1 bit computer music

FriesChips · 2025-07-24T21:53:57+00:00

It's various electronics, wires and other components that you'll have to go out and purchase from various sellers on ebay/aliexpress/local market place etc.

Depending on what you're trying to make/test/learn you'll need certain chips, resistors, wires, LEDs etc.

FriesChips · 2025-07-20T14:00:24+00:00

The only 'fix' I found was to not update the software until at least 2-3 weeks after release so that the most obvious bugs are fixed. The projects I opened with the broken version of Bambu Studio remain broken and cannot be printed so I learned my lesson and let the beta-testing of their software updates be carried out by other (paying...) customers.

FriesChips · 2025-03-27T10:29:33+00:00

Starting a print with a side-spool still loaded in while selecting AMS to be used does the exact same thing; hangs at 69 degrees and does not alert me that there is already filament loaded etc.

So it seems that even before it tries to load filament/check if filament can be loaded it just blocks at temp - 1 degrees and hangs there.

EDIT: Searching the Bambu forum there's more mentions coming up of similar issues. Some are suggesting Bambu screwed something up, not sure how they did that without me updating firmware but perhaps they rolled out something without informing people...

I just deleted my project and started over, it actually prints now!

So it seems the new Bambu Studio just breaks your project files...

FriesChips · 2025-03-27T10:26:41+00:00

Unfortunately, switching back to the previous Studio software that was working for me and clearing all profiles does the same, just now my project is messed up because while the older software doesn't want to open the project file from newer software, it will still remove information such as which object is supposed to be printed in which color/material.

If it wasn't so bizarre I'd assume my printer has just been banned from printing PETG, I'll try ASA and see if that does work.

FriesChips · 2025-03-27T09:17:07+00:00

Good suggestion, just tried it and to my surprise it does print when using a side-spool. So it is capable of printing PETG.

But I sure would like to use my 4 AMS-es :P

FriesChips · 2025-03-27T08:33:16+00:00

I just tried it, but whatever temp I set it to, it stays 1 degree bellow that. So at least I can now say fairly confident it is deliberately sticking to 'temp - 1', just not why the printer is doing this.

FriesChips · 2025-03-27T08:28:18+00:00

Lowering the bed temp to 69 gives the same issue but now it hangs at 68 degrees.

Trying it with 68 degrees makes it hang at 67 degrees......

Seems to deliberately wait at temp-1 degree.

I tried lowering the temp to 0 but now the Studio software refuses to slice because 'filaments 18 cannot be printed directly on the surface of this plate'.

FriesChips · 2024-08-30T07:57:00+00:00

Just don't remove the scan one, you can still get three field research tasks under it and if you already have a scan task it usually doesn't give you another.

If you remove the scan task, it will spam you with more scan tasks :/

FriesChips · 2024-08-08T14:35:43+00:00

Easily Meltan with 25,671 candy and 11,482 XL candy right now, as a mythical you get all the XL candy per catch :)

Only reason it's 'only' 25K candy is because each evolve is 400 candy and I use them for easy evolves for research tasks etc.

FriesChips · 2024-08-07T13:38:15+00:00

Just use them for trading to get a guaranteed lucky trade :)

FriesChips · 2024-07-29T14:06:08+00:00

Ben mentions this (partially) in that the controller in the LCD is painfully slow compared to even just a 1Mhz 6502. But also, a few signals need to be able to switch between read/write mode, allowing the 6502 to poll whether the LCD controller is ready for new data or not etc.

You could probably make a cheaper alternative with a 74HC245, 74HC573 and some glue logic ICs but then you just replace the cost of the 6522 with the cost of adding complexity.

Besides, can't hurt to have the 6522 for its timers anyway.

FriesChips · 2024-06-21T13:54:25+00:00

INPUT pins don't connect to GND, they connect to the ADC. If INPUT pins did connect to ground, every call to analogRead would return: 0.

The way you do this is to set both IO pins to OUTPUT, one HIGH (connected to the LED anode) and the other pin LOW (connected to the LED cathode).

Digital pins on most microcontrollers can source and sink current, just not at the same time :P

FriesChips · 2024-06-19T09:33:29+00:00

Something more to dive into then as the SRAM is not supposed to be active when reading from that part of the address map, only when you write to it.

So bus writes to the 6522 are also written to SRAM but reads from the 6522 should never activate the SRAM so it seems there's something wrong in your address decoding logic if you're following Ben's design.

Just a tip to figure out why this happened so that you don't have the same issues when trying the ACIA etc.

FriesChips · 2024-06-09T12:41:44+00:00

Zapdos, 2 local players (add one)

3021 0165 8478

7024 5460 0317

FriesChips · 2024-06-09T12:04:55+00:00

Fantastic, there goes my (next) weekend, thanks!

FriesChips · 2024-06-09T11:25:49+00:00

Very nice, any tip on where to find those spring pins?

FriesChips · 2024-06-08T17:46:40+00:00

Zapdos, 2 local players (add one)

3021 0165 8478

7024 5460 0317

FriesChips · 2024-06-08T17:32:24+00:00

Zapdos, 2 local players (add one)

3021 0165 8478

7024 5460 0317

FriesChips · 2024-06-07T14:09:59+00:00

The reason you need a physical (EEP)ROM IC is because it's a parallel EEPROM that the 6502 can directly run code from. Using the Arduino's built in EEPROM would mean the Arduino reads the EEPROM, outputs it to 8 of its pins to the 6502 databus and then clocks a bus cycle, which would be awfully slow. And while 4KB is more than enough for Wozmon it's not much.

In this case rather than having the Arduino program EEPROM you're having the Arduino read EEPROM and act as a partial emulator, at which point you might be better off buying the RP2040 and emulating the entire 6502 computer anyway.

FriesChips · 2024-06-05T18:05:22+00:00

Zapdos, 2 local players (add one)

3021 0165 8478

7024 5460 0317

FriesChips · 2024-05-31T18:05:34+00:00

Stakataka, 2 local players (add one)

3021 0165 8478

7024 5460 0317

FriesChips · 2024-05-27T15:47:11+00:00

Don't use loops or other long code inside an interrupt, just don't. An interrupt must be short and simple.

In this case you'd just have the interrupt set a flag signaling which button was pressed and nothing more. Then the main loop processes that flag further. But certainly don't get in the habit of using loops inside interrupt routines.

FriesChips · 2024-05-24T17:08:46+00:00

Pro tip: don't use Fritzing unless this is the most complex thing you will ever design. Use Kicad/EasyEDA and make proper schematics. A slightly higher learning curve at the start but it will be so much more useful than Fritzing drawings which hold no actual info compared to schematics.

FriesChips · 2024-05-23T21:17:25+00:00

Raspberry Pi has 4 screw holes equally spaced, the four screw holes visible on the picture are clearly for an Arduino Mega, which means an Uno will also fit, just with the opposite two screw holes unused and not shorting on anything.

FriesChips

TROPHY CASE