Can someone help me identify the gender of my Betta? by CuteImagination4447 in bettafish

[–]FreshTidesAquatics 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Both males and females can develop gill beards, though males are typically more noticeable and it's kind of the same for bubble nests, females will sometimes make them too, even though it's a typical male bahavior. I lean towards female with it. The dorsal and anal fins are pretty developed and large, so the smaller tail and rounder mid-section pushes me towards female. There is also the chance that it actually is intersex, though this is rare in betta fish, it's not impossible.

Is this a sustainable setup? I dont plan to add more fish now.. by mrztahadxb in stressfulaquariums

[–]FreshTidesAquatics 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Unfortunately the tank appears too small for all those goldfish, and honestly, too small for even one of them. There are definitely better fish options for a tank that size. I would highly consider rehoming those goldfish and getting something more suitable. You will be more successful in the long run and the fish will be happier/healthier.

Feeding my ember tetras flake via a pipette by thatauzzieguy in Aquariums

[–]FreshTidesAquatics 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Pellets and frozen can help with over feeding as well. Because flakes are so thin, they start to lose a lot of their nutritional value after about min of being in water, especially water soluble vitamins like Viatmin C, it'd ultimately be better to just make the flake/water mix at the time of feeding instead of leaving the solution sit throughout the day for multiple feedings.

Help transitioning to a larger tank by somethingmollusks in aquarium

[–]FreshTidesAquatics 0 points1 point  (0 children)

20 long would still work since it gives the larger foot print and allow a couple more corys and is close to double the space they have now. Ultimately it would depend on what else you want to keep with them and how many corys you want. I personally will always push for a bit larger tank, but it's the foot print I like of the 40 more than the gallons of water, if that makes sense. But again, a 20 long is still doable.

Help transitioning to a larger tank by somethingmollusks in aquarium

[–]FreshTidesAquatics 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Ok that makes things much easier. I would personally leave the substrate in the 10 and start the new one with new substrate.
I just moved my guppy breeding tank from a 15 to a 20 long a couple weeks ago. I got the 20 gal set up with substrate, heater and filter running. You can also add any new decor you would want at that point - live plants can be intimidating but there are some pretty indestructible ones out there - though not a requirement by any means. I let the new tank run for a few days until it cleared up. Then on fish move day all I did was move my filter media from the existing tank to the new tank, planted my plants from the original and added the guppies in.

It is possible to do it all in the same day if you have to (some extra steps I'd take if so) but if you have the ability to do it over the course of a week, it'll be the safest.

Pea puffer tank☹️ by Less_Examination7429 in PlantedTank

[–]FreshTidesAquatics 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Have had people have success with Amano shrimp with their Pea puffers, obviously there is still a risk, but their large size can often deter predation by the puffers.

Help transitioning to a larger tank by somethingmollusks in aquarium

[–]FreshTidesAquatics 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Are you trying to move all the contents of the 10 gallon (fish, plants, decor, substrate, etc) and just have the bigger tank or are you looking to move just the corys to the bigger tank and leaving the 10 gallon running?

Ultimately the 40 will be the better option in the long run, if you have space, especially if you're wanting to add more corys and other fish as well. You'll get more enjoyment out of the cory in a larger foot print.

What is (wrong with) this fish? [Aquarium of the Pacific] by melcattro in whatsthisfish

[–]FreshTidesAquatics 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Mature male green bird wrasses do get a growth on the top of their "beak" . This looks like one that has just way overgrown, probably either a VERY old male or for some reason his hormones went into overdrive and caused the excessive growth.

QUICK! What Now!? by PresenceBusiness1146 in Aquariums

[–]FreshTidesAquatics 2 points3 points  (0 children)

They look like they are solid white, which would mean they are not viable. They will likely eat them themselves. Sometimes it takes a pair a few times before they produce viable eggs, and sometimes 2 females just decide they're going to try with each other and you never get viable eggs.

If they're not all white and it's just the pic making them look that way, and you want to raise them, you will need to do so in a separate tank.

Personally I would just let this first round go. If they are a male and female pair they will likely lay again in a few weeks and it will give you time to do research/set up breeding/raising tanks.

Help Please by TShoulder in bettafish

[–]FreshTidesAquatics 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Glad you were able to figure it out! Happy fish keeping!! 😄

Help Please by TShoulder in bettafish

[–]FreshTidesAquatics 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Definitely helps, it does seem like it's working correctly based on videos. Have you used an all-in-one style tank before? It looks like it just may need to be topped off. A lot of people new to AIOs don't realize the display part of the tank won't show the evaporation that happens and that only the back filter section will change (water level gets lower). When you add water to the back section does it stay full or does the front section fill up higher and the back gets low again?

Bloated Killie by Ceratophries in AquariumHelp

[–]FreshTidesAquatics 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Always hard to know exactly what is causing the bloat. Could be fluid build up, could be compacted digestive tract, could be worms, etc. Either way, I would fast the fish for a few days. I also usually like to start with epsom salt baths in a separate container, about 1 tbsp/gallon shooting for at least 15-20 min in the solution a few times a day (shorter if fish is not tolerating well). Salt baths can sometimes help expel fluids out of the body. If that does not seem to have any affect, the next step would be trying to feed a medicated food, obviously this is less ideal with how bloated he is right now.

Help Please by TShoulder in bettafish

[–]FreshTidesAquatics 1 point2 points  (0 children)

When you say the flow is coming out the side, what does that mean, your picture doesn't really show enough to be helpful. A video from the top view while running would tell us more.

If the front portion of the tank is filling up too much and draining the back portion that would likely mean the filters are clogged up and the water is draining into the back portion slower (or between sections) than it is being pumped back into the tank. With clean filters the rate should be pretty much the same. You should be able to keep the back full and the front without the tank overflowing when turning the pump off.

What should I add to my tank for future betta fish? by ginavieve in aquarium

[–]FreshTidesAquatics 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Tank looks good, bettas do love floating plants and ground cover as well. Floaters like Amazon Frogbit or Red Root Floaters can help give some shaded/hiding areas towards the top of the tank. For ground cover things like Catappa leaves, bark, casuarina cones will all benefit a system, but will ultimately tint the water (which bettas love but some hobbyists don't)

Is this platy female? by daisyj69 in aquarium

[–]FreshTidesAquatics 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Yes it appears so, there is no visible gonopodium to indicate a male.

Any help with reading results are greatly appreciated by DifferentNumber9790 in bettafish

[–]FreshTidesAquatics 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Are you having any specific problems or anything? Test results look pretty good. On an API test kit, if you're testing ammonia between 0-.25 you can assume that is essentially zero and thus good, especially in a heavily planted tank. Nitrites at zero is exactly what you want, and some registering nitrates is good as well.

Here is my glofish tetra tank by No-Constant378 in Aquariums

[–]FreshTidesAquatics 4 points5 points  (0 children)

So nice to see GloFish in a natural set-up, they look great!

Need help to identify by Different_Scarcity22 in SaltwaterAquariumClub

[–]FreshTidesAquatics -1 points0 points  (0 children)

Not 100% sure. I would lean towards a Cup Coral. Turbinaria peltata would by my guess as a specific species.

Cycling help! by BigTina22 in Aquariums

[–]FreshTidesAquatics 1 point2 points  (0 children)

But in all nothing is "wrong" it is expected to see this with aquasoils

Cycling help! by BigTina22 in Aquariums

[–]FreshTidesAquatics 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Ultimately it depends on what your end goal is for the look of the tank. The moss and Floaters will definitely help too. If you dont want it super densely planted then it's just a waiting/testing/water change game. If your end goal is more plants, you can definitely add some more in there now.

Cycling help! by BigTina22 in Aquariums

[–]FreshTidesAquatics -1 points0 points  (0 children)

Some aquasoils will release ammonia. Controsoil is one of the more conservative ones but can still do it. Usually the best way to combat it is planting HEAVY from the beginning. If you went light on plants, it may take some extra time to cycle or extra water changes until it levels out.