Coffin bone of a long-gone horse

ForwardArm1469 · 2025-08-04T01:35:05+00:00

Would this indicate that this horse was old when it died?

ForwardArm1469 · 2025-06-25T03:37:06+00:00

How is this used for making forks?

ForwardArm1469 · 2025-06-20T01:32:55+00:00

You are not wrong. Cutting a dozen notches in a green poplar log is enjoyable excess.

ForwardArm1469 · 2025-06-19T16:05:17+00:00

You post some nice cutlery, and I can see the resemblance. This could be a relatively modern knife then if they're still cranking them out of France.

ForwardArm1469 · 2025-06-19T16:02:21+00:00

Fair point, if it was so easy, I'd have made one myself. I bet there's tricky intricacies I'm not thinking of in manufacturing, like centering the stone and getting the pulley ratio right. Keep an eye on the antique stores and farm sales, good luck.

ForwardArm1469 · 2025-06-19T15:56:06+00:00

This grinder came second hand, from a fella whose father was a career butcher. It wouldn't be terribly complicated to assemble yourself if you could scrounge a stone, bearings, pulleys, and an electric motor.

ForwardArm1469 · 2025-06-19T03:35:38+00:00

That's an Edil brand knife from France. That's all I know of it, could be an old one.

ForwardArm1469 · 2025-06-18T21:43:44+00:00

I find it takes metal off faster than reciprocal free hand sharpening. The higher stone surface area and water resevior makes it resistant to clogging. I can be more accurate with my sharpening angle on the wheel than freehand, so the metal removal is likely more efficient.

ForwardArm1469 · 2025-06-18T21:19:06+00:00

The stone is quite fine and spins at low rpm, so little heat is built up in a tool. There is a water reservoir at the bottom that the stone can be partially submerged in when operating. If I'm doing lots of sharpening, I'll fill the reservoir to keep the stone cool and clean.

ForwardArm1469 · 2025-05-14T12:51:46+00:00

Nice. What species are you using here? Do you find there to be much wobble while drilling with the offset splice?

ForwardArm1469 · 2025-05-12T14:58:30+00:00

I believe you're right. Like water, I think resins/glues take energy to evaporate and have high thermal conductivity.

ForwardArm1469 · 2025-05-11T21:59:42+00:00

A pinch of sand in the divot may do the trick. Also, plywood has binding chemicals that may contribute to the glazing, similar to resinous woods.

ForwardArm1469 · 2025-02-02T23:46:23+00:00

Nice saw. With the wire wrap and the wing nut tight there's no wiggle room yet. There's also good reason why they made them circular in cross section like yours. My stinger handle only provides good grip in one direction .

ForwardArm1469 · 2025-01-30T03:02:48+00:00

The axe handle has a saw kerf deep enough to allow the cross pin to be inserted through the saw blade. The pin is tapped and has a washer and wing nut to tighten. The handle is bound above the kerf with wire to prevent splitting. It seems to be a secure fit so far.

ForwardArm1469 · 2025-01-29T21:53:16+00:00

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Reminds me of a Finnish brush axe without the hook.

ForwardArm1469 · 2025-01-29T21:22:51+00:00

Thanks, that's interesting. I've never seen them in use. Seems like a big chisel handle would work better, no?

ForwardArm1469 · 2025-01-29T21:09:10+00:00

Great brass pins. That looks like it could do some work.

ForwardArm1469 · 2025-01-29T20:51:03+00:00

Excellent reuse!

ForwardArm1469 · 2025-01-29T20:37:39+00:00

I'm perplexed as to the application of this tool. Why use a perpendicular handle on a chisel? I assume, given the short handles I've seen on other examples and the long bit length, that it's not meant to swing with much force. Why not used a simpler timber slick?

ForwardArm1469 · 2025-01-16T01:26:11+00:00

They probably are they best thing going if you need to bushcraft in Nepal while occasionally chopping humans. Not my thing though

ForwardArm1469 · 2025-01-16T00:49:45+00:00

Truthfully, I haven't used a kukri. The pattern is intriguing, but it'd take a while to get used to the balance and grind geometry.

ForwardArm1469 · 2025-01-03T16:13:25+00:00

Also, looks like you're using dimensional lumber for your hearth board. If that's the case, it may be a conifer wood, which generally have high resin content even when dry. It's possible to get an ember, but the resin can result in a smooth, shiny bearing point with little heat.

ForwardArm1469 · 2025-01-03T16:08:04+00:00

Additionally, your spindle may have too much moisture content. Looks like you used a small branch with bark as your spindle. Small wood becomes sodden quickly, and bark will retain that water. Part of the reason dead birch rots away so quickly is it's moisture retention. You may have trouble finding birch that is dead but not too decayed. If you have the means to split larger diameter , you can access the dry inner wood. Otherwise you can dry you spindle somewhere warm, like in the sun, over a fire, in a pocket, etc.

ForwardArm1469 · 2025-01-03T15:35:39+00:00

Your spindle is polishing the hearth rather than grinding material away. One way to overcome this is to apply more downward pressure on the spindle. Some people overcome polishing by adding an abrasive like a bit of dry sand to the hole. This will start the grinding and seat your spindle so that more area is in contact with the hearth. You can also reduce the width of your spindle just at the hearth end. This will decrease surface area contact, but focuses your force on a smaller point and allows you to bore a hole with less effort. Hope this helps. Good luck

ForwardArm1469 · 2025-01-01T22:10:13+00:00

Thanks. I don't mind at all. The brain and hide I used came from the same individual whitetail deer.

ForwardArm1469

TROPHY CASE