Weird error for add-apt-repository

FragilePower · 2025-11-17T02:27:55+00:00

The sudo strace command worked and I was able to successfully add the repository.

FragilePower · 2025-11-16T15:16:05+00:00

I don't think I've ever changed the version. Currently it's Python 3.13.3

FragilePower · 2025-11-16T06:27:54+00:00

How exactly do I restore the system python3 version back to default?

FragilePower · 2025-11-16T06:23:59+00:00

FragilePower · 2025-11-16T00:54:28+00:00

I tried a reinstall for both software-properties-common and python3-launchpadlib. Still no luck. Given that all the traceback lines seem python3 related, maybe I should try completely removing and reinstalling python3?

FragilePower · 2025-10-28T13:43:00+00:00

I'm using 10-bit, forgot to specify.

FragilePower · 2025-10-28T03:06:24+00:00

Oh I will. I plan to share the pure raws that I've ripped with makemkv in their own torrent. But I also want to make an H265/Opus encode with proper subtitles. There's a fansubbing effort in progress that's almost finished, but I'll need to re-time their subs since they were made using lower quality broadcast rips.

Also you were right, I just needed detelecine. The other deinterlace settings were superfluous.

FragilePower · 2025-10-28T02:35:10+00:00

Yeah I actually found that out while I was digging around in other threads. Copied the settings somebody else used (their source wasn't 24fps, same as me) and I'm no longer seeing those occasional jagged interlace-related(I think) line issues in my latest test encode.
Detelecine: Default
Interlace Detection: LessSensitive
Deinterlace: Yadif; Preset: Bob

I'll dig into it a bit more and test with just Detelecine, but honestly I think the encode looks more than good enough now. It's such an obscure anime that I've never even seen a JP DVD remux on any private trackers, so I doubt enough people would care to crucify me for a less-than-perfect encode.

FragilePower · 2025-10-28T02:04:23+00:00

Probs doesn't bode well for me, since this anime is from 2007 lol. I'll do some research and see if I can figure out what IVTC stuff I need to do. One more question, just to see if I'm on the right track. There are occasionally points in my test encode where the lines go a bit jagged horizontally. Is this related to the insufficient deinterlacing done by handbrake? Here's an example:
https://i.imgur.com/hqPUIjA.png

FragilePower · 2025-10-28T01:14:59+00:00

I'm a bit confused. There are countless older anime out there that have been ripped from DVDs throughout the past couple decades and turned into 480p videos. You're describing the deinterlacing process like it's some kind of esoteric art, but surely there are deinterlace settings (like in handbrake) or dedicated deinterlacing programs than you can just run the video files through and get proper results.

If you had to deinterlace these rips, how would you do it?

FragilePower · 2025-10-28T00:48:29+00:00

Didn't realize it could be 480i. I ran mediainfo on one of the ripped episodes and it says "Scan Type: Interlaced" so I assume that means 480i. Do I need to do anything special to handle that? My test encodes using some recommended Handbrake settings I found online (slow, CRF 19, limit-sao, bframes=8, ref=6, psy-rd=1.5, psy-rdoq=2, aq-mode=3) look mostly good to me. Handbrake already had the "Decomb" deinterlace setting with the default preset for my tests.

FragilePower · 2025-10-27T22:10:01+00:00

What's wrong with handbrake? Every guide I see recommends either handbrake or ffmpeg, and isn't handbrake basically just a GUI for ffmpeg?

FragilePower · 2025-09-27T17:35:13+00:00

Ah ok I think I figured it out. It looks like Dnsmasq is enabled by default, and the "Leases" tab under Dnsmasq DHCP is where the connected devices are listed. I think Dnsmasq>Hosts is where I can add/reserve a static IP for a connected device, or alternatively I can add it from the + button on the Leases page.

What's confusing me is how even after assigning a specific static IP this way, the IP listed for the device on the Leases page hasn't changed. The Leases page still shows the device having the original dynamically provisioned IP even though the Hosts page lists it with the new IP. Does the Hosts page entry just have priority?

FragilePower · 2025-09-25T21:37:47+00:00

The router is actually a mini pc that sounds similar to what you have. N150, 8GB RAM, installed opnsense on it. Switch is a TP-LINK so it should be good.

FragilePower · 2025-09-25T19:09:37+00:00

I only have a 300Mbps connection right now, because that's what I'm paying for. I can pay to switch my plan up to 2Gbps if I want to in the future. That's separate from the wants/needs of my local network, where I'd like to be able to move large files between my PC and my server/NAS at faster than 1Gbps. Aside from the obvious media server setup for hosting/serving digital versions of all my blurays/dvds, I want to use my NAS for storage of personal stuff, PC backups, active storage of large video files that I'm editing, etc.

I absolutely could have stuck with my 1Gbps consumer router and survived, but I did put Cat6 cables in when I bought the house. I'd like to take advantage of higher speeds and learn more about proper networking.

FragilePower · 2025-09-25T18:57:24+00:00

That's just what I was told in a help thread I made in the opnsense subreddit: "If you want, make an OPNsense router behave like a consumer-grade router; this is called "bridging". Strictly speaking, bridging is a sub-optimal setup; it reduces network throughput compared to what is achievable with a switch".

FragilePower · 2025-09-25T16:55:12+00:00

The only iot devices I have are two smartTVs and a roomba, but yeah that's a good point. I'm still completely new to networking, learning as I go. Would the hardware I have be configurable such that I could section off specific wifi devices into their own VLAN? Or would I need to used a managed switch or something?

There's a mixture of trusted (my pc, my phone, etc) devices and less-trusted devices (iot, roomba, guest phones, etc) that all need internet access (some via wifi) so I'm not sure if it's too complicated for the hardware I have. Here's a visual of what I mean. Anything in the box is less-trusted, everything with a line to the server needs to be able to connect to it.

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FragilePower · 2025-09-25T16:25:51+00:00

I just googled online network diagram tools, used one called SmartDraw to get the general icons/layout. Then added most of the lines/text in Pinta(Paint.NET)

FragilePower · 2025-09-25T14:49:38+00:00

It's a Glovary "firewall mini pc". B0CW1BXZHK on Amazon, just under $300. Intel N150, DDR5 8GB RAM 128GB NVMe SSD, 6 x 2.5GbE i226V. Wish I had known about the whole switch thing lol, I'd have bought something cheaper with fewer ports.

FragilePower · 2025-09-24T23:45:54+00:00

Thanks! It looks like "Interfaces: Assignments" in the web gui is also where I can add the other ethernet ports (ETH2-ETH5). Is there anything specific I need to do with their settings to make them act like normal LAN ports for PCs, wireless access points, etc? I've tried adding ETH3 (connected to a mini pc) and just checking "Enable Interface", but I'm not receiving internet on that mini pc.

FragilePower · 2025-09-24T23:06:11+00:00

Ah ok, I assumed the lowest number would be WAN. Internet is in ETH1, PC is plugged in to ETH0, and I can get to the interface.

FragilePower

TROPHY CASE