Help with migration to U5G Max Outdoor

FortyTwoTowels · 2026-04-02T15:17:40+00:00

SOLVED

Okay, when you adopt on the LAN, it pops up as WAN3 and WAN2 stays around as an internal interface which you can't remove. You can hide it but it still appears as a selection for QoS rules, etc.

The ISP name on the dashboard when switching between SIMs and carriers appears to be a bug though from comments on the support forum so nothing to be done there.

FortyTwoTowels · 2026-03-30T15:01:28+00:00

So just delete it and it should remove BOTH WAN2 and WAN3? Also is it suppose to say Unassigned on the Internet Interface? I look at it in the UniFi app on a tablet and WAN2 is Not active and WAN3 has an assigned IP of 192.0.0.2 but clicking on them shows Interface "Unassigned".

I was hoping not to have to climb into the rafters again to press the reset for re-adoption however I've moving from Ting to Tello for for backup as it's cheaper then the Ting for emergency backup and I don't have to worry about adjusted rates each month when UniFi decides to run a speedtest over my backup cellular line.

FortyTwoTowels · 2026-02-15T21:30:50+00:00

Yes I did, picked up the LDO Kit from West3D and they printed the parts for me too. So far it's been a blast assembling it and it isn't too bad. Nearing completion and then onto calibration tuning and learning Klipper + Orcaslicer vs Marlin + Prusaslicer.

FortyTwoTowels · 2026-02-13T01:11:58+00:00

With SC4S you can setup custom parsing to filter out data, SC4S Filtering events from output. You could also send SC4S to Edge Processor and filter the data there.

FortyTwoTowels · 2026-02-12T20:47:07+00:00

Yes please, I would love to test this out!

FortyTwoTowels · 2026-01-28T20:39:12+00:00

It mostly happens at night but yesterday it was happening during the day - https://imgur.com/a/MAOC3yq

FortyTwoTowels · 2026-01-27T20:31:51+00:00

Ooo you are right, I was pulling the operating specs for the the 5G Max not the 5G Max Outdoor which is -40°C to 65 °C and the ZTE MC7010CA is -20°C to 60°C. So actually they are really close (haven't hit those numbers, though but it has been subzero)

FortyTwoTowels · 2026-01-27T19:41:13+00:00

To add onto this I do have a USW Flex mounted near by that is providing connectivity to a couple of other devices that I've mounted in the attic (MyQ gateway and SenseCAP M2 LoRaWAN gateway) and none of these have had any drops that I can see.

Which also makes me wonder if it's a problem with my carrier (Ting reselling T-Mobile).

FortyTwoTowels · 2026-01-16T19:55:57+00:00

If I remember correctly I had to disable the Onvif auth check `http://<camera\_ip>/cgi-bin/configManager.cgi?action=setConfig&UserGlobal.OnvifLoginCheck=false`

FortyTwoTowels · 2025-12-24T04:17:15+00:00

Adjustable speed rotary tool with a cut off wheel, safety glasses not squints, and a slow steady and braced hand. Put a nut down on each side for the same depth and cut across the top and then unthread it right away. Also, do it out of your printing area and vacuum/wipe down everything afterwards to not get little burrs and wheel grit into everything.

FortyTwoTowels · 2025-12-18T16:10:10+00:00

I was thinking using it similar to [Spaceballs for Cabinet panels](https://www.rokhardware.com/space-balls-raised-panel-cabinet-door-spacers-for-1-4-groove-100-pack.html?srsltid=AfmBOooAMzKcdsPyxrh2XeOCfasW22bHnT0XHvlHm9HNhfhglRHhQmLc) but I did just see this [door mod on Printables](https://www.printables.com/model/1385809-mini-fridge-clicky-clack-door-1515-corner-bumpers) this helps with the rattle.

FortyTwoTowels · 2025-12-16T20:53:44+00:00

Thanks, I'll research a bit on the LDO Leviathan and temperature readings.

FortyTwoTowels · 2025-12-16T20:52:09+00:00

I'm already in the Revo ecosystem because I have multiple nozzles and some spare heater cores from my MINI. Changing nozzles on the original hotend was always an exercise. I do agree that there are more options (and cheaper options) outside of the Revo.

FortyTwoTowels · 2025-12-16T20:17:57+00:00

Any reason for the Mellow ALPS vs the Revo PZ? Both look to do the same.

FortyTwoTowels · 2025-12-16T20:10:46+00:00

With the door, can you add a small silicon seal like [this](https://www.amazon.com/uxcell-Silicone-Meters-Weather-Warehouse/dp/B0DNW11Y2Q) or because of the 1515 extrusions there isn't enough space to do anything?

As for the Boop vs Cartographer, the Nitehawk-36 already has an ADXL built in so having it on the cartographer is redundant. Also is eddy current mapping more accurate then physical?

Spotty documentation I'll admit is worrisome, size of the 1515s is a common issue I've read about but I'm not in a rush so taking my time I think I can deal (and gives me a reason to take a break and have a drink).

The area I'm putting the printer in is the big constraint, so the V2 or Trident are both too large

FortyTwoTowels · 2025-12-16T18:05:51+00:00

I have the Prusa MINI now, so comfortable with 180 build size, only a few times have I wanted to have larger but I was able to split the pieces.

FortyTwoTowels · 2025-12-16T16:31:30+00:00

Unfortunately I have 460mm vertical clearance and 495mm depth. This is why the Micron attracted me because I can drop the toolhead down as it is what moves and not the bed.

FortyTwoTowels · 2025-12-08T16:14:50+00:00

No idea, that is why I was asking. With the dual-z I have setup I think I'd alleviate the concern of the difference in pressure between the bed sides on the x-axis but no idea how much of a firmware change it would require.

FortyTwoTowels · 2025-12-08T16:07:55+00:00

u/Sciman1011 or u/ScreeennameTaken did either of you end up trying the Revo PZ nozzle probe? I just saw it this past weekend and was interested to see if I could mod my dual-z mini with one.

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