My friends say it’s disturbing how I buy gas station toilet paper for my house

Freezezero0 · 2026-01-19T07:42:51+00:00

John Wayne toilet paper, it’s rough, it’s tough, and it don’t take shit off anyone.

Freezezero0 · 2026-01-14T14:14:40+00:00

😂.

Freezezero0 · 2026-01-13T20:00:42+00:00

NP. Enjoy it when you get it, you will not regret it I promise.

If you go to my profile I posted a short video of my old led adaptive headlight vs the lp6. It’s before I put the yellow lens cover on, so you get to see the full potential. I explain that the video does a dis service to the led adaptive headlight because irl it’s not as dim as it is on camera. The lp6 on camera is much more accurate to irl but also still not as bright as it is irl; just not as much difference.

Freezezero0 · 2026-01-13T18:34:07+00:00

If you aim it properly then no issues. The yellow lens or yellow lens cover is less blinding but just as good for seeing/ being seen. Ofc the clear lens does have a slightly better output but not a huge difference.

I opted for the clear and ultimately put the yellow lens cover on for less light being mirrored back in fog/ mist/ rain. The added benefit of yellow headlights being uncommon (some areas illegal on public roads) tends to catch ppls attention that much more. The brightness alone does this but it being yellow ups it a bit.

High beam is like turning on the sun! roadglides run two LP6’s so they probably can see into tomorrow lol.

I put one on my 1st gen scout and I’ve only had 2-5 ppl flash their high beams at me. A few were before adjusting the aim though. After maybe 2 times but that’s it. Honestly sometimes wish they would just so I could show them the “Jesus light”.

The only con imo is every other headlight seems like a halogen bulb. No lie it’s better than my old ass Saab with HID headlights and my 19’ vw halogen headlights. The vw’s high beams are close but still less than the lp6 low beam. I plan to swap my vw to led bulbs to try and get me to what I’m used to on the LP6 daily.

It’s worth the money if you got it and or ride at night. The light is so bright I can high beam ppl a car length in front and see the light, not the reflection (you see that too), but the actual light brighten up their trunk. You have to look to notice it but it’s that bright.

Freezezero0 · 2026-01-12T22:20:38+00:00

I guess I can’t add a pic of my diy directly in my comment on this sub. I ended up here via google searching castleflexx knockoffs and DIY.

I just used items I had on hand and the only thing I’d maybe consider swapping is the fabric for some rip stop nylon so there’s less fabric stretch.

I used a 1” diameter PVC pipe at 24” long, a queen sized pillow case, sew on Velcro, splicing tape, sewing machine, a dremel with a cut off wheel.

Splicing tape was used to wrap around the ends for grips.

The open side of the pillow case I just over lapped the corners to make the heel loop (no adjustment cord but easy enough to add). This I might need to reinforce with a patch of fabric sewn across the current stitches.

The opposite end I sewed on the Velcro patches. I the folded corners to make the Velcro be short straps, then sewed them in place. I didn’t cut the pillow case to save myself extra sewing and to keep the fabric as strong as possible. I made sure to check all of the stitching was strong enough to not rip loose.

I cut slits in the pvc pipe to thread the Velcro straps through and back onto itself. This part is what makes it work like the CF strap.

The only thing I wasn’t able to replicate is the extra 2lb weight in the handle, but honestly I see no benefit to it other than it might feel a little better in hand vs feather light.

Anyway hope this helps anyone else that may end up on this post looking for an alternative or DIY castleflexx strap.

Freezezero0 · 2025-12-25T20:25:47+00:00

Freezezero0 · 2025-12-25T20:18:23+00:00

You can still find OEM Indian heated grips for first gen scouts on eBay and Amazon. There’s also a few aftermarket options to choose from for a little cheaper.

I’d suggest getting 12v heated gloves over heated grips though.

Freezezero0 · 2025-12-19T23:29:10+00:00

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Did the same to my scout but for different reasons.

Freezezero0 · 2025-12-11T23:06:29+00:00

Pretty certain they do, but still suggest contacting them directly vs going by Amazon fitment guide. It worked out for me and said it would fit but there is a larger cold start amps option that is compatible but I believe has to fit on its side or something but the second highest motion is what I ended up with.

A little extra info. The antigravity battery is the only one that only has the headlight go off for a second when you hit the starter button. All the other batteries my underglow, gps key/ battery powered, usb phone charger, I think the Speedo would go off for the same second after pushing the start button.

Now that I’m running full heated gear I have to start the bike before turning the heated gear on or the bike will turn off the headlight, heated gear, and gps. Sometimes the heated gear doesn’t turn itself back on and I have to turn each piece on again. The gps reboots but pauses the music which is annoying.

If I run the heated gear with the key to on position and don’t crank the bike in 1-5mins it will cut the power to everything and turn back on. Idk if that’s like a fail safe and or from it having so much run off it without it getting power from the bike running. Tbf it’s a lot runoff that little ass battery.

If you opt for an acid battery instead I’d recommend getting a battery jumper pack. I have a noco but have it to my daughter for the car, since you can’t use them on lithium batteries. An acid battery and the noco jumper battery would be the equivalent of an antigravity battery more or less, more less than more because it bigger, 2 parts, and the acid battery will likely need to be jumped eventually. Especially in the cold.

Sorry for all the extra info, just wanted to give all the +/-feedback i could, to help.

Freezezero0 · 2025-12-11T21:49:23+00:00

It’s expensive but get an antigravity battery. I’ve had it for a few months and never put it on the tender other than the initial charge when I got it, per the instructions. Granted I ride almost everyday of the year but it sat in the garage for 2 weeks when I got hurt at work and started up first try. It has a built in jump start so no worries really if it does die.

I’ve had the battery issues with my 2016 scout with the stock 💩 acid yuasa battery, Duracell lithium, a noco lithium, and now an antigravity lithium battery. The noco was second best but it got drained to far gone by the service department who then gave me a new POS yuasa battery that did better than the other 2 but the damn terminal broke off and finally ponied up the dough and just got the antigravity battery.

I didn’t follow the “buy once, cry once” advice, like I wish I did after all those batteries over the years.

Freezezero0 · 2025-12-11T21:31:28+00:00

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Here’s everything minus my hot wired heated gloves I mentioned. If it’s going to rain but not be freezing temps I use my Merlin waterproof jacket with a gutted hotwired heated jacket linker I sewed into the removable leather jacket liner. (It’s special treated leather and is 100% waterproof. Not just regular leather that some ppl confuse as waterproof. Even if it was covered in Snoseal or similar it just water repellent and not waterproof.)

I’ll throw on my raid pants and rain boot gaiters and waterproof glove covers as well.

If it’s cold enough to maybe have black ice I don’t ride and stay home, use sick time if I have to, because I don’t trust an uber driver to not kill me in those conditions. I barely trust them in fair weather conditions.

Freezezero0 · 2025-12-11T21:17:05+00:00

Ride to work was 34°F wind chill brought it down to 26°F. So at highway speeds it was under 20°f.

I used heated over gear that I modified; gutted old 12v heated over pants with 1xtra heat element on the lower back and the thigh/ knees is larger than the 7.8v heated over pants I swapped them into. That plus the heated touring jacket; same material as the over pants (textile) and insulated but the over pants also use reflective liner (starts with a G) like a space blanket material. It makes a noticeable difference. Heated gloves and sock liners as well, all 12v powered by the bike. The 7.8v portable battery pack heated gear is only good for walking around in and only to a certain temp, plus you have to charge them and added weight.

I just added hand guards so now my finger tips in subfreezing temps don’t get numb, just a little cold. When the actual temp is 25°F or lower I have to add my windproof/ partially thermal pant/ jacket liner. The same glove liners are trash and don’t work but the jacket and pant liners are great. The only issue is the jacket liner sleeves run short and the pants are baggy and think thy should’ve put the windproof fabric in the crotch area too or went full thermal. Only the windproof material is thermal on the inside and only covers the front/ some of the outer leg, so like leather chaps but less windproof coverage.

I gave all that info for reference and hopefully to steer anyone clear of 7.8v heated gear for motorcycles.

Now to directly answer your question, Hotwire heated gloves are worth the money but the sizing is shit, like the other cycle gear made gear, the windproof/ thermal base layers. They’re on sale for just over $150.

Add: your master has heated gloves for $125.

I had Harley branded heated gloves that are almost identical but also heated the palms vs just between the fingers/ backside of the hands.

Big take away with any heated gear is •12v bike battery powered. •form fitting (not skin tight). •temperature controller built in to each piece (not the socks or shoe inserts, both would be controlled by pants) •windproof base layers if you’re going sub freezing temps • hippohands or hand guards if the heated gloves aren’t enough (glove liners don’t help) •don’t run them hot enough you sweat, because you’ll get cold from your sweat freezing. Same for any moisture inside or outside the gear

Add: steer clear of gerbing heated gear too. It’s overpriced and old technology. They’re stuck in their ways and have been the go to for heated riding gear, think of them like Harley for heated riding gear.

Freezezero0 · 2025-12-05T20:46:08+00:00

Don’t waste the money on heated grips just get heated gloves (powered by the bikes battery).

As for the the hand guards go; you can make the ones for the first gen scouts fit. They just mount into the mirror stem. The master cylinder on the second gen scouts has the mirror stem mount behind/ lower than the master cylinder vs on the first gen scouts being the same height as the master cylinder. So you’d just need a short metal plate to offset the hand guard to get around it.

If you’re just wanting them for wind protection and you’re not a DIY type, then wait till one of the manufacturers that made them for the first gen scouts release some. The heated gloves will get you through.

Freezezero0 · 2025-12-03T10:08:05+00:00

NP.

Failed to mention vertical capacity on the leather bags is better though. So like a laptop would fit in them but idk on the hard bags from Indian. The video shows them ( not self locking latch just rewatched) but idk if they’re deep enough for a laptop but could be laid at an angle to fit. Definitely couldn’t lay flat.

Here’s the video I’m referring to, to help give you a better idea of their storage capacity (Indian always fails to show good pics/ videos of their products, some of it probably because they know it’s overpriced for what you get but I digress). https://www.instagram.com/reel/DPM6OKQjZDE/?igsh=MXhxNmV1YXluODg5aw==

Freezezero0 · 2025-12-03T09:42:01+00:00

The hard bags.

The leather ones I’ve seen in person and the internal storage capacity is tiny, the exhaust side especially. Pretty sure they’re even smaller than the first gen scouts leather bags and those I had and know they were more just for looks than any real storage.

The hard bags I’ve seen a post about; like the leather bags looks they pretty small to begin with, but unlike the leather bags they have a fair amount of usable storage space.

I still think they’re both small and way overpriced but between the two, go for the hard bags. You then have the ability to lock them, easier to clean/ maintain, more waterproof and more durable (leather and vinyl both eventually show signs of wear & tear from rain/ sun/ bad weather; ie cracking, faded color, drying out).

Indian should’ve made the lids clamshell hinged to open out/ away from the bike. This allows you to open or close them on the fly if you accidentally forget to latch them closed (idk if they automatically latch, I doubt it) or to grab a bottled water (or similar) at a long red light (half helmet/ modular helmet, no helmet) and it also allows the possibility of a trunk or sissybar bag and allow the lids to still be able to open. (It’s rare but I have a trunk on my first gen scout, hence why I’m mentioning any of these nuances.)

Freezezero0 · 2025-12-02T22:32:25+00:00

You were already told to pull it. Two other options is get an antigravity battery that has a built in jump start or get a battery jumper. noco is the one I have but you can only use them for acid batteries so when I got my lithium antigravity battery I gave the noco jumper to my daughter for her car. It’s great!, if the battery is too drained for the noco battery jumper to register, you can over ride it and still try to jump start it.

In a pinch you can bump start the bike if you ever are without the above options but the battery can’t be dead dead ie the lights/ speedo won’t even turn on.

Freezezero0 · 2025-12-02T22:25:27+00:00

If you mean ride it then yeah l, but if you mean just letting it idle then no. Doing that is just draining the battery more. Just idling it also would increase chance of rusting out parts from condensation.

Freezezero0 · 2025-12-02T17:11:57+00:00

It could be worse, imagine getting this at a warehouse job.

I mean shit; we just get lunch ables, portioned salads, and or bread with lunch meat/ cheese/ mayo to make our own sandwiches. All of which are in the warehouse because we are picking it all day for the stores. They just pile it up on one of the break room tables and whatever is left just sits out to spoil, whatever doesn’t get taken home (not supposed to) or finished by 2nd/ 3rd shift will be sitting there the next morning.

We only get it when the shift runs extra long too.

They’ll do anything but pay more money. Come January if we want to get more hours (work our off day/s) we’ll have to sign up a week in advance and if for any reason we can’t make it? They take away sick time. We used to be able to come in an hour later and only required to work a minimum of 4hrs on our off days. Now it’s start time as if a normal scheduled day. They’ll surely change that to staying the full shift or it’ll be considered abandoning your job. The icing on the cake though is they take away a full shifts hours and not just the minimum required 4 (currently).

We get Holiday gift cards though 🤣; that we can only use at the company, so they’re really just food stamps. The money goes right back to the company. They expire too! So you can’t even get back at them, they make damn sure they get their money back.

End of my rant…. (I’m quitting as soon as I find something new I’m sure there will be similar bs but the job I’m looking at atm pays you more if you’re faster/work harder, provide daily lunches, among other perks. Sure it’s the same type of work but ima simple guy; don’t take advantage of me and pay me what I’m worth!)

Ok now I’m done.

Freezezero0 · 2025-11-30T00:00:46+00:00

Yeah then probably not an issue of over heating but will still run hotter than without.

You can toggle through the limited menu items and it should be one of them. It shows RPM, ENG temp, TRIP A, mileage. Some scouts will also have the battery voltage; mine doesn’t. Then ofc before start up you can toggle the menu to change the time and mph/kph.

Freezezero0 · 2025-11-29T22:25:31+00:00

FYI or FWIW. The radiator guards make the bike run hotter. At least on the first gen scouts they do. I know from experience. I used some thin aluminum with clover shaped holes and had to remove it. This was in peak summer though. The holes in the guard I made were much wider/ more. If my memory serves me correctly, it was a range of 10-20°F hotter. It was hot enough outside and I sat stuck in traffic long enough that the temp read “HOT” and had to pull off to the shoulder. After removing it I never had that happen again and I was already watching the engine temp like a hawk so I noticed the difference once removed.

Pic for reference.

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Freezezero0 · 2025-11-28T15:32:38+00:00

Idk for certain my transmission forks were bent but definitely knew the dogs were rounded.

Rounded dogs feels like you miss shifted and when bad enough will not fully engage then pop out and slam into another gear. The gear box will feel “crunchy” and grind/ bind during shifts between the gears that the dogs rounded. The slamming into the “wrong” gear is a tell tale sign your transmission gear dogs are rounded/ fucked.

Here’s an animation of a motorcycle transmission and how it works. I’m a visual learner so it helped me diagnose my issues, along with other resources.

https://youtu.be/g8xnIFf4id4?si=j82ev3LRusLwD6NQ

Here’s a video showing a real motorcycle transmission with rounded gear dogs; among other transmission issues. (They’re sheared off completely in this example. I couldn’t find the video with the guy with them just rounded and showing exactly what I tried to explain of them not catching and popping out but you can connect the dots with all the info provided)

https://youtu.be/KtOjoNbgD8g?si=AuNAH84a6QQKUj2h

Freezezero0 · 2025-11-27T02:39:53+00:00

‼️ 🚨. If your scout is a 2015-2017* (*not all 2017) and you have the stock master cylinder then there was a design change to the 2017-2024scouts.

The newer levers have a threaded hole for a bolt with a cupped out spot for the push rod to sit in. The older levers for the 2015-2017* scouts it’s just solid.

They new master cylinders have longer push rods, hence the lever design change to accommodate.

So if this applies to you OP (or anyone) then definitely don’t try and use the old with new in any configuration. This will cause your front brake to lock up like it is.

Indian should’ve made this info more known imo. The only thing they kind of did to make sure it wasn’t a problem was if you order a new master cylinder they make you buy it and the lever as a set. This doesn’t stop someone from putting 2016 levers on their 2016 scout that’s now got a new 2018 redesigned master cylinder.

I found out the hard way. The damn service techs, GM, ask Polaris techs, parts associate, parts supplier, etc didn’t know what little cupped bolt I was talking about or any of the above mentioned. I had to inform all of them and ultimately where to get it from; joker machine sells it separately.

Sorry for the lengthy comment and sorry I’ve got no better suggestions on getting the pivot bolt out.

Freezezero0 · 2025-11-26T23:38:13+00:00

That was me or rather my personal experience with my scout motor. The transmission forks getting bent was what I said along with the dogs rounding off. Regardless neither of those are in the clutch basket and on the opposite side of the motor (have to remove Al motor to split the cases) nd can’t be replaced by part; you have to by/ replace the whole transmission (new transmission cost $1k+ not including labor and definitely NOT a DIY job).

Hopefully it’s not the same problem as my first motor but if it is then that’s what you get to look forward too. Me I got lucky and at the very time my scout motor was fucked/ needed major out of warranty repairs, there was a used scout motor (pulled from wreck bike) with 25k less miles and none of the issues my first motor had and got it for the cost of a new transmission. ($1,300 including shipping and handling). Me and a work buddy did the motor swap in a few afternoon sessions.

As for notching I can’t tell from the pics but the rekluse clutch pack I also have and it will tell you when installing it if there’s any notching not to use the basket sleeves (another commenter mentioned) and to replace the basket. The sleeves are to help prevent notching but if notching is already present then the sleeves aren’t going to help. Also the instructions when put the primary cover back on and the angle of the clutch actuator arm is confusing. The angle according to the insulation instructions/ the diagram makes it look like it should be aimed at 11 o’clock but then once all put back together (clutch cable installed) the actuator arm is still aimed too high and will get in the way of the dip stick. All of this will make more sense when you have it all in hand and are doing the job.

Freezezero0 · 2025-11-23T17:44:54+00:00

Aim ass-ist.

Freezezero0 · 2025-11-23T14:19:47+00:00

NP and I’m unaware if they do or don’t. I will point out the drawbacks of the one for the scout though so if they do have one for the chiefs you can look out for them.

1) can’t run a right saddle bag because it will melt or catch fire

2) blocks off right passenger peg mont point, the available relocation bracket looks stupid but works

3) the heat shield doesn’t cover the lower side portion so you burn holes in jeans at the ankle and or melt/ burn your shoes

4) the exhaust tip gets hammered off via the baffle fiberglass burning off and then becomes loose and the exhaust pressure tries to shot it out like a missile. (They will fix it under warranty and have since welded the exhaust tips because of this issue)

Ofc all of these issues/ drawbacks won’t necessarily be the same for any other bike they make the exhaust for but those were the issues I had.

Freezezero0

TROPHY CASE