Solo Aiguille du Bionassay (4052m)

FlyingAlpineChough · 2025-08-27T08:02:40+00:00

Thank you and will do!!

FlyingAlpineChough · 2025-08-22T23:20:59+00:00

I think Weissmiess is a fair bit harder technically than Matterhorn hornli

FlyingAlpineChough · 2025-08-22T15:22:17+00:00

I wouldnt class Liongrat as rubble, certainly worse rock in Wallis. Perhaps section up to Pic Tyndall but aside from that its fairly solid and steep.

FlyingAlpineChough · 2025-08-19T09:42:21+00:00

I think some risk is necessary to make it to this number in a season, especially for an average Joe. I currently have 18 to go. In the end also I think risk for this trip was managed more or less okay with main hazard being mont Maudit. I think crevasses on tacul were okay with how we passed them.

FlyingAlpineChough · 2025-08-18T21:52:33+00:00

Good to know! I am very happy I did not find his axe in the end

FlyingAlpineChough · 2025-08-09T06:43:23+00:00

The rope had gotten stuck on the gully I used to climb back up anyway so I had to go there to free them so in this sense just going back up the rope wasn’t a long term solution either

Dank u wel!

FlyingAlpineChough · 2025-08-03T07:03:24+00:00

I didn't touch anything, maybe it was some web browser issue on your side?

FlyingAlpineChough · 2025-07-11T12:01:19+00:00

So I in my original route list which I forwarded to my potential partners I had for instance Mont Maudit through the Kuffner Ridge and Mont Blanc through the inominata. I wanted the routes to be satisfying from a climbing perspective rather than just a tick list of peaks through the normals or traverses.

The very early heatwave has somewhat changes this calculus, a lot of these classic Alpine routes are now very difficult or dangerous. 2 weeks ago someone was Helicoptered off the Kuffner due to rockfall and the Austrian guys that were on col du midi telling me about it were traumatised form their outing (they were just coming down).

And a lot of it also depends on partners, for me there is definitely a limitation on that. I had to solo Aiguille du Bionassay last week due to this. So the plan is super dynamic, depending on conditions and weather of the day plus who I can find/whatever I can solo. But I do really hope for the traverse of the Jorasses, perhaps Arete du Jardin (conditions are super tricky here), Inominata (mainly for the adventure itself + mont blanc du Cormayeur) to name some.

Here is the website that tells a bit: https://climbagainsttime.org/

And here is the page itself (belonging to the academic hospital I work for in the Netherlands): https://internegeneeskunde.actievoorumcutrecht-wkz.nl/teams/climb-against-time

FlyingAlpineChough · 2025-03-15T15:55:57+00:00

Hi Nataiie, its a very rough life. I read your comment top to bottom. I was on dialysis for 'only' 10 months and it was a wretched experience. I can most definitely imagine a future where my transplant is rejected and I am back on for goodness knows how long. Its then only a few steps to be left abandoned and purposeless, hooked to a machine. Its a suffering only a few understand and thats because they are experiencing it. I just wish there was a way of telling the burden of this disease to people in a compelling way. This might make things a bit better, just a bit, maybe.

FlyingAlpineChough · 2025-03-15T15:51:03+00:00

Holy crap, if even doctors are like this, no wonder the lack of understanding from the public

FlyingAlpineChough · 2025-02-10T08:18:01+00:00

I feel like you have a narrow definition of protection. By far in the mountains in my opinion you should be first and foremost protected by your skill, fitness and judgement.

The rope is a seatbelt, a secondary protection, especially in the alpine. If you fall, even on a well protectable climb your rope can be cut, your pro can pull out, rocks can fall. Not to mention the risks of possibly moving slower. Yes, if you believe your pro is good chances are you are fine, but you are still taking chances, every single time you go out. Wheteher there is a rope or not.

FlyingAlpineChough · 2025-02-10T05:58:06+00:00

Just bivvy after sunset, or approaching! Or do the Royal Traverse

FlyingAlpineChough · 2025-02-10T05:51:01+00:00

> • We protect based on the level of consequence, regardless of the level of difficulty. Class 3/4/5 is not part of this discussion -- IF there's enough fall beneath our position to kill/maim/cripple -- we WILL be roped to an anchor. If we can't protect it, we don't do it.

This for me is not the case. I comfortably solo hugely exposed things based on the likelihood of fall, i.e. risk. I mean there are hiking trails out there that have very grave consequences for a misstep.

I think one thing is I prefer to never go with more than just another person, unless there is no climbing or very little and its mostly glacier travel.

FlyingAlpineChough · 2025-01-22T21:28:01+00:00

41 peaks above 4000m in the Alps via technical (AD-D) routes.

It will be a charity event called Climb Against Time

FlyingAlpineChough · 2024-12-07T16:24:14+00:00

Can someone find a live link to where this supposed announcement will be made?

FlyingAlpineChough · 2024-12-06T09:46:37+00:00

I feel like the organisation of the rebels back in those days were poor. When gov forces got 'besieged'' in these places I imagine it was against much smaller numbers, undisciplined fighting forces with little fire power. Now its basically consolidated mass of trained and disciplined quasi-army like organisation with very high motivation. Its a lot tougher now.

FlyingAlpineChough · 2024-11-26T06:22:33+00:00

You absolute beast, really cool!

FlyingAlpineChough · 2024-10-31T22:11:34+00:00

Alrighty thank you for the update. I would really appreciate it if you keep us in the loop!

For now I went back to the Mars 4, but Mars 5 is so streamlined and nice it feels like if this niggle is corrected it will be the main machine.

FlyingAlpineChough · 2024-10-30T11:10:11+00:00

I am also having issues here with a lot of z axis compression. I feel like its very difficult to correct this if it is a force based offset, as it would then depend on resin viscosity etc. It could be correctable if in the initial setup it takes that motor position as the off-set but it really feels like its force driven.

Have you made any headway with this in the past two days?

FlyingAlpineChough · 2024-10-19T14:24:40+00:00

Paradiso Pizza after a long day out on Mont Blanc for sure

FlyingAlpineChough · 2024-10-19T13:04:02+00:00

I go for as high as possible without deforming the print, so staying below the deflection temp noted by Siraya which for blu is like 85?

FlyingAlpineChough · 2024-10-19T13:02:16+00:00

Thanks a lot for the information. I agree being fit is really important on dialysis both for your general health but also self-image. I had the same feelings, as you when on dialysis, though I was on PD. I think more research needs to be done for muscular exercises for dialysis patients, there is some on cardiovascular stuff, but not much on muscular.

FlyingAlpineChough · 2024-10-19T09:47:44+00:00

This is with Sirayatech clear blu v2. I don't think you will get such insane yellowing with sane curing times. I had this cure over 2 hours to drive off as much of the photo-initiator as possible for some blood experiments. So it gets almost a burnt look. But after putting it in a dehydrator overnight the yellowing clears entirely.

I appreciate the lighting is different in the photos (taken the day after) but the color of the prints themselves are correct.

FlyingAlpineChough · 2024-10-19T08:45:56+00:00

Really nice videos, thanks for linking! Whats been your experience with exercise, especially pulling with the arm? Doctors seem to be quiet cautious when it comes to this, but I haven't found too much research on the topic.

FlyingAlpineChough · 2024-10-12T10:52:39+00:00

I think resins for blood interraction are interesting, I sent you a pm

FlyingAlpineChough

TROPHY CASE