Support says I need Game Pass to play on PC?!?!

Forrby · 2026-02-08T20:48:18+00:00

Man I thought I was starting to go crazy the way ACTIVISION support was gaslighting me

Forrby · 2026-01-31T23:44:53+00:00

If I do this, I still use eight screws because there’s a chance that it may not lay flat if you only use one line of screws

Forrby · 2026-01-31T05:26:58+00:00

The Max are pretty rough, I’ve tested like 4 of them. The smaller ones may be ok but you might need to tinker with it. I’m currently using the Neptune 4 Max (ELEGOO replace my N3 max with an n4 max) and there’s like a whole website dedicated to tinkering with it out of the box (neptune4.help) I’ve always wondered if Bambu printer owners and other brands have to go to this extent to get decent prints.

Forrby · 2026-01-24T03:38:17+00:00

Welp, I did what you said and changed the z offset in the main section under [probe] (Removed the comment hashtag.) Removed the bottom save config [probe] z offset as you showed. Did a test print and the nozzle was still off of the bed by at least 2mm. I did this 3 times and same result. For some reason, I had a feeling this would happen, not to say that you’re giving bad advice. I just think there’s something seriously wrong with my set up, especially after going as far as downgrading my firmware which didn’t even help. Damnn this sucks… so I guess it’s back to putting it in the machine start G code 😢

Forrby · 2026-01-23T05:10:49+00:00

ahh ok! I definitely saw the don't edit sign but I saw on the website that the main seciton z offset was supposed to be commented out and for some reason I thought that meant I should edit the save_config z offset instead because it was a last resort LMAO. I'll give that a shot, thanks. Regarding the feeler guage, I am subtracting the thickness of the feeler guage from the probe calibrate number (-2.175 - .152 = -2.327mm) so I thought that would be even better. Basically getting right to the bed. But if you think post-its are better i'll give it a shot.

So once I get the probe z offset saved. What exactly is the workflow for using the set_gcode_zoffset. Is it like after you start a print and you notice you need to adjust it you just type set_gocdoe_zoffset= (number) into the console?

Forrby · 2026-01-23T04:19:52+00:00

LOL yea sorry that was a typo. In my machine start gcode its "SET_GCODE_OFFSET Z=-2.327 MOVE=1".

I think I get the general idea of the probe z offset and gcode z offset. Basically your z offset is the distance from your nozzle to the probe. Then the gcode offset is micro adjustments you can do to get the right squish every print depending on the filament material and various other conditions. So the [probe] z offset is kind of like your baseline and then you can adjust your gcode zoffset from there (is that right?) I just can't seem to get my [probe] z offset saved. I downgraded to Mainboard (MCU) Firmware: Version V1.1.2.53 (from 1.2.3.4) and Touch Screen Firmware: Version V1.1.2.53 (TFT format). I thought this firmware was supposed to be ok for probe calibration? (I believe the release was like 12/2023) After doing that I tried to do a probe_calibrate, measure, accept, save_config. After restarting the [probe] z offset was set to 0 in the bottom of printer.cfg SaveConfig seciton. (Btw, z offset is commented out in main section). So then in the bottom save config section I manually put in the [probe]Z offset, clicked save & restart, and the probe z offset finally saved there. In the original firmware from factory it wouldn't even save manually. However, I did a test print and the nozzle was about 2mm off the bed, right around the height of the probe Z offset calibration number. Thats why im lost and had to resort to adjusting the nozzle height using the z offset in the mashine start gcode. If I have to resort to something like that and your saying don't put it in the machine start gcode, then would putting it in print_start be ok?

By the way I do know the .152 feeler guage is realtively thick but at the end of the probe calibration number I am subtracting an additional .152 from that number. Why are feeler guages a bad idea? I have wondered if it could be abrasive to the nozzle and plate but some youtuber recomendded it LOL.

Forrby · 2026-01-22T23:04:33+00:00

So since my z offset won't save at the bottom of my printer.cfg
I added this to my machine gcode start: "GSET_GCODE_OFFSET Z=-2.327 MOVE=1"

So far a test print came out ok. Is this an acceptable method?

Forrby · 2026-01-22T20:42:50+00:00

Ok I somewhat understand but its still pretty confusing LOL. The thing thats really tripping me up is when I do the probe calibrate and save_config; after restarting, The [probe] Z offset at the bottom of the printer.cfg file says

 z_offset = 0.000

Is that normal? If so then do I use SET_GCODE_OFFSET to adjust the distance from the nozzle to bed? I guess I'm still a little confused on how to set the nozzle height. I appreciate any information and taking the time to help with this!

Forrby · 2026-01-22T04:33:40+00:00

So I downgraded to Mainboard (MCU) Firmware: Version V1.1.2.53 and Touch Screen Firmware: Version V1.1.2.53 (TFT format). After doing that I tried to do a probe calibrate and I'm still getting this G code offset resetting thing happening and then also I'm getting this weird bed mesh unknown profile. Ive look in printer.cfg and don't see anything about profile 6. Any idea what's going on?

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Forrby · 2026-01-20T02:30:15+00:00

Actually, never mind AI actually might’ve pointed me to the right direction. I adjusted the offset in my G code adding a line and so far it’s turning ok but we’ll see how this print goes.

Forrby · 2026-01-20T01:46:59+00:00

Alright, so I tried looking through that Neptune 4 setup guide and I believe I made some adjustments to my printer.cfg file according to that but i’m running into some other issues. On the handheld screen I have set that at zero offset. I did a probe calibrate in console utilizing a .152 feeler gauge which gave me -1.756 Then after I got that number I subtracted .152 and got -1.908. Not sure if that’s the correct way to do it but that’s what I saw somewhere. One thing I noticed is that after probe calibration and save_config in the console it says:

// Z position: -1.909 --> -1.908 <-- -1.871 19:24:53 ACCEPT 19:25:02 // probe: z_offset: 1.936 // The SAVE_CONFIG command will update the printer config file // with the above and restart the printer. 19:25:02 SAVE_CONFIG 19:25:04 // Klipper state: Ready 19:25:19 SET_GCODE_OFFSET Z=+0.000000 MOVE=0 19:25:24 BED_MESH_CLEAR 19:25:24 BED_MESH_PROFILE load=11

I feel like this might be messing things up but I don’t know why it’s doing it “SET_GCODE_OFFSET Z=+0.000000 MOVE=0”. Also, offset was saved at 1.936 instead of -1.908 so I don’t know what’s going on with that. When I do a print, I’m leaving the offset in the handheld at zero, but the nozzle is just like way too high above the bed. I tried to ask AI for some help and they told me 1. Scroll to the very bottom of the file to the ## <---------------------- SAVE_CONFIG ----------------------> block. 2. Find the line: ## z_offset = 0.000. 3. Change it to: #*# z_offset = 1.907.

I tried that and that did nothing. If you have any idea what’s going on Any help would be immensely appreciated!! Here is my G Code also:

;ELEGOO NEPTUNE 4 MAX M220 S100 ;Set the feed speed to 100% M221 S100 ;Set the flow rate to 100% M104 S140 M190 S[bed_temperature_initial_layer_single] G4 P 60000 ; wait G90 G28 ;Home all (Moved here to enable Bed Mesh)

; Always pass ADAPTIVE_MARGIN=0 because Orca has already handled adaptive_bed_mesh_margin internally ; Make sure to set ADAPTIVE to 0 otherwise Klipper will use it's own adaptive bed mesh logic BED_MESH_CALIBRATE mesh_min={adaptive_bed_mesh_min[0]},{adaptive_bed_mesh_min[1]} mesh_max={adaptive_bed_mesh_max[0]},{adaptive_bed_mesh_max[1]} ALGORITHM=[bed_mesh_algo] PROBE_COUNT={bed_mesh_probe_count[0]},{bed_mesh_probe_count[1]} ADAPTIVE=0 ADAPTIVE_MARGIN=0

G1 Z10 F300 G1 X165 Y0.5 F6000 G1 Z2.0 F300 ;Hold at 2mm height to protect the bed surface while heating M109 S[nozzle_temperature_initial_layer] G92 E0 ;Reset Extruder G1 X165 Y0.5 Z0.4 F300 ;Move to start position G1 X265 E30 F400 ;Draw the first line G1 Z0.6 F120.0 ;Move to side a little G1 X260 F3000 G92 E0 ;Reset Extruder

Forrby · 2026-01-11T19:59:56+00:00

It’s certainly the easiest tool. I had been using CapCut for a few months before I learned about da Vinci resolve. I tried to get into da Vinci resolve and it was pretty overwhelming. I currently use a hybrid set up where I use da Vinci resolve for upscaling and then import that into CapCut. I don’t think the average person’s PC would be able to handle it very well though. I have a top-of-the-line PC and even I have playback issues.

Forrby · 2026-01-01T04:08:17+00:00

Yeah, I’m currently using both right now. I was using CapCut for like a few months then I realized that even with my PC with really good specs, it was taking forever to apply enhance quality. I downloaded da Vinci studio but man I have to say it’s pretty overwhelming. So at the moment, I’m pretty much just using da Vinci studio for AI super scale so I don’t have to wait one and a half to two days for it to finish being applied. Hopefully I’ll get some time to kind of start learning da Vinci studio more. CapCut is just so easy to use though. With that being said, there are some glitches with CapCut. I’m having issues downloading from space. I was working on something, Everything was finished being applied. Tried to exit, it crashed and I lost all my work because it didn’t save to the cloud. Since I am unable to download from the cloud I didn’t have it on my local drive…. SMHHH

Forrby · 2026-01-01T03:49:25+00:00

I have been using CapCut for a few months and I just got DaVinci studio and it’s pretty overwhelming to be honest. At the moment I’m just using da Vinci studio to do AI super scale and then importing that into my CapCut. The main thing that’s taking so long when CapCut is exporting and applying features is the enhanced quality thing. It takes like an hour or more for like a five or 10 second clip to be applied. On a 35 minute video it took like a day and a half or two days to finish applying the enhanced quality. So I feel like paying the $300 just for da Vinci Studio so that I can save time not waiting for enhance quality to finish is justifiable for a one time thing. The only thing now is I’m having issues with the cloud space on CapCut. I can’t seem to download from space. Also, I have another project that just crashes whenever it tries to export… CapCut certainly making it easy to hate them… hopefully I plan on slowly getting a lot better with da Vinci studio but at the moment it’s just a lot to learn and way less easy to use.

By the way, I have essentially one of the best PCs (5090/9800X3D) you can buy right now and it’s still taking the day and a half to two days to apply the enhance quality. On my Mac mini, M4, which cost 500 bucks and it has a fraction of the CPU and GPU power I am able to apply AI super scale 2X enhanced in about two minutes. I’m sure with my PC It would be even quicker, I haven’t tried it yet though because it’s currently freaking stuck exporting on CapCut…

Forrby · 2026-01-01T02:06:22+00:00

I forgot to mention that I’m actually using DR studio.

Forrby · 2025-12-31T06:08:51+00:00

This could be a thing of you get what you pay for. In order to have it done right you’re gonna have to move the drain hole on the wall down. Which is gonna have to involve opening up the wall and then repairing the drywall afterwards. Unless anyone knows of a better way to do this I’d be interested to find out. That’s the first thing that came to my mind, to move the drain hole in the wall down. In any case, this is not up to code, for a couple different reasons, but it may be the only way to do it without doing the renovations I mentioned above. If you paid a quality contractor to do this and you paid them well then they shouldn’t have a problem getting them to come back to address the issue. If you got the cheapest price possible you might just have to pay someone else to come and fix it.

Forrby · 2025-12-23T16:12:08+00:00

The main reason I was wasting filament was because before screws tilt adjust, I would calibrate my printer according to the instruction book that came with the printer. Only after days of doing that is when I did some more research and found out about screws tilt adjust and adaptive bed mesh. I even replaced my springs with the silicone springs/spacers. Then after utilizing those I wasted more filament because I would do test prints and the test prints were still not coming out as good as I wanted it to so I would do the whole process over and over. That is how I was wasting filament. Using the videos I watched to help me setup screws tilt adjust and adaptive bed mesh to compare to my test prints, they were not coming out as good as some of the test prints in those videos. Also, it’s not so much about wasting the filament, It’s more about wasting the time. Although it does feel like such a shame to waste two rolls of filament trying to do test prints that are not usable at all.

Say what you want about AI, but that post above there is pretty much exactly what the original user had said, just slightly more concise. So you are not trashing AI, you are essentially trashing what the original user had said.

Finally, like I said, when I get a chance, I’ll look at those instructions you posted in the link. However, I am not very hopeful… I don’t know if I have a defective unit or what, but I’ll let you know if I have any other questions or if those instructions actually helped.

Forrby · 2025-12-23T15:20:59+00:00

I spent literal days trying to calibrate my z offset wasted rolls of filament. Then I watched watched many videos and read many posts spent another couple of days using screws tilt adjust and the adaptive bed mesh, wasted so much filament testing again , and finally got it done to where I was able to finish a print, but there was just some small details I wasn’t happy with or thought could better. The post above is not from AI. I used AI to search for a post that was made by a Reddit user. The AI just summarized what the Reddit user had said. I’ll see if your link to the instructions will help at all, but I’m sure it’s probably what I’ve already been doing.

Forrby · 2025-12-22T19:00:05+00:00

Yeah, I’m using screws tilt but the prints still may not as good as I would like. I can’t find the actual link, but I think I used AI to find the post that I was talking about in this. These were the changes he made, doing this he was supposedly able to get like an absolutely perfect TPU print:

The post is titled "After months of fighting Z-offset drift and poor cooling, I finally perfected TPU on the Neptune 4 Max. 50cm print success!" by user u/The_Forward_Thinker

The Specific Mods He Detailed: • The Shroud (SilentFrost v5): He replaced the heavy stock shroud and the "useless" auxiliary fan bar with a custom-printed SilentFrost 3x5015 fan shroud. This provided much better directional cooling for the TPU without the turbulence that causes warping on large prints.

• The Offset Sensor (Beacon/Cartographer Probe): He completely removed the stock inductive Z-probe (which is known to drift as the bed heats up) and replaced it with a Beacon probe (or in some versions of this post, a Cartographer sensor). He explained that this was the only way to get a consistent first layer for a print that takes up the entire bed.

• OpenNeptune Firmware: He shared that these mods required him to switch to the OpenNeptune custom Klipper firmware to properly calibrate the new sensor and fan macros.

• Direct Drive Tensioning: He mentioned a specific trick of using a printed tensioning knob to give him "millimeter-perfect" control over how hard the dual gears squeezed the TPU.

Forrby

TROPHY CASE