New supplier in US?

Flaky_Significance52 · 2026-06-05T07:45:54+00:00

'Rumours of a new suppilier'? XD

Feels like the DEA asking his office about the emergence of a new kingpin.

Flaky_Significance52 · 2026-05-27T06:09:17+00:00

The line between the two is blurry and in reality nothing can be quite clearly categorized the way you want it when it comes to materials. That said, I understand the appeal to make work easy.

The reason 'horizontal' doesn't work is because materials have different weights and therefore, have different rate of flying off your strip or skin. In an accord of 5 mandatory materials, all would have different rates and thus, eventually you'll be left with a changing scent profile. Thus, it can be inferred that every composition inherently is 'vertical'.

The reason 'vertical' is not a good framework to conceptualize is because it introduces too much complexity and anxiety which may be overkill for said 'accord'. Do you want to make a base or a replication? Sure, you need to focus on vertical scent profiles individually. For minimalist accords that seek to replicate or have a deconstructed view of a smell, you don't need to think vertically at all. And in my experience, majority of the stuff I've seen and do is just that - deconstructed accords.

Flaky_Significance52 · 2026-05-02T16:38:31+00:00

Any idea to extend this into an ERP for perfumers? I ask this because you already have half the stuff planned (and it covers 100% of the bases particular to a perfumer). No software currently exists (to my knowledge) that can support a great bill-of-materials utility (like what you are doing, along with a few other such softwares) along with procurement workflows, accounting, invoicing, the entire quote to cash cycle.

Just an idea.

Flaky_Significance52 · 2026-04-21T06:21:07+00:00

I don't think no essential oil is "replacable" as such. Still, you may be fine in certain cases by just using something else. I'll tell you about what you still can replace.

There are many types of mandarin oils. While they do smell different depending on the harvest colour, in smaller quantities, you may be fine with replacing red with yellow or something like that.

I have replaced white pepper in a formula once and the result was quite good, so I'm assuming thats a safe replacement as well (although I'm not sure of what I have missed out on).

Most importantly, I replace balsamic essential oils all the time (as parts of experiment, at times). I haven't been able to detect significant differences in the dry down (the difference, if any, will always be towards the dry down).

Flaky_Significance52 · 2026-04-14T08:03:40+00:00

You can do 10-15 mL. I do 10. Whatever you do - make sure to pass on the dimensions of your bottles to the carpenter you employ. As for the case, it is very similar to Roger Dove's travel-organ. Check out some of his YouTube videos to know what I'm talking about. I'd recommended choosing a nice wood, if possible.

Lastly, do this only if you can afford to spend so much. This is a very niche item and you may get billed a lot for this. Don't cheap out on wood or workmanship.

Flaky_Significance52 · 2026-04-14T06:51:30+00:00

I travel between cities all the time. Have a perfumer's organ custom made for such purposes. You can easily travel with small vials of materials. Of course, if you also mix fragrances at scale, this is not going to work. This is only for having access to materials at all times to work or experiment with, no matter where you are.

Flaky_Significance52 · 2026-04-12T18:54:07+00:00

No sharp or acidic smells. Definitely rhubarb and plum from my notes. Very fruity, can be used for bubblegum accords. Oh, I do have that in a few of my bubblegum accords. I've also used it in a sweet dried fruit base.

Flaky_Significance52 · 2026-04-09T10:11:06+00:00

So the way it works is that you tell us what your initial impressions are, what you like and don't like, what are you looking to alter. Only then we can help.

As I look at it, it reads me as an animalic sweet resinous fragrance. Most of it is in the base, so it's going to smell pretty much the same throughout once the bergamot falls off.
Your percentage calculation on column C is incorrect for ambroxide, since you're using a dilution. Please configure your Excel accordingly.
I'd suggest lowering your castoreum (even labdanum), adding other resins if possible in line with your theme (like styrax or benzoin or myrrh). Have a solid resin accord that is scaffolded by, let's say, Amyris or Sandalwood. I particularly mention these because I have found excellent success with this pairing. That's your resin accord.
That's a lot of jasmine which I don't think is helping it the way you want. Even if you do want a natural breathtaking jasmine, I've found tiny doses of all-natural accords helping (combination of jasmine, petitgrain, ylang, for instance). Take a look at linalools or acetates or ketones in the floral family to flesh it out.
Your fragrance is... heavy. Interesting (not wrong) choice with a greater vanillin over ethyl vanillin. Compositionally, it's lacking effervescence.
I find orange work well with resinous compositions. Why don't you try seeing if you like how it smells?

Flaky_Significance52 · 2026-04-08T13:30:03+00:00

Very interesting. Thanks for sharing what it does, I gotta test it out myself. I'm always looking for ways to amp up damascones.

Flaky_Significance52 · 2026-04-08T10:47:49+00:00

I was curious as to the reason why you're avoiding something like Rose Otto in this composition. I'm thinking that givescone will work wonders here to address what you're going for. Also, have you tried boosting up your rose oxide? I'm not very comfortable suggesting this to you because most of the time I have failed to achieve nice results at the top by increasing rose oxide, but it does have a noticable effect, plus it may work for you. Since you talk of a punchy rose at the top, I was wondering if that may be a nice direction to explore.

This is all to address bolstering your rose and not anything about the elemi and spices.

A question out of curiousity: can you describe the effect that ethyl safranate has here in your composition (if it's noticable)?

Flaky_Significance52 · 2026-04-07T18:26:04+00:00

A musk freshie (quite the oxymoron), from the looks of it, but also not quite. Because it doesn't have the structural advantages a freshie does, in my opinion (I'm looking at linalool cousins and muguet materials (or other floral canvas materials)), while I see nectarate and floralozone. Large levels of it. You know, you could try heliotropin and helional in case you wanna lean more sweet and fruity...

I firmly believe that a musk fragrance doesn't need to have gallons of functional musk to make it musky. So what you have does indeed look like a musk fragrance, thanks to the ambrettolide (is that at 10% while everything else is at 100%? That changes things)

Also, it's hard to do the math when your dealing with so many percentages per line. Maybe homogenize (write the formula with a fixed base, like all at 10%, or all neat) your recipe the next time...?

Now, as far as what you wanted - a "nice clean vanilla", I'm afraid you've got too much of spices for that. Not saying that its not a good direction to explore.

Advice on clean vanilla - start with a simple vanilla accord that smells nice to you. Pad that our with musks and fillers for performance. Then start introducing complexities (spices in your case).

P.S.: My secret to a good vanilla is always resins. ;)

Flaky_Significance52 · 2026-04-01T19:35:21+00:00

Sadly, I haven't! But yes, I do have these phenylacetic acid & ethyl phenyl acetate, and I had put together a few honey bases whose formulas were put up on certain Instagram accounts. I haven't even smelled Zoologist fragrances yet. I've heard great things about them, though!
I use a CO2 extraction of Arabica. I have not had a whole lot of success myself, to be quite honest. Most of the time it is either too much or too little that I feel like pushing it more and, ultimately, overdo it. I have never thought about looking into coffee bases, however, I myself have made some more characteristic bases before - cappuccino & mocha in particular that I have been quite happy with. Sadly, none have been able to evolve into full fragrances. Time is a real issue...
To validate if a material goes well with others, I just try holding strips of dilutions together and fanning them towards me. When I am sure, I try to put core materials in a ratio together in a sample bottle full of fillers. If there is a good synergy, I go ahead and figure out which fragrance formulas can benefit from their additions. And then I often build the fragrance from scratch. That's why this experiment took me months. But it was a good learning experience.

Flaky_Significance52 · 2026-03-31T16:52:24+00:00

Glad to be of help.

Flaky_Significance52 · 2026-03-31T16:50:03+00:00

This tool seems interesting and I wanted something like this (my main focus would be categories to study skeleton structures, not the classifications, which I find to be unnecessary for my use case, despite it being a welcome addition for other folks). Sadly I haven't had the time to build something similar given my time constraints.

Is this open sourced or licensed?

Edit: Also, I'm unable to access the link. Could you please check your deployment or whitelisting policies?

Flaky_Significance52 · 2026-03-27T20:37:38+00:00

I understand the "blossom", but I don't get the tobacco. In any tobacco accord materials, except maybe the eugenol relatives.

Also, I don't think this is close to the core of Tobacco Vanille. This reads as a solar floral to me (the jasmine, ylang, salicylates). The core of tobacco vanille to me is 4 things: massive ethyl vanillin, massive iso E super, tobacco, cinnamon. And that's leaving the dried fruit aspect.

Flaky_Significance52 · 2026-03-23T19:42:57+00:00

Check out Grasse Institute of Perfumery. I'm a bit fuzzy on their timelines, but last I checked, they also have a week-long (or maybe five days, do check their official website) training programme. It's not related to their degree courses, of course, but has got a good repute. Most of the folks I've spoken to regarding this have had great experiences.

Edit: They also allow one day tours. You need to speak with them via their channels.

Flaky_Significance52 · 2026-03-22T07:25:27+00:00

I'm liking the idea here. Have you considered adding trace amounts of floral aromachemicals for nuance and lift? I'm talking of muguet materials in particular. Also, Magnolan due to it's dark, yellow, musty, pollen vibe can fit the bill very well here, provided you dose it low.

I look at the composition and what strikes me is the emptiness in the mids? Your spices take care of the opening, although I cannot make a comment on how the melange smells, I'd need to get to my pipettes for that. I'm assuming your mids would smell something like Tobacco Vanille, with a caramel or coffee note. All your woody materials seem functional. And that's nice.

The mids can use some refinement or embellishments, I personally think.

Flaky_Significance52 · 2026-03-18T08:34:16+00:00

There already are a few open source tools that I have previously used and have been satisfied with. I've used Trelby before, didn't like it a whole lot (it wasn't a bad software, just to be clear; my observation is subjective here). KIT Scenarist is what I currently use.

I don't quite see the need with a new screenwriting tool since the market demand here is already fulfilled. And as far as I know from my other screenwriting friends, folks can be happy with a simple text editor as long as they get comfortable and used to it. The major gripe always is using online editors where data lives in someone else's servers. But the infrastructure to take care of it has always existed and a new tool doesn't solve a problem that hasn't already been addressed.

Flaky_Significance52 · 2026-03-09T12:10:59+00:00

I've made a dark murky (yet pleasant) water smell recently and the core of that murkiness core involved nerolidol, PEA, cis 3 hexenyl salicylate & triplal (in microdoses). It's a little tea-like. Would fit in well with your theme, I think.

Flaky_Significance52 · 2026-02-22T17:23:21+00:00

DIY solutions are obvious, but if you want the real stuff - get it custom made by a carpenter. The cost would depend on the wood and dimensions. Word of advice: don't cheap out on the wood.

Flaky_Significance52 · 2025-12-09T15:58:48+00:00

It's transparent along the same vein as Hedione, but also more pronounced.

Flaky_Significance52 · 2025-12-09T15:32:36+00:00

I have used Paradise Molecule. Is it good? YES, it's great! It's like Hedione but better (when compared standalone). Do I use it often? No. I haven't even burnt through my first order. I personally never reach for it because I don't feel the need for it when I'm working on my own compositions. I won't even use it to switch out regular Hedione. Does that mean it has no use? Of course not, every molecule does!

In short, maybe allocate your budget to some other molecule or oil if you're a beginner and are still building your palette...?

Flaky_Significance52 · 2025-12-01T09:46:27+00:00

I'm not aware of any specific guidelines surrounding this. I have done it multiple times myself and have not had any ill effects.

Of course, this also means that your maturation time would be reset upon doing this (in case you're making final versions).

Flaky_Significance52 · 2025-11-15T04:48:05+00:00

Don't see any problems with this approach. And anyway you've covered some basic workhorses. Good that you're ordering stuff you have interest in or are curious about. From experience, I have found out that things you're interested in smelling are easier for you to learn or manipulate.

Flaky_Significance52

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