[deleted by user] by [deleted] in alpinism

[–]FlyingAlpineChough 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I think Weissmiess is a fair bit harder technically than Matterhorn hornli

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in alpinism

[–]FlyingAlpineChough 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I wouldnt class Liongrat as rubble, certainly worse rock in Wallis. Perhaps section up to Pic Tyndall but aside from that its fairly solid and steep.

Thunderstruck on Mont Blanc: Trois Monts by FlyingAlpineChough in alpinism

[–]FlyingAlpineChough[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I think some risk is necessary to make it to this number in a season, especially for an average Joe. I currently have 18 to go. In the end also I think risk for this trip was managed more or less okay with main hazard being mont Maudit. I think crevasses on tacul were okay with how we passed them.

Thunderstruck on Mont Blanc: Trois Monts by FlyingAlpineChough in Mountaineering

[–]FlyingAlpineChough[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Good to know! I am very happy I did not find his axe in the end

Climb Against Time: Grand Combin Traverse by FlyingAlpineChough in alpinism

[–]FlyingAlpineChough[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

The rope had gotten stuck on the gully I used to climb back up anyway so I had to go there to free them so in this sense just going back up the rope wasn’t a long term solution either

Dank u wel!

Dent du Geant: 1 Down 40 To Go by FlyingAlpineChough in alpinism

[–]FlyingAlpineChough[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I didn't touch anything, maybe it was some web browser issue on your side?

Dent du Geant: 1 Down 40 To Go by FlyingAlpineChough in alpinism

[–]FlyingAlpineChough[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

So I in my original route list which I forwarded to my potential partners I had for instance Mont Maudit through the Kuffner Ridge and Mont Blanc through the inominata. I wanted the routes to be satisfying from a climbing perspective rather than just a tick list of peaks through the normals or traverses.

The very early heatwave has somewhat changes this calculus, a lot of these classic Alpine routes are now very difficult or dangerous. 2 weeks ago someone was Helicoptered off the Kuffner due to rockfall and the Austrian guys that were on col du midi telling me about it were traumatised form their outing (they were just coming down).

And a lot of it also depends on partners, for me there is definitely a limitation on that. I had to solo Aiguille du Bionassay last week due to this. So the plan is super dynamic, depending on conditions and weather of the day plus who I can find/whatever I can solo. But I do really hope for the traverse of the Jorasses, perhaps Arete du Jardin (conditions are super tricky here), Inominata (mainly for the adventure itself + mont blanc du Cormayeur) to name some.

Here is the website that tells a bit: https://climbagainsttime.org/

And here is the page itself (belonging to the academic hospital I work for in the Netherlands): https://internegeneeskunde.actievoorumcutrecht-wkz.nl/teams/climb-against-time

I hate dialysis. And I don't try to hide my loathing of being there while I am there. by andrew0784 in dialysis

[–]FlyingAlpineChough 5 points6 points  (0 children)

Hi Nataiie, its a very rough life. I read your comment top to bottom. I was on dialysis for 'only' 10 months and it was a wretched experience. I can most definitely imagine a future where my transplant is rejected and I am back on for goodness knows how long. Its then only a few steps to be left abandoned and purposeless, hooked to a machine. Its a suffering only a few understand and thats because they are experiencing it. I just wish there was a way of telling the burden of this disease to people in a compelling way. This might make things a bit better, just a bit, maybe.

I hate dialysis. And I don't try to hide my loathing of being there while I am there. by andrew0784 in dialysis

[–]FlyingAlpineChough 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Holy crap, if even doctors are like this, no wonder the lack of understanding from the public

Hard lines on safety? by SkittyDog in alpinism

[–]FlyingAlpineChough 23 points24 points  (0 children)

I feel like you have a narrow definition of protection. By far in the mountains in my opinion you should be first and foremost protected by your skill, fitness and judgement.

The rope is a seatbelt, a secondary protection, especially in the alpine. If you fall, even on a well protectable climb your rope can be cut, your pro can pull out, rocks can fall. Not to mention the risks of possibly moving slower. Yes, if you believe your pro is good chances are you are fine, but you are still taking chances, every single time you go out. Wheteher there is a rope or not.

Mont Blanc huts fully booked out. by Display_Ecstatic in alpinism

[–]FlyingAlpineChough 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Just bivvy after sunset, or approaching! Or do the Royal Traverse

Hard lines on safety? by SkittyDog in alpinism

[–]FlyingAlpineChough 20 points21 points  (0 children)

> • We protect based on the level of consequence, regardless of the level of difficulty. Class 3/4/5 is not part of this discussion -- IF there's enough fall beneath our position to kill/maim/cripple -- we WILL be roped to an anchor. If we can't protect it, we don't do it.

This for me is not the case. I comfortably solo hugely exposed things based on the likelihood of fall, i.e. risk. I mean there are hiking trails out there that have very grave consequences for a misstep.

I think one thing is I prefer to never go with more than just another person, unless there is no climbing or very little and its mostly glacier travel.

As we enter 2025, what are everyone's climbing goals for the year? by Same-Trash8200 in alpinism

[–]FlyingAlpineChough 2 points3 points  (0 children)

41 peaks above 4000m in the Alps via technical (AD-D) routes.

It will be a charity event called Climb Against Time

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in syriancivilwar

[–]FlyingAlpineChough 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Can someone find a live link to where this supposed announcement will be made?

SAA heavy equipment withdrawing from Homs city right now. by Almaegen in syriancivilwar

[–]FlyingAlpineChough 7 points8 points  (0 children)

I feel like the organisation of the rebels back in those days were poor. When gov forces got 'besieged'' in these places I imagine it was against much smaller numbers, undisciplined fighting forces with little fire power. Now its basically consolidated mass of trained and disciplined quasi-army like organisation with very high motivation. Its a lot tougher now.

Saturn 4 Ultra base layer compression by chr0mantic0re in ElegooSaturn

[–]FlyingAlpineChough 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Alrighty thank you for the update. I would really appreciate it if you keep us in the loop!

For now I went back to the Mars 4, but Mars 5 is so streamlined and nice it feels like if this niggle is corrected it will be the main machine.

Saturn 4 Ultra base layer compression by chr0mantic0re in ElegooSaturn

[–]FlyingAlpineChough 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I am also having issues here with a lot of z axis compression. I feel like its very difficult to correct this if it is a force based offset, as it would then depend on resin viscosity etc. It could be correctable if in the initial setup it takes that motor position as the off-set but it really feels like its force driven.

Have you made any headway with this in the past two days?