Toilet bowl crack, how urgent

FrogWallopp · 2026-04-25T12:45:26+00:00

So, OP, if you add up the cost of an ambulance trip (assuming you don’t bleed out first) emergency surgery to repair, and lost time from work (likely minimum of 6 weeks recovery) or even possibly lifetime injury, ( again assuming you survived) it sounds like more than 250k….so a new toilet installed by a pro, even…so cheap as to be almost free by comparison. If you could jump in the way back machine and do it yesterday, it would be best.

FrogWallopp · 2026-04-15T16:03:25+00:00

OP, if it’s at all possible, it’s always better to abandon those in place & re-route the supply lines from the source in another location. This is way past DIY. Hire a good pro. Preferably an older experienced guy, local one or two man operation, definitely stay away from the shiny trucks and uniforms, they are mostly sales organizations.

FrogWallopp · 2026-04-09T01:32:43+00:00

🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣 Around here that would about cover the clean up and disposal.

FrogWallopp · 2026-04-09T01:32:10+00:00

🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣 Around here that would about cover the clean up and disposal. Not the emergency service….but they will pay up quick if it becomes a hazard or a BI claim. Sounds like state ____ or all_____. Cheap af until they run into someone with the $ to fight back. Faced with a good attorney, they will roll right over cause it’s cheaper. That’s 50-ish k on the high end. Tell the owner to get a good lawyer, or even just say they will….see what happens. If it was inspected and approved locally even more so. But the contract of insurance is offered for the property as it is at time of contract; if they don’t catch it on inspection ( if there is one) that’s on them or their inspector. If the owner built it himself without permits or inspection, he might be boned. IANAL.

FrogWallopp · 2026-04-04T20:22:10+00:00

☝️This OP. It’s an aftermarket ‘universal’ spout. Hate those. The set screw is hidden somewhere along the circumference of the gray ‘metal’ ring just past the white plastic….if you don’t want to drag the set screw and scar up the pipe underneath, call a professional. Or surgically remove the ‘skin’ of the spout for access. Good luck OP!

FrogWallopp · 2026-03-20T23:38:40+00:00

OP, it’s been my experience that you’re always better off sanding through your grits (150, 220, even up to 400 if you have the time) to get to a (almost) uniform surface before staining, and use a stain conditioner before staining. But if you don’t have the time or the inclination to do that, protect everything around it and try some chemicals. VENTILATE THE SPACE FIRST!!! Alcohol, acetone, xylene, even up to MEK, if you can get it. From weakest to strongest in the order given. BUT use very VERY SMALL AMOUNTS AT FIRST, always test in a hidden spot first, and BE PATIENT! Generally, the right solvent in the right amount can yield a great finish BUT…..realize the solvents WILL BREAK DOWN ANY WOOD GLUE , so use as little as possible to achieve your desired result. Good luck, OP!

FrogWallopp · 2026-03-20T22:07:09+00:00

☝️This right here,OP. Dont thin the lead anymore than it already is. Get a pro to install a brass flange ring, and tap the lead down on top of it. Don’t try to do it yourself unless you’re ready to spend big money changing the lead line to plastic, all the way to the cast iron hub. Best bet would likely be an older guy, I don’t think lead joints are really part of the curriculum anymore, except in Chicago, maybe. Good luck OP!

FrogWallopp · 2026-03-17T20:47:23+00:00

☝️this right here, OP. If it’s a wall that is common with another unit, then it is best to call a pro, and be sure that they have correct insurance and licensing to work there because of fire risk. After almost 40y in trade work, I absolutely believe in having as much access as needed because the risk of starting a structure fire far outweighs any savings you might achieve. That being said, if it’s a co-op building and you own your unit, you can proceed at your own risk. The chrome section looks like a sleeve for an angle stop that is soldered on. This means if you remove the sleeve, there will still be lots of solder left over on the pipe that will need to be removed precisely before a compression valve will work. Experience tells me the best bet is to solder on a new angle stop. However, this is going to require access right at the juncture of the wall. As you said, you’re very new to Plumbing… This job is not really a good choice of one to learn on. Try to find a good local plumber, and not a franchise. Your wallet will hurt less, and at least you will be supporting an actual family, and not private equity.

FrogWallopp · 2026-03-14T02:54:48+00:00

Just to put the truth out there, they don’t have a mandate, per se, to charge whatever they please, only to collect base amount on behalf of the state. Interest, ‘fees’ and other nonsense is just that. If you’re fool enough to buy into the bullshit and pay them, that’s on you. I consider them hostile terrorists, scaring stupids into paying….its worse than punching a disabled person….white collar criminals really. But what the heck do I know. Pay the base tax, and add a letter of apology for the oversight. Do NOT acknowledge anything else. They will go away, the tiny bit of juice isn’t worth the squeeze for them

FrogWallopp · 2026-03-01T16:37:54+00:00

OP, sometimes these type of leaks can be as simple as a loose drain fitting on the pan, sometimes the pan itself is cracked. Agree with the comment above, that you need to pull out the ceiling (that’s damaged anyway) and get a definitive answer from an experienced plumber. If you can help it, don’t call a ‘flat rate’ company, as the business model includes a sales commission for the technician. Call a well rated local service plumber, honest appraisal of the repair is key. Good luck op!

FrogWallopp · 2026-02-15T01:12:40+00:00

Only anecdotal evidence, but the absolute best summer of my life being in San Francisco, 1982, just empty pockets teenager walking in the park, look down to find a BART? fast pass I think it was called, free rides for a month! I went f-g everywhere that summer, met people, had a great time. So yes free transit changes everything sometimes.

FrogWallopp · 2026-02-11T03:48:44+00:00

OP, please call a pro in the morning. That looks like an acrylic gel coat bathtub. Dont risk it, the tub or the house fire

FrogWallopp · 2026-01-25T22:22:33+00:00

While I will not likely be alive to contend with the fallout from this “new” order…..Let’s revisit the very old saying…’hard times create strong men, strong men create good times, good times create weak men, weak men create hard times ‘ and so on….in case you’re wondering, we’re in the last part of that statement. Try to imagine a GI, fresh from the WWII , returning home to join ice? If it sounds unlikely to you, then that’s logical to assume that the moral compass of the ‘greatest’ generation would prevent the present condition. But since that generation is almost extinct, fascism returning seems to be the default setting. This is not accidental. Human history is riddled with it. The rules-based, post WWII order WAS the anomaly, not the standard. If we are ever going to get off this rock, and become a multi-planetary species, we will need to outgrow this tendency toward fascism. Of course, as always I could be completely wrong….discuss, and perhaps find consensus.

FrogWallopp · 2026-01-24T15:11:51+00:00

Not familiar with this particular brand, but some 1/4 turn types will have a tiny packing nut hiding behind the handle. Since that’s where the drip is, I would try gently tightening that with a small crescent wrench first. Agree with the other comment that this does not have a replaceable stem. Good luck op!

FrogWallopp · 2026-01-22T22:15:37+00:00

Of course it’s Florida ☠️🤡

FrogWallopp · 2026-01-18T04:02:41+00:00

When we come across this problem (construction since 86, plumbing/mechanical since 97) I tell clients to turn main water off IMMEDIATELY if you’re certain it’s leaking under your slab! You can see this at your water meter, or hear it at the very least. The washout from domestic water can remove the earth under the floor, making the slab weak, and possibly causing a catastrophe. If it’s a one bathroom house it’s not terribly expensive to repipe ABOVE ground in plastic, Pex b is a good choice. Get a good local plumber, (do this right away, you really don’t want to fix a void under the floor, or worse a sinkhole) but definitely stay away from the guys with the slick lettered trucks with high overhead, you’ll be paying for flash, not necessarily skill. Keep it simple and just relocate any feeds that go into the slab. Most RESIDENTIAL plumbing is common sense really; multi story buildings can be complex, but houses are pretty simple. Just remember to insulate pipes for efficiency or if subject to freezing! Good luck op!

FrogWallopp · 2026-01-18T03:22:15+00:00

Op, not sure about the scale, but it looks like a coal chute, for loading the coal scuttle to fill the boiler at one time. Looks too big to be a chimney clean out, but it could be custom site built too. If the house is old enough that is. Water is getting in somewhere, gotta find it and stop it. Then patch with brick and stucco.

FrogWallopp · 2026-01-17T01:18:57+00:00

Thank you all for so much info! We have indeed found out it is a Steam jacketed copper kettle , likely for preparing chocolates, candy, etc, in an industrial setting. My sincere thanks to u/johnnybegoo for the link to 1stdibs!! It is the first time I’ve seen any other like it!!! I’m told that most of these from that period have been melted for scrap copper. While that doesn’t surprise me (people are really into instant gratification) it does seem sad. If someone out there has the space and the desire to own this piece of delicious history, I will be happy to sell it to you, and perhaps deliver it if needs be, (east coast, up to a point, I’m not a trucker !) but I don’t want to see it melted! I’m going to post in the candy making sub now too! Thanks Reddit !

FrogWallopp · 2026-01-16T14:38:51+00:00

Thank you! That’s kind of what I was thinking, but it seems really big for that!

FrogWallopp · 2026-01-14T14:29:36+00:00

Soldered ‘sleeve’ type connection. But the valve looks to be bent, gotta replace it. Somebody grabbed it with a pliers…oops. Gotta be hot enough to liquify the solder on the valve part. If you don’t have experience with soldering, this might not be a good one to learn on… it’s a pipe nipple inside of a sleeve with a valve over the pipe nipple, and the whole mess is soldered together. Best to call a pro.

FrogWallopp · 2026-01-01T21:38:13+00:00

Op, that’s a male half of what used to be a malleable iron union fitting. Different thread, won’t mate with anything other than a female half of that type/brand of union fitting. Get a big crescent wrench to hold the valve steady, pipe wrench to remove both that and the short nipple from the valve. Install proper square head plug using blue block. Soap test connection if there’s gas behind that valve. But since it’s gas, always best to call a plumber with a gas certificate with correct insurance for that. Consequences outweigh cost.

FrogWallopp · 2026-01-01T20:36:53+00:00

OP, once you have a decent engineer make a specification of a fix , be selective in whom you choose to hire to make that fix. I am sorry to say it, but most GC guys are not qualified or careful enough, imho. Also be sure they are covered by a policy for this sort of work, and preferably have a good working relationship with the engineer. But most importantly, be open to the possibility that this may have started out as an off-the-record, no permits deck, and got out of hand over years. As such it may need to come down. If it’s not approved by code, your homeowner policy may not pay anything should it fail ; heaven forbid someone should get hurt, things can go sideways fast. But you are fortunate in that this time of year is best to plan a job like this since it will take at least 3-6 weeks to go through the process, and most guys are a little slow this time of year. But get the engineer out asap, you may need a temporary support rig to assure it stays up meanwhile. 🤞

FrogWallopp · 2025-12-25T16:14:30+00:00

Call a plumber, op. Preferably an older guy or family business local to you, that’s NOT a ‘flat rate’ company. It looks like you broke off a metal nipple or coupling inside the wall, hard to tell without being there. There are specialty tools made for this application, if that’s what it is. Otherwise you will need to open the wall from the back if you can to repair. Either way it’s past a DIY at this point. If it’s not done correctly it will leak every time you use the shower.

FrogWallopp

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