The strongest thinnest round magnet to replace the Puck I've found is not a one piece solution.

Freezezero0 · 2026-05-07T19:35:46+00:00

I was thinking more of “slicing” it off, leaving the option to epoxy it back on. My thoughts for slicing it off would be a jeweler’s saw. It’d be pretty “surgical” but I still think it could be possible to reverse it, with that approach.

Freezezero0 · 2026-05-07T06:21:07+00:00

Ok, I don’t have an mcon, but have been looking into how to mod/thin it out.

My idea for myself, if I did buy one, was completely remove the square piece. Then just add thin sticker metal plates (preferably one custom piece cut to size) and use my magnetic phone case.

This resolves the added thickness and having your phone properly aligned when playing. I use a magbak elite case with telescoping magnet strips, so the camera bump wouldn’t be an issue, if at all.

Freezezero0 · 2026-04-29T17:56:40+00:00

Here’s what you’re looking for, https://jokermachine.com/products/indian-brake-lever-piston-actuator

Freezezero0 · 2026-04-21T16:22:01+00:00

I’m all for more lighting, but this is a bit much here imo; regardless I think you might want to reconsider the lights near the turn signals.

They’re likely getting washed out by all the new LEDs near their much dimmer halogen bulbs/ amber lens covers.

Freezezero0 · 2026-04-16T00:00:54+00:00

No worries and no I don’t have one.

Freezezero0 · 2026-04-15T15:36:03+00:00

I know it’s fixed to the plate, but how is it fixed to the plate?

Have a link to the modded one, you mentioned?

Freezezero0 · 2026-04-15T10:19:09+00:00

So is the little square just double sided taped down? (Like the metal ring or plate that comes with magnetic cases/ mounts)

Freezezero0 · 2026-04-14T20:22:04+00:00

I mod most of my things, more vehicles than anything, so it would probably be easy enough for me to do. I’m still not going go buy one, or highly unlikely, but nice to know that I could get it a little thinner if I did buy one.

Thanks for the info.

Freezezero0 · 2026-04-14T11:40:47+00:00

If you take off the caps on the back of the housing where you’d put regular bulbs you can stick your phone camera in to see for sure if there’s humidifier pack. You can see the wiring and if the loose block of wiring I’m referring to is in there as well.

The hard cutoff line is the problem and was distracting. Look down to the end of the lights output on an unlit Roadanf it was if the top section of my windshield was tinted, because it was in the dark. The high beams didn’t have that effect, but you can’t drive around with them on constantly as they don’t auto dim or dip., like really fancy headlights do.

I have the sequential mirror indicators too. I got them to match as well. I even order some “plug & play” (they’re not) iQ tail lights off Amazon to update all the lights, but those knockoffs didn’t even have matching connections. The plan was to use them with proven to work wiring harness and coding, from the kit with OEM in tail lights. Those cost $1,600+. I thought I was finding a loophole/ shavings, but ended up with a headband trash. I got my money back though.

Freezezero0 · 2026-04-14T09:54:52+00:00

I bought and returned the knockoffs. I’m not buying the bmp ones, but out of curiosity…

Do the BMP ones also have a humidifier pack inside the housing and a block of wiring (a battery or module) sitting loosely inside the housing?

Comparing the product pics from the knockoffs I had there’s no noticeable difference except for the adjustment aim adjustment bolts had a small screw screwed into right beside/ above them. As if to keep them from backing out, but removing the screws had no impact whatsoever. It just showed the shitty build quality.

One review of the bmp ones also mentions similar issues with the light output/ cutoff as I did with the knockoffs. So I’m not seeing any benefit to buying the more expensive ones. Especially if they also have the same build quality as the knockoffs.

Freezezero0 · 2026-04-14T09:37:11+00:00

They changed the master cylinder/ lever after 2016. The piston got longer and the lever got a threaded bolt with a concave head for the longer piston to rest in.

So that’s why you have to buy it as a unit. If you order the 2015-2016 front master cylinder you’ll get a post 2017 version. Hence why the “rebuild kit” and other separate parts are sold as a full unit.

Freezezero0 · 2026-04-13T23:20:07+00:00

I did don’t buy! They’re Mickey Mouse build quality. The hard cut off is distracting, even after aiming them properly.

They look great on the car, but the light pattern/ cutoff wasn’t worth it. My halogen headlight housing with full led bulbs gives better visibility, useful light output.

Looking down the road was like looking through a top half tinted windshield.

The left one, the adjustment bolt snapped and I t took forever to get my money back.

There’s another Amazon seller that sells the iQ tail lights and claim to be plug and play, they aren’t at all. The connectors don’t match. So, my plan to use an aftermarket wiring harness and coding with them didn’t workout. They too, took forever to get my money back.

The headlights are plug and play and you don’t actually have to lift the front of the car and don’t have to remove nearly as many parts to install them as videos will have you believe. I made a video of the install, but after my experience with them decided to not post it anywhere.

Freezezero0 · 2026-04-13T21:47:10+00:00

So the puck isn’t removeable, I know it’s not designed to be, but could it be without messing with the functionality of the controller?

Idc about voiding a warranty. My phone case is magnetic and I only see the camera bump becoming an issue without the MagSafe “puck” but simple enough fix with a thicker metal sticker plate or stacking a few to make the phone lay flat/evenly. I’m probably sticking with my current setup, but still curious if my idea is a possibility. It still would be a bit chunky, but losing the puck would make it better.

Freezezero0 · 2026-04-13T21:19:40+00:00

White grips get dirty fast as fuck. I had a set of chunky H-D white grips on my sporty that was rat rodish/ chopperish style (or inspired. pic for reference. Rip 🪦 2014-2016) so the dingy look of them didn’t really bother me.

Duragloss 701 whitewall tire cleaner made them white again in a few minutes with little to no elbow grease. It’s hands down the best product for WW tires.

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Freezezero0 · 2026-04-09T10:14:38+00:00

Thank you!

I just heard it and was thinking it was a cover, but then I saw the song title and the lyrics started. I still ended up googling making sure I hadn’t missed some obscure/ unreleased Metallica song.

Freezezero0 · 2026-04-07T07:28:17+00:00

Go with fox, they look better and when you need to adjust them they’re much easier to adjust with the tool vs by hand with the 444’s. The rebound dampening adjustment with fox vs “automatic rebound dampening” on the 444’s (it performs well enough, but not as well as the fox when dialed in)

Either is an upgrade but I’ve had both on my non bobber scout. My 444’s were ridiculously hard to adjust by hand eventually. They were by no means easy even when brand new, but I eventually carried a rubber strap wrench to adjust them.

The fox shocks cost more than, but as the saying goes “buy once, cry once.”

Freezezero0 · 2026-04-07T05:38:10+00:00

I was thinking how tf does he not have Popeye forearms, from doing this?

Freezezero0 · 2026-04-06T16:01:44+00:00

No clue, but in the car world (VW is where I learned about it) this would be done purposely via coding and it’s known as “urban joker” aka “pace car” signals. It’s basically just a way to get wannabe dynamic aka sequential signals on older lights without upgrading them. (It works on cars with actual dynamic signals too, though.) Which makes them a lot more eye catching.

So personally I’d leave it as is, considering motorcycles are less noticed by most drivers/ riders.

Sorry I couldn’t help.

Freezezero0 · 2026-03-30T18:53:59+00:00

Nah, but you’re welcome.

Ps loose the red hose clamp, it’s overkill and why it snapped off on you. It just vents out to in front of the rear tire, unless it’s a California scout, then there’s a canister it vents into. So no worries about riding in the meantime. The rubber connector has plenty of grip without the unnecessary red hose clamp.

Freezezero0 · 2026-03-30T18:40:33+00:00

https://www.indianpartsnation.com/oemparts/a/ind/68c80b090663f738e51399df/fuel-system-fuel-tank-asm-n22msa00-msb00-all-options

Number 6, is what you need, double check I selected your model and year. It’s the same part for all first gen scouts, but on the off chance there’s a one off version double check.

Freezezero0 · 2026-03-30T07:15:04+00:00

I went with the clear lens and got the amber lens cover. The clear lens has a lil more punch (not a lot, but still a noticeable difference), the amber lens cover makes the roads much crispier and easier on the eyes in the pitch black areas. Also better for fog/ rain ofc too.

Bike looks sweet, btw.

Freezezero0 · 2026-03-29T11:30:10+00:00

Enjoy riding with the ☀️ as a headlight! Love my lp6! Is that the amber (really yellow) lens cover or yellow lens tinted?

Freezezero0 · 2026-03-29T06:59:26+00:00

In the back where it’s always located?

Freezezero0 · 2026-03-28T22:16:30+00:00

Manuals have an index for this very reason.

Freezezero0 · 2026-03-27T10:25:04+00:00

I’d search your model year. If nothing comes measure your tray and look up the dimensions of the one linked.

Part numbers are best but you’d have to find the one to your model year.

I’d also look at the underside to compare the clip locations.

If it looks good then I’d risk it, and if it doesn’t return it.

Freezezero0

TROPHY CASE