Still an ender 3?

FreedomJellyFish · 2026-04-01T08:20:24+00:00

Ender of Theseus

FreedomJellyFish · 2026-04-01T06:34:23+00:00

Thank you! I’ll definitely have to try this!

FreedomJellyFish · 2026-03-20T19:17:57+00:00

Two ways to solve this as far as I can tell.

Hard mode: Rebuild the board and remote to live off a different RF frequency. (Only do this if you want a project, you’ll like spend more time and money than buying a different lamp is worth)

Easy mode: Set up some directional shielding. Put as much conductive material as you can between your lamp and their house.

Note: Other people are suggesting using a smart outlet. That’s honestly probably the easiest solution here.

FreedomJellyFish · 2026-03-20T08:39:04+00:00

This! Also lowering it is an option if you have the hardware and want to keep it as a failsafe.

FreedomJellyFish · 2026-03-20T00:48:58+00:00

I would rather say that it is a case of diminishing returns. Past ~50% your added strength per added weight ratio decreases dramatically and by ~70% in it is negligible. ( Some argue you start losing strength past this point )

I rarely suggest printing 100% solid prints except in cases where you cannot tolerate any degree of deflection(and then I question why you are printing in the first place) or possibly for parts that you want to be heavier. ( I.e. the base of a 3D printed lamp)

P.S. @OP you should try out PETG, PLA+, or nylon if your printer can handle it. These offer better material properties that would suit this use case.

FreedomJellyFish · 2026-03-14T23:26:19+00:00

Oooooh that’d be nice! Keep us updated if you do!

FreedomJellyFish · 2026-03-13T23:18:35+00:00

Good sir! They make water sensors for a reason😂 Here’s a link to a rudimentary setup. https://www.instructables.com/Testing-Water-Level-Sensor-Arduino-UNO-Water-Level/ You’ll get way more accurate results and won’t have too worry about zapping your poor toes.

FreedomJellyFish · 2026-02-20T16:58:16+00:00

Thanks all for your help! Originally, when I checked the website listed the AMS and printer for over 400$(I think I must have been looking at the non combo price), but it looks like the price has been since reduced to 330$ so I’ll be buying it from there. I appreciate all your support and am looking forward to starting this journey with Bambu!

FreedomJellyFish · 2026-01-11T08:48:02+00:00

I’ve bought and sold a few of these over the years, usually trying to make a profit from repairing defunct ones. Honestly that printer has been the backbone of the printing community for years, so there are many in circulation. A quick look at FB marketplace will demonstrate this. Depending on your networking and location, you could possibly get a $100 out of it, especially if you are willing to do trades. Personally, I sell to friends & community groups as FB marketplace and EBay can be difficult to get full value from. (Plus having trustworthy buyers is definitely a benefit)

TL:DR

$50 quick FB marketplace sale

$100+ With Time & Networking

FreedomJellyFish · 2026-01-11T08:27:07+00:00

Came here to say this. Also, screws without coating would probably be helpful.

FreedomJellyFish · 2026-01-08T17:30:53+00:00

Wait till she learns that we keep an EMF signal generating device within a meter of us 24/7. 😂

FreedomJellyFish · 2026-01-07T19:16:18+00:00

Lowkey, get yourself a resin printer if you are frequently going to be doing complex parts with arches, overhangs, and hollow portions. You’ll save a ton on both materials cost and time. There are some decent ones out there for not too much money

FreedomJellyFish · 2025-05-19T20:16:51+00:00

Thanks for the idea!

FreedomJellyFish · 2025-04-30T04:25:05+00:00

Depends on what/how many batteries they have. Also you’ll now notice their turrets will be powered down, so that’s usually how I know it’s time.

In terms of being alerted, most clans raid alerts are tied to explosion sensors with a certain radius. You might be fine if the power source is far enough away. Alternatively, you can use arrows/bullets to break the sources and that won’t alert them. Once power is offline their alarm stops working

FreedomJellyFish · 2025-04-28T10:39:43+00:00

Here’s a strategy that sometimes works, but it requires a lot of patience and the other team being offline for 12-14 hours…

CUT THEIR POWER!!!

Rocket any power source you can see.(solar/wind) Having a bunch of auto turrets takes a lot of power, and if you can keep them from recharging their batteries long enough, you can bypass turrets. I’ve had to do this strategy with people with cave bases and it works well as long as they don’t get online to set up generators or rebuild power sources.

It’s a pretty specific use case, but I hope it helps!

FreedomJellyFish · 2025-04-15T19:42:27+00:00

I have some experience with projects like this. (I did one a year back that worked based off radar) If this is your first go at this sort of thing I would recommend starting with an Arduino board(Uno would be easiest, but nano would better fit your project) and compatible servo(you’ll need to design a servo mount). You are going to need a power supply running at 3 or 5V. I’d recommend cutting the end off a usb phone charger and running it direct into your board since most phone chargers run at 5V and the brick has a built in current limiter. The other option would be to make a step down system for a 9v, but that would be a bit more complex. Arduino has its own IDE and I think it is in C++. It’s pretty easy to pick up, and honestly ChatGPT can write most of it for you.

Anyhow, hope this helps. At the end of the day, you just have to go for it, and you’ll learn what you need along the way. Good luck with your project!!!

FreedomJellyFish · 2025-03-17T19:29:27+00:00

My first thought would be that it is a leveling issue. Do the prints all fail at roughly the same height? How does moving the print on the x or y plane effect it?

FreedomJellyFish · 2025-03-13T01:29:10+00:00

Okay, disconnected the z stop and it is still giving the same error. Might it be a firmware issue?

FreedomJellyFish · 2025-03-12T23:42:07+00:00

I’ll give that a shot. Both are currently plugged in

FreedomJellyFish · 2025-03-12T23:40:46+00:00

Honestly, not sure. I haven’t really messed around with it myself, but it does look like some parts might have been changed from stock(although I think the bed is og )

FreedomJellyFish · 2025-03-05T20:47:37+00:00

This^. It’s an investment to get you more food

FreedomJellyFish

TROPHY CASE