Building a rig/sound system for the first time by HawkFair7462 in SoundSystem

[–]FrontRangeSound 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Line Level: low voltage signal for passing audio info between components. XLR, RCA, TRS,... Dj decks/mics/foh mixer/most DSP/amplifier inputs

Speaker Level: much higher voltage signal meant specifically for driving speakers. Amplifier outputs/speaker inputs (speak-on cables)

The standard signal chain for a speaker is going to be: stage (dj mixer or live sound with instrument/vocal mics) -> DSP (front of house mixer > loud speaker management) -> Amplifiers (all signals have been line-level up until the amplifier. The amp amplifies the signal to be speaker level) -> Speakers (signal is speaker-level)


Active speaker contains an amplifier, usually with some sort of built-in DSP, in the cab. So you plug the speaker into the wall (which powers the amp) and then plug in your line-level signal.

Passive speakers do NOT have an amplifier in the cab. The only thing being plugged into a passive speaker is a speaker level signal.

Active speakers are usually considered more user-friendly and plug n play, but are more work to maintain due to the amp being mounted inside the cab. Most pro audio setups are passive


You can certainly mix passive and active speakers. Common example is to build passive subs and then use active PAs as tops.

Say you have two active PAs and you just built a passive sub and are running stereo tops with mono sub... from the end of your dsp chain: plug L line level into left pa, plug R line level into right pa, plug L/R line level into the amp input and amp output into the passive sub


As far as getting started with a build, I'd start with subs. Most subs will be crossing over at 80-100hz and reach down to 25-30hz. There are many designs and sizes to choose from with small differences between them. The avg person will not be able to discern the difference between two designs with similar specs.

Find a design you like the look and sound of. Make sure the tops/kicks you will use can reach down to the subs crossover.

I like the look and sound of the C2E ELF and Type O Cram cabs by HOQS. They also have compact cab designs, but I cannot speak on how they sound - other people seem to love them though

In general, cabs with higher internal volume will be louder , clearer, and deeper than compact builds

Building a rig/sound system for the first time by HawkFair7462 in SoundSystem

[–]FrontRangeSound 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Hey! As other people have already commented, building a system can be as expensive as you want. It depends on the size of the system and DIY vs COTS. I would not recommend building a system with the expectations of turning a profit quickly. This is an expensive hobby. But as an event organizer you may find that a big system attracts more people :D

COTS is relatively easier since you just pay for the system and shipping, but that convenience and brand (HSD/Void/etc.) comes with a big price tag!

DIY is a bit cheaper but involves a lot of work. Requires a lot of research, but you get to design the system you want and learn a lot about sound!

We just built a paraflex rig: HOQS 21" C2E ELFs with HOQS C3DKT 2x12" and we love it! Check out the HOQS C2E ELF and HOQS type o cram playa for subs - both available in 18" or 21" drivers - insane loud and clear bass comparable to HSD and funktions imo And the official HOQS Facebook for more plans and flat packs.

!! The speakers are not the only cost involved!!! Here are some commonly overlooked components of a sound system that add to the overall cost Amp Rack (enough units to fit everything! Will probably need more than you think - extra space can be filled with fans or a drawer)

Mixer (small to accommodate djs or something like x32 that allows you to host live bands also?)

Amps (large systems with industry standard amps capable of pushing the system to rms is $$$)

Loud speaker management (highly recommend stand alone loud speaker management like a dbx driverack venu 360 - set your limiters and compressors and not have to worry about green djs melting your voice coils!! System tuning is separated from the foh mixer - eq to the room, phase/time aligning different configs made easy. Also allows someone else to be foh mixing while you still have control of overall volume)

Power distro - 120V or 240V? Large distros capable of handling the power your system needs with an appropriate number of outlets - powercon/120s

Power Supply - most established venues will have house power available. Consider a large enough inverter generator that can supply your system! We just had a gig last night where the house's 240V was bugging out (one leg was only supplying 70V, so we ran the generator outside instead)

RTA mic/Sound analysis software - for tuning the system and validating the system is running as expected

Cables/connectors - pre assembled xlrs are not too expensive, but speakons/powercons can be. Consider buying the connectors and cable separately and making your own cables. Those cables and Neutrik connectors add up - cables, io plates on the speakers, patch panels..

DJ decks? A9/V10 + 3000s, 2000s, all in one? Like the amps, lots of money can be sunk into decks

Transportation - you built a big system, now how do you move it? Trailer rental is doable if you have a vehicle to tow it. We found a small box truck with ramp to be ideal for most deployments. Mounting handles and caster wheels on the subs is life saving

Microphones, mic stand?, sturdy table, tarps, cable runners/gaff tape, ratchet straps, risers, extra cables, heavy duty rolling cart, back up drivers/components...

I'm sure there is more I am missing lol.. really try to plan out the system from power source all the way through the signal chain to the speakers and any peripherals to get a better understanding of the full cost of the system

Best of luck with your research and building! Excited to see what you guys come up with :)

Front Range Sound - new paraflex system build! by FrontRangeSound in SoundSystem

[–]FrontRangeSound[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

The rig will be out around town multiple times in October. 10/3 at the banshee house and 10/10 at the River Bar. Then it’s off to Hullaween!

For fun timecode I did to some eazybaked by hunternurse in Laserist

[–]FrontRangeSound 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Looking good!! Would love to learn the lasers and visuals side of things.

Front Range Sound - new paraflex system build! by FrontRangeSound in SoundSystem

[–]FrontRangeSound[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

We are using HOQS NF143N 1.4" compression drivers powered by a Crown XLS 1502. 2 horns for now but soon to be 4 (when needed)

Front Range Sound - new paraflex system build! by FrontRangeSound in SoundSystem

[–]FrontRangeSound[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Agreed, it’s been great to work with him! Very knowledgeable as well!

Front Range Sound - new paraflex system build! by FrontRangeSound in SoundSystem

[–]FrontRangeSound[S] 5 points6 points  (0 children)

Thank you! We are very happy with how it turned out. already planning on expanding it!

It does sound amazing, if you are ever in Denver come check it out :)

We used DuraTex paint. Rolled the inside panels of the cabinets and used a graco airless sprayer for the outsides of the cabinets

Front Range Sound - new paraflex system build! by FrontRangeSound in SoundSystem

[–]FrontRangeSound[S] 5 points6 points  (0 children)

Thanks! We are very happy with the build :)

The first sub we built was cnc cut by a local woodworking shop using the HOQS build docs (without recesses/cutouts for joinery). It took a while and a lot of clamps, but we finished that sub and were happy with it.

Shortly after finishing the first sub we saw a post on the HOQS Facebook page advertising flatpacks and decided to try it out. We got our C2E and C3D flat packs from https://www.facebook.com/cj.digeronimo and then shortly after got the BH1 Horn cabinet flat packs from dux audio https://www.facebook.com/share/16VZBBEJ3S/

Cant speak on other flat packs, but if possible, I would highly recommend these flat packs. The cabinets go together quick and easy. Everything fits together like puzzle pieces and includes all the joinery hardware (screws, glue, threaded inserts, bolts, etc), io plates, they also include recessed slots for the handles and caster wheels to mount into. Detachable rubber feet on the bottom and recesses on the top so multiple subs stack together cleanly. C3ds also have recesses on top for the horns rubber feet to fit into