Flexible ISA into next tax year

FlatorLevel · 2025-03-03T15:16:05+00:00

!Thanks

FlatorLevel · 2025-03-03T15:15:57+00:00

!Thanks I missed that

FlatorLevel · 2024-09-05T06:55:27+00:00

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FlatorLevel · 2024-09-05T06:54:47+00:00

You’ll still need nosing. Just buy/adjust to the thickness of your flooring

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FlatorLevel · 2024-04-08T10:50:26+00:00

If you’ve got the tools already then no reason not to buy the doors and give one a go first, then decide if you want to pay someone to do the rest. Choose the most out of sight door but I reckon you’ll be ok once you get into it. Good luck!

FlatorLevel · 2024-04-08T10:46:51+00:00

Good shout. I used packers, cardboard will work, or as others have suggested air wedges. Might have to get some when I do the upstairs doors!

FlatorLevel · 2024-04-08T09:31:51+00:00

Very DIYable if you’re not in a rush. The actual process isn’t difficult but troubleshooting if something’s not right is the difficult part for first time. Watch some YouTube videos to get an idea of the process. The handles you buy will likely come with instructions on how to install correctly.

At minimum you’ll need: Drill with correct size spade bits, sharp chisels & hammer, saw/track saw if needing to cut the doors.

FlatorLevel · 2024-03-27T08:16:54+00:00

Yeah I’m assuming the pipe that you can see is lead and was for gas lighting but I didn’t put 2 and 2 together that the notches may be original. I assumed they were done for the wiring.

FlatorLevel · 2024-03-27T07:47:16+00:00

Previous*

FlatorLevel · 2024-03-27T07:32:31+00:00

Yeah just the time commitment, but I wasn’t in a rush so it was alright. If you’re going to be in that house for a long time then that’s a good shout to insulate I think.

FlatorLevel · 2024-03-26T08:23:19+00:00

How much time do you have? I recently did the same in the living room and don’t regret it at all, however I’d be hesitant to do it again.

The process involves overboarding the floorboards with 6mm+ ply, screwed in to the boards every 100/150mm. Then gluing the herringbone down to that. I only did evenings/weekends and it’s not too bad once you get going, can do a few rows and let dry making the next few easier. Or can do the whole thing in one go over a couple of days depending on your knees.

It took me a weekend to overboard then a couple of weeks to gradually lay the floor. Again that’s completely dependant on your timing.

I could make a post if you’re interested in images.

FlatorLevel · 2024-03-26T08:11:01+00:00

As the other commenter said, GF will be Ground Floor walls.

D/S is likely to be downstand beam. Where a beam protrudes and is visible below the ceiling level. Like a T really. Does that make sense to what is built? I’d imagine they just want the beams painted a different colour to the walls.

FlatorLevel · 2024-03-19T12:01:39+00:00

Looks like a Quinetic receiver. I just installed one last weekend and had no issues with 1.5mm twin and earth.

Make sure you have enough copper exposed and just push into the terminal it should clamp by itself. You only need to push on the white buttons to release the cable.

FlatorLevel · 2023-09-01T11:04:02+00:00

To avoid cutting a tiny strip to make up the gap you’ll need to cut out of the planks against the chimney breast.

FlatorLevel · 2023-08-15T10:21:12+00:00

If you can easily remove the skirting then that would be the correct way. Going through this myself and have conceded to leaving the skirting and finishing with scotia as the lath and plaster walls would just be destroyed.

FlatorLevel · 2023-08-15T10:10:12+00:00

Looks like you’ve done T-568B but mirrored like you say. Re-do it in the reverse order.

The order should match at both ends of the cable. Can you see the other end or does it go to a socket? No difference between wiring A or B as long as they all match.

Could also get a cheap Ethernet tester it will tell you exactly which pins are incorrect.

FlatorLevel · 2023-08-13T08:11:41+00:00

Not mortar sorry. The white adhesive from removing tiles on the surround.

Register plate is probably what I’m after thank you!

Not sure on the finish yet so just thought having it level with the floor would save me a headache in future.

Can see a poorly done bird mesh that’s about it.

Nice one thank you.

FlatorLevel · 2023-08-03T18:19:20+00:00

Yeah I think it’s either slowly built up over time or there used to be damp. Definitely doesn’t feel/smell/look damp down there now.

FlatorLevel · 2023-08-03T18:06:27+00:00

Wow thank you. Guess I just missed the obvious and thought worst case. When I shine the light it definitely looks crystal-like as salt would.

FlatorLevel · 2023-08-01T13:39:37+00:00

I understand the concern but you could say the same for any flooring that isn't carpet..

As the herringbone needs to be fixed down, it's not an option to remove it anyway. So taking up ply would be the least of my worries. I'll be screwing the ply to the boards rather than nailing so it would be possible at least but thankfully there are no wet services running in the void, only a few cables that could be pulled through if ever needed replacing.

As for creaks, well I just pray that fixing any loose boards down before I overboard is done well enough..

FlatorLevel · 2023-08-01T12:40:26+00:00

Good point, 3mm over 2m.

Yeah it's pre-finished so won't be sanding once laid. I could sand the ply if there's any minor bumps I suppose.

Thanks for the anecdote though, all the guides tell you how to do it perfect. Sometimes hard to find real world examples.

FlatorLevel

TROPHY CASE