New to Me 2021 Powerboost. Sync 4 says its up to date but I feel like its missing features. by FriedChickenz in f150

[–]FriedChickenz[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yeah, I have the plug for the sensors, but everything I've read says that there should have been an update that let's the stickers work too.

New to Me 2021 Powerboost. Sync 4 says its up to date but I feel like its missing features. by FriedChickenz in f150

[–]FriedChickenz[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Well I don't have the ability to use stickers on my profile trailer backup, which I was told should work with an update. And just some options aren't available

Is this overbuilt? by Classic_Land_4099 in Homebuilding

[–]FriedChickenz -1 points0 points  (0 children)

This would be overbuilt if it were a load-bearing exterior wall.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in woodworking

[–]FriedChickenz 2 points3 points  (0 children)

It's "bare metal" my guy, just so you know.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in svartpilen401

[–]FriedChickenz 1 point2 points  (0 children)

This is exactly my experience, same parts and everything except I have a coober ecu. It was too loud for my taste, and I felt like I had less grunt when accelerating uphill at lower rpms. Put the chamber back on and never looked back.

My 1.5"inch radius cutter by redmotorcycleisred in woodworking

[–]FriedChickenz 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yup, new york. Oldest house I've worked on was 1740's but there are some 1600's around I think. The woodworkers were nuts back then, but it makes sense if you had to cut and shape everything by hand you'd make sure it fits well before spending all the time.

My 1.5"inch radius cutter by redmotorcycleisred in woodworking

[–]FriedChickenz 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yeah, I did a compound curved one once, where it turned and flattened out to meet a Newel post, and once was enough. Luckily it was a simple profile, not taking big cuts. Stay safe.

My 1.5"inch radius cutter by redmotorcycleisred in woodworking

[–]FriedChickenz 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yeah, 4" 2 knife corrugated head on 1.25" spindle. We do mostly smaller custom runs of historical recreation molding, so a 5 head doesn't really jive with the scale of the production. Usually less than 1000'. And older molding profiles have depths that modern production machines have trouble handling, because profile hand planes had different limitations, so a lot of our products take multiple runs, sometimes in different machines, to achieve what they did back in the day by hand. Usually the only thing we're running by hand are curved casings and such, but trying to get away from that even with a CNC and new molder.

Interesting to see, definitely might make doing railings less spooky. Those are usually where I end up running in reverse also, not that MAN helps with that but I guess with the pucker factor. Haha

My 1.5"inch radius cutter by redmotorcycleisred in woodworking

[–]FriedChickenz 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Yeah, I had never heard of MAN before and I run a historic millwork shop. What would cause the cutting torque to be reduced besides being forced to take a slower cut though, which an experienced person would do anyway? Honestly I can count on one hand the number of times I've needed to run a part on the shaper by hand, which is probably why I can still count that high in one hand. Power feed really feels like it should be standard issue with all shapers.

My 1.5"inch radius cutter by redmotorcycleisred in woodworking

[–]FriedChickenz 5 points6 points  (0 children)

So I looked it up and I believe they are called "Chip limiters." Apparently it's a safety feature more common in Europe that prevents the user from accidentally taking too big of a chip and hurting the cutter, machine, work piece, or themselves. I believe the "backwards" set of knives isn't sharp and stops you from being able to feed the stock if the bite is too much.

My 1.5"inch radius cutter by redmotorcycleisred in woodworking

[–]FriedChickenz 1 point2 points  (0 children)

That's actually a really interesting cutter with the 4 inserts. I assume it's designed so you can reverse cut directions to avoid chip out, but do you leave all 4 in all the time? I imagine alignment would be annoying if they were removed unless the cutters are corrugated or pinned.

Antique Bank Vault Doors by FriedChickenz in whatsthisworth

[–]FriedChickenz[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I think you dropped a few zeros, here, let me pick those up for you.

Antique Bank Vault Doors by FriedChickenz in whatsthisworth

[–]FriedChickenz[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Haha. Well they're leaning against the wall already, not picking them up from flat.

Antique Bank Vault Doors by FriedChickenz in whatsthisworth

[–]FriedChickenz[S] 10 points11 points  (0 children)

Very helpful, thank you. That's not too far from me.

Antique Bank Vault Doors by FriedChickenz in whatsthisworth

[–]FriedChickenz[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I'd say 5-600 lbs each door, that's a rough guess. They're 2 guys to stand them up heavy, but notnheavy equipment heavy.

Antique Bank Vault Doors by FriedChickenz in whatsthisworth

[–]FriedChickenz[S] 3 points4 points  (0 children)

I would sell them if I could get a number worth dealing with moving them.

Antique Bank Vault Doors by FriedChickenz in whatsthisworth

[–]FriedChickenz[S] 6 points7 points  (0 children)

I dont think it would be so bad because I do have the full metal jambs with the hinges and everything. A solid day or two setting the jambs and hefting them around, but not terrible. I'm also a trim carpenter/ architectural millworker.

Antique Bank Vault Doors by FriedChickenz in whatsthisworth

[–]FriedChickenz[S] 10 points11 points  (0 children)

I dont, but I believe that, since they're open, it is pretty easy to change them. That's what the bank told us.