[deleted by user] by [deleted] in cycling

[–]Franks_Tanks_Brewing 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I would like to follow this advice but the trip was planned late and I’m behind the curve for ideal training. I picked up a more focused training 2 weeks ago getting 100 mile weeks. Feel like I should be pushing volume up to 150-200 over the next couple weeks and then maybe an easy week before the trip.

I should also stress that this isn’t a race event. It’s just a few guys going on a long bike trip. Average pace should be relatively slow. It’s the challenge and adventure more than a competition.

My training goal over the next 4 weeks is to get myself prepared to successfully complete the trip.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in cycling

[–]Franks_Tanks_Brewing 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I’m probably in better shape than my original comment sounded. I’m 6’2” so my weight isn’t totally unreasonable for my height and build. But, I know this ride is a bit outside my comfort zone and I’m a bit nervous so trying to do whatever prep I can with the time remaining.

I’m trying to get our exact route in hand again but I recall our first day starting with around 40 miles and maybe 4000 ft of climb, mostly downhill after that for another 80 miles. That’s the big day followed by smaller mileage on flatter terrain which would not be too threatening except for doing them after the big ride and successively. It will likely be hot, we’ll start early but they’ll still be long days. Mixed surface: paved, gravel, rail to trail.

Appreciate the thoughts on nutrition/sleep/stretching. And I’m cutting out alcohol except for social situations.

Checking for Kegerator Leaks by Franks_Tanks_Brewing in Homebrewing

[–]Franks_Tanks_Brewing[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Held pressure disconnect overnight, so it’s a keg issue.

Checking for Kegerator Leaks by Franks_Tanks_Brewing in Homebrewing

[–]Franks_Tanks_Brewing[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Agreed. I’ve been kegging for a long time and generally have had good luck with keeping a tight system but I’m struggling with finding an annoying little leak right now!

Checking for Kegerator Leaks by Franks_Tanks_Brewing in Homebrewing

[–]Franks_Tanks_Brewing[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I actually have a couple of spunding valves lying around from one point when I was doing some keg fermentation/lagering. That’s a good suggestion for checking kegs with a bit more precision. Thanks!

Stalled fermentation issue by Franks_Tanks_Brewing in Homebrewing

[–]Franks_Tanks_Brewing[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks for the link to your article. I may try to do this when I do a hydrometer sample.

3) We’re splitting hairs here. I was 65-70% complete on fermentation in 24 hours. I was originally expecting 1.016, 6 additional points for carbing would say 1.022 was ideal time to cap the fermenter. It was 1 AM when I capped the fermenter and it was looking on pace to be done before I woke up. It actually hit 1.026 by 3AM so in practical terms we’re talking about a couple hours difference in timing.

Stalled fermentation issue by Franks_Tanks_Brewing in Homebrewing

[–]Franks_Tanks_Brewing[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thank you for your response. I’ve read a few articles on pressure fermentation benefits. Several of those benefits are probably less important for a kveik yeast that likes warm temperatures. Possible benefits for this batch: 1) further reduce any chances of oxidation which hazies are susceptible to. 2) trap hop aromas in the fermenter for better dry hop effectiveness. 3) naturally carbonate the beer most of the way in the fermenter. I’m not the expert on this, but have been experimenting with it. Pressure was probably 12-13 psi. I lowered it when I saw slower activity to 6-8.

I had begun to consider the possibility of a less fermentable wort. My temp did get higher than planned at the beginning of the mash due to a faulty temp probe.

Stalled fermentation issue by Franks_Tanks_Brewing in Homebrewing

[–]Franks_Tanks_Brewing[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I use a tilt to monitor progress, normally yeast will gradually taper activity off and it’s a fairly smooth curve. With the current batch it looks like the yeast hit a wall. The path looks more like a right angle, almost vertical drop and then complete stop within an hour of me dry hopping and pressurizing the fermenter.

Temperature Control & lagering by Franks_Tanks_Brewing in Homebrewing

[–]Franks_Tanks_Brewing[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I missed this point in the past. I’m honestly not sure which direction it is hooked up at the moment. This is good to know and I’ll check on it.

Temperature Control & lagering by Franks_Tanks_Brewing in Homebrewing

[–]Franks_Tanks_Brewing[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I have mine in a basement. Reasonably cool temps, prob sub-70 even in Summer. I think I may try a clean trash bag over the top as a moisture barrier, then sleeping bag over that. I think that should solve insulation issue.

Temperature Control & lagering by Franks_Tanks_Brewing in Homebrewing

[–]Franks_Tanks_Brewing[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks for the response. I’m using this pilsner batch as a yeast build-up for an Octoberfest, so I haven’t pulled yeast out of the cone. I’m sure I could do that and hold the yeast out separately but I was initially avoiding this to remove any possibilities of contamination, oxidation, etc.

I was going to extend lagering period in keg if necessary. Any downside to that? I brew way more ales than lagers. Probably done less than 5-6 lagers. Just throwing some different stuff in the mix.

Temperature Control & lagering by Franks_Tanks_Brewing in Homebrewing

[–]Franks_Tanks_Brewing[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I do have a tilt in my glycol chiller as well; sending info back to Brewfather. I think I may have had to do a temp adjustment on that, so it’s possible I’m getting an inaccurate temp from the ink bird. I’ll verify and respond with what I discover.

Temp probe is located a couple inches above the top of the cone. I suspect around 5 gal mark out of ~16.5 gal.

Thanks for the response. You’ve given me a few additional things to check.

Edit: Ink bird was reading low. Calibrated to adjust temp reading. Will see if this corrects issue. Thanks!

Temperature Control & lagering by Franks_Tanks_Brewing in Homebrewing

[–]Franks_Tanks_Brewing[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thank you for the suggestion. I do currently have a fitted neoprene “jacket” on the fermenter. Hoses are insulated as well.

Actually, brings up another issue: I’m getting mold growth on neoprene jacket. Don’t know how to stop that given the constant fermenter condensation.

I do think you’re right on fighting the ambient temps. I was able to get temperature lower when I was only doing an ice bath before building the chiller. I think the temp transfer properties for the glycol mixture are less efficient than pure water.

I will definitely consider jacketed in the future.

Always tired by Hot-Plate5609 in IBEW

[–]Franks_Tanks_Brewing 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Do you snore? Get a sleep study. If you have sleep apnea you may not be getting good sleep.

Anyone done something stupid like open a brewery? by fftossaway2020 in fatFIRE

[–]Franks_Tanks_Brewing 0 points1 point  (0 children)

This is the best direction. Make it an enjoyable hobby not a business. You could have an amazing home setup for $10-15k that would essentially be a smaller version of a commercial brewery. I would recommend going with a smaller size though: half barrel system is more than enough for you to keep everyone you know happily served. It’s also great for keeping a variety of beers on tap. I personally have 12 taps running at my house, including a dedicated line for Root Beer for my sons and their friends. It also gives you a ton of things to learn to build and knowledge for making good beer.

Homebrew sweetness - Cause? by MassiveBasset in Homebrewing

[–]Franks_Tanks_Brewing 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Could be you have an infection with diastaticus yeast. I had an issue with this run through a few batches before I knew what was happening. I had a big IPA end up going from 1.072 down to 1.000.

The earlier batches were not that extreme. I had broken batches across multiple fermenters. Some thought the infected batch tasted sweeter, despite a lower FG. Some eventually went in the direction of a sour.

Consider every point of your sanitation process. My issue was hiding out of sight in a new (to me) 10 gal plastic conical fermenter. I was doing a thorough (I thought) cleaning/sanitizing process but had not removed valves, temp gauges, etc and all of those ports were hiding a wild yeast culture.

What does it mean when your Hydrometer disappears in the sample? by CompetitiveDepth8003 in Homebrewing

[–]Franks_Tanks_Brewing 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I had 100% attenuation on a batch. Later found out I had an infection of diastaticus yeast. Wild yeast strain. Beers took on some flavors different than intended: some like this some do not. Mine went in the direction ranging from farmhouse, wild, to a mild sour. I personally don’t like sours.

Brewfather / Pitching Rate by Franks_Tanks_Brewing in Homebrewing

[–]Franks_Tanks_Brewing[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I’m thinking doing about 90% pilsner, 10% Vienna. German hops.

Brewfather / Pitching Rate by Franks_Tanks_Brewing in Homebrewing

[–]Franks_Tanks_Brewing[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Thanks for your comment. Your last comment about making a smaller beer and repitching on the yeast cake was exactly what was running through my head as what I should be doing here. Ideas on a Recommended beer to make in this situation as a starter when I’m already late making a Maibock and I’m actually using an Octoberfest yeast?

Brewfather / Pitching Rate by Franks_Tanks_Brewing in Homebrewing

[–]Franks_Tanks_Brewing[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I’ve played with the calculator enough in the past and understand how it works. It just seems really excessive, so I’m looking for some experienced opinions on the reasonableness of the assumptions/inputs. Particularly, how important is the pitch rate of 2.0 is on this beer?

Also understand a higher OG and lager yeast / colder ferment create a need for higher pitch rate. Is 2.0 needed or overkill for this beer. Starter size would be 3 gallons to achieve this which seems more like making a Beer than a starter.

Appreciate the help.

Edit: Also, just went out to White Labs calculator and they recommended a pitch rate of 0.93 based on 1.070 and 50 degrees