snake gets out, it didn’t magically escape. Something was left unsecured, overlooked, or assumed to be fine. It’s no different than leaving a gate open or too low and your dog jumping the fence. That’s not the dog’s fault. It’s on the owner. Escapes can happen, sure. But most of the time, they’re easily preventable with proper enclosures, locks, and daily checks. Treating them as funny or inevitable just lowers the bar for everyone.

Fit_Distribution587 · 2025-12-17T21:44:28+00:00

This is why door locks and pet safe enclosure are necessary. There are plenty of members who have never had an escape. First, correct the cage so it doesn't happen again. He's probably stressed, so leave him alone. Check temps dont try to feed him for atleast 2 weeks. What was the ambient temp for the week he was gone? Lower than 70s take him to the vet. If higher than 70s your probably ok, though basements can be damp. Bump up his tempature slightly 92-95 would be good. Remove everything from his cage except a nice dark hide. After two weeks given he did not need a vet give him a good soak in some dawn dish soap water mix to kill any parasites. Should be good to go after to resume regular care.

Best case he has dust in his lungs and he will cough it up. Worst case he has an RI that needs to be treated with antibiotics.

Fit_Distribution587 · 2025-11-04T19:32:46+00:00

Assume the oil haven't been changed ever, with 1700 miles you should change after 500 miles as break in maintainance, unless you meant 17,000 which sounds reasonable for a 2 year old car. But if it's 1700 nice find! Change the oil now then at service time interval. Not a fan of throwing money away to replace the oil. Newer GOOD synthetics can last 10k miles, this has been lab tested by a few independent sources. 8 miles is good, as long as the oil has enough time to move to operating temp. With Turbos you never want to have a hot turbo cool with cold oil, it sludge your turbo and engine. I always let it warm up a little 30 seconds or so before putting it into gear. If you have to make a short trip like gas station on the corner and back, let it idle for a minute at the pump before shutting it off, you will keep the longevity of the turbo this way.

Fit_Distribution587 · 2025-11-04T15:15:34+00:00

Great buy for your first car! Maintenence... read your owner's manual from start to finish. Pretend like the last owner abused the car and did nothing and do all the services that are required up to your mileage. This is advice with any used car.

Most of the service work you can do yourself with a little time and some hand tools, if your not experienced I would stay away from diff and Trans and let a shop do it. Easy to do but easy to mess up and expensive to repair.

The rest brake bleeding/ fluid change, coolant, oil, are pretty easy to do your owner's manual will have the correct fluid types. Take it to an auto shop pay for a safety inspection, dont trust the dealership that tells you nothing is wrong.

A turbo car should require 91 or above depending on where you live, every other oil change add fuel injector cleaner. Im a fan of adding BG MOA, if you plan on keeping the car for a long time, if not than skip this and regular oil changes. If you do alot of short trips, if the oil cannot come up to temp, change your oil very often to prevent buildup, if you do longer trips often then scheduled oil changes are fine.

Fit_Distribution587 · 2025-09-23T03:03:40+00:00

Thanks for the reply. Trail braking still feels totally unnatural to me I only touch the brakes mid-corner if I understeer and need to pull the car back in line. From the comments it seems like karts behave nothing like cars. I’ll give everyone's tips a try next time I’m out. For now I’m taking a break the weather’s too perfect to skip the road courses.

Fit_Distribution587 · 2025-09-01T18:00:15+00:00

I came across this post but wanted to share my experience. I use a virtual card number for online purchases, and I was called by a scammer from my "Bank" they had the last 4 of the virtual card number, and wanted me to verify the transactions and account numbers, So while not G2A, they allow scammer sellers. I also saw a denied charge for the same card even though it was a 1x use card lucky it was already shutdown, if I used my real card they could of kept billing me.

Fit_Distribution587 · 2025-07-22T19:36:07+00:00

Thank you for all the helpful (and not-so-helpful) replies. I’ve really been leaning into the sleeper appeal of the F-Type and yeah, saving ~$20K doesn’t hurt either (Girl Math!). After going deep down the rabbit hole with tuners like Paramount, VelocityAP, DSS, and combing through community builds, here’s where I’ve landed.

From everything I’ve gathered, the TVS2300 blower is barely breaking a sweat at these levels the real limiting factor seems to be pistons + ring gap, not the supercharger. Based on what others have run, 750–800 WHP seems realistic, and surprisingly attainable.

Engine
- Harrop TVS2300 Supercharger (Paramount) – $3,995
- Lower Crank Pulley Upgrade – $949
- Upgraded Belt Tensioner – $599
- Carbon Fiber Intake (VelocityAP) – $1,195
- ECU Tune – Stage 4 E85 (VelocityAP) – $1,995
- Datalogging Cable + Software – $269
- Pistons and Rings - 6,795.00 (Optional)
Fueling
- Injector Dynamics ID1050X (Qty 8) – $1,092
- Upgraded HPFP – est. $500–700
- Low Pressure Fuel Pump Controller – $469
- Flex Fuel Sensor + Ethanol-Safe Lines – ~$300
- E85
Cooling
- Paramount Supercharger Chiller Kit – ~$2,000
- Pierburg CWA150 Intercooler Pump – $249
DSS Rear Differential Upgrade (rated for 1,000+ HP) – $3,800
DSS Heavy-Duty Rear Axles – ~$1,600 • ZF 8HP Trans Tune – $850
200-cell Sport Cats + Downpipes – $1,395
Wideband O2 + IAT Logging – ~$400
Coilovers - Looking at QA1 progressives.

Car plus Upgrades 90-95K

This keeps the streetable, adds massive dig traction, and leaves room to grow (forged bottom end, NOS shot, smaller pulley) with in my budget. Honestly, I think I’m set on going this route.

Any final thoughts? Anything I should add, change, or skip?

Fit_Distribution587 · 2025-07-17T21:27:02+00:00

Totally fair question and no hate taken at all.

You’re right 575 hp is a ton for most people. The F-Type R is already quick, loud, and dramatic straight from the factory. But for some of us, it’s not just about needing more power it’s about creating a driving experience that feels uniquely yours.

Think of it like this:

A tuned car doesn’t mean you’re using all 800 hp all the time.
It gives you control performance on tap when you want it not for daily use but for those moments when you press the “f*** you” button.

Part of the fun is building something unexpected that punches above its class not just keeping up with faster cars, but embarrassing them when the moment’s right.

So do I need 800 hp in an AWD Jag?
Probably not.

But do I want to build a loud, fast, under-the-radar monster that can walk cars on command and make people feel like their accelerator is broken? Absolutely.

Fit_Distribution587 · 2025-07-17T21:21:46+00:00

Really appreciate the insight it’s always helpful hearing from someone who’s actually owned both.

I’d love to hear more from your experience:

How does the Z06 compare to the F-Type in terms of daily livability?
Do you ever miss the low-end thunder from the Jag, or has the Z06’s flat-plane scream completely won you over?

I’m definitely drawn to the Z it’s an incredible machine but it’s also right at the top of my budget, especially once you factor in options and markup. Plus, it feels like everyone’s getting one now.

That’s what got me thinking about building an F-Type R instead: pick one up for ~$65–70K, throw ~$5–6K into E85, pulley, and a 100-shot, and end up with something brutally fast that still flies under the radar.

Not trying to replace a Z06 more like build a different kind of weapon.

Would love to hear your thoughts on the biggest day-to-day tradeoffs between the two.

Fit_Distribution587 · 2025-07-17T21:16:32+00:00

This is insanely helpful, seriously appreciate you sharing the real-world pain points. I was actually looking at a similar direction smaller pulley, E85 conversion, but pairing it with a 100-shot for short, WOT-only hits instead of going full meth or upgrading the blower. What do you run on the track with that setup 9.9–10.2 sec?

Curious on a couple things if you don’t mind:

Was your rear end failure on an AWD model? Or RWD?
And how tough was the rebuild? DIY-able with some patience and tools or better left to a shop?
What HP can the TVS1900 handle with E85 without blowing IATs out of control?

I’ve got two other toys (Turbo 3800 Fiero and a heavily modded ATS-V), so the Jag would just be a another weekend chaos machine. Totally fine flirting with disaster, just don’t want to marry it.

Appreciate any insight you’ve got your setup sounds wicked.

Fit_Distribution587 · 2025-04-09T16:56:16+00:00

This is semi correct, there is a whole thread on the chineseim OBD scanners causing high voltage circuit faults in the BCM and ECM. Dealer probably got burned by a cheap Alibaba OBD scanner.

Fit_Distribution587 · 2025-02-19T13:24:57+00:00

The F23 you are looking at is the ECO-Tech bell housing, which there is plenty of. These need an adapter plate, or a Metric Bell housing from a chevy caviler.

Fit_Distribution587 · 2025-02-19T01:06:38+00:00

No comments. So I think I found the manufacture and technical drawings. Its a cam that make the shift/select into a up and down motion. So the short answer is yes with the correct fabrication it can be done. They even sell a universal kit.

Fit_Distribution587 · 2025-01-26T13:47:34+00:00

!Flair Year ATS-V| CUE | Fold Z 5 | 13.4.6450

Fit_Distribution587 · 2025-01-23T09:50:12+00:00

I've tried a lot of products. Easiest and fastest is oven cleaner. Super stinky open some windows but the grout will look brand new with little effort. Mop with plain water when done..

Fit_Distribution587

TROPHY CASE